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Naples &
the Amalfi Coast
day day BY
™
1st Edition
by Nicky Swallow
Index 178
Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate,
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A Note from the Editorial Director
Organizing your time. That’s what this guide is all about.
Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then
expect you to fit the pieces together. The Day by Day guides are
different. These guides tell you the best of everything, and then
they show you how to see it in the smartest, most time-efficient
way. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by
time, neighborhood, or special interest. And each tour comes with
a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.
The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one
complete guide for all your travel needs. The best hotels and res-
taurants for every budget, the greatest shopping values, the wild-
est nightlife—it’s all here.
Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors person-
ally visit each place they write about. They’re an independent lot
who say what they think and would never include places they
wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. They’re also open to
suggestions from readers. If you’d like to contact them, please
send your comments our way at feedback@frommers.com, and
we’ll pass them on.
Warm regards,
Acknowledgments
My thanks to Donald Strachan and his background knowledge of Italy for
being such a helpful and encouraging editor. Luca Moggi not only took the
photos for this guide but drove me all over Campania, sharing meals and
enthusiasm along the way. We met some wonderful people while we were
traveling and they all, in their own ways, have contributed to the book. We
can’t wait to go back.
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—
and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or
call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, edi-
tors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of read-
ers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we
encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings.
A Note on Prices
In the “Take a Break” and “Best Bets” sections of this book, we have used a
system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the
price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree at a restaurant.
Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs:
Frommer’s Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Day by Day, 1st Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
15 Favorite
Moments
2
15 Favorite Moments
15 Favorite Moments
Liternum Qualiano Avellino Nola Volturara
A16 E842
Licola Irpina
Serino
Ottaviano
Mare NAPLES Moschiano
Pozzuoli
Cuma Montella
7 A30 Sarno Solofra
A3 M. Mai
Bacoli Herculaneum E45 Pompeii
Isola Nocera
d'Ischia Inferiore Montecorvino
Procida Pompei Rovella
10 13 Ischia Castellammare t ari
di Stabia t i L a t Salerno
Golfo di Napoli on 14 Cetara
Ponza (Gulf of Naples) Sorrento M
9 Amalfi 8
Praiano oa st Battipaglia
Mare Tirreno Anacapri Pta. Campanella lfi C
12 Ama SS18
The Golfo di Salerno
Palermo, Isola di Capri
(Gulf of Salerno)
Cagliari Capri 15 11
Via
Museo C.
ArcheologicoCavour M Ro
ss
Via S. Nazionale
Porta Via aro
Ro C li Piazza San
sa 3 M Museo S. Gennaro a r bo
n Francesco
Piazza Museo a ra Piazza
Galleria Principe lli Duomo Capuana
isane
Via Pessina
Via
V ia di Napoli Via P Castel Po
ali Capuano eri
Via
Cor u n o
rera Via Ruvo Trib
Piazza San Via Piazza
Duo
Gaetano Garibaldi
Dante Porta 2
mo
I
M
Alba 4 rto
Piazza Piazza San CENTRO be
1 Um
Dante Domenico Musei S T O R I C O rso
ldeo
ce Maggiore Scienze Co
.C ro
Via B Piazza
Via To
Naturali Information
Nicola
Amore Piazza
Post Office
S. Chiara Università
oI Mercato
Piazza di Napoli bert M Metro
Carità Um
Posta rs o
Centrale Co 1 Da Michele
Bovio
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tis
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QUARTIERI
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15 Favorite Moments
his guide covers one of the most colorful, vibrant, and
interesting areas of Italy, home to world-class museums and
archeological sites, extraordinary scenery, superb restaurants, and
enough hidden gems to keep an agoraphobic happy for days. It was
a tough job to single out just 15 highlights, but my favorite moments
range from a genuinely awe-inspiring first visit to Naples’ Archaeo-
logical Museum to a memorable al fresco seafood meal.
1 Tucking into your first pizza at bronze athletes with their haunting
Da Michele in Naples makes you eyes in Rooms 114–117. See p 28.
realize what pizza is all about. The 4 Taking respite from the city
Neapolitans make the best in the
chaos in San Gregorio’s Cloister
world; crusts are light and puffy and
soothes the soul; it’s hard to believe
toppings are made with San Maz-
that such a peaceful spot can exist
zaro tomatoes and real mozzarella.
among the madness of the Spacca-
Da Michele may not go in for frills,
napoli. See p 48, 8.
but the pizza is fab. See p 78.
5 Waiting for the curtain to go
2 Walking up Via San Gregorio
up at Teatro San Carlo, one of Ita-
Armeno around Christmas can’t fail
ly’s premier opera houses. There’s
to put you in the holiday mood.
nothing more exciting for opera lov-
From early December, this Naples
ers than the moment when the
street is chock-a-block with twinkling
lights go down; performances here
shops and stalls selling artisan-made
will not disappoint. See p 67.
Christmas crib figurines. See p 20.
6 Catching a ferry to the islands.
3 Visiting the Archaeological
Naples is an immensely rewarding
Museum in Naples for the first time
and exciting city, but it is undeniably
is an experience not quickly forgot-
crazy. After a few days wandering
ten. The collections of Roman sculp-
its traffic-clogged, noisy streets,
ture and the ancient bronzes are
jump on a ferry for a taste of sleepy
unique; just look at those two
island life. See p 144–149 (Capri),
4
ITA
L a g n i Capua Vetere Maddaloni Cervinara SS88
Rome
LY
Castel Regi E842
Volturno Villa SS7 Casal di A1 Cancello M. di Avella
Principe Pratola Paternopoli Sardinia Naples
Literno E45 Cicciano Avella Serra
Golfo di Gaeta Aversa Caivano A30
(Gulf of Gaeta) Baiano Parolise Sicily
Liternum Afragola Pomigliano
Lake Patria SP1 Qualiano Nola Volturara Nusco
Avellino Irpina
Marina di Mugnano A16 E842 Moschiano SS7
Lago di Patria Monteforte Lioni Teora
Marano Irpino Bagnoli
S. Anastasia Ottaviano Serino
Licola Mare NAPLES Pizzo di Alvano Irpino
Vesuvius Montella
Cuma SS88 Solofra L . di Laceno
Pozzuoli VESUVIUS A30
Sarno
NATIONAL
Bocca
Capri T he SS18 Altavilla
Pta. Campanella Golfo di Salerno PARK OF THE
Silentina
Pic
0 9 mi Anacapri CILENTO
co
Capri l a (Gulf of Salerno)
0 10 km Paler mo, Castelcivita
Strategies for Seeing the Region
Cagliari Paestum
7
Rule #1: Don’t push yourself in mind that the roads around the
too hard Sorrentine Peninsula and along the
Remember that you’re on holiday Amalfi Coast are narrow and, in the
and to go home a burnt-out wreck summer, clogged with traffic, so
would defeat the object of the exer- progress may be slow. The distances
cise. Naples is an invigorating but on Ischia and Procida are tiny, but
tiring city that’s big, noisy, chaotic, again, the roads are often busy in
and (in the summer) hot. So pick high season. On Capri, you have to
and choose what interests you most rely on your feet to get around, and
from Chapter 2, the ‘Best of Naples’; so allow plenty of time.
don’t try and fit too much into one
day and leave plenty of time for Rule #3: Consider your
breaks. The out-of-town tours are method of transport carefully
less stressful in that they involve Traveling by road in these parts can
smaller, quieter places, but these be slow going. If you’re planning to
too get very crowded in the sum- stick to the towns, consider the
mer and traffic can be a nightmare. train, boat, or a combination of the
In short, don’t take on too much. two. What could be more romantic
than arriving in Positano at sunset
Rule #2: Distances are short, and alighting on the beach? And
but roads are slow what could be more infuriating than
Apart from Paestum, which is around sitting at a virtual standstill several
100km (62 miles) south of Naples, all kilometers outside the town while
the places featured in this guide are you wait for two huge tour buses to
quite close together. However, bear squeeze past each other?
8
Strategies for Seeing the Region
12 M S. Gennaro ra
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11 Duomo
0 1000 ft
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0 300 m 13 Intra Moenia
Past kings of Naples stand in niches set into the façade of the Palazzo Reale.
12
Savoia
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17
CAPODIMONTE Piazza
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Salita Muradois
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18
Y
The Best of Naples
our second day in Naples starts on a hill with one of the
best views in the city and a visit to an ex-monastery complex
turned museum. Then it’s back to the center with a lively market and
another dip into the centro storico to catch everything you couldn’t
fit in yesterday. Finish up at the Museo di Capodimonte. START: Catch
the Funiculare Centrale to PIazzetta Fuga.
Monks are buried in the great cloister at the Certosa di San Martino.
19
saint) was martyred by being land. Above the port to the left is
thrown to the lions. Fast-forward a the original Roman settlement of
millennium or two and Sophia Loren Rione Terra where 18th-century
was born in a Pozzuoli backstreet in palazzi were constructed over a
1934. Just above the port is the site warren of ancient roads, shops, and
of the Roman macellum (fish and houses. @ 11⁄2 hr. Campi Flegrei
meat market), lying below street Tourist office: Largo Matteotti 1/A,
level and known as the Tempio di Pozzuoli. y 081/5266639. www.
Serapide. The site, with its jutting infocampifleigrei.it.
columns, is half submerged in water
thanks to a strange geological phe-
4 ★★ = Anfiteatro Flavio.
Pozzuoli’s most spectacular sight is
nomenon common in these parts
the c. A.D. 70–79 Anfiteatro Flavio,
known as bradyseism, effectively a
which, with its capacity of 40,000
rising and sinking of the level of the
Statues from the complex were sal- Cuma lies about 4 km (21⁄2 miles)
vaged, however, and some are here north of Baia; drive north on the
including a headless Odysseus and SP45 following the signs for Cuma.
two statues of a young Dionysus.
8 ★★ = Parco Archeologico
Before you leave, climb to the top of
di Cuma. The Greeks settled on the
the tower for the full impact
natural acropolis of Cumae in the 8th
of the panorama. @ 45 min. Via
century B.C. The Romans expanded it,
Castello 45, Baia. y 081/5233797.
and built a long tunnel to connect to
Admission 4, free under-18s & over-
the nearby Lago di Averno, where
65s. Tues–Sun 9am–1 hr. before
they made an inland harbor. The
sunset.
place is surrounded by myth and
mystery, being the home of the
First
6
Floor
5
3 4
2 8
1
12
14
Second
Floor
11
13
10
9
Mezzanine
Floor
Museo Archeologico
aples’ celebrated Archaeological Museum is home to the
greatest collection of ancient art and artifacts in the world. A
significant part of this was recovered from the sites at Pompeii and
Herculaneum (both buried by Mt. Vesuvius in A.D. 79, see p 108 and
p 114), while much of the rest is made up of the Farnese family’s
haul of Greek and Roman sculpture and other objects. START: Metro
to Museo. Trip length: two hours minimum.
Roman statuary.
30
Museum Layout
The museum is laid out over four levels, in a vast 17th-century
building that was once the seat of Naples University. To see it all in
depth, set aside the better part of a day. If time is short, allow two
hours and concentrate on the most important sections: the Farnese
sculpture collection (inherited by Charles of Bourbon from his
mother Elisabetta Farnese), the mosaics, the Gabinetto Segreto, and
the collections of wall paintings and bronzes. If you have kids in tow,
they will enjoy the Egyptian section in the basement, with its mum-
mies, sarcophagi, and jewelry. Beware, however, that rooms and
even whole sections are inclined to close without notice, due to
restoration work or shortage of staff. If you visit on Sundays or pub-
lic holidays, you stand the best chance of finding everything open.
31
Museo Archeologico
The powerful Farnese Bull.
Certainly, some of the images on dis- and the Vesuvian villas. The works
play in the paintings, mosaics, and offer an overview of the so-called
sculptures are remarkably graphic, Four Styles of Roman Painting (dating
nowhere more so than the statue of from around the 2nd century B.C. to
Pan fornicating with a goat. the late 1st/early 2nd century A.D.)
accompanied by clear explanation
! Gran Salone della Meridi-
panels, also in English.
ana. The collections on the third
floor are in rooms off this vast, fres- $ ★ The Glass & Jewelry Col-
coed hall, named after the zodiacal lection (Rooms 85–89). In pride
solar meridian that runs diagonally of place in the center of Room 85
across the floor. stands the 1st century A.D. Blue
Vase from Pompeii, an exquisite
@ ★★★ Villa dei Papiri (Rooms
treasure unearthed in Pompeii.
114–117). These rooms are dedi-
Other cases contain examples of
cated to finds from the Villa dei Papiri
ancient decorative arts: glass, jew-
in Herculaneum, most significantly
elry, silverware, and small bronzes.
the bronzes. Look out for the two
lean Athletes poised for flight, the
famous Drunken Satyr, lolling in a Practical Matters
booze-induced stupor, the five life-
The Museo Archeologico is at
sized female bronzes known as the
Piazza Museo Nazionale 19 (y 081/
Dancers, and the celebrated bust of
4422111). Admission is 6.50
Seneca, the Roman philosopher,
adults, 3.25 EU citizens 18 to
statesman. and dramatist.
25 yrs, free for EU citizens under
# ★★★ Wall Paintings (Rooms 18 or over 65. It’s open Wednesday
66–78). Off the far left-hand side of to Monday from 9am to 8pm (last
the Sala Meridiana lies the museum’s admission 7pm); closed New Year’s
unparalleled collection of wall paint- Day, 1 May, and Christmas Day.
ings, found in Pompeii, Herculaneum,
32
The Best of Naples
Naples’ Best Churches
Savoia
0 1000 ft CAPODIMONTE Orto
li Botanico
Piazza co
0 300 m
Sanita M ira
Corso A. di
Via ria
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Centrale Piazza C ia
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Bovio
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Piazza Trieste Maschio Angioino Napoli
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Via Chia Piazza Reale cto
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Piazza d. del Plebiscito
1 San Giovanni a Carbonara
Via
Martiri
2 Santa Maria Donnaregina Vecchia
Ac
S A N TA
Via
ton
LU C I A 3 Duomo
a
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ro
Via S. L
Queen Mary of Hungary’s tomb in the church of Santa Maria Donnaregina Vecchia.
Gesù Nuovo.
37
Savoia
4 Pinacoteca Girolamini
CAPODIMONTE
5 MADRe
6
Corso A. di
MADRe Café
Salita Muradois
Osservatorio
Sali
7 Certosa di San Martino Astronomico
ta
8 Museo di Capodimonte
Capo imonte
Orto
d
li Botanico
Piazza co
M ira
Sanita
M AT E R D E I Via ria
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Vi
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QUARTIERI
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0 1000 ft
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39
1 ★★ La Sfogliatella Mary.
There’s no time for more than a
quick, stand-up breakfast, so head
for Mary’s little street stall in the
Spaccanapoli for a spectacular rum
babà or a delicious ricotta-filled
sfogliatella. Via Benedetto Croce 46.
No phone. $.
Museo di Capodimonte.
41
First
Floor
4
10 9 7 6 5 3
8 2
1
Second 11
Floor
19
16 15 14 12
13
17
18
Third
Floor
Museo di Capodimonte
his imposing red and gray building contains one of Italy’s
most important art museums, although it was originally Carlo
III’s hunting lodge, built in 1738. An inheritance from Carlo’s mother,
Elisabetta Farnese, together with the Borghese collection, makes up
the core of what we see today. Paintings hang according to areas of
origin and in chronological order. START: Bus M4, M5 or 178 to the
Museum. Trip length: three hours.
! ★★ Royal Apartments
The Best of Naples
of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese in
whose private rooms the painting (Rooms 31–60). The sumptuous
hung. El Greco’s El Soplon is based Royal Apartments include a Pom-
on a painting by the Ancient Greek peian salon, the state ballroom
artist Antiphilos and shows a won- done out in gold, and Queen Ame-
derful play of light in the boy’s illu- lia’s boudoir, entirely lined with
minated face. Capodimonte porcelain panels.
7 ★★★ Room 12. Works from @ ★★★ Room 65. Here you’ll find
Emilia Romagna include a favorite of 13th–19th-century works originating
mine, Parmigianino’s portrait of the in Naples, including works by all the
famous courtesan Anthea (1530– Neapolitan greats: Francesco Soli-
35), as well as Correggio’s Mystic mena, Massimo Stanzione, Giuseppe
Marriage of St. Catherine (c. 1520). Ribera, and Luca Giordano. A high-
8 ★ Rooms 13–14. Some of the light is Simone Martini’s golden 1317
St. Ludovico of Toulouse from the
Farnese’s dazzling collection of
church of San Lorenzo Maggiore that
‘curios’ are housed here: small
now hangs in its own darkened
bronzes, majolica-ware, ivories,
room. The painting was commis-
jewelry, coins, and glass.
sioned by Robert d’Anjou.
9 ★ Room 17. Flemish painter
Pieter Breughel makes a surprise
# ★ Room 67. Colantonio’s Saint
Jerome in his Study (1445), com-
appearance with several works,
plete with soft-eyed lion, also comes
including the disturbing Parable of
from San Lorenzo and was part of a
the Blind Men (1568).
two-tiered altarpiece.
0 ★ Room 19. This representa-
tion of the Mystic Marriage of
$ ★ Room 74. Giorgio Vasari’s
Presentation in the Temple was
St. Catherine was painted by Anni-
painted for the church of Monteo-
bale Carracci in c. 1585.
liveto in Naples.
Museo di Capodimonte
Annunciation (c. 1557) comes from
San Domenico Maggiore. Look at
that incredible shaft of light as the
clouds open.
^ ★★★ Room 78. Caravaggio’s
dramatic Flagellation (1609–10)
also hung in San Domenico
Maggiore. This painting, with its
extraordinary chiaroscuro effects,
influenced generations of Neapoli-
tan painters.
& ★★ Room 87. Artemesia Genti-
leschi’s gory, vengeful Judith Behead- Caravaggio’s Flagellation.
ing Holofernes (c. 1618) shows the
Jewish heroine killing the Assyrian famous work here is Andy Warhol’s
general Holofernes in his sleep. erupting Vesuvius (1985).
* ★ Room 91. Ribera’s pot-
bellied Drunken Silenus (1626) Practical Matters
shows Bacchus in full party mode
surrounded by nymphs and satyrs. The Museo di Capodimonte is at Via
Miano 2 (y 081/7499111). Admis-
( ★ Top Floor Galleries. The sion is 7.50 adults, 6.50 after
top floor houses the section dedi- 2pm; 3.50 for E.U. citizens 18 to
cated to 19th-century paintings, 25 yrs, free for E.U. citizens under
contemporary art (including Sol 18 and over 65. It’s open Thursday
LeWitt’s 2002 White Bands in a to Tuesday 8:30am to 7:30pm (last
Black Room), photography, and entry 6:30pm). Bus M4, M5, 178.
temporary exhibitions. The most
Savoia
0 300 m
Salita Muradois
Vi Osservatorio
Sali
i
Corso A. di
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in Astronomico
ta
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bri arb
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Nazionale M Museo S. Gennaro
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Via Chia Piazza
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del Plebiscito Via 4 San Giovanni a Carbonara
Piazza dei
5 Santa Maria Donnaregina Vecchia
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S A N TA
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47
Hidden Naples
ost visitors to Naples stick to the well-worn itineraries
of must-sees, and leave without realizing that there’s a lot
more to the city than a (world-famous) archaeological museum and
the Duomo. These are some of my favorite low-key places, guaran-
teed to provide an escape from the crowds. START: Bus 24, 110, R4 to
the Church of the Madonna del Buon Consiglio.
7 ★★ Battistero di San
The Best of Naples
15th-century frescoes vividly illus-
trate the lives of hermits; the panels Giovanni in Fonte. Accessed
on the right of the door are particu- through the Duomo, the Baptistery
larly charming. See p 33, 1. of San Giovanni in Fonte, dating from
5 ★★ Santa Maria Donnare- the 4th to 5th century, is the oldest
building of its kind in the Western
gina Vecchia. For years, this
world and has a dazzling mosaic in
church was closed to visitors unless
its dome. @ 10 min. For the Duomo,
you had an appointment; now it’s
see p 14, !. Archaeological area
part of the MADRe contemporary
and Baptistery: Admission 3. Mon–
art museum, and is open to all. Visi-
Sat 9am–noon, 4:30–6:30pm.
tors rarely bother with a stop here,
but I urge you not to miss it for Tino 8 ★★★ Chiostro di San Gre-
da Camaino’s tomb of Queen Mary gorio Armeno. My favorite clois-
of Hungary and the 14th-century ter in Naples is a peaceful haven in
frescoes by Pietro Cavallino. See the heart of the crazy centro storico.
p 33, 2. The entrance is through an iron gate
and at the top of a long staircase; as
you pass through the carved wood
6 ★★ Il Pizzaiolo del Presi- doors, notice the old bronze revolv-
dente. Pizza makes a good, quick
ing drums on either side through
lunch break and Il Presidente makes
which supplies were passed to the
one of the best; Bill Clinton (one-
nuns. The cloister, enclosed by the
time customer) thought so too. Eat
weathered old ochre walls of the con-
in or take out, and go for a simple
vent and planted with orange trees,
pizza Margherita. Via dei Tribunale
is a sunny space filled with birdsong.
120. y 081/210903. $.
@ 15 min. Via Maffei 1. y 081/
The peaceful cloister of San Gregorio Armeno.
49
Hidden Naples
5520186. Voluntary donation. Mon–
Fri 9:30am–noon, Sat & Sun 9:30am–
1pm. Metro Dante or Montesanto.
9 ★ Quartieri Spagnoli. It’s a
shame that this neighborhood of
tight-knit streets has such an exag-
gerated reputation as a hotbed of
crime, because it’s a slice of true
Naples, warts and all. The cramped
area was built to house occupying
Spanish troops in the 16th century
and subsequently became one of
the city’s most poverty stricken
districts. It still suffers from many
problems today, but for the tourist,
it’s a colorful area of tiny shops,
neighborhood bars and osterie,
shabby streets lined with laundry
hanging out to dry, and modest,
crowded dwellings. Do not, how-
ever, venture into this area after
dark and in the dead period during
the afternoon siesta; and do keep Space is tight in the Quartieri Spagnoli.
bags and cameras close. @ 30 min.
To the west of Via Toldeo, between
Via Toledo 185. y 800/088622.
Piazza Trieste e Trento and Piazza
www.palazzozevallos.com. Admis-
Carità. Metro Dante or Montesanto.
sion 3. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. Metro
0 Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos Dante or funicolare (funicular) to
Stigliano. The magnificent head- Montesanto.
quarters of the Banca Intesa hides
one masterpiece among its small col-
lection of paintings. Take the eleva-
! ★ La Caffettiera. A 10-minute
walk along Via Chiaia brings you to
tor to the second floor to see lovely Piazza dei Martiri and this fine
Caravaggio’s 1610 Martyrdom of old bar whose elegant terrace makes
Sant’Ursula, which hangs in its own an ideal spot for a cocktail. Piazza dei
room. It was graceing the bank man- Martiri 30. y 081/7644243. $–$$.
ager’s office until 2007. @ 15 min.
Information
Post Office
M Metro M AT E R D E I
Piazza Materdei M
De Leva
ARENELLA terdei
Via M ia Ma
. R. I
Piazza mbr V
ia n
Musil i
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lita oN
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Medaglie Salvator
d'Oro os a
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Piazza M
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Medaglie Piazza
Po
d'Oro Mazzini
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Piazza
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Piazza
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7 Vi
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M F .A cura
ng Via S
Vanvitelli eli
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VOMERO Castel
Via Cimarosa Sant’Elmo
F F
Certosa di
F F
S. Martino
51
Underground Naples
CAPODIMONTE
Savoia
9 Corso A. di
Osservatorio
Salita Muradois
Astronomico
Sali
ta
Capo imonte
d
8 o li
rac
Via della Sanità Piazza Mi
Sanità Via
ria
Fo
iracoli
a
Via della Stel
l
Piazza Vi
a
Via S. T
Pagano
Cavour Via
Museo M Ca
eresa d
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Nazionale na
ra
Porta S.
. Scalzi
M Museo Gennaro
Piazza Museo
Galleria Principe i
ll
di Napoli isane Duomo
Via P 1
ali
ribun
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Via Ruvo
Piazza San Via T
3 Gaetano
Via
Via P
2
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Dante Porta
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M
6 Alba
Piazza CENTRO
Dante Piazza San STORICO
Domenico
Maggiore Musei Scienze
4 ce
. Cro Naturali
Via B Piazza
ldeo
Nicola
5 Amore
Via To
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Piazza di Napoli oI
Piazza
D'Acquisto
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Carità Um
Posta rso arina
Co M
Centrale ova
Piazza Piazza Nu
Matteotti Bovio Via
52
T
The Best of Naples
here’s a lot more to Naples than meets the eye; quite liter-
ally. Evidence of its multilayered history and past inhabitants is
buried under modern-day street level. The following itinerary pro-
vides real insight into the city’s distant (and no so distant) past.
START: Metro Cavour to the Duomo.
Underground Naples
Napoli Sotteranea.
Underground Naples
Cimitero delle Fontanelle
Consisting of a huge cavern, this ex-quarry was first used as a
burial site in the 17th century and played a significant role in the
1835 cholera epidemic, when all Naples’ dead were moved here
from the city’s other cemeteries. This process was repeated in the
1974 outbreak and some 40,000 skulls and bones were eventually
piled high in the enormous space. That’s what you see today; piles
and piles of bones. It’s an awe-inspiring sight. Call the tourist office
(y 081/402394) about visiting.
Savoia
6 Antiche Delizie Sa
lita
Salita Muradois
7 Villa Comunale Di
Corso A. di
M
Sali
8 Aquarium au
ro
ta
9 Certosa di San Martino
Capodimonte
oli
Piazza rac
M AT E R D E I Sanità a Mi
V i
Via della Calce
A R E N E L L A Piazza
M Materdei
De Leva Piazza ria
Via M Via Materdei Museo Pagano Fo
Piazza . R. Archeologico i a
Im V
Musil br Nazionale Cavour M
Medaglie ian a Porta S.
Salvator i M Museo
os
Rosa Via S. Ro
M
Piazza M sa Via Duomo
Via
Medaglie Piazza
Po
Via D
d'Oro Leonardo Via Ruvo
n
Piazza San
tec
Fanzago Montesano M 3
vo
Via Bernini
M
Piazza 4 o
F
Piazza 6 Dante roce C E N T R O
F
Montesanto B . C
VOMERO Via STORICO oI
Vi ura rt
M F aT V ia Sc S. Chiara be
Um
ldeo
.A Piazza
Vanvitelli Castel nge Carità Posta rso
Co
Via To
F F Sant’Elmo lin
i Centrale Piazza
F 9 Piazza Bovio bo
tis
F
QUARTIERI 5 Matteotti om
pre
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CHIAIA
.C
De
F S PA G N O L I
F
aC
Via
1 Galleria
Vi
Bacino
F Umberto I Piazza
M F Municipio del Piliero
2
Piazza V. d. Mill Castel Nuovo Stazione
Amedeo e
Palazzo Marittima
Villa Via Chiaia Reale cton
Pignatelli Piazza d. Piazza del Via A Molo
Martiri Plebiscito Beverello
Rivie
7 ra di
Chiaia
Villa 8 S A N TA
cia
ro
Comunale Piazza L U C I A
u
Sau
Via S. L
Vittoria
Information
N.
Via
2 ★★ Sightseeing Buses.
Naples’ hop-on hop-off open-topped
tourist buses cover the whole city
infour interchangeable routes, which
extend as far as Capodimonte, Capo
Posillipo, and all the way out to
Vesuvius. It’s a fun way to move
around, and views from the upper
deck are splendid. Many of the
places suggested on this tour are
Christmas cribs.
accessible from the tour bus stops.
@ 2 hr. minimum. Info and terminal jam-packed. @ 40 min. Via San Gre-
Largo Castello/Piazza Municipio.
gorio Armeni. Metro Dante.
y 081/5517279. www.napoli.city-
sightseeing.it. Tickets 22 adults, 4 ★ Ospedale delle Bambole.
11 6–15 yrs, 66 family ticket Even if you don’t have a sick doll to
(2 adults and 2 under-18s). Hours be treated, it’s fun to go along and
vary between the routes, but buses have a look at this famous Doll’s
leave roughly 10am–5pm daily. Hospital, which is stuffed to over-
flowing with every kind of doll imag-
3 ★★★ Christmas Cribs. Most
inable (many of them really old)
Neapolitan families set up a Christ-
and all sorts of doll body parts.
mas crib at home. These can be
huge, involving dozens (even hun- @30 min. Via S. Biagio dei Librai 81.
dreds) of figures, some with moving
y 081/203067. www.ospedaledelle
bambole.it. Free admission. Mon–
parts, set in elaborate rural land-
Sat 9am–1pm. Metro Dante.
scapes complete with lighting
effects. Neapolitan craftspeople 5 ★ = Disney Store. Kids can
have been making these presepi for only take so much art and culture,
centuries and many of the work- pizza, and gelato, but help is on
shops are located in and around hand at the Naples branch of the
Via San Gregorio Armeni. In the Disney Store, which is stocked with
run up to Christmas, the street is all the usual Disney paraphernalia.
58
The Best of Naples
To the Beach
Thanks to the poor water quality in the sea immediately
surrounding Naples, you have to head out toward Posillipo for
reasonably clean swimming, although the beaches here are small
and shingly. One of the best is at Ponticello a Marechiaro where
you can rent deck chairs and umbrellas in season. Take the C23 bus
from Posillipo, get off in the little piazzetta where all the restaurants
are, and take the path round to the right down to the sea. For
proper, sandy beaches, go to the island of Procida for the day (see
p 158); the boat ride is fun too.
Doll’s hospital.
59
Via
Via A
Museum
Castel
Via G
nelli
5
3
del D
M Metro Pisa Duomo Capuano
Via
Via d
erolo
uom
e
o
ali
Via d
V
Via C. di Ruvo
mini
ribun
lla P
Via T
ace
ella Z
11
ia Atr
10
Via d
i
e
12
ite
Decumani
oledo
13 S. Lorenzo
1 Piazza Gesù
l Sole
Via T
Piazza finish 14 2 Santa Chiara
V. Bellini here
Dante 3 Via Benedetto Croce
Via
M Porta 15 S. Gregorio 4 Scaturchio
Alba Armeno
Via N
5 Piazza San Domenico
ilo
del D
Piazza
Dante 9 6 San Domenico Maggiore
Via San S
6
8 uom
o
7 Sant’Angelo a Nilo
Gesù 5 Museo 8 Largo Corpo di Napoli
Nuovo 4 7 dei Grande
ebastian
Archivio 9 Via S. Biagio dei Librai
o
3
start 10 Via dei Tribunali
oledo
Musei
Vi
here Scienze
CENTRO
aS
11 Pizzeria Di Matteo
Via M
a
2
n
Naturali
Via T
S T O R I C O Piazza
ce o
G
. Cro 1 llin 12 Piazza San Gaetano
Via
er
Via B arce Nicola
ezzoc
S. M
S
on
Vico Amore 13 Santa Maria delle Anime del
S. Chiara
ant
I
imo
0 500 ft rto Purgatorio ad Arco
e
annon
Università b
a Ch
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Um 14 Via dei Tribunali, western section
0 150 m di Napoli
iara
rso 15 San Pietro a Maiella
Co
61
Decumani
his walk leads around the streets of the centro storico,
which are still laid out on their Greco-Roman grid plan. Many of
the city’s key sights lie within this grid of ancient streets. Three main
roads—the decumani—run east to west, intersected by narrower,
north-south cardines. The principal street is the decumanus infe-
rior, known as the Spaccanapoli. Via dei Tribunali (the decumanus
maior) runs parallel to the north. START: Metro Dante to Piazza Gesù.
Walk length: two hours.
Ever-colorful Spaccanapoli.
Decumani
onto Piazza Girolamini with its vast, Santa Maria del Purgatorio ad Arco,
white-fronted 17th-century church. its railings topped by bronze skulls
(see p 20, 7).
bo
Villa La CHIAIA QUARTIERI
F
ldeo
Floridiana F S PAG N O L I 2 Villa Pignatelli
Calata Porta
C olo
.
Corso V. Emanuele 3 di Massa
Via Caracciolo
Via To
a
F Galleria Piazza
Vi
Bacino 4 Castel dell’Ovo
Umberto I Municipio del Piliero
M F 5 Borgo Marinari
Via G
.Crisoi Piazza Castel 6
Via F Nuovo Barcadero
. Nic
Amedeo Via dei M
ille 13 Stazione
Marittima 7 Via Santa Lucia
oter
a 12 11
a
Chiai finish 8 Piazza del Plebiscito
2 Via 10 here n San Francesco di Paola
to Molo 9
Piazza d. 9 8 Ac
Via Beverello 10 Palazzo Reale
Martiri
start Rivie
ra di 11 Piazza Trieste e Trento
here
V
1 Villa Chiaia 12 Gran Caffé Gambrinus
Comunale
ia D
SANTA
.
Piazza 13 Teatro San Carlo
Via F. C LUCIA
Mo
araccio
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lli
3
uro
7
N . Sa
Via
Via Pa
Parrtte
ennope Information
Museum
6
M Metro
Golfo di Napoli 4
0 1500 ft
5
0 500 m
The Waterfront & Royal Naples
65
Serre
6
Califano 7
4 5
3
Tenore
Biologia Palazzo
2 Vegetale Fuga
Via M.
1
Via Foria Via Foria
Piazza
Carlo III
Orto Botanico
About the Garden
With an area of around 30 acres (12 hectares) and situated in
the chaotic Sanità neighborhood, this is one of the largest gardens of
its kind in Italy. Its beautifully tended paths, smooth green lawns, and
carefully laid out plant displays come as a delightful surprise in the
context of smog-choked Via Foria. Today the garden is part of the
university’s Department of Natural Science and contains species from
all over the world, laid out in reconstructions of various habitats. Every-
thing is clearly labeled (in Italian, but the Latin names help) and cute
little ceramic plaques guide you around the contrasting areas.
from mignon, furry little plants, to Albergo dei Poveri, once a wretched
towering trunks with prickles that poorhouse for the city’s homeless
would do serious harm. and destitute, which was commis-
sioned by Carlo III and built between
4 ★ Macchia Mediterranea.
1751 and 1829. With a total area of
The central area is planted with that
some 33,455 sq. m (360,000 sq.
particular combination of evergreen
feet) and now a UNESCO World Heri-
species typical of sunny, Mediterra-
tage Site, it is undergoing a major
nean coastal areas known as mac-
restoration.
chia mediterranea, an aromatic
combination of low-growing shrubs Palm trees at the Orto Botanico.
that includes cork oak, ilex, bay,
myrtle, and rosemary.
5 ★★★ Filiceto. Ferns thrive in
a damp, shady habitat and this
delightful, raised corner of the gar-
den, protected from the sun by
evergreen trees, recreates just that.
A system of artificial streams and
ponds guarantee a constant level
of humidity. Fabulous on a hot
summer day.
6 ★ Il Castello. Turn right along
the path that passes the citrus
groves and you come to this mid-
17th-century castle, home to a
rather charming little ‘Paleobotanic
and Ethnobotanic’ museum with
displays of fossilized plantlife and
artifacts fashioned from plants from
all over the world.
7 Albergo dei Poveri. The
huge edifice that looms over this
eastern part of the garden is the
70
The Best of Naples
Shopping Best Bets
Best for Neapolitan Traditional Best Custom-made Shirts
Music ★★★ Merolla & de l’Ero, Via
★ Tattoo Records, Piazzetta Calabritto 20 (p 73)
di Nilo 15 (p 72)
Best Ties
Best for Prints of Old Naples ★★★ Marinella, Riviera di Chiaia 287
★★ Bowinkel, Piazza dei Martiri 24 (p 73)
(p 72)
Best neighborhood for
Best Coffee Beans Designer Labels
★★ Bar Mexico, Piazza Dante 86 ★★★ Chiaia, (p 160)
(p 19)
Best Street Market
Best for Books in English ★★★ Mercato Pignasecca,
★★★ Feltrinelli, Piazza dei Piazzetta Montesanto (p 19)
Martiri 23 (p 72)
Best Handmade Leather
Best for a Neapolitan Coffee Bags & Accessories
Machine ★★★ Fratelli Tramontano,
★★ Spina, Via Pignasecca 62 (p 74) Via Chiaia 149e (p 75)
Via D
Piazza Dante
26
Capua Cashmere 5 F Montesanto ce
ldeo
14 9 18 uom
Via Bernini
o
. Cro 15
Casella 6 Via B
VOMERO 8 Vi CENTRO
COIN 7 7
Via To
F
aT cura 1 STORICO oI
anuele
De Paola Cameo 8 M
.A Via S S. Chiara er t
24 b
m
ng
Eder 9 Vanvitelli eli Piazza Um
Castel ni Carità
V. E
rso
Enoteca Dante 10 F F Sant’Elmo Posta Co
so
Feltrinelli 11 Centrale Piazza
Certosa di Piazza
Bovio
Cor
Fratelli Tramontano 12 F Matteotti
eo
F S. Martino 25
Frette 13
QUARTIERI etis
dina
Guy Odin 14
bo
CHIAIA S PA G N O L I epr
Via Told
m
F
D
Naples Shopping
Il Chiostro 15
lo
Via Me
Co
Via
La Bottega della Ceramica 16
C.
Marinella 17
Piazza F
Vi
Naples Shopping A to Z
Fashion & Accessories Campania wines; Falanghina, Greco
★★★ = Capua Cashmere CHI- di Tufo, Coda di Volpi, Lachrimae
AIA Clothing for men, women, and Cristi, and Aglianico. Piazza Dante
children in the softest cashmere; 18. y 081/5499689. AE, MC, V.
sweaters, jackets, hats, gloves, and Metro Dante. Map p 71.
scarves in a range of beautiful col-
★★★ Guy Odin TOLEDO Artisan
ors. Strictly Made in Italy. Via Bisig-
chocolate maker Guy Odin has been
nano 5. y 081/2481147. AE, DC,
in business since 1922, and this won-
MC, V. Metro Amedeo. Map p 71.
derfully old-fashioned shop is just
★★★ Marinella CHIAIA This one of several he operates in Naples.
Neapolitan institution sells custom- Choose from a solid chocolate Vesu-
made ties using the finest fabrics. vius, pralines with chili or rum and
The tiny shop was founded in 1914 cream, and chocolate mussels filled
and numbers the likes of Aristotle with almond cream. Via Toledo 214.
Onassis and Giovanni Agnelli among y 081/5513491. AE, DC, MC, V.
past clients. Riviera di Chiaia 287A. Metro Montesanto. Map p 71.
y 081/2451182. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus ★★ Moccia CHIAIA Ever-popular
C4, C28, E6. Map p 71.
Moccia sells delicious rum-infused
★★★ Merolla & de l’Ero CHIAIA babà, tiny tartlets filled with wild
The place to go to order custom- strawberries, profiteroles, sfogli-
made men’s (and women’s) shirts. atelle, and ricotta-filled cannoli. Eat
Around 10 people take three weeks in or take away. Via San Pasquale a
to make up any single shirt; you can Chiaia 21–22. y 081/411348. AE,
choose from dozens of fine cottons, MC, V. Metro Amedeo. Bus C4, C28.
collar styles, and buttons. Via Cal- Map p 71.
abritto 20. y 081/7643012. AE, DC,
MC, V. Bus C4, C28, E6. Map p 71. Homeware & Ceramics
★★★ Frette CHIAIA The famous
Food & Drink Italian bedlinen company sells
★★ Antiche Delizie TOLEDO
Just off the main Pignasecca drag, Port’Alba’s used book stalls.
this little gastronomia sells cheeses,
meats, olives, and other picnic food,
and also offers great dishes to go
such as lasagne. Via Pasquale Scura
14. y 081/5513088. No credit cards.
Metro Montesanto. Map p 71.
★ Eder CENTRO STORICO If you
can manage to squeeze past the
packets of multicolored pastas and
other goodies blocking the entrance
way to this little shop, you will find a
great source of foodie gifts. Via
Benedetto Croce 44. y 081/5517091.
No credit cards. Metro Montesanto.
Map p 71.
★★★ Enoteca Dante TOLEDO
The knowledgeable owner of this
wine shop will help you choose from
a great selection of well-priced
74
The Best of Naples
Christmas Cribs
Neapolitan artisans have been known for their manufacture of
Presepi or Nativity scenes for hundreds of years, but it was in the
18th century that the tradition reached its zenith. Artisans would
fashion extraordinarily lifelike figurines out of wood and terracotta
that were dressed by the finest tailors. They would then be placed
in the context of the nativity scene complete with animals, angels,
food, and drink. Today’s experts, mostly based around Via San
Gregorio Armeno, which turns into a big Christmas crib in early
December, keep the tradition alive and have added working parts.
Much of it is mass-produced these days, but if you’re interested in
buying quality not quantity, try Giuseppe and Marco Ferrigno,
Via San Gregorio Armeno 10 and 55 (y 081/5523148) and Can-
tone e Costabile, Via Benedetto Croce 38 (y 081/5591186).
exquisite sheets, towels, and bed- in bright, sunny colors. You’ll find
covers in linen and cotton at its plates and serving dishes, vases,
Naples branch. Prices are high; try tiles, and lamps. Via Carlo Poerio 41.
the sales (Jan/Feb and July/Aug) for y 081/7642626. AE, MC, V. Bus C4,
a bargain. Via dei Mille 2. y 081/ E6. Map p 71.
418728. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro
★★ Spina TOLEDO An old-
Amadeo. Map p 71.
fashioned kitchen and hardware
★ La Bottega della Ceramica shop in the Pignasecca market area,
CHIAIA This little shop is crammed Spina is famous for its coffee mak-
with colorful, traditional ceramics ers; come here for your quite porta-
ble Neapolitan version to take
Mouthwatering Antiche Delizie. home. Via Pignasecca 62. y 081/
5524818. No credit cards. Metro
Montesanto, Dante. Map p 71.
Jewelry
★★★ Arte in Oro CENTRO
STORICO Nothing has changed in
decades at this little shop, which sells
exquisite reproductions of period
cameos and Roman pieces plus
antique gold, silver, and coral jewelry.
Via Benedetto Croce 20. y 081/
5516980. No credit cards. Metro
Montesanto or Dante. Map p 71.
★ De Paola Cameo VOMERO
A traditional cameo is a very nice
keepsake of Naples, and this factory
(near Castel Sant’Elmo) makes a vast
range in various sizes and colors. Via
75
Naples Shopping A to Z
A Caccavello 67. y 081/5782910. AE, y 081/7640901. Open Mar–Sept.
D, MC, V. Funicular to Piazza Fuga, Via AE, DC, MC, V. Metro Amedeo. Map
Cimarosa or Kerbaker. Map p 71. p 71.
★★ Matermatuta CENTRO
STORICO This small shop show- Stationery
cases contemporary pieces made ★★ Penna & Carta CHIAIA This
by young, local artisans from shop sells fine quality stationery,
bronze, silver, and copper with beautiful fountain pens and pens in
semi-precious stones, natural hand-blown glass, art supplies, and
pearls, glass, and bone. Affordable all sorts of accessories for desk and
prices. Via Benedetto Croce 38. briefcase. Largo Vasto a Chiaia 86.
y 081/5424315. MC, V. Metro y 081/418724. AE, MC, V. Metro
Montesanto or Dante. Map p 71. Amedeo. Map p 71.
★ Scriptura CENTRO STORICO
Shoes & Leather The family of craftspeople that own
★★★ Fratelli Tramontano this shop make and sell leather-
CHIAIA This family business designs bound books, diaries, and albums,
and produces exquisite handmade as well as a selection of leather
leather articles from belts to suit- bags, briefcases, and accessories.
cases; past customers include Woody Via San Sebastiano 22. y 081/
Allen and Tom Cruise. They also 299226. AE, MC, V. Metro Monte-
design and make articles to order. santo or Dante. Map p 71.
Via Chiaia 149e. y 081/414758. AE,
DC, MC, V. Bus C4, E3, E6. Map p 71. Umbrellas
★ Pietro & Paolo Ferrara CHI- ★★ Talarico Mario TOLEDO
AIA The best place to buy those This artisan shop, founded in 1860,
simple, flat and achingly chic Capri is truly one of a kind: beautiful
sandals is obviously Capri, but this umbrellas are handmade on the
shop selling ‘Capri-style’ handmade premises in silk and wood. Vico Due
sandals, mules, and moccasins Porte a Toledo 4B. y 081/407723.
in a rainbow of colors is a good AE, DC, MC, V. Funicular Augusteo.
alternative. Via Bisignano 49. Map p 71.
Street Markets
Markets always offer a colorful taste of local life. La Pignasecca
(see p 19, 4), the biggest and best, is the place to see the Neapoli-
tans at their most theatrical; they flock here daily to buy anything
from great hunks of swordfish and bunches of sweet Vesuvius
tomatoes to fake Prada bags and cut-price perfumes. Daily Porta
Nolana market (near Piazza Garibaldi) is another lively place, but
the guys selling contraband DVDs and cigarettes threaten to out-
number the legitimate vendors. The morning market (Monday to
Saturday) in Via San Pasquale in Chiaia is a much more civilized
affair, selling fruit and vegetables plus clothes, bags, and shoes to
the smart local residents. For clothing bargains, try the daily morn-
ing Mercatino di Antignano in Piazza degli Artisti, Vomero.
76
The Best of Naples
Dining Best Bets
Best for Fish Best Friggitoria
★★★ Dora $$$ Via Ferdinando ★★★ Fiorenzano $ Via Ninni 1–3
Palasciano 30 (p 79) (p 19)
Via D
Quattro M Piazza Leonardo Montesano
Dante 15
Da Michele 4 M 4
Giornale Piazza Fanzago M 20
uom
F
Piazza CENTRO
o
Da Tonino 5 Quattro Piazza
F
Dante STORICO oI
Don Salvatore 6 Giornale Vi
a Montesanto er t
S. Chiara m b
Dora 7 Vanvitelli V O M E R O T. A cura oU Piazza
Via F. Cilea M F ng Via S Piazza 10
16 C ors Mercato
Europeo di Mattozzi 8
eli
Via Cimarosa Castel ni Carità
George’s at Parker’s 9 fano F F Sant’Elmo QUARTIERI Piazza
. Ste Piazza Bovio
Via S F S P A G N O L I
bo
ldeo
Il Garum 10 F S. Martino Matteotti 8 m
Villa La lo
o
Via A. Falco
La Bersagliera 11 ne Floridiana C H I A I A
.C
19
Naples Dining
Via To
F
T
La Cantina di Triunfo 12
aC
Via a
Vi
Stazione Corso sso Galleria Piazza
La Cantinella 13 Vitt. Emanuele 9 F Umberto I Municipio
F
La Mattonella 14 Piazza M
Via Schipa Amedeo 5 23 Castel Nuovo Stazione
La Stanza del Gusto 15 a Palazzo Marittima
La Taverna dell’Arte 16 Villa Piazza d. 14Via Chiai Reale cton
7 Pignatelli Martiri Piazza del Via A Molo
Marino 17 Beverello
Stazione di 12 Riviera di Chiaia 21
2 Plebiscito
Mimi alla Ferrovia 18 Mergellina i Piazza della Villa S A N T A
Osteria Toledo 19 sc Comunale LU C I A cia Information
ro
ram Repubblica Lu
A
au
. G ciolo
Palazzo Petrucci 20 Museum
Via arac 13
.S
C 17
Radici 21
N
Via S.
Via Terminal Aliscafi M Metro
Rosiello 22
Via
(Hydrofoil) 11
F Golfo di Napoli 0 2000 ft
San Ferdinando 23
24
Trattoria dell’Ovo 24 1 22 0 600 m
6 Castel d’Ovo
Dining Best Bets
77
78
The Best of Naples
Naples Dining A to Z
★★ Al Faretto MARECHIARO FISH of vegetables. Via della Sapienza 40.
& PIZZA Take a break from the city y 081/459078. Entrees 3–7. No
and head to this stylish waterside credit cards. Lunch Mon–Sat; closed
restaurant in the tiny fishing village 3 weeks in Aug. Metro Cavour. Map
of Marechiaro, a perfect spot for p 77.
lunch on a sunny day. Via Mare-
chiaro 127. y 081/5750407. Entrees
★★★ = Da Michele CORSO
UMBERTO/STATION PIZZA Take a
10–18, pizza 4.50–7. Lunch &
number and join the queue for what
dinner Tues–Sun. Bus C23 or taxi.
many believe to be the best pizza in
Map p 77.
town. Choice is limited to margher-
★★ Amici Miei ROYAL NAPLES ita or marinara, and the place is
ITALIAN Carnivores will enjoy this extremely Spartan, but this is a
excellent restaurant where there’s truly Neapolitan experience that
not a fish in sight. Tuck into the likes shouldn’t be missed. Via Sersale 1.
of curry-spiked risotto with goose y 081/5539204. Pizzas 4–5. No
breast and chargrilled steak comple- credit cards. Mon–Sat 10am–mid-
mented by fine wines. Via Monte di night. Metro Garibaldi. Map p 77.
Dio 78. y 081/7646063. Entrees
★★ Da Tonino CHIAIA TRADI-
7.50–16. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch
TIONAL A combination of home-
Tues–Sun, dinner Tues–Sat; closed
style cooking, such as lentil soup
July & Aug. Bus E3, E6. Map p 77.
and squid in tomato sauce, unbeat-
★ Cantina della Sapienza CEN- able prices, and simpatico owner
TRO STORICO TRADITIONAL This Tonino’s endless chatter means that
popular, rustic little eatery serves this simple little trattoria is always
good, home-cooked food such as packed. Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia
meat balls in tomato sauce and egg- 47. y 081/421533. Entrees 3–6.
plant parmesan, plus a great choice No credit cards. Lunch Mon–Sat,
Naples Dining A to Z
dinner Fri & Sat; closed Aug. Bus C4,
C26, C28. Map p 77.
★★ Don Salvatore MERGELLINA
FISH & PIZZA Although pizza and
meat dishes feature on the menu of
this elegant restaurant, I recom-
mend fish and seafood specialties
such as pasta with lobster and sea
bass with caper sauce. Via Mergel-
lina 5. y 081/681817. Entrees
14.50–20. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch &
dinner Thurs–Tues. Metro Mergel-
lina. Bus 140, R3. Map p 77.
★★★ Dora CHIAIA FISH Tiny
Dora’s has a cult following among
both locals and visitors, who cram in
for unpretentious (but expensive)
dishes based on the freshest fish.
Ihad a superb plate of spaghetti with
clams here. Via Ferdinando Palasci-
ano 30. y 081/680519. Entrees
15–40. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon– Try George’s for a special treat.
Sat. Bus 140, 152, C28. Map p 77.
Funicular Chiaia to Corso Vittorio
★★★ Europeo di Mattozzi Emanuele. Map p 77.
PORT TRADITIONAL & PIZZA
Alfonso Mattozzi’s comfortingly old- ★★ Il Garum CENTRO STORICO
fashioned trattoria is one of the CREATIVE TRADITIONAL A good
city’s best, and a personal favorite. place for a cheap, central lunch
Top-notch ingredients go into Nea- (there’s a 10 set menu), Il Garum
politan staples such as lentil and fri- offers a pretty terrace and a light,
arielli (a kind of bitter greens) soup creative take on the local cuisine. Try
and paccheri (large pasta tubes) with the rabbit with apples or ‘Neapolitan
mixed seafood. Via Campodisola sushi.’ Piazza Monteoliveto 2/a.
Marchese 4. y 081/5521323. y 081/5423228. Entrees 12–18.
Entrees 10–18. AE, MC, V. Lunch AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily.
Mon, Tues, lunch & dinner Wed–Sat. Metro Dante. Map p 77.
Bus 201, E1, E2, R4. Map p 77. ★ La Bersagliera BORGO MARIN-
★★★ George’s at Parker’s ARO FISH Lunch on the sunny ter-
VOMERO GOURMET Located on race of this elegant place is a delight.
the top floor of Grand Hotel Park- The mussel and clam soup is a clas-
er’s, George’s is not only one of the sic; follow this with a delicious fritto
most panoramic restaurants in misto (deep fried mixed fish and
Naples, but also among the best. seafood). Borgo Marinaro 10–11.
Chef ‘Baciòt’ bases his creative, y 081/7646016. Entrees 8–16. AE,
regionally inspired menus on top- DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Wed–Mon.
class seasonal ingredients. A treat. Bus 152, C4. Map p 77.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele 135. ★★ La Cantina di Triunfo CHI-
y 081/7612474. Entrees 24–30. AIA WINE BAR Best described as a
AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner daily. wine bar with food, this tiny place
80
The Best of Naples
offers a limited choice of excellent interesting on offer, such as stuffed
dishes such as bean and chestnut calamari or sweet and sour roast
soup and baked fish with artichokes pork. Rampa San Giovanni Maggiore
to complement superb wines. Riv- 1A. y 081/5527558. Entrées 7.50–
iera di Chiaia 64. y 081/668101. 15. MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat. Metro
Entrees 18. AE, MC, V. Dinner Dante. Map p 77.
Mon–Sat. Bus 140, 152, C12, C18.
Map p 77.
★★ = Marino SANTA LUCIA
FISH & PIZZA A typical example of
★★ La Cantinella ROYAL NAPLES a modest, neighborhood pizzeria,
GOURMET The combination of an old-fashioned Marino is convenient if
elegant, rather retro atmosphere; you’re staying on the Santa Lucia
views straight onto Vesuvius; and waterfront. It serves great pizza plus
excellent, imaginative food make seafood pasta and main courses. Via
this place a good choice for a spe- Santa Lucia 118. y 081/7640280.
cial meal out. Via Nazario Sauro 23. Pizza 4–8, entrees 7–9. AE, DC,
y 081/7648684. Entrees 13–30. MC, V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sun;
AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Mon– closed Aug. Bus 140, 152, C4. Map
Sat; closed 2 weeks in Aug. Bus 140, p 77.
152, C4. Map p 77.
★★ Mimi alla Ferrovia CORSO
★ La Mattonella ROYAL NAPLES UMBERTO/STATION FISH Beloved
TRADITIONAL A tiny, family-run by visiting celebrities, this Neapolitan
trattoria that takes its name from classic serves great food at fair
the colorful ceramic tiles that adorn prices. Try the delicious antipasti and
the walls, La Matonella serves good, paccheri with monkfish and cherry
traditional food at modest prices. tomatoes. Via Alfonso D’Aragona
Via Nicotera 13. y 081/416541. 19–21. y 081/289004. Entrees
Entrees 6–9. No credit cards. Lunch 13–18. AE, MC, V. Dinner Mon–Sat.
daily, dinner Mon–Sat. Bus E3, E6. Metro Garibaldi. Map p 77.
Map p 77.
= Osteria Toledo TOLEDO TRA-
★★ La Stanza del Gusto CENTRO DITIONAL This Quartieri Spagnoli
STORICO CONTEMPORARY & WINE osteria has been dishing up whole-
BAR This arty eatery is two rolled some home cooking since 1951. Sta-
into one: a sophisticated upstairs ples such as pasta with meat sauce
restaurant featuring a series of and fritto misto (deep fried mixed
menus based on the chef’s interpre- seafood) are served off red-and-
tations of local cuisine, and a color- white checked cloths. Vico Giardi-
ful Cheese Bar where you can netto a Toledo 78. y 081/421257.
choose from dozens of cheeses plus Entrees 4.50–12. MC, V. Lunch daily,
hot dishes and excellent wines. Via dinner Wed–Mon. Bus E3, E6. Map
Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 100. p 77.
y 081/401578. Tasting menus ★★ Palazzo Petrucci CENTRO
35–65; Cheese Bar entrées 11–16.
STORICO CONTEMPORARY This
AE, MC, V. Lunch Tues–Sun, dinner
stylish restaurant, housed in a former
Tues–Sat. Metro Dante. Map p 77.
stables, serves Neapolitan cuisine
★★ La Taverna dell’Arte CEN- with a creative twist; try the lasagne
TRO STORICO CREATIVE TRADI- with buffalo mozzarella, shrimp, zuc-
TIONAL This hard-to-find eatery chini flowers, and pesto. Good wine
has the feel of a cozy private club. list, too. Piazza San Domenico Mag-
The menu changes almost daily giore 4. y 081/5524068. Entrees
and there’s always something 14–18. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch
81
Naples Dining A to Z
Tues–Sun, dinner Tues–Sat. Metro ★★ San Ferdinando TOLEDO
Dante. Map p 77. TRADITIONAL An excellent family-
★★ Radici CHIAIA CONTEMPO- run trattoria where you can sample
RARY With its contemporary decor punchy, flavorful pasta dishes such
and light-handed take on traditional as paccheri with baby squid, capers,
Neapolitan cuisine, Radici is not just and black olives; wash it all down
a hangout for the city’s beautiful with the house falanghina wine,
people: the food is seriously good. served chilled in bright ceramic
Menus are based on seasonal avail- jugs. Via Nardones 117. y 081/
421964. Entrees 9.50–15. AE, DC,
ability and there’s a wine list that
MC, V. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner Wed–
features labels from all over Italy.
Fri. Bus E3, E6. Map p 77.
Riviera di Chiaia 268. y 081/
2481100. Entrees 16–21. AE, DC, Trattoria dell’Ovo BORGO
MC, V. Lunch Fri & Sat, dinner Mon– MARINARI TRADITIONAL Among
Sat. Metro Amedeo. Map p 77. all the trendy eateries of the charm-
★★ Rosiello POSILLIPO FISH & ing Borgo Marinari, this simple little
PIZZA Rosiello’s hillside position trattoria stands out for its modest
offers a unique, panoramic backdrop prices and wholesome, unfussy
for meals on its flower-filled terraces. food. In summer, tables are laid on
Classic dishes (mostly fish-based) are the terrace overlooking the marina.
Via Luculliana 28. y 081/7646352.
carefully prepared and presented on
Entrees 5.50–9. No credit cards.
colorful ceramic plates. Via Santo
Lunch & dinner Fri–Wed. Bus 152,
Strato 10, Posillipo. y 081/7691288.
C4, B. Map p 77.
Entrees 15–30, pizza 6–12. AE, DC,
MC, V. Lunch & dinner Thurs–Tues.
Bus 140,C31. Map p 77.
mura
Associazione Alessandro Ar
Medaglie en
eli Salvator
Scarlatti 2 d'Oro a
a
Rosa
Via S. Alt
Berevino 3 M
M
Via Giotto Piazza
Bourbon Street 4 Medaglie
Cappella della Pietà d'Oro Piazza
dei Turchini 5 ANTIGNANO Leonardo
Centro Sub Campi Via G. Ross Piazza degli
ini Arttisti
Flegrei 6 7 M Quattro Piazza
Collana 7 Giornale Fanzago
Piazza
Via Bernini
Via G. Merliani
Enoteca delle
Quattro
Belledonne 8 Giornale 1
Intra Moenia 9
VOMERO
Kinky 10
Via F. Cilea M F
Maxi Ho Spa Café 11 Vanvitelli
Nabilah 12 Via Cimarosa
Rising South 13 no F F
fa
. Ste
Via S14
S’move
F
Stadio San Paolo 15 F
Via A. F Villa La
Teatro Bellini 16 alcon
e Floridiana CHIAIA
Teatro Mercadante 17
F
Teatro San Carlo 18 Via
Velvet Zone 19 Tas
so
F
Piazza M
Amedeo Via dei
Stazione Corso Via Schipa Mille
Vitt. Emanuele
Villa 8
Pignatelli
Stazione di 14
Mergellina Riviera di Chiaia
Piazza della 11
6 12 15 Repubblica
Villa
Comunale
ci Via F. C
ms araccio
. Gra lo
Via
A olo
cci
C ara
Via
Terminal Aliscafi
(Hydrofoil)
F
Golfo di Napoli
83
s
S. Gennaro
a S. Piazza Museo
Via S. R Vi
osa Vi Galleria Principe lli
Piazza aF
di Napoli isane
Mazzini .S
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Via
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16
Duo
Piazza San
4 9 Gaetano
mo
Stazione
Montesano M
M Dante Piazza 3 Piazza San C E N T R O
Dante 13
F
19
Domenico S T O R I C O
Piazza 10 oce Maggiore Musei
ldeo
F Montesanto . Cr Scienze
Via B
Via To
Naturali
cura oI
. Emanuele
Piazza Piazza
Matteotti Bovio
ldeo
Co r
S. Martino
tis
pre
Via To
QUARTIERI
De
S PA G N O L I o
F
b
A.
17
olo
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5 Galleria Piazza
del Piliero
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Umberto I Municipio
Vi
S A N TA LU C I A
Ac
Via
ton
D.
ia
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Via S. L
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li
N.
Via
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ope Golfo di Napoli
Castel
d’Ovo
0 1500 ft
0 500 m
84
The Best of Naples
Nightlife/A&E Best Bets
Best for Grand Opera Best Student Hangouts
★★★ Teatro San Carlo, Via San ★★★ Piazza Bellini (p 86); and ★★
Carlo 98F (p 86) Piazza San Domenico (p 61)
Best for Neapolitan Baroque Best Upmarket Hangout
Opera ★★★ Chiaia (p 160)
★★ Cappella delle Pietà dei
Best Cool Bar/Club
Turchini, Via Santa Caterina da
★★★ S’move, Vico dei Sospiri 10
Siena 38 (p 85)
(p 85)
Best Summer Nightclub
Best Central Dance Venue
★★★ Nabilah, Via Spiaggia
★★★ Velvet Zone, Via Cisterna
Romana 15, Fusaro (p 87)
dell’Olio 11 (p 87)
Best for a Late-night Glass
Best Way to See the Local
of Wine
Dive Sites
★★★ Enoteca Belledonne, Vico
Centro Sub Campi Flegrei, Via
Belledonne a Chiaia 18 (p 85)
Napoli 1, Pozzuoli (p 87)
Best for Italian Theater
Best Place to See the Home
★ Teatro Mercadante, Piazza
Team Win
Municipio 1 (p 85)
★★★ Stadio San Paolo, Piazzale
Best Open-air Public Pool Teccio, Fuorigrotta (p 87)
Collana, Via Rossini (p 87)
Most Gay-friendly Bars
Best for Live Jazz ★★ Any in Piazza Bellini, including
Bourbon Street, Via Bellini 52 Intra Moenia Piazza Bellini 70
(p 86) (p 85)
Naples Nightlife/A&E A to Z
Naples Nightlife/A&E A to Z
★★★ S’move CHIAIA S’move’s
Ticket Tip upscale deep red and beige decor
The following sites handle online suits its chic Chiaia location. It’s a
ticket sales for music and theater relaxed and friendly place with
events all over Italy: www.charta.it, cool background sounds, halfway
www.helloticket.it, and www.viva between a bar and a club. Vico dei
ticket.it. Hello Italy also handles Sospiri 10A. y 081/7645813. www.
phone sales (some English spoken). smove-lab.net. Metro Piazza
y 800/907080. Amadeo. Map p 82.
Nightclubs
★ Kinky TOLEDO Kinky is the best
venue in Naples to hear reggae
sounds. The DJ spins his tunes out
front while the backroom dance
87
Naples Nightlife/A&E A to Z
space fills to crush level. Via Cis-
terna dell’Olio 21. y 081/5521571,
335/5477299. www.kinkyjam.com.
No cover. Closed mid-June–mid-Sep.
Metro Dante. Map p 82.
★★★ Nabilah FUSARO This gor-
geous seaside venue is one of
Naples’ best summer nightspots.
Kick off your shoes; dancing here is
done on the sand and the cool, con-
temporary ambiance is more Ibiza
than Campania. Trains stop early, so
either go back to town after a cock-
tail, or stay up all night. Via Spiaggia
Romana 15, Fusaro. y 081/8689433.
Cover 10–20; includes 1 drink. Open
May–Sep Fri, Sat 9pm–4am, Sun
6pm–4am. Cumana Rail to Torre
Gaveta. Map p 82.
★★ Rising South CENTRO
STORICO This club occupies an
atmospheric, long, tunnel-like space
with a stone barrel-vault ceiling. Velvet Zone is strictly for night owls.
Armchairs and sofas encourage
lounging (as do the sounds); there’s great dive site. Via Napoli 1, Poz-
contemporary art on the walls and zuoli. y 081/8531563. www.centro
good drinks. A very cool place. Via subcampiflegrei.it. Metro Pozzuoli
San Sebastiano 19. y 335/8790428. or Cumana rail to Gerolamini. Map
www.risingrepublic.com. Annula p 82.
membership 10. Closed mid-May–
mid-Sep. Metro Dante. Map p 82.
= Collana VOMERO This
municipally owned outdoor pool
★★★ Velvet Zone CENTRO opens from June to September and
STORICO Don’t even think of arriv- is one of the few pools in town that
ing at central Naples’ best dance you can use without taking out
venue before 1am. The basement membership. Via Rossini, Vomero.
rooms are smoky and atmospheric y 081/5601988. Metro Quattro
and the dance floor is always Giornate. Map p 82.
packed for DJ sounds that range
from techno to ‘80s revivals. Via Cis-
★★★ = Stadio San Paolo
FUORIGROTTA The Neapolitans
terna dell’Olio 11. y 328/9577115
are soccer (calcio) crazy and flock to
or 339/6700234. Cover 10. Closed
the city’s 80,000-seater stadium in
mid-May–mid-Sep. Metro Dante.
Fuorigrotta to watch the home team
Map p 82.
Napoli play on alternate Sundays
between September and May. Piaz-
Sports zale Teccio, Fuorigrotta. Tickets from
★★ Centro Sub Campi Flegrei Azzurro Service, Via F Galeota 17,
BAIA This center offers excursions Fuorigrotta. y 081/5934001. Cuma
to the submerged city of ancient rail to Mostra. Map p 82.
Baiae (see p 25, 6), a wonderful
88
The Best of Naples
Naples Lodging
B&B Bellini 1 Majestic 14
Belle Arti Resort 2 Micalò 15
Cappella Vecchia 11 3 Miramare 16
Via P. Castellino
an
ANTIGNANO Piazza
Em
Leonardo
V.
Corso
Quattro Stazione
M Giornale Piazza Montesano
Piazza 26 Fanzago
M
Quattro F
Via Bernini
Giornale Piazza
Vi F Montesanto
aT
Vanvitelli V O M E R O .A
ng
eli cura
M F
ni Via S
5
Via Cimarosa Castel
F F Sant’Elmo 23
F
F S. Martino
ldeo
Villa La
Floridiana QUARTIERI
Via To
CHIAIA S P A G N O L I 13
F
F
Galleria
19 F Umberto I
F
20 M Piazza
Amedeo Via dei
Mille 4
14 Palazzo
Villa Piazza d. Via Chiaia Reale
Pignatelli Martiri Piazza del
15 Riviera Plebiscito
di Chia 3
ia
Villa S A N TA
Via
Comunale Piazza LU C I A
D.
18 Vittoria
Mo
cia
16
Via S. Lu
rel
li
Golfo di Napoli
10 9
89
Naples Lodging
Orto Piazza
Botanico Carlo III
ria
Corso Garibaldi
Piazza oli Fo
Sanità rac Vi
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Vi a Piazza L.
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Piazza Piazza
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Fo C. S. Ferdinando
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M Museo 8 rboPiazza San ano
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Via Ruvo Via T
Piazza
6 2 Piazza San Garibaldi
Dante 12 1 17 Gaetano
Via D
M I 24 Corso
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21 be Porta
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Piazza San C E N T R O m
U Nolana
Piazza Domenico S T O R I C O rso
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Garibaldi
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Via B Scienze Piazza Via G. Savarese
7 Naturali Nicola
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Università e rto Mercato
S. Chiara b
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Piazza Bacino
Vi
Molo
Beverello
Information
Museum
M Metro
Golfo di Napoli 0 1500 ft
0 500 m
90
The Best of Naples
Lodging Best Bets
Naples Lodging A to Z
Naples Lodging A to Z
★★ B&B Bellini CENTRO STORICO
Occupying a bright, homey apart-
ment that was once part of a
convent, the Bellini has three com-
fortable rooms with mosaic bath-
rooms and a pretty, flower-filled
terrace for breakfast. Piazza Bellini
68. y 081/0607338. www.bbbellini.
it. 3 units. Doubles 80–100 w/break-
fast. MC, V. Metro Dante. Map p 89.
★★ Belle Arti Resort CENTRO
STORICO A small, stylish hotel
offering a tasteful mix of old and
new; ceiling frescoes and original
fittings mix with flat screen TVs,
contemporary art, and modern
bathrooms. Via Santa Maria di
Costantinopoli 27. y 081/5571062.
www.belleartiresort.com. 7 units.
B&B Bellini.
Doubles 80–160 w/breakfast. AE,
MC, V. Metro Dante. Map p 89.
29. y 081/5567044. 18 units. Dou-
★★ Cappella Vecchia 11 CHIAIA bles 70–130 w/breakfast. MC, V.
This friendly B&B is located in an Metro Vanvitelli or funicular to Via
impressive palazzo. The bright, Morghen. Map p 89.
modern rooms have wood floors
and mosaic bathrooms. Vico Santa ★★★ Costantinopoli 104 CEN-
Maria a Cappella Vecchia 11. TRO STORICO This delightful hotel
y 081/2405117. www.bednaples. is accessed through a garden with a
com. 6 units. Doubles 75–120 w/ small pool. Inside, it is cool and
breakfast. AE, MC, V. Bus 152, C4, sleek with beautifully appointed
E6. Map p 89. rooms featuring tiled floors, antiques,
and smart marble bathrooms. Via
★★ Chiaia Hotel de Charme Costantinopoli 104. y 081/5571035.
CHIAIA Partly housed in a former www.costantinopoli104.it. 19 units.
brothel and located off a quiet Doubles 170–250 w/breakfast. AE,
courtyard, this hotel offers elegant, D, MC, V. Metro Dante. Map p 89.
comfortable rooms and attentive,
friendly service. Via Chiaia 216. ★ Decumani Hotel de Charme
y 081/415555. www.hotelchiaia.it. CENTRO STORICO This refined lit-
33 units. Doubles 99–195 w/break- tle hotel occupies an ex-bishop’s
fast. AE, D, MC, V. Bus E3, E6. Map palace; the elegant rooms feature
p 89. antiques and original stuccowork.
Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli
★★ Cimarosa VOMERO This 15. y 081/5518188. www.
hotel in peaceful, bourgeois Vomero decumani.com. 24 units. Doubles
offers stylish, contemporary decor 99–144 w/breakfast. AE, D, MC, V.
and good prices. Not all rooms have Metro Montesanto, Bus R2. Map
en suite bathrooms. Via Cimarosa p 89.
92
The Best of Naples
www.vesuvio.it. 120 units. Doubles
290–450. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus 140,
152. Map p 89.
★ Hotel del Real Orto Botanico
SANITÀ Overlooking the botanical
gardens and only 1⁄2 km (1⁄3 mile)
from the famous archeological
museum, this friendly hotel has
comfortable rooms, a roof garden,
and a courtyard restaurant serving
local fare. Via Foria 192. y 081/
4421528. www.hotelrealorto
botanico.it. 36 units. Doubles
80–160 w/breakfast. MC, V.
Belle-Epoque elegance, Costantinopoli 104. Metro Cavour. Map p 89.
Naples Lodging A to Z
★★★ Micalò CHIAIA This stylish
little boutique hotel is an oasis of
calm. Simple yet chic rooms feature
iroko wood and pale stone. A deli-
cious breakfast and light meals are
on offer. Riviera di Chiaia 88.
y 081/7617131. www.micalo.it.
9 units. Doubles 165–240 w/break-
fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus 140, 152,
C12, C18. Map p 89.
★★ Miramare ROYAL NAPLES
Small, family-run Miramare occupies
a Liberty villa on the waterfront with
full-on views of Mt. Vesuvius, best
enjoyed from the rooftop terrace. Cool, contemporary style at Micalò.
With its very personalized decor, it
has the atmosphere of a private features antiques, chandeliers, and
home. Via Nazario Sauro 24. y 081/ sumptuous fabrics: make sure you
7647589. www.hotelmiramare.com. ask for a room with a view. Corso
30 units. Doubles 149–299 Vittorio Emanuele 135. y 081/
w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus 152. 7612474. www.grandhotelparkers.
Map p 89. com. 82 units. Doubles 200–360 w/
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Funicular
★ Neapolis CENTRO STORICO Chiaia to Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
The modern rooms of this hotel are Map p 89.
each supplied with a computer and
free Internet access. Prices are ★ Pinto-Storey CHIAIA Housed
good, the staff is very friendly, on the upper floors of a lovely old
and discounts are offered at the Liberty palazzo, the Pinto-Storey
adjoining traditional restaurant. has managed to maintain its old-
Via Francesco del Giudice 13. y 081/ fashioned atmosphere in spite of
4420815. www.hotelneapolis.com. recent renovation. Via G Martucci
24 units. 76–122 w/breakfast. AE, 72. y 081/681260. www.pinto
DC, MC, V. Metro Cavour or Dante. storey.it. 16 units. Double 88–173
Map p 89. w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Metro
Amedeo. Map p 89.
★★ = Paradiso POSILLIPO If
★★ Port’Alba Relais CENTRO
you want to escape to the hills after
a chaotic day in central Naples, the STORICO All six rooms at this styl-
Paradiso a good choice. Its location ish little guesthouse overlook bus-
guarantees panoramic views over tling Piazza Dante. Rooms are done
Mt. Vesuvius and the bay, and many out in soft gray and cream with orig-
of its sunny rooms have terraces. inal wood ceilings and smart bath-
Via Catullo 11. y 081/2475111. rooms. Via Port’Alba 33. y 081/
www.hotelparadisonapoli.it. 72 5645171. www.portalbarelais.com.
units. Doubles 80–230 w/breakfast. 6 units. Doubles 90–150 w/break-
AE, DC, MC, V. Funicular Mergellina fast. AE, MC, V. Metro Dante. Map
to San Gioachino. Map p 89. p 89.
the tourist port and housed in the you can step right off the train into
ex-headquarters of a shipping com- your room. Piazza Garibaldi 91.
pany, it is filled with one-off design y 081/7793111. www.starhotels.it.
classics and superb antiques. 173 units. Doubles 130–260 w/
There’s a gourmet restuarant and a breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro
pool on the roof, a sushi bar and a Piazza Garibaldi. Map p 89.
fabulous spa; guests are even
★ Suite Esedra CORSO UMBERTO/
offered a sheet and pillow menu.
STATION Set back a little from
Via Cristoforo Colombo 45. Tel 081
noisy Corso Umberto II, the Esedra
0175. www.romeohotel.it. 83 units.
features flower-decked balconies
Doubles 330. Bus 1, R2. Map p 89.
and a cozy atmosphere. Suite Venus
★★ San Francesco al Monte has a private terrace and Jacuzzi tub.
VOMERO This hillside hotel com- Via Cantani 12. y 081/5537087.
bines the atmosphere of an ancient www.sea-hotels.com. 17 rooms.
monastery with 21st-century com- Doubles 65–100 w/breakfast. AE,
forts. Rooms all have sea views; two DC, MC, V. Metro Piazza Garibaldi.
have terraces. There is a spectacular Map p 89.
roof garden with a pool and an ele-
gant restaurant serving a creative
★★ = Weekend a Napoli
VOMERO Paolo and Patrizia offer
take on local dishes. Corso Vittorio
the warmest of welcomes and
Emanuele 328. y 081/4239111.
homemade cakes for breakfast at
www.hotelsanfrancesco.it. 45 units.
this charming B&B, which occupies
Doubles 140–295 w/breakfast. AE,
an elegant Liberty villa in quiet, leafy
DC, MC, V. Funicular Central to Corso
Vomero. Self-catering apartments
Vittorio Emanuele. Map p 89.
are in the annex. Via E Alvino 157.
★ Starhotel Terminus CORSO y 081/5781010. www.weekend
UMBERTO/STATION If you want to anapoli.com. 6 units. Doubles 133–
stay near the train station, this big 193 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V. Map
4-star hotel with its sharp, contem- p 89.
porary decor, is an excellent choice;
3 The Best of the
Amalfi Coast
96
The Best of the Amalfi Coast
Liternum Pomigliano
Lake Patria SP1 Qualiano Nola
Afragola Avellino
Mugnano A16 E842
Marina di Moschiano
Lago di Patria Marano Monteforte
S. Anastasia Ottaviano Irpino
Pizzo di Alvano
Licola Mare
SS88
Golfo di Gaeta Cuma NAPLES
ON T
M 5 Amalfi 2 Osteria Viva Lo Re
Sorrento 4 SS163
Massa Lubrense 3 Herculaneum
Praiano ST
Mare Tirreno S. Agata COA 4 Sorrento
sui Due Golfi LFI
Isola di AMA Day 2
THE
Bocc
a
0 6 mi
Capri 5 Positano
Pta. Campanella
Anacapri
Pic
Paler mo, Golfo di Salerno Day 3
co
0 6 km 6 Capri (Gulf of Salerno)
la
Cagliari
6 Capri
97
Day 1
1 ★★ = Vesuvius. Vesuvius
looms over much of the area cov-
ered in this guide and continues to
fascinate both for its past and for
what lies ahead: when will it blow?
The first stop on this 3-day trip is an
optional climb up to peer into the
unfathomable depths of its crater.
(See p 118 in Chapter 4 for details of
how to visit.) There’s a lot to fit into
the day, and so I suggest skipping
the observatory and its museum
and making straight for the Quota
1000 car park, from where foot-
paths ascend to the crater. Herculaneum.
Climbing Vesuvius.
98
The Best of the Amalfi Coast
therefore easier to fit in to a short able to fit in the church of Sant’
itinerary. It’s no less interesting than Antonino, the charming little clois-
its larger counterpart down the ter of San Francesco, and the
coast, however, and is better pre- Museobottega della Tarsialignea
served. Make sure you have water before walking down to Marina
with you; there are no refreshment Grande for an early lunch on the
facilities on site. For a full descrip- beach at Sant’Anna Da Emilia (see
tion and practical information on p 129) before leaving for Positano.
Herculaneum, see p 114. For a full description and practical
information on Sorrento, see p 124.
From Herculaneum, follow the
green signs back to the A3 auto- Take the torturous route over the
strada, direction Salerno. After mountain known as the Nastro
c. 13km (8 miles), exit the A3 at Azzurro (the SP 145), which
Castellmare di Stabia and follow becomes increasing spectacular
the coast road (SP 145) to Sor- as you descend towards Positano.
rento, 48km (30 miles) south of
Naples.
Traffic Tip
4 ★★ = Sorrento. Go straight
In high season, when traffic is bad,
to your hotel to check in and leave
you can leave your car in Sorrento,
your bags. You should be able to fit
taking the boat to Positano and
in a visit to the Duomo before an
from there to Capri on Day 3. From
aperitivo in Piazza Tasso, followed
Capri, you can return directly to Sor-
by dinner in any of the town’s fine
rento, thereby cutting down on the
restaurants. After dinner, wander
driving time back to Naples.
around the grid of charming narrow
lanes in the center of town and pass
by the Sedile Dominova before
5 ★★★ = Positano. This town
heading back to the hotel for a good
is as short on ‘sights’ as it is long on
night’s sleep.
spectacular views, but it’s a marvel-
Day 2 ous place for wandering, window-
Sorrento’s other sights can be easily shopping, and people-watching.
covered in a morning if you start Check in at your hotel and then fol-
early. If you skip the out-of-the-way low the mini-tour outlined in Chap-
Museo Correale, you should be ter 5, p 131, 1, ending up on the
Sorrento’s cathedral.
99
Marina Grande beach for a late town where you can reward yourself
afternoon swim and a cold beer. See with a cappuccino at a bar in Piazza
p 139 for my pick of the town’s Umberto I before the hordes arrive.
many hotels and restaurants. From here you can walk to the Belve-
dere Tragara to admire the Fara-
glioni and visit the Certosa di San
Travel Tip Giacomo. See the Capri mini-tour on
Hydrofoils ply the Positano–Capri p 144, 2.
route between April and October After a quick lunch, catch the
with the most frequent number of bus to lower-key Anacapri where
services running July–September. you should visit Axel Munthe’s spec-
Call the tourist information office tacular Villa San Michele and the
(y 089/875067) for a schedule. church of San Michele. From here
you can catch the chairlift up to
Monte Solaro for all-encompassing
Day 3 views. If there’s time, finish off the
6 ★★★ Capri. There’s no denying day with a trip to the Grotta
that Capri is magical, although in high Azzurra before catching the last
season, the presence of thousands of hydrofoil back to the mainland.
day-trippers can spoil things. Ideally,
you should stay overnight, but if time Catch the hydrofoil back to Posi-
is limited, a day here will at least give tano or Sorrento (depending on
you a taste of this most glamorous of where you left the car) and head
Mediterranean islands. Catch the ear- back to Naples via the SP 145
liest hydrofoil possible and take the and A3.
funicular railway straight up to Capri
100
The Best of the Amalfi Coast
Day 1 Days 5 & 6
1 Pompeii 7 Amalfi
Pomigliano
SP1 Qualiano
Nola
Afragola Avellino
2 Vico Equense 8 Ravello
Mugnano A16 E842
Day 2 Day 7 Moschiano
Marano Monteforte
3 Sorrento 9 Maiori S. Anastasia Ottaviano Irpino
Pizzo diAlvano
Day 3 10 Cetara SS88
4 Capri 11 Vietri NAPLES
1 VESUVIUS A30 Solofra
Day 4 Pozzuoli Portici Sarno
NATIONAL
5 Sant’Agata su Due Golfi G. of Herculaneum PARK
6 Positano Pozzuoli Torre A3 Pompeii
I. di del Greco E45
Nisida Nocera
Casamicciola Pompei Inferiore Baronissi
Procida Oplontis Torre
Terme Annunziata A3 E45
Forio I. di Procida
Ischia Cava de
Castellammare Tirreni
S. Angelo Barano di Stabia Salerno
d'Ischia
G olfo di Napoli M. Faito 11
Isola (G ulf of Naples) 2 8
Ponza 10
The Best in One Week
at t ari 9
d'Ischia Meta ti L
Mon 7
Mare Tirreno Sorrento 3 6 SS163
Massa Lubrense
Praiano st
5 oa
lfi C
Isola di Ama
The
Bo c c
G olfo di Salerno
a
Capri
0 6 mi Pta. Campanella (G ulf of Salerno)
Anacapri
Pi c
Palermo,
co
4
l
0 6 km Cagliari Capri a
101
Day 1
1 ★★★ = Pompeii. The
remains of the ancient Roman city
of Pompeii are vast, and so allow a
minimum of three hours, longer if
you want to visit both the Villa dei
Misteri and the amphitheater, which
lie at opposite ends of the site. See
p 108 for a full tour of the city.
detailed coverage of sights, hotels, stop off for a swim at the long beach
and restaurants in Amalfi, see p 130. in 9 Maiori before continuing to
the delightful fishing port town of
Just out of Amalfi on the road to
0 Cetara, famous for its bottled
Ravello, you pass charming little
anchovies and colatura di alici, a kind
Atrani, which is worth a short
of anchovy sauce. Back on the road,
visit.
the last Amalfi Coast stop is ! Vietri
8 ★★★ Ravello. The winding where you can purchase some of the
road up to Ravello branches off the colorful ceramics for which the town
main coastal road just after Atrani. is so famous.
You will arrive in this captivating
Head back to Naples on the A3
town around lunchtime, and so after
(about 50km/31 miles) autostrada,
finding your hotel and something to
which you can pick up at Vietri.
eat, there should be plenty of time
to see the Duomo, the little church
Cetara.
of San Giovanni del Toro, and
Villa Rufolo.
Wherever you end up eating and
staying, do stop off at a bar at
Piazza Duomo for an after-dinner
coffee or digestivo. The square, with
it is marble sidewalk, lovely old
buildings, and soft light, is magical
at night. For detailed coverage of
sights, hotels, and restaurants in
Ravello, see p 140.
Day 7
Start the last day of this tour with a
visit to the gardens of Ravello’s Villa
Cimbrone and then head back down
to the madness of the coast road and
continue the drive east. You could
104
The Best of the Amalfi Coast
Ottaviano
Licola Mare S. Anastasia SS88
Cuma NAPLES Pizzo di Alvano
3 VESUVIUS A30
Solofra
Pozzuoli Portici NATIONAL Sarno
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2 Ischia 8 Amalfi 10
Days 4 & 5 9 Ravello
3 Vesuvius’ Crater Days 9 & 10
0 6 mi
4 Herculaneum 10 Paestum
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5 Sorrento Cagliari
105
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tabia
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14 Anfiteatro
15 Zi Caterina
110
P
Best Day Trips
robably founded in the 7th century B.C., the city of Pom-
peii was once home to 20,000 souls. A cosmopolitan com-
mercial center laid out in a typical grid pattern, it was a popular ritzy
holiday spot among Roman patricians who built grand villas and
enjoyed the town’s brothels and spas. START: Porta Marina, 23km
(141/2 miles) from Naples. Trip length: three hours minimum.
Taking a Break?
At the time of writing, there were
no refreshments available within the
site. There are plenty of bars and
cafés near each of the entrances/
exits, however, so buy a sandwich
and something to drink and find a
quiet spot for a picnic during your
tour.
111
Pompeii
The typical ‘atrium style’ House of
the Tragic Poet is famous for the
black and white mosaic of a
chained, fierce-looking dog in the
doorway with the inscription Cave
Canem (Beware of the Dog).
6 ★★★ Casa del Fauno. This
2nd century B.C. house (named after
the delicate bronze statue of a faun
in the impluvium) was one of the
city’s largest and most sophisticated
dwellings. Unusually, it is built round
two porticoed atria between which
lie the exedra, the discussion hall,
and heart of the house. The million-
piece mosaic depicting the battle of House of the Faun.
Issus was found here; it is now in
the Archeological Museum in wall paintings in ‘Pompeiian Red’.
Naples, along with the original This house has been closed for resto-
statue of the faun. ration work for some years; it is
hoped it will reopen during 2010.
7 ★★★ Casa dei Vettii. Two
blocks to the east is this wealthy 8 ★★★ Villa dei Misteri. Out-
merchant’s house, which contains side the Porta Ercolano (at the north
some extraordinarily well-preserved west corner of the site) is this large
wall paintings, the most infamous country house, the most famous of
being the well-endowed figure of Pri- all Pompeii’s buildings, which con-
apus, god of fertility, in the doorway. tains the city’s best-preserved fres-
Through the atrium on the right of coes. Among these is the celebrated
the entrance is the kitchen, complete cycle of paintings that illustrates a
with cooking pots placed on a young girl’s initiation into the forbid-
hearth. Off the kitchen is a small den cult of Dionysus, against a back-
room decorated with erotic wall ground of vivid Pompeiian red.
paintings and a statue-fountain of 9 ★★★ Terme Stabiane. Back
Priapus. No prizes for guessing
within the walls, head toward the
where the water spouted. The sitting
southern end of the site and this, the
room is famous for its magnificent
Pompeii
Fresco detail, Villa dei Misteri, Pompeii.
Decumano Massimo
11
10
Cardo IV Superiore
Cardo V Superiore
Cardo III Superiore
I NSUL
N S U L A VI
VI I NSUL
NSULA V
9
INSULA
O R I E N TA L I S I I
I NS
N S U L A VI
VII 8
Decumano Inferiore 5
7
I NSU
NSULA II
Vicolo Meridionale
Cardo III Inferiore
Cardo IV Inferiore
Cardo V Inferiore
4
are
I NSUL
NSULA III I NSUL
NSULA IV I NSUL
NSULA
O RI
R I ENTAL
E N TA L I S I
Via M
6 3
12
Herculaneum
ituated just inland on the southwest side of Vesuvius, the
exclusive town of Herculaneum was probably founded in the 4th
century B.C., although most of what is visible today dates from the
2nd century B.C. Compared to Pompeii, the site is small although you
can see only part of the whole town; the rest remains buried beneath
the modern town of Ercolano. START: site entrance, 10-minute walk
downhill from Ercolano–Scavi station. Trip length: 12 km ((8 miles).
An overview of Herculaneum.
Herculaneum
in the women’s section are particu-
larly well-preserved), the round frigi- Herculaneum’s most famous build-
darium (for cold-water bathing) ings, this villa actually lies outside
decorated with paintings of fish, and the main site but has been closed
the next door caldarium with its tub since 2007 for restoration work;
for hot water baths. ‘they’ say that it will probably reopen
9 ★★★ Casa di Nettuno e within 2010. The once luxurious villa
is named after the 1,000-odd badly
Anfitrite. Farther up the Cardo IV,
charred but legible papyrus scrolls
just past the Bottega (a shop with
that were discovered here. The
amphora-stacked shelves), is this
other extraordinary treasures
house named after Neptune and
revealed during excavations were
Aphrodite, the subjects of the bright
nearly 90 sculptures, in both marble
blue mosaic in the nymphaeum
and bronze (Roman copies of Greek
(shrine) at the rear.
originals). These magnificent works
0 ★ Casa del Bel Cortile. This are now housed in Rooms 114–117
house, on two levels, indeed has a of the Museo Archeologico in Naples
‘Lovely Courtyard’. In the main room (see p 31, @).
is a glass case containing the skele-
Scavi di Ercolano. Corso Resina 1,
tons of a 15 year-old boy and a
Ercolano. y 081/7324311, 081/
young man and women, all found on
7777008. www.pompeiisites.org.
the beach.
Admission 11 adults, 5.50 EU citi-
! ★★ Sede degli Augustali. At zens 18–24 yrs, free EU citizens
the top-left corner of the site is this under 18 or over 65. Nov–Mar daily
imposing public building, once the 8:30am–5pm (last entrance 3:30pm),
administrative headquarters of an Apr–Oct daily 8:30am–7:30pm (last
organization dedicated to the cult entrance 6pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
of emperors and named after the 25 Dec. Circumvesuviana train from
Emperor Augustus. In the far room Naples to Ercolano–Scavi station
are two vivid wall paintings; the one (journey time 17 min).
on the left shows Hercules arriving
in Olympia after his labors accompa-
nied by Juno, Minerva, and Jupiter.
Vesuvius
Blowing its Top
It’s a question of when and not if: mainland Europe’s only active
volcano will erupt again. Vesuvius last blew its top in 1944 and the
longer it lies dormant, the greater the risk of an eruption. Its inner
rumblings have been monitored by the Osservatorio Vesuviano
since 1841 and evacuation plans will be activated at the first sign of
trouble. However, when you look at the lower slopes of the moun-
tain and see how densely populated it is (around 1,000,000 people
live in the ‘comuni vesuviani’), you realize how critical the situation
could be. Experts believe that a present-day eruption will be similar
to that of A.D. 79: A surge cloud will flow down the mountain at
65–80 kph (40–50 mph) reaching a temperature of around 400°C
(752°F). Anyone in its path will be carbonized.
3 ★★★ The Crater. You must pay 4 Bar. The only place to buy
to approach the rim of the crater, but refreshments is located at Quota
once up close, you get to peer down 1000. The bar is nothing special, but
into its fascinating, unknown depths. you can relax with a cold drink and
Of course, the other reason to be up a sandwich and enjoy the view.
here is to admire the peerless views, Quota 1000, Parco Nazionale di
Vesuvio. No phone. $.
Via Sacra
Ipogeo
8
Ginnasio
Capitolium 7 Comitium
6
Via Porta Sirena 1 Bar Anna
Curia Macellum
2 Porta Giustizia
3 Via Sacra
Roman
Houses 3 4 Basilica (Tempio di Hera)
5 5 Tempio di Nettuno
Via Sacra
6 Forum
Via Magna Grecia
4 7 Ekklesiasterion
Basilica
8 Anfiteatro
9 Tempio di Cerere
2 10 Museo Archeologico
Nazionale di Paestum
Via Nettuno 11 11 Fattoria del Casaro
Paestum
in around 550 B.C., it is the earliest
of the three temples.
5 ★★★ Tempio di Nettuno.
The jewel of the site is this magnifi-
cent construction, the best pre-
served and largest of the three
temples, possibly dedicated to
Poseidon or, according to a more
recent theory, Apollo. It was built in
around 450 B.C and is amazingly
intact; only the roof and internal
walls are missing. Like the other
temples, it was constructed using
local limestone rather than marble.
6 ★ Forum. The forum was the
hub of any Roman city; this one was
enclosed on four sides by a covered
colonnade with taverns and shops.
Tomb of the Diver, Museo Archeologico
On the northern side, there was a
Nazionale.
sports and leisure complex, which
included a rectangular piscina (pool)
4 ★★★ Basilica (Tempio di with a labyrinth for underwater
Hera). The archaeologists who first swimming.
discovered the city of Paestum in
the 18th century mistook this build- 7 ★ Ekklesiasterion. This survi-
ing for a basilica, but we now know vor of the Greek city, once part of
that it was constructed as a temple the agorà, was an open air theater,
to Hera (Juno), the wife of Zeus. Built a circular construction with tiered
Via M
Filippo e Giacomo
le
16 10 ea
Sorrento
aria
6 Sedile Dominova Grande C
Piazza S. 9 Via Piazza
7 Museobottega della
Picc
Antonino 3 Lauro
ola
Tarsialignea 15 Corso Italia
Via T
8 Bar Fauno 19
6 1
asso
9 Basilica di Sant’Antonino 8
la
10 San Francesco . Nico 7 oro 4
Via S Via Fu
11 Marina Grande
lia 17
12 Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi 5 Angri
Piazza Cors
o Ita18
Veniero Golfo di Pompei A3 E45
13 Vico Equense San Antonio Pellezzano
Napoli Castellammare
14 Gelateria Gabriele Lettere Abate Tramonti
di Stabia M. Cerreto
o
Previous page: Positano from the terrace of the Hotel San Pietro.
Where to Stay & Dine Cap
Via ci Pimonte M. Finestra
Antica Trattoria 15 Aran Monte Faito
egli ari Vietri sul
Bellevue Syrene 16 Via D 13 21 at t
Mare
14
Moiano n t i L Ravello
Casa Astarita 17 M o Agerola
Sorrento Meta Positano
Erchie
The Garden 18 SS163 Amalfi
La Minervetta 19 12 San Pietro Praiano
0 600 ft
Sant’Anna Da Emilia 20 Marina del
Cantone Mare Tirreno
Torre del Saracino 21 0 150 m
125
Sorrento
orrento is set on top of sheer cliffs overlooking the Bay of
Naples, from the northern shore of the jutting Sorrentine Penin-
sula. The area has been settled since prehistoric times with Etrus-
cans, Greeks, and Romans all moving in. Although modern Sorrento
has lost much of its Grand Tour luster, it’s still a very popular resort
and makes a good base for touring. START: Piazza Tasso.
1★ = Piazza Tasso. This busy Terranova, who left their home and
square is named after Sorrento’s its contents to the town of Sorrento
most famous literary son, the poet in the 1920s, this museum displays
Torquato Tasso (1544–95); there’s a their collection of paintings, furni-
statue of him next to Bar Fauno. ture, and the decorative arts plus
With its central location, the square local archaeological finds. Particu-
is usually a-buzz with traffic and peo- larly interesting is the collection of
ple, its pavement cafés popular for a 18th-century Italian and European
morning cappuccino or an evening porcelain originating in such facto-
aperitivo. On the north side of the ries as Capodimonte, Doccia, Meis-
piazza there’s a balcony overlooking sen, Frankenthal, and Chelsea. The
a deep gully that leads to Marina lovely garden offers fine views of the
Piccola where the ferries to and bay. @ 1 hr. Via Correale 50. y 081/
from Naples, Capri, and the other 8781846. www.sorrento-online.com/
coastal towns dock. To the right is museocorreale. Admission 6, 3
the entrance to Sorrento’s grandest under-12s. Wed–Mon 9am–2pm.
of grand hotels, the Grand Hotel Vit-
toria where the great tenor Enrico
Caruso once stayed. You can usually 3 ★★ Gelateria Valestra. On the
way back into the center of town,
pop in and have a look at its glorious
stop off at this farm shop, which sells
garden without being harassed by
superb homemade ice cream (try the
hotel staff. @ 45 min. Piazza Tasso.
sinful zabaglione) as well as home-
2 ★ Museo Correale di Ter- produced cheeses. Piazza Angelina
ranova. Housed in the grand Lauro 45. y 081/8785784. $.
18th-century villa of the Counts of
4 Via Pietà. From just behind where you can see the trompe l’oeil
Torquato Tasso’s statue in Piazza back wall. At no. 14, 13th-century
Tasso, narrow Via Pietà leads west, Palazzo Veniero has windows
passing several imposing palazzi. At framed with arches in patterned
no. 18, the 14th-century Palazzo brick and no. 24, just before the
Correale was built in Catalan style arch at the end of the street, has
but has a splendid rococo majolica Gothic arched windows. @ 10 min.
courtyard (the ‘Esedra Maiolica’), 5 ★ Duomo dei Santi Filippo
reminiscent of the cloister at Santa
e Giacomo. This site was once
Chiara in Naples. The building is pri-
occupied by a Romanesque cathe-
vately owned, but the courtyard is
dral, but was rebuilt in the 15th cen-
occupied by a florist’s shop from
tury. What you see today is
relatively modern although a few
Card players at the Sedile Dominova.
old features have survived such as
the 16th-century Bishop’s marble
throne. The nave is divided by solid
columns supporting rounded arches
and the side chapels are decorated
with 16th- and 17th-century paint-
ings. The choir stalls feature local
wood intarsia work and there’s a
magnificent organ loft (look up as
you leave the building). @ 30 min.
Corso Italia/Via Giuliani. y 081/
8782248. Free admission. Daily
7.45am–noon & 4.30–8.30pm.
6 ★ Sedile Dominova. Situated
at the heart of Sorrento’s old town,
this place must be a strong con-
tender for the prize for most
127
Sorrento
picturesque working men’s club just
about anywhere. It was also a meet- 8 ★★ Bar Fauno. This elegant
ing place in the 15th century, but a lit- café with its large pavement terrace
tle more upscale: aristocratic bigwigs is a good place for a light lunch.
would get together among the now Choose from giant salads, pasta
faded frescoes of this open loggia to dishes, and toasted sandwiches;
discuss local politics. These days, the good pre-dinner cocktails too. Piazza
place is popular with old-timers play- Tasso 13–15. y 081/8787735. $–$$.
ing cards, although they’re probably
discussing local politics too. @ 5 min. 9 ★ Basilica di Sant’Antonino.
Via San Cesario/Via Giuliani. This rather odd-looking baroque
7 ★★ Museobottega della church, dedicated to the town’s
Tarsialignea. More local intarsia patron saint, stands on the site of a
work is on display in this museum, much earlier church; the 11th-cen-
housed in red-painted Palazzo tury wood door dates from the origi-
Pomarici Santomasi. Sorrento arti- nal building. Sant’Antonino, the
sans became famous for this type of protector of sailors, is said to have
wood marquetry in the mid-1700s, saved a small child who had been
and the museum contains a wonder- swallowed by a whale; hence, the
ful collection of furniture and objects whalebone mounted on the wall of
illustrating the intricate craft. You the porch. It’s lovely inside with a
can buy examples of contemporary coffered ceiling and ranks of chan-
artisans’ work in the museum shop deliers. Two staircases lead down to
and visit them at work in two ‘bot- the marble crypt displaying ex-votos
teghe’ (workshops) next door. from shipwrecked sailors and paint-
@ 1 hr. Via San Nicola 28. y 081/ ings of boats in heavy seas. The
8771942. www.alessandrofiorentino saint’s tomb is down here too.
collection.it. Admission 8 adults, @ 15 min. Piazza Sant’Antonino.
5 over 60s and 12–18 yrs, free No phone. Free admission. Daily
under-12s. Oct–May Tues–Sun 9am–noon & 5–7pm.
10am–1pm & 3–6:30pm, June–Sep 0 ★★★ San Francesco. Via San
Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 4–7:30pm. Francesco leads north to this little
Around Sorrento
If you want to leave the crowds behind, head to the hilly inte-
rior of the Sorrentine Peninsula, an area rich in unparalleled natural
scenery from where the land dips away to sheer southern coastline
in a head-spinning way. @ Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi lies 390m
(1,300 ft) up; apart from the views, you can admire the magnificent
inlaid altar in the Renaissance church of Santa Maria delle Grazie
and splash out on a meal at one of Italy’s best-known restaurants,
Don Alfonso 1890. From here, the famous Nastro Azzurro (Blue
Ribbon) road wends its spectacular, 14km (81⁄2 miles) way down to
Positano. Back down on the coast and just east of Sorrento, pictur-
esque # Vico Equense makes a low-key alternative to Sorrento
as a base for exploring. Among the town’s sights is the 14th-century
church of Santissima Annunziata, built dramatically on the top of
sheer cliffs. Gelato-holics shouldn’t miss the artisan ice cream at
$ Gelateria Gabriele at Corso Umberto I 5. If you feel like a
swim, there’s a good beach near Marina di Equa, a picturesque
seaside village dominated by a Saracen watchtower and home to
my favorite restaurant in the whole region, the Torre del Saracino
(see p 129).
129
i M. dell'Avvocata
M. S. Angelo ont
Hotel Amalfi 15 Marina di Equa Moiano a Tre Pizzi
M Scala Minori
Le Sirene 16 Maiori 12
Meta Ticciano SS366 Ravello
Pta. del Piano di
Palazzo Murat 17Capo Agerola 15 10 11 SS163 Erchie Golfo di
Marina Sorrento Preazzano 17 24
San Pietro 18 Salerno
di Puolo 1 2 S. Lazzaro
19 8 9
21 Capo d'Orso
Santa Caterina 19 Sorrento San Pietro 18 14
SS163 25 22 16 5
Where to Dine Massa Sant'Agata 3 4 20 6 7
20
Alfonso a MareLubrense sui Due Golfi 23 Capo di Conca
Da Gemma Marciano
21 Capo Sottile
La Brace 22 Torca
La Cambusa 23
Termini 0 3 mi
Next 2 24 Mare Tirreno
M. S. Costanzo 0 3 km
San Pietro 25 Capri
131
Positano by night.
1 ★★★ = Positano. The most come here to see the ‘sights’ (there
famous of the Amalfi Coast towns aren’t many); they come to stroll the
clings impossibly to an almost sheer pretty, bougainvillea-draped lanes,
cliff-face, its pastel-hued houses to hang out on bar and hotel ter-
tumbled on top of each other, races, and to admire the many
united by narrow pathways and lots unforgettable views.
of often steep steps. Few people
Positano’s History
The town flourished in the 12th and 13th centuries, when its
merchant fleet gave rival and neighbor Amalfi a run for its money, but
subsequently entered a long decline. So bad was the situation by the
mid-1800s that three-quarters of the 8,000 population emigrated to
America, leaving the place to regress to a quiet fishing village. Then,
after World War II, Positano was ‘discovered’ by the likes of John
Steinbeck, Stravinsky, and Diaghilev and it was only a question of
time before the dolce vita jet-set moved in; which they did, big time,
in the 1960s. Today the town is undeniably picturesque and its natu-
ral setting is stunning. However, between late May and September,
it’s crowded with day-trippers and very expensive. If you want to get
a feel for ‘old’ Positano, come out of season.
132
The Amalfi Coast
Positano
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Park the car, or get off the bus, at the 13th-century Madonna and Child.
top of the town and walk down to There’s always plenty going on at
a Piazza dei Mulini. From here, the gray sand and pebble beach of
Via dei Mulini descends towards the d Spiaggia Grande, a natural
beach, passing b Palazzo Murat meeting place for the locals where
(now a lovely hotel) on the way. This restaurants, bars, and pine trees line
elegant, 18th-century mansion with the curve of sand. Fishing boats are
its gorgeous courtyard garden is one pulled up on the right side of the
of the few aristocratic period build- beach while the left-hand end is
ings in Positano and once belonged occupied by private bathing estab-
to Gioachino Murat, King of Naples. lishments. The free beach is in the
Farther down the hill lies the church middle. A footpath leads west
of c Santa Maria Assunta with around the point to e Il Fornillo
its typical green and yellow majolica- beach, a good alternative location
tiled dome and, inside, a glowing for a swim.
Gennaro, which houses 16th- and main road down the sheer cliff to a
17th-century altar paintings. watery cave, complete with huge
stalagmites and stalactites, where
4 ★★ Praiano. Once a center for
you will be loaded into a rowing
the silk industry, Praiano makes a
boat; or you can (and this is the
good, low-key alternative to Posi-
more pleasant option) catch a boat
tano for touring the coast. The
from a neighboring port and arrive
church of San Luca lies at the top
by sea. The name comes from the
of the town and there’s a medieval
intense blue/green light that filters
lookout tower on the rocks. Just
into the cave from an underwater
along the coast is the tiny, pictur-
crevice; it’s at its best between
esque fishing hamlet of Marina di
about noon and 3pm. @ 11⁄2 hr; go
Praia, a clutch of cottages, a couple
at lunchtime or in the afternoon to
of restaurants (including Alfonso al
avoid crowds. On the main coast
Mare, see p 139), and a few boats
road 1km (0.6 mile) west of Conca
pulled up on a tiny beach squeezed
between walls of towering rock. Marina di Furore.
5 ★ Marina di Furore. From
this point, the coastline becomes
quite wild. The Vallone di Furore,
a deep, fjord-like gully opening onto
the sea a couple of kilometers east
of Praiano, is a case in point. A via-
duct crosses the gorge and steps
from the top lead down to the min-
iscule hamlet of Marina di Furore, lit-
erally just a scattering of restored
pastel-hued huts and fishing boats;
it makes a great photo opportunity.
6 ★★★ = Grotta dello
Smeraldo. The Emerald Grotto
that lies just before Conca dei
Marini justly attracts the crowds.
You can take the elevator from the
134
The Amalfi Coast
Via Capuano
Amalfi 8E
Via Pastai
8D
Lorenzo d ’
Cimitero
Monumen t ale
cia
an
Br
Am
a
Vi
alf
8C
i
Piazza Palazzo
Duomo di Città
Corso Roma
era
. Cam
Via M 8B 8A
Via
0 500 ft
Charming Atrani.
! Bar Risacca. One of several
bars on the small square from
where you can soak up the simple,
9 ★★★ Pansa. This old-fashioned local life, Risacca serves anything
pastry shop and café turns out
exemplary versions of local special- from coffee and cakes to light meals
ties such as torta di limone (lemon and evening cocktails. Piazza
cake) and chocolate torta Caprese, Umberto I 16. y 089/872866. $–$$.
a kind of local chocolate cake.
There’s a nice terrace too. Piazza @ ★★ = Cetara. Working east
Duomo 40. y 089/871065. $. from Atrani, the coast road passes
by Minori and Maiori (which has the
0 ★ Atrani. For many people, the longest beach in the area) and some
classic Amalfi Coast drive finishes in more impressive coastal scenery
before reaching the lazy little fishing
Where to Dine
Where to Dine
nzi
2 Duomo
i Chiu
10
no
3 Museo del Corallo
lia
d
Cig
4 Villa Rufolo
8
Via V.
publica
Via
5 Emporio Ravello
5
6 San Giovanni del Toro
Piazza 3
Via della Re
2 7 Villa Cimbrone
Duomo
1
4 Where to Stay & Dine
Cumpà Cosimo 8
Via
11 Hotel Caruso 9
sco
Ma
Rosellini’s 10
do
nce
nna
Villa Giordano 11
Fra
del
Villa Maria 12
S.
Via
l’O
12
s
Via Cig
pid
epublica
Via
Fiu
Via
Via dei F
ale
me
Va
us
liano
co
ll
ella R
on
e
d
Via
0 600 ft
7 0 150 m
Ravello
The coastline seen from Ravello.
Arcera 10
5 Arco Naturale Walk
GRADOL
G RADOLA ARTIMO
A RT I M O
6 Marina Piccola 4
Damecuta LLINARO Villa S. Michele
7 Anacapri I N A R O 15 LO C A PO
PO
o
(Museum)
e ri
8 Agorà
Via 1
Az Gro S. Michele i b
9 Monte Solaro z t Castello S. Costanzo S. Michele o Via T
ORRICO
O R R I C O urra ta Barbarossa ap C
10 Grotta Azzurra
Via 7 MO
M O N E TA
Cala del
Tuoro ANGINO
A NGINOLA Lo
Rio 8 11 Via
17 I L PASSET
PA S S E T I EL
E L LO 14 LA CROCE
Where to Stay & Dine a 2
Rio s CAPRILE
C APRILE Via Rom 3 Via
d. Ce a Monte S. Maria 16
Da Gemma 11
a
MESOL
M ESOLA a ro 5
a el F
ier
Hotel Piccola Marina 12 ov d 12
gl pp
Traga
Mi
S. Maria
a
Hotel Punta Tragara 13
ra
Vi
Cala di MATERITA
M AT E R I TA 9 Cetrella
La Capannina 14
a
Mezzo Marina Piccola
Vi
La Maruzzella 15 13
Le Grotelle 16 Pta. di Mulo Pta. di Tragara
MIGLIERA
M IGLIERA
L’Olivo 17 Pta. di Terita
Cala Faraglione
LLIMMO
IMMO Cala Ventroso di Fuori
Marmolata
Pta. Ventroso
Pta. Faro
Carena (Lighthouse) 0 2000 ft
Capri
he name Capri evokes an unequivocal vision of glamour
and beauty, a bewitching honeypot for the rich and famous. It
was the playground of debauched Roman emperor Tiberius (who
spent the last 10 years of his life here and built 12 villas) and contin-
ues to draw the international jet-set, despite the day-trippers who
invade during the summer months. START: Marina Grande.
1 Marina Grande. The first town. Boats for the Blue Grotto (see
impression of Marina Grande, where 0) also leave from here. @ 15 min.
the hydrofoils dock, is likely to be dis- 2 ★★★ Capri Town. White-
appointing, especially if you arrive in
washed Capri town, with its narrow
high season. Where’s the magic?
lanes and dazzling white houses,
Tourists swarm in their thousands
stairways, low arches, and shoulder-
and the area surrounding the port is
to-shoulder designer boutiques,
characterized by cheap souvenir
embodies the idea of a chic Mediter-
stalls and overpriced restaurants and
ranean town. At its center is the
bars. So get out as quickly as possi-
world-famous piazzetta.
ble; catch the funicular to Capri
When To Go
‘Capri makes you forget everything,’ announced Lenin in 1910
while visiting his friend Maxim Gorky, who had a villa on the island. These
days, it’s hard to forget it all if you come between late June and early
September when day-trippers cram onto the tiny island, testing its
resources to the limit. The best way to avoid the (literal) crush is to stay
overnight; all but a very small percentage of the tourists leave at the end
of the day, as the place heaves a sigh of relief and settles into something
resembling a genuine island atmosphere, albeit a very chic island.
146
The Amalfi Coast
Capri
Via
C. C Por to
olo Turistico
m bo
S. Costanzo
Via S. Michele
Vi Ma
co
a
ces
rina
Pr
Gr
ran
ovin
an
ap
o
de
Via S. F
oC
aL
cial
Via Sopram V i
CAPRI
C APRI ente
e
na c
Via L A CROCE
CROCE
A
apr 2A
i 2B Ma
Via Roma term
Via ania
Tr
a g
a ra
2E
2F
Via Krupp 2D
2C
0 1500 ft
Start the tour from the terrace right m Faraglioni. The farthest is home
above the funicular station, with its to bright blue lizards found nowhere
impressive views down to Marina else on the planet. The lane down the
Grande. From here, walk past the side of the Quisisana hotel leads to
clock tower and into the famously the n Certosa di San Giacomo,
picturesque j Piazza Umberto I a semi-abandoned medieval monas-
(aka La Piazzetta), through which tery with a typical cross-barrel roof
every visitor passes at some point. and simple cloister. Above are the
A drink on the terrace of any of the panoramic terraces of the o Giar-
four celebrated cafés is a must for dini di Augusto.
some prime (and pricey) people-
watching; the little square is at its Capri’s famous Faraglioni.
best in the evening when the day-
trippers have left. The 17th-century
k Church of Santo Stefano
sits at the top of a flight of steps just
above the square and has a charac-
teristic multidomed roof. The classic
Capri passeggiata or stroll starts in
the piazzetta, passes the designer
boutiques in Via Vittorio Emanuele
and Via Camerelle, and finishes at
the end of Via Tragara where the
l Belvedere Tragara gives you
breathtaking views of the three
limestone rocks known as the
147
Capri
3 ★ Buonocuore. This place is
good for inexpensive coffee and
cakes or refreshing ice cream. It
also sells delicious pizza, sand-
wiches, and hot dishes-to-go that
make good picnic food. Via Vittorio
Emanuele 35. y 081/8377826. $.
Ac quara
Il Monastero 15 392 m Il Torone
Vateliero 377 m
Miramare 16 Punta
Imperatore Serrana 17 Barano
Ca va
Panza Fontana d'Ischia Punta d.
Where to Dine Cannuccia
Testaccio
Il Focolare 17 Punta del Pilaro
Mosaico 18 12 16 Punta
Pane e Vino 19 Punta
9 10 Marina dei S. Pancrazio
0 1 mi Capo
Ristorante Pizzeria Pirozzi 20 Chiarito Maronti
N Punta Grosso Mare Tirreno
Umberto a Mare 21 0 1 km S. Angelo
151
Ischia
olcanic Ischia has been famed for its curative waters (the
most radioactive in Europe) since ancient Greek times, and tourist
activity here still revolves around the 100 plus thermal baths. How-
ever, with a population of 60,000 and a ground surface of around
46 sq. km (18 sq. miles), there’s more to Ischia than just its spas. You
need at least 2 nights to get a feel for the place. START: Ischia Porto.
Ischia
replaced in 1036 with the present along with fountains and ponds,
pink-hued church that stands on the sculptures, an Orchid house, an avi-
square. Excavations have revealed ary, a Thai pavilion, and plenty of
the remains of the early basilica and benches for quiet contemplation
a Roman necropolis, which you can with wonderful views. There’s a
visit in the dusty old Area Archeo- small museum dedicated to Wal-
logico di Santa Restituta (y 081/ ton’s life and work, a shop and a tea
980538). Lacco Ameno is home to house. Concerts are held here in the
Ischia’s most important museum, summer. @ 11⁄2 hr.
the Museo Archeologico di Pithe-
cusae (y 081/900356), housed in
Villa Arbusto up the hill. The Greek 7 ★★ Tea House at La Mor-
tella. Here you can order a pot of
and Roman artifacts on display
real English tea and a piece of cake.
proudly include ‘Nestor’s Cup,’ a
The tea house is half way up the
kotyle vase dating from around 740
garden and has a large, shady ter-
B.C. that originated in a necropolis
race. Via Francesco Calise 39, Forio.
on Rhodes. The azure Baia di San
Montano is among the island’s best y 081/986220. $.
beaches and a marvelous place for
a refreshing swim. @ 2 hrs. 8 ★★ Forio. Lying on the west
6 ★★★ La Mortella. This coast, Forio is the largest town on
famous, exotic garden was the island and offers Ischia’s best
designed by landscapist Russell sunsets. It’s a popular resort with
Page in the mid-1950s for the Eng- excellent sandy beaches only a
lish composer Sir William Walton seagull’s spit away, good restau-
and his young Argentine wife rants, and some interesting sights
Susana. The garden, laid out in a val- to visit. Shop-lined, pedestrian
ley with steep, terraced sides, fea- Corso Umberto runs through the
tures both species from South heart of the town. About half way
America and indigenous plants along is Piazza Matteotti, a shady
Sant’Angelo.
Castello Aragonese
This little island was settled and fortified by the Greeks from
Syracusa in the 5th century B.C. and subsequently inhabited by the
Romans, the Goths, the Saracens, and many others who fixed their
coveting eyes on Naples across the bay. For the Ischians, the fortress
has been a place of refuge over the centuries from both invasion and
volcanic eruption; they fled here in 1301 when Mount Epomeo
erupted and built the ex-Cattedrale dell’Assunta in the same year,
incorporating an earlier chapel into its crypt where you can still see
fragmented frescoes by followers of Giotto. In the mid-15th century,
Alfonso of Aragon rebuilt the by-now crumbling castle and added the
causeway. By the early 18th century, the huge citadel was home to
some 2,000 families, 13 churches, and a convent. The church was
badly damaged by the British in 1809 during the Napoleonic wars,
but its ruined dome still dominates the skyline.
155
Ischia
Where To Wallow
With 103 hot water springs on the island, many of Ischia’s
hotels have their own thermal pools and onsite spas, some of which
are truly luxurious. A fun alternative to these are the ‘spa gardens,’
non-residential resorts set in extensive tropical gardens with a pri-
vate beach, which offer a range of facilities. The two best known are
the stylish Negombo (y 081/986152; www.negombo.it), just out-
side Lacco Ameno, and more traditional Poseidon (y 9087111;
www.giardiniposeidon.it) located near Forio. Both have multiple
thermal pools, a private beach, bars, and restaurants, and offer a
vast range of spa treatments (at extra cost), which include all kinds of
massages, mud treatments, and beauty routines. A slightly less
upmarket alternative is the Aphrodite Apollon (y 081/999219;
www.aphrodite.it), situated above the Maronti beach at Sant’Angelo;
if you can’t face the walk around the footpath from the village, catch
a free taxi boat from the port.
Bathers enjoying the restorative thermal waters of one of Ischia’s many spas.
156
The Amalfi Coast
Where to Stay
★★★ Albergo della Regina Terme. y 081/994722. www.manzi
Isabella Ischia’s grandest hotel terme.it. 61 units. Doubles 250–460
enjoys an enviable position on the w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed
sea and boasts a spa and three res- Nov–Easter except 26 Dec–7 Jan.
taurants. Recent restyling has left Map p 150.
period features, such as the fabu-
★★ Il Monastero The spectacu-
lous tiled floors, intact while giving
lar position of this hotel, at the top of
the place a contemporary look.
the Castello Aragonese, makes up for
Piazza Santa Restituta 1, Lacco
the lack of a pool. Bedrooms are styl-
Ameno. y 081/994322. www.
ishly spartan with panoramic views,
reginaisabella.it. 128 units. Doubles
the restaurant serves delicious
190–760 w/breakfast. AE, DC, MC,
organic food, and there’s a small spa.
V. Map p 150.
Castello Aragonese 3. y 081/992435.
★ Casa Celestino This bright, www.albergoilmonastero.it. 22 units.
contemporary Mediterranean-style Doubles 100–160 w/breakfast. AE,
small hotel sits on the road leading DC, MC, V. Map p 150.
down into Sant’Angelo. The stylish,
★★ Miramare This elegant hotel
sunny rooms all have sea-facing ter-
sits on the cliff above Sant’Angelo
races. Meals are served overlooking
overlooking Maronti beach. The
the sea. Via Chiaia di Rose 20,
pretty, modernized bedrooms have
Sant’Angelo. y 081/999213. www.
lovely views as do the wraparound
hotelcelestino.it. 20 units. Doubles
bar and restaurant terraces. There’s
175–250 w/breakfast. AE, MC, V.
a saltwater pool on the roof. Via
Map p 150.
Maddalena 29, Sant’Angelo. y 081/
★ = Hotel Continental Mare 999219. www.hotelmiramare.it. 50
The lush terraced gardens overlook- units. Doubles 260–450 w/break-
ing the sea and the two pools (one fast. AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 150.
particularly suitable for youngsters)
make this hotel, located a short hop Thermal pool at the hotel Manzi Terme,
from Ischia Porto, a good family Casamicciola.
option. The bright, modern rooms
include suites that sleep four. Via B
Cossa 25, Iscia. y 081/982577.
www.continentalmare.it. 57 units.
Doubles 130–240 w/breakfast.
AE, DC, MC, V. Map p 150.
★★★ Hotel Manzi Terme The
public spaces at this smart, luxuri-
ous hotel in the heart of Casamicci-
ola have a nouveau Pompeiian look
while the bedrooms are more clas-
sic. There’s a stylish, Oriental-style
spa, two pools (including a large
indoor thermal pool), an award-
winning restaurant (Mosaico, see
p 157), and exceptionally helpful
staff. Piazza Bagni 4, Casamicciola
157
Where to Dine
Where to Dine
★★ = Il Focolare TRADITIONAL
ISCHITAN If you’re fed up with fish,
head to the hills above Casamicciola
to this rustic place that serves the
best coniglio all’Ischitana (rabbit
stewed with tomatoes) on the
island. There’s also artichoke lasa-
gne and chargrilled steak. Via Cre-
tajo al Crocifisso 3. y 081/902944.
www.trattoriailfocolare.it. Entrees
8–14. AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
Fri–Sun, dinner Mon, Tues, & Thurs.
Map p 150.
★★★ Mosaico GOURMET Dinner
at this elegant, upscale restaurant is
an extraordinary experience, espe-
cially if you book the chef’s table in
the kitchen. Chef Nino di Costanzo
transforms local tastes and culinary
traditions into something truly spec-
tacular, a visual as well as a gastro-
nomic feast. Hotel Manzi Terme,
Fabulous fish at Umberto a Mare.
Piazza Bagni 4, Casamicciola Terme.
y 081/994722. www.manziterme.it. off with a plate of mixed fried appe-
Entrees 25–32. AE, DC, MC, V. Din-
tizers such as the potato, cheese,
ner daily. Closed Nov–Easter except
and ham-stuffed crochette (deep-
26 Dec–7 Jan. Map p 150.
fried croquettes). Via Seminario 51,
★ Pane e Vino TRADITIONAL & Ischia Ponte. y 081/983217. Entrees
PIZZA Of the many restaurants 4–15. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & dinner
strung out along Ischia’s main port, daily. Map p 150.
this place, with its little waterside
★★★ Umberto a Mare FISH
terrace, stands out. The fish choices
For a fabulous dinner to the back-
(such as linguine with scampi and
drop of an Ischian sunset, book a
fritto misto (deep-fried seafood)) are
table on the terrace at Umberto’s.
tasty, as is the pizza; there are some
The mainly fish-based menu varies
meat choices too and a good wine
with the daily catch; try spaghetti
list. Via Porto 24, Ischia Porto.
with mullet roe and deep-fried giant
y 081/991046. Entrees 7–18. MC, prawns with tangy lemon and mint
V. Lunch & dinner daily, closed Tues
salad. Great wines too. Via Soccorso
Nov–Mar. Map p 150.
2, Forio. y 081/997171. www.
★ = Ristorante Pizzeria umbertoamare.it. Entrees 20–27.
Pirozzi FISH/PIZZA Although this AE, MC, V. Lunch & dinner Thurs–
place serves good fish and seafood, Mon, dinner Wed. Map p 150.
I recommend the tasty pizzas. Start
158
The Amalfi Coast
1 Marina Grande
2 GM Bar
Punta Isolotto
3 Castello d’Avalos di Vivara Punta Serra Capo Bove
dell’Alaca Cala del
4 Terra Murata Pozo
5 Abbazia di San Michele 8 Vecchio
6 Corricella 10
Procida
7 Chiaia
Golfo di Punta dei
8 Vivara Pioppeto
Genito COTTIMO
9 Ciracciello 9 ro
CIRACCIO V Fa
10 Cala del Pozzo Vecchio 12 Lido di ia Sa
lette d el
11 Bar Grottino Punta della Procida Vi Via
r
aG
Palombara
ou
.d
av
aP STARZA
C
Where to Stay & Dine Marina ro
Chiaiolella Cen t ane cid
Fish Bone 12 a Via
2
Hotel La Vigna 13 L’Olmo Por to
1
La Casa sul Mare 14 15 7
La Conchiglia 15 SOLCHIARO Seno del Procida 11
Carbongo
La Gorgonia 16
Cala S. 16
a
Antonio 6
Raj
Marina
Corricella
Via
0 1500 ft 14
4
3 13
0 350 m
Punta Pizzaco 5
Punta Solchiaro Punta dei
Monaci
159
Procida
ith 11,000 inhabitants and a surface area of only 3.75
sq. km (1.45 sq. miles), Procida is the most densely popu-
lated island in the Mediterranean. Even so, it’s a gentle, low-key sort
of place (except during July and August) with its own subtle charms,
and makes a refreshing change from the glitz and glamour of neigh-
boring Capri and Ischia. START: Marina Grande.
Getting Around
The best way to get around the island is by scooter; be brave
and hire one from General Rentals, Marina Grande (y 081/8101132).
Procida’s traffic system is based on a principal 1-way road with a
network of smaller, painfully narrow lanes serving the more remote
locations. Many of these are lined with high walls, and so it’s diffi-
cult to get an overall impression of the place from the road. Across
the island, tantalizing glimpses are to be had through wrought iron
gates of exotic gardens, lemon groves, and small vineyards.
160
The Amalfi Coast
A Bit of History
Procida was first settled by the Mycenaeans between the 15th
and 16th centuries b.c. In the Middle Ages, it fell victim to a series of
violent Saracen raids that forced the entire population to retreat to
the fortified village of Terra Murata at the highest point on the island.
The island flourished in the 16th century; you can still see the gra-
cious villas built as holiday homes by visitors from the mainland and
the elegant palazzi constructed by prospering shipbuilders. The
Bourbon rulers took a shine to Procida and after they acquired the
Castello d’Avalos in 1744, they turned the island into a Royal hunting
reserve. More recent history has brought strong associations with
the sea: flourishing shipyards and an important Naval training school
in the 19th century, and a fishing industry that still exists today.
Procida
type of rat that walks on it back legs.
Vivara (now a nature reserve) is joined
to the mainland by a bridge, but at
the time of going to press, it was
closed for repairs. It should be
reopening in the not too distant
future; ask at the tourist office for
details. @ 1 hr. Free admission.
9 ★ = Ciracciello. The island’s
longest and most popular beach
stretches out to the east of Vivara.
With its dark, volcanic sand, Ciracci-
ello offers both stretches of spaggia
libera (free beach) and several
stabilimenti balneari where you can
hire sunbeds and umbrellas. The Picturesque Corricella.
bars and restaurants strung out
along the sand make a great spot which make magical bathing spots.
for a sundowner or an early evening In summer, there’s a bar here with a
pizza. @ 2 hr. talkative gray parrot; a great spot
0 Cala del Pozzo Vecchio. On for a cold beer. @ 1 hr.
the uncrowded eastern part of the
island, jutting Punta Serra separates
Ciracciello from Cala del Pozzo Vec-
! Bar Grottino. Before you head
back on the ferry, call in here, one
chio, a delightful small beach with of the island’s best gelaterie, for
crystal-clear water, which is also delicious homemade ice cream and
known as the beach from Il Postino fabulously refreshing lemon granità.
for obvious reasons. Locals scram- Via Roma 121, Marina Grande.
ble over the rocks to the right to y 081/8967787. $.
reach a series of pretty coves,
Before You Go
NAPLES’ AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES & MONTHLY RAINFALL
Getting There
By Plane Other major airlines flying into
Campania is served by Naples’ Naples include British Airways (www.
Capodichino airport (y 081/ ba.com), Easyjet (www.easyjet.com),
7896259; www.gesac.it). Only Euro- Air France (www.airfrance.com), and
fly (y 091/5007704; www.eurofly. Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com).
it) offers transatlantic nonstop
flights to Naples from New York. Transport from and to the
From elsewhere in North America Airport
and from Australia and New Zea- About 7km (4 miles) northeast of the
land, you have to fly first into Rome city center, Capodichino airport is
or Milan and take a short connecting only 15 minutes away from the main
flight. You can also fly nonstop into train station and 20 minutes from the
Naples from most major European ferry and hydrofoil docks. The easiest
airports and from all Italian ones. Ali- way to get into town is by taking a
talia (www.alitalia.com) flies regularly taxi directly to your hotel: the flat rate
from Rome and Milan into Naples. for Naples is 12.50. If you don’t
If you land in Rome, I recommend have much luggage, the Alibus shut-
catching the train: from Rome’s Leon- tle bus (y 800/639525; www.anm.it)
ardo da Vinci airport at Fiumicino, an is a cheaper option. Buses leave
express rail service runs to Roma Ter- every 20 minutes from outside the
mini station which takes 30 minutes arrivals terminal and stop at the Stazi-
and leaves every half-hour. Tickets one Centrale in Piazza Garibaldi. Tick-
cost 9.50 one-way. From Termini, ets cost 3. Higher-end hotels on the
catch one of the frequent, fast Euro- Amalfi Coast can arrange transfers
star or Alta Velocità trains to Naples; direct from and to the airport without
journey time is about 90 minutes. For having to pass through Naples.
timetables, check www.trenitalia.it.
From Rome Ciampino airport, catch By Car
the Terravision coach (www.terra If you arrive in Naples by car, I rec-
vision.it) to Termini station; journey ommend getting to your hotel as
time is 40 minutes. quickly as possible, leaving your bags
and parking (the hotel will help you
167
Getting Around
with this, but you will probably have Naples, you can catch a taxi to your
to pay). Don’t touch your car again hotel or, if you haven’t much lug-
until you want to leave; for reasons gage, use the Metro or a bus (see
NOT to drive in the city, see ‘Getting ‘Getting Around,’ below).
Around,’ below. Naples lies on a
highly complicated system of high- By Boat
ways, but is connected to Caserta, Naples is the main port of central
Rome, and Florence to the north by Italy, receiving daily ships and fer-
the A1 autostrada, to Salerno, ries from international destinations.
Cosenza, and Reggio Calabria in the A number of cruise-ship companies
south by the A3 autostrada, and with sail to Naples, especially from spring
Bari on the southeast coast by the well into fall. The city is also linked
A16 autostrada. Note that all auto- to other Italian ports such as
strade (highways, signed in blue) are Cagliari, Palermo, and the Aeolian
subject to tolls. There’s a toll calcula- Islands. Arriving in Naples by ship is
tor at www.autostrade.it. a magnificent experience and the
best approach to Campania. You’ll
By Train land at the Stazione Marittima, only
Most trains from other major desti- steps from the Maschio Angioino in
nations arriving in Naples pull into the heart of the historic district.
Napoli Centrale, the city’s principal From here, you can walk or catch a
station in Piazza Garibaldi. From taxi to your destination. Ferries and
here, you can catch a connection to hydrofoils also provide invaluable
Sorrento or, via the Circumvesuvi- public transport between Naples,
ana line, to Herculaneum, Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast, and the islands.
and Sorrento. If you’re staying in See ‘Getting Around’ for details.
Getting Around
By Car Car Rental
It’s total madness to consider hiring To rent a car in Italy, a driver
a car for use in Naples. The local must have a valid driver’s license
driving methods are anarchic, traffic obtained at least a year before the
is a nightmare, and parking more trip and a valid passport. The mini-
so. So don’t even think about it. A mum age for renting an economy
car, however, is a valid way of tour- car is 21 and 25 for larger models.
ing the region, but be warned that Most rental companies will not rent
in high season (May–September) the a car to drivers older than 75. Insur-
coastal roads on the Sorrentine pen- ance for theft and collision damage
insula and Amalfi Coast are choked is compulsory and can be pur-
with nose-to-tail traffic. Ischia (and chased at any reputable rental firm.
to a lesser extent Procida) has simi- You will also need a valid credit
lar traffic problems and you aren’t card. Besides the major interna-
allowed to take a car onto Capri. So tional rental companies—Avis
weigh up the pros and cons carefully (www.avis.com), Budget (www.
in advance. Note that all highways budget.com), and Hertz (www.hertz.
(autostrade) in Italy are toll roads, com)—other companies specializing
and fuel prices are quite high. in European car rentals are Auto
168
The Savvy Traveler
Europe (www.autoeurope.com) and
Europe by Car (www.europebycar. Transport Tip
com). One ticket covers all. A single ticket
costing 1.10 buys you 90 minutes
By Taxi of journeys on the metro, bus, and
Taxis in Naples are safe and relatively funicular railway. So, if you need to
cheap. However, beware unofficial catch a metro and the funicular to
cabs that operate in the city; they reach your destination, you can
invariably overcharge unwary tour- use the same ticket as long as the
ists. Authorized white taxis can be total journey takes no longer than
picked up at signposted ranks (rather 90 minutes. Stamp your ticket at
than flagged down on the street) or the beginning of the first journey.
ordered by phone (y 081/5525252,
081/5515151, 081/5606666). Your
hotel or restaurant will always be By Bus
happy to phone for a cab when Naples’ bus system is operated by
needed. Check that the meter is on ANM (y 800/639525, 081/7631111;
at the start of your journey. www.anm.it) and is comprehensive
but complicated; the bus map looks
By Metro like a plate of multicolored spaghetti.
Metronapoli (y 800/568866; www. Buses are often desperately slow
metro.napoli.it) operates the com- and usually crowded, but you may
plex system of under- and over- have to use them to reach areas of
ground trains that serve Naples, the city not covered by the much
undoubtedly the fastest way of get- faster Metro. The only way to reach
ting around the city. Metro stations the Museo di Capodimonte, for exam-
are marked by a large red M; tickets ple, is by bus; the same applies to
are on sale at tabacchi (tobacco- Posillipo and Mergellina. Crowded
nists) and stations and cost 1.10; buses are a gift to pickpockets; keep a
they are valid for 90 minutes and tight hand on your belongings. Buy
can also be used on buses and your ticket before you board from
funicular railways, so you can take tabacchi or newsstands; board the
several journeys within that time. bus through the back door and stamp
You must stamp your ticket as you your ticket in one of the machines.
pass through the turnstiles. Work is
still in progress on a new, state-of- By Train
the-art Metro system linking the The train is an excellent way to cover
suburbs with the city center. any distance in Campania and the Ital-
ian Ferrovia dello Stato (FS for short)
By Funicular Rail train network is very efficient and
There are four funicular railways in comparatively cheap. The high speed
Naples that transport you effort- Eurostar and Alta Velocità trains cost
lessly up and down various hills. more than Intercity, regionali, or locali
They are wonderfully old-fashioned trains; contrary to popular belief, they
but do the job. They are called Cen- also run on time (mostly).You must
trale, Chiaia, Mergellina, and Monte- reserve a seat on board before you
santo. They operate the same ticket travel; you can do this up to 15 min-
system as the buses and metros utes before departure via the website
(see above); buy tickets in the or at a ticket booth in the station. For
machines at the stations. fares and timetables, consult Trenita-
lia (y 892021 from anywhere in Italy;
www.trenitalia.it).
169
Fast Facts
More local to Naples, Sorrento easily take day trips. During the sum-
and the Vesuvian attractions of Her- mer months when the roads are
culaneum and Pompeii are accessi- often choked with traffic, a boat is
ble on the Circumvesuviana line often the quickest and certainly the
(www.vesuviana.it), which has its most pleasant way to travel.
own terminal in Corso Garbaldi but Timetables vary during the year
is also accessible through the Stazi- with most crossings scheduled in
one Centrale. Trains to Pozzuoli and high season; some routes (between
the Campi Flegrei are operated by Ischia and Capri, for example) only
Ferrovia Cumana (y 800/001616; operate between May and Septem-
www.sepsa.it) and run from Piazza ber. Timetables (orari) are published
Montesanto. each morning in the Il Mattino news-
paper, or consult www.campania-
By Boat trasporti.it. Hydrofoils depart from
Car-carrying ferries (traghetti) and the Molo Beverello dock in front of
faster hydrofoils (aliscafi) are essen- the Castel Nuovo in Naples, while
tial modes of transport in this sea- ferries leave from the Calata Porta
bound area of Campania. A complex di Massa just to the north. You can
network of routes, operated by some buy tickets on the spot; a single
half-dozen different companies, links hydrofoil ticket from Naples to
the islands of Ischia, Procida and Ischia or Capri costs 16. Note that
Capri, the Sorrentine Peninsula, and not all ticket offices in smaller ports
the seaside towns on the Amalfi accept credit cards. Ferries are
Coast, with Naples. Journey times cheaper than hydrofoils and less
are short, which means that you can affected by bad weather.
Fast Facts
APARTMENT RENTALS If you’re plan- PLUS networks which span the
ning a longer stay in the Naples globe. ATMs are widespread in
area, renting an apartment works Naples and even in smaller towns in
out cheaper. Rent a Bed (Vico San the area. Watch out for charges lev-
Carlo alle Mortelle 14, y 081/ ied by your home bank.
417721; www.rentabed.com) lists
apartments throughout the area BUSINESS HOURS Banks are gener-
covered in this guide. They also list ally open Monday through Friday
B&Bs. 8:30am to 1:30pm and 2:30 to 4pm.
Shops are usually open Monday
AREA CODES 081 for the province of through Saturday from 8 or 9am to
Naples (including Sorrento, Pozzuoli, 1pm and 4:30 or 5pm to 7:30 or
Ischia, and Capri); 089 for the prov- 8pm, with one extra half-day closing
ince of Salerno (including the Amalfi per week; the day varies from place
Coast). Even calls within the same to place. A growing number of
area must include the area code. shops in tourist areas stay open dur-
ing the lunch break and on Sundays.
ATMS The easiest method of get-
ting instant cash away from home is CAR HIRE See ‘Car Rental’ in Get-
from an ATM, in Italy called a Banco- ting Around (p 167).
mat. Look out for the Cirrus and
170
See ‘Emergencies.’
The Savvy Traveler
DOCTORS For significant but non-life-
threatening ailments, you can walk
DRUGSTORES Farmacie (drugstores
into most hospitals and get speedy
or pharmacies) often have a green care—with no questions about
neon cross above their doors. They insurance policies, no forms to fill
keep normal shops hours (see ‘Busi- out, and no fees to pay. Obviously
ness Hours,’ above), but in larger it’s still crucial to carry an
towns, Sunday and all-night open- appropriate travel health insur-
ings operate on a rotation system. ance policy. EU citizens should
Out of hours, the address of the take an EHIC card to be certain of
nearest open pharmacy will be dis- free reciprocal health care; forms
played on a poster outside. Lan- are available in the UK from Post
guage tip: Most minor ailments start Offices or at www.ehic.org.uk. Most
with the phrase mal di, so you can hospitals in the Naples area will be
just say ‘Mahl dee’ and point to the able to find someone who speaks
sore bit (throat, head, stomach, etc.) English.
Erboristerie, or herbalist shops, sell-
ing traditional herbal remedies are HOLIDAYS Italian public holidays
quite common. are as follows: 1 January, New
Year’s Day; 6 January, Epiphany
ELECTRICITY Italy works on a 220V (La Befana); Easter Monday (Pas-
wiring system. Anyone using 120V quetta); 25 April, Liberation Day;
appliances needs to obtain a trans- 1 May, Labour Day; 2 June, Republic
former. Italian plugs have two Day; 15 August, Feast of the
prongs that are round, not flat; both Assumption (Ferragosto); 1 Novem-
adaptor plugs and transformers can ber, All Saints’ Day; 8 December,
be bought at the airport or at a local Feast of the Immaculate Concep-
electrical or hardware store (Elettric- tion; 25 December, Christmas Day;
ità or Casalinghi). 26 December, Boxing Day (Santo
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES All
Stefano). In addition, Naples virtu-
embassies are located in Rome, but ally closes down on 19 September
the following countries have consul- for the Feast of San Gennaro, the
ates in Naples: US (Piazza della city’s patron saint. Many shops,
Repubblica 2, y 081/5838111; businesses, and restaurants in
www.usis.it); Canada (Via Carducci Naples close for at least part of
29, y 081/401338; www.canada. August.
it); UK (Via Crispi 122, y 081/ INTERNET In larger cities and
663511 or 081/663589; www. towns, Internet access is plentiful
britain.it). and most hotels now offer at least
EMERGENCIES Dial y 113 or 112
an Internet point for guests’ use.
for the police; y 118 for an ambu- WiFi is becoming increasingly com-
lance; and y 115 for a fire. For mon in hotels too, although you
road emergencies dial y 803-116. may have to pay for access. You will
find plenty of Internet points and
HOSPITALS The most central hospi- cafés in Naples and larger towns.
tal in Naples that provides 24-hour Internet points in Naples include:
emergency care (pronto soccorso) is Internet Bar (Piazza Bellini 74,
the Policlinico, Via Sergio Pansini y 081/295237); Clic Net (Via
(y 081/7461111), but a (less cen- Toledo 393, y 081/5529370); City
tral) better option is the Cardarelli, Hall Café (Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Via Cardarelli 9, Vomero Alto 137a, y 081/669400); Internet
(y 081/7471111).
171
Fast Facts
Napoli (Piazza Cavour 146, y 081/ MONEY In January 2002, Italy
298877). switched from the lira to the euro.
Coins come in denominations of 1,
LANGUAGE Italian is the local lan- 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents, and 1 and
guage, but English is generally 2; notes come in denominations of
understood at most attractions, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200,
hotels, and restaurants that cater to and 500. Exchange rates fluctuate
visitors, as well as in many pharma- daily; to get the best rate, obtain
cies. The Italians are very apprecia- cash from ATM machines (banco-
tive of any foreigner who attempts mat) or pay with your credit card
even a few words in their language; where possible. Traveler’s checks,
see ‘Useful Phrases,’ below. although safe, are now almost obso-
lete. Try and avoid changing money
LAUNDROMATS Public laundromats
at an exchange booth (cambio) or at
(lavanderia a gettoni) are extremely
a hotel; you will get a much better
rare, but you can drop your laundry
rate at a bank or ATM—but check
at most tintoria (dry cleaners) to
overseas withdrawal fees before
have it washed, ironed, and folded.
you leave home. All but the most
This is much cheaper than using
modest restaurants and hotels
hotel laundry services.
accept plastic these days, although
LOST PROPERTY Contact credit card some don’t take American Express
companies the minute you realize or Diner’s.
your card has been stolen or lost.
NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES The
The following Italian numbers are
International Herald Tribune and
free: Visa y 800/819014; Master-
USA Today are widely available,
card y 800/870866; American
even in smaller towns. UK daily
Express y 800/872000. If you lose
newspapers and the Sundays such
other valuables or suspect that
as the Times, Guardian, Telegraph,
they’ve been stolen, go to the near-
and Sunday Times are available
est police station to make a state-
from larger newsstands in Naples
ment (denuncia), which is required
and, in high season, from central
for insurance purposes. For luggage
newsstands in Sorrento, Positano,
lost on a flight, go to the ufficio
Amalfi, and Ischia. Note that these
bagagli smarriti (lost luggage office)
arrive the day after publication.
at the airport.
Time and Newsweek are also widely
MAIL The mail service in Italy has available and larger newsstands
improved enormously in recent stock US and UK editions of glossies
years. Postcards (not in regular let- such as Vogue, Elle, Vanity Fair, and
ter envelopes) pay a reduced rate, Cosmopolitan.
but are also the slowest. Now, all The most widely read Italian
letters and postcards are delivered newspapers are the Milan-based
using the first class Posta Prioritaria Corriere della Sera and Rome-based
service. Deliveries to the US should La Repubblica, both of which have
(and generally do) arrive within 4–8 Naples sections carrying events list-
days and within the EU but outside ings. For useful practical and tourist
Italy within 3 days. Postcards and information plus listings, pick up a
letters to the US and Canada weigh- copy of the free, bimonthly Qui Nap-
ing up to 20 grams (0.7 ounces) cost oli (published by the tourist office
0.85; within Europe they cost and also in English); for nightlife list-
0.65. You can buy stamps at all ings, look out for biweekly Napoli
post offices and at tabacchi stores. Zero (Italian only).
172
The Savvy Traveler
PARKING Parking is a major prob- comes into effect in Italy each year
lem in Naples and in most of the from the last Sunday in March to the
area described in this guide. If last Sunday in October.
you’re driving, note that parking
spaces marked by blue lines carry TIPPING Tipping in Italy is discre-
a fee payable at street parking tionary and not expected in many
meters. Never park in front of a sign cases but is, however, appreciated
saying passo carrabile, or in areas when service merits it. In hotels, it’s
with signs saying sosta vietata or customary to tip the porter for carry-
zona rimozione. Disabled parking ing your bags or for parking your car
places are marked in yellow and are and the maid who cleans your room.
free (bring your badge from home). Anything from 5–10 is fine; more
In Naples, unofficial attendants will to the maid if you stay longer. Res-
offer to keep an eye on your car taurants may add 10–15% service to
while it’s parked. Though this is your bill; it should be listed under
technically illegal, it’s a system that servizio. If in doubt, ask ‘Èincluso il
works. Tip them 1 when you col- servizio?’ If it isn’t, add it yourself but
lect the car. leave cash on the table. If it is, leave
a few coins for the poor waiter if you
SAFETY Naples has received a lot feel you’ve had good service. Taxi
of negative press in recent years, drivers will be happy if you round up
but although petty crime such as the fare one or two euros, but won’t
bag snatching and pickpocketing is make a fuss if you don’t.
common, you’re extremely unlikely
to encounter violent crime. Pick- TOILETS Airports, train stations,
pockets and bag snatchers are par- museums, and major archaeological
ticularly active in tourist areas and areas and attractions all have toi-
prey on the unwary, so keep your lets, often with attendants who
eyes open and take precautions. expect to be tipped a nominal fee
Leave expensive-looking jewelry and (0.50 is fine). Public toilets are a
watches in the hotel safe. Carry bit of a rarity in Naples. If you’re
your bag across your chest and desperate, go into a bar; they usu-
don’t hold lots of cash or credit ally let you use the facilities. Usually
cards. Don’t keep wallets in back they’re designated WC (water
pockets. Keep handbags closed and closet) and bear international sym-
never leave them on the back of a bols or the signs donne/SIGNORE
chair in a restaurant or bar. Be par- (women) and uomini/SIGNORI (men).
ticularly careful in crowds. And It’s a good idea to carry tissues; toi-
don’t worry! let paper is not always included.
SMOKING Since the Italian anti- TOURIST OFFICES Naples: Ente Pro-
smoking laws came into force, vinciale del Turismo, Piazza dei Mar-
smoking is banned in enclosed pub- tiri 58 (y 081/4107211; www.
lic spaces, except those with sepa- eptnapoli.info), open Mon–Fri 9am–
rate ventilated smoking areas. It’s 2pm; Azienda Autonoma di Sog-
also banned on public transport. giorno, Via San Carlo 9 (y 081/
These rules aren’t always respected, 402394; www.inaples.it), open
especially in anarchic Naples. Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 9:30am–2pm &
3–7pm, Nov–Mar Mon–Sat 9am–
TIME ZONE Campania is 6 hours 1:30pm & 4:30–6:30pm; Piazza Gésu
ahead of US Eastern Standard Time Nuovo (y 081/5523328), open
and 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–2pm.
Mean Time. Daylight-saving time
173
A Brief History
Sorrento: Via Luigi di Maio 35 Ischia & Procida: Via A Sogliuzzo
(y 081/8074033; www.sorrento 72, Ischia Porto (y 081/5074211;
tourism.com or www.infosorrento. www.infoischiaprocida.it), open Apr–
it), open May–Sept daily 8:30am– Oct Mon–Sat 9am–2pm & 3–8pm.
6:30pm, Oct–Apr Mon–Sat
8:30am–4pm. Capri: Piazza Umberto I, Capri
(y 081/8370634; www.capri
Positano: Via del Saracino 4 tourism.com), open Apr–Sept Mon–
(y 089/875067; www.azienda Sat 8:30am–8:30pm, Nov–Mar
turismopositano.it), open June–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 3:30–6:30pm.
Mon–Sat 8am–2pm & 3–8pm, Oct–
May Mon–Sat 8am–2pm. WATER In restaurants, most locals
drink mineral water (either fizzy gas-
Ravello: Via Roma 18b (y 089/ sata or still non-gassata) with their
857096; www.ravellotime.it), open meals. However, tap water is safe
Mon–Sat 9am–7pm. everywhere, as are public drinking
fountains. Unsafe sources and foun-
Amalfi: Corso delle Repubblica tains will be marked acqua non
Marinare 27 (y 089/871107; www. potabile. If in doubt, ask the locals;
amalfitouristoffice.it), open May–Oct they’ll give you a straight answer.
Mon–Sat 8:30am–1pm & 3–6pm,
Sun 8:30–1pm; Nov–Apr closed Sat
afternoon and Sun.
A Brief History
1734 The kingdom of Naples passes the city voted overwhelmingly
to Bourbon rule; Don Carlos to keep the monarchy. Vittorio
enters the city in triumph and the Emanuele sails from Naples into
following year is crowned King exile.
Carlo III of the Kingdom of Sicily.
1950S Naples grows explosively,
Naples is reinstated as capital and
with 80,000 dwellings built within
thrives intellectually and culturally.
a decade, many of them without
1737 Carlo builds the San Carlo planning permission. Corruption
opera house. and crime are rife: Naples has
reached its blackest hour.
1748 Excavations are started in
Pompeii. 1980 A violent earthquake kills 3,000.
Useful Phrases
ENGLISH ITALIAN PRONUNCIATION
Monday Lunedì loo-nay-dee
Tuesday Martedì mart-ay-dee
Wednesday Mercoledì mehr-cohl-ay-dee
Thursday Giovedì joh-vay-dee
Friday Venerdì ven-nehr-dee
Saturday Sabato sah-bah-toh
Sunday Domenica doh-mehn-nee-kah
January Gennaio jehn-NAH-yoh
February Febbraio fehb-BRAH-yoh
March Marzo MAHR-tso
April Aprile ah-PREE-leh
May Maggio MAHD-joh
June Giugno JEWN-nyo
July Luglio LOOL-lyo
August Agosto ah-GOHS-toh
September Settembre seht-TEHM-breh
October Ottobre oht-TOH-breh
November Novembre noh-VEHM-breh
December Dicembre dee-CHEHM-breh
Numbers
1 uno (oo-noh)
2 due (doo-ay)
3 tre (tray)
4 quattro (kwah-troh)
5 cinque (cheen-kway)
6 sei (say)
7 sette (set-tay)
8 otto (oh-toh)
9 nove (noh-vay)
10 dieci (dee-ay-chee)
11 undici (oon-dee-chee)
20 venti (vehn-tee)
21 ventuno (vehn-toon-oh)
22 venti due (vehn-tee doo-ay)
30 trenta (trayn-tah)
40 quaranta (kwah-rahn-tah)
50 cinquanta (cheen-kwan-tah)
60 sessanta (sehs-sahn-tah)
70 settanta (seht-tahn-tah)
80 ottanta (oht-tahn-tah)
90 novanta (noh-vahnt-tah)
100 cento (chen-toh)
1,000 mille (mee-lay)
5,000 cinque mila (cheen-kway mee-lah)
10,000 dieci mila (dee-ay-chee mee-lah)
178
Index
Art, 72 Bruno Acampora store
Index
See also Accommoda-
in churches and cathe-
drals, 18, 19, 33–34,
38–41
(Naples), 72
Buses, 24, 57, 120, 136, 147,
166, 168
Museo Archeologico Business hours, 169
tions and Restaurant (Naples), 29–31
indexes, below. Museobottega della C
Tarsialignea (Sor- Cacace Chapel (Naples), 35
A rento), 98, 127 Café Pansa (Amalfi), 102
Abbazia di San Michele Museo del Corallo (Rav- Cala del Pozzo Vecchio
(Procida), 160 ello), 141 (Procida), 161
Air travel, 166 Museo di Capodimonte Campania Art Card, 15
Albergo dei Poveri (Naples), 21, 42–45 Campi Flegrei, 24–26
(Naples), 69 Stazioni dell’Arte Capodichino airport, 166
Al San Domingo (Ravello), (Naples), 53–54 Capo Miseno, 27
140 Associazione Alessandro Cappella del Crocifisso
Amalfi, 102–103, 106, Scarlatti (Naples), 85 (Amalfi), 135
134–136 ATMs, 169 Cappella della Pietà dei
Amalfi Coast, 4, 96–106, Atrani, 106, 136 Turchini (Naples), 84, 85
124–162 Cappella Piccolomini
Capri, 144–149 B (Naples), 37
cities and islands, Bacoli, 27 Cappella Sansevero (Naples),
124–162 Baia, 25–26, 87 19–20, 39
favorite moments in, Baia di San Montano (Ischia), Capri, 99, 102, 106, 144–149
2, 4 153 Capri Town, 145
full-day tours, 96–106 Baptistery of San Giovanni in Caracciolo del Sole chapel
history of, 173–175 Fonte (Naples), 34 (Naples), 33, 47
Ischia, 150–157 Bar Anna (Paestum), 120 Car hire, 169
Procida, 158–162 Bar Carlisle (Ischia), 151 Car rentals, 167–168
Ravello, 140–143 Bar Grottino (Procida), 161 Casa dei Cervi (Hercula-
Sorrento, 124–129 Bar Risacca (Atrani), 136 neum), 115–116
between Sorrento and Bars, 21, 85, 86, 103, 119 Casa dei Vettii (Pompeii), 111
Salerno, 130–139 Bar Solfatara (Pozzuoli), 23 Casa del Atrio a Mosaico
strategies for seeing, Basilica (Paestum), 121 (Herculaneum), 116
6–8 Basilica di San Paolo Mag- Casa del Bel Cortile (Hercula-
Amusement park, 59 giore (Naples), 34 neum), 117
Anacapri, 99, 148 Basilica di Sant’Antonino Casa del Fauno (Pompeii),
Anfiteatro (Paestum), 122 (Sorrento), 127 30, 111
Anfiteatro (Pompeii), Basilica di Santa Restituta Casa del Minandro (Pom-
112, 113 (Naples), 34, 49 peii), 112
Anfiteatro Flavio (Pozzuoli), Baths Casa del Poeta Tragico
24–25, 26 ancient, 110–112, (Pompeii), 111
Antiche Terme Comunali 116–117 Casa del Tremezzo di Legno
(Ischia), 151 thermal, 4, 151, 152, 155 (Herculaneum), 116
Antiques, 72 Battistero di San Giovanni in Casa di Nettuno e Anfitrite
Apartment rentals, 169 Fonte (Naples), 48 (Herculaneum), 117
Aphrodite Apollon B&Bs, 91, 92, 94, 129 Casamicciola Terme (Ischia),
(Sant’Angelo), 155 Belvedere Tragara (Capri), 152
Aquarium (Naples), 58, 59, 65 99, 146 Casa Rossa (Anacapri), 148
Archaeological Museum Berevino bar (Naples), 36, 85 Castel dell’Ovo (Naples),
(Naples), 110 Bicycle rental, 159 65–66
Arco Naturale Walk (Capri), Blue Grotto (Anacapri), 99, Castello Aragonese (Ischia),
4, 102, 147, 149 148 25, 151–152, 154, 156
Area Archeologico di Santa Blue Ribbon road, 4, 128 Castello d’Avalos (Procida),
Restituta (Ischia), 153 Boats, 7, 98, 133, 145, 155, 105, 159, 160
Area codes, 169 166, 167, 169 Castel Nuovo (Naples), 12
Around Midnight club Borgo Marinari (Naples), 66 Castel Sant’Elmo (Naples),
(Naples), 86 Bosco di Capodimonte 14, 18
(Naples), 45 Catacombe di San Gaudioso
Botanical gardens, 47, 68–69 (Naples), 54
Bourbon Street club Catacombe di San Gennaro
(Naples), 84, 86 (Naples), 47, 54, 55
179
Index
Cattedrale dell’Assunta Climate, 164, 165 Forio, 153–154
(Ischia), 152, 154 Collana pool (Naples), 84, 87 Forum (Paestum), 121
Cava Scura (Ischia), 155 Conca dei Marini, 102, 134 Frette (Naples), 73, 74
Cave of the Sibyl (Cuma), 27 Consulates, 170 Full-day tours
Caves, 27, 133, 134, 148, 155 Corricella, 105, 160 one day in Naples,
Centro Sub Campi Flegrei Corso Umberto (Forio), 153 10–15
(Naples), 84, 87 Cruise ships, 167 seven days on Amalfi
Ceramics, 73, 74, 137 Cuisine, Italian, 8, 162 Coast, 100–103
Certosa di San Giacomo ten days on Amalfi
(Capri), 99, 146 D Coast, 104–106
Certosa di San Martino Dance, 85, 86 three days in Naples,
(Naples), 14, 18, 41, 59 Day trips, 108–122 22–27
Cetara, 103, 106, 136, 137 Herculaneum, 114–117 three days on Amalfi
Chairlifts, 148 Paestum, 120–122 Coast, 96–99
Chapel of San Gennaro Pompeii, 108–113 two days in Naples,
(Naples), 14 Vesuvius, 118–119 16–21
Chapel to St. Bruno and Decumani (Naples), 14, 60–63 Funicular rail, 18, 99, 145, 168
Giuseppe Sammartino Dining, 8, 76, 77. See also
(Naples), 37 Restaurant Index G
Chiaia, 84, 86, 160 Disney Store (Naples), 57, 58 Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos
Children, activities for, Diving, 87 Stigliano (Naples), 49
56–59 Doll’s Hospital (Naples), Gardens, 47, 68–69, 128,
in Amalfi, 102–103 57, 62 132, 142, 153
in Cetara, 136, 137 Driving, 7, 24, 98, 136, 147, Gay clubs, 84
in Chiaia, 160 166–167 Gelaterias, 12, 34, 54, 76,
in Ciracciello, 161 Drugstores, 170 125, 128, 161
at Emerald Grotto, Duomo (Naples), 14, 34, 49 General Rentals (Procida),
133, 134 Duomo (Ravello), 103, 159
at Herculaneum, 97–98 140–141 Gesù Nuovo (Naples), 12–13,
in Ischia, 105, 151–152 Duomo dei Santi Filippo e Gia- 36–37, 61
in Naples, 13–15, como (Sorrento), 98, 125 Giardini di Augusto (Capri),
18–20, 23–27, 47, Duomo di Sant’Andrea 146
52–54, 65–66 (Amalfi), 102, 135 GM Bar (Procida), 159
in Paestum, 106 Gran Caffè Aragonese
in Pompeii, 101 (Naples), 21
in Positano, 98–99,
E
Edenlandia funfair Gran Caffè Gambrinus
102, 131 (Naples), 11, 67, 84
(Naples), 59
in Procida, 105 Grotta Azzurra (Anacapri),
Ekklesiasterion (Paestum),
in Sant’Angelo, 154, 155 99, 148
121
in Sorrento, 98, 101, Grotta dello Smeraldo, 102,
Electricity, 170
125, 128 133, 134
Embassies, 170
at Vesuvius, 97 Grotta di Matermania (Capri),
Emerald Grotto, 133, 134
Chiostro del Paradiso 147
Emergencies, 170
(Amalfi), 135 Guesthouses, 93
Enoteca delle Belledonne
Chiostro del Paradiso
bar (Naples), 84, 85
(Sorrento), 128
Chiostro di San Gregorio
Erchie, 137 H
Ercolano, 97. See also Herculaneum, 31, 105,
Armeno (Naples), 48–49
Herculaneum 114–117
Christmas cribs, 3, 20, 57,
Eruptions, of Vesuvius, 119 Hidden Naples, 46–49
62, 74
Holidays, 170
Churches, 32–37. See also
F Homewares, 73, 74
specific churches, e.g.:
Faraglioni (Capri), 99, 146 Hospitals, 170
San Domenico Maggiore
Fashion, 73 Hotel-hopping, 8
(Naples)
Church of Santo Stefano Fattoria del Casaro (Paestum), Hotels. See Lodging
4, 122 Hot springs, 4, 151, 152, 155
(Capri), 146
Cimitero delle Fontanelle Ferries, 4, 23, 125, 159, 166, House of the Deer (Hercula-
169 neum), 115–116
(Naples), 55
Festival di Ravello, 134, 141 House of the Tragic Poet
Ciracciello (Procida), 161, 162
Festivals, 164–165 (Pompeii), 111
Città delle Scienze
Food and drink, shopping Hydrofoils, 99, 145, 166, 169
(Naples), 59
Classical music, 85, 86 for, 73
180
Index
I Marina Grande (Capri), 145, full-day tours, 10–27
Il Castello (Naples), 69 148 history of, 173–175
Il Fornillo beach (Positano), Marina Grande (Positano), 98 lodging in, 88–94. See
132 Marina Grande (Procida), also Accommoda-
Il Foro (Pompeii), 110 105, 159 tions Index
Il Torrione (Forio), 154 Marina Grande (Sorrento), nightlife, 82–87
Insurance, 170 98, 128 performing arts, 82–87
Intarsia, 37, 126, 127 Marina Piccolo (Capri), 147 shopping, 70–75
Internet, 170–171 Marina Piccolo (Sorrento), 125 special interest tours,
Intra Moenia bar (Naples), Marinella (Naples), 70, 73 28–69
15, 84, 85 Maritime Museums strategies for seeing,
Ischia, 4, 105, 150–157 (Naples), 59 6–8
Ischia Porto, 151 Markets, 19, 75 Napoli Sotteranea, 52–53, 63
Italian cuisine, 8, 162 Maxi Ho Spa Café (Naples), Nastro Azzurro, 4, 128
Italian language, 171, 84, 85 Nativity scenes, 18, 57, 59,
176–177 Mercatino di Antignano 74, 165
(Naples), 75 Nature reserve, 161
Mercato Pignasecca Negombo (Ischia), 155
J (Naples), 19, 70, 75 Newspapers, 171
Jazz, 86, 165
Metro del Mare, 136 Nightclubs, 86–87
Jewelry, 31, 74–75
Metronapoli, 168 Nightlife, 21, 82–87, 103, 119
Minori, 136, 165
K Money, 171 O
Kinky club (Naples), 86–87 Monte di Pietà chapel Opera, 67, 85, 86
(Naples), 20–21, 62 Orto Botanico (Naples),
L Monte Echia, 66 47, 68–69
La Caffettiera bar (Naples), 49 Monte Solaro, 99, 148, 154 Ospedale delle Bambole
La Cantina di Triunfo bar Mozzarella di bufala, 4 (Naples), 57, 62
(Naples), 79–80 Museo Archeologico Osservatorio Vesuviano, 119
Lacco Ameno (Ischia), (Naples), 3, 15, 28–31, 117
152–153 Museo Archeologico dei
Lago di Averno, 26 Campi Flegrei (Baia), 25–26
P
Paestum, 4, 7, 106, 120–122
La Mortella (Ischia), 153 Museo Archeologico di
Palatine Chapel (Naples), 11
Large Theater (Pompeii), 112 Pithecusae (Ischia), 153
Palazzo Correale (Sorrento),
Largo Corpo di Napoli, 62 Museo Archeologico Nazio-
125
La Sfogliatella Mary nale di Paestum, 122
Palazzo dello Spanuolo
(Naples), 39 Museobottega della Tar-
(Naples), 47
Laundromats, 171 sialignea (Sorrento),
Palazzo Filomarino
La Zagra (Positano), 132 98, 127
(Naples), 61
Leather, 75 Museo Correale di Terranova
Palazzo Murat (Positano), 132
Lodging, 88–90. See also (Sorrento), 98, 125
Palazzo Pomarici Santomasi
Accommodations Index Museo d’Arte Contempora-
(Sorrento), 127
Lost property, 171 nea Donna Regina Napoli
Palazzo Reale (Naples),
Lupanare (Pompeii), 112 (MADRe), 33, 40, 48
11, 66, 67
Museo del Corallo (Ravello),
Palazzo Sangro (Naples), 62
M 141
Palazzo Spinelli (Naples), 63
Madonna del Soccorso Museo della Carta (Amalfi),
Palazzo Tufarelli (Naples), 61
(Forio), 154 102, 135
Palestra (Herculaneum), 116
MADRe. See Museo d’Arte Museo dell’Opera (Naples), 41
Pansa (Amalfi), 136
Contemporanea Donna Museo dell’Osservatorio
Parco Archeologico Baia, 25
Regina Napoli (Vesuvius), 118
Parco Archeologico di Cuma,
Magazines, 171 Museo di Capodimonte
26–27
Maggio dei Monumenti, (Naples), 21, 41, 42–45
Parking, 172
49, 164 Music, 72, 85, 86, 164–165
Parks, 4, 45, 58, 65, 101,
Mail, 171 102, 147, 149
Maiori, 103, 136 N Pastisseira Capriccio di
Marechiaro, 78 Nabilah club (Naples), 84, 87 Salvatore Capparelli
Marina di Equa, 101, 128 Naples (Naples), 34
Marina di Furore, 102, 133 dining in, 76–81. See Pastry shops, 39, 57, 61,
Marina di Praia, 102, 133 also Restaurant Index 102, 132, 136
Marina di Vico (Vico favorite moments in, Performing arts, in Naples,
Equense), 101 2–4 4, 67, 82–87, 112
181
Index
Piazza Bellini (Naples), 84 R Santa Maria delle Anime del
Piazza dei Mulini (Positano), Ravello, 103, 106, 140–143, Purgatorio ad Arco
132 165 (Naples), 20, 63
Piazza del Duomo (Ravello), Reale Fabbrica delle Porcel- Santa Maria delle Grazie
4, 103 lane (Naples), 45 (Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi),
Piazza del Plebiscito Regata Storica delle Antiche 102, 128
(Naples), 66–67, 165 Repubbliche Marinare, Santa Maria di Loreto (Forio),
Piazza Flavio Gioia (Amalfi), 134, 164 154
135 Restaurants. See Dining Santa Maria di Portosalvo
Piazza Gesù (Naples), 61 Rione Terra (Pozzuoli), 24 (Ischia), 151
Piazza Marina (Ischia), 152 Rising South club (Naples), 87 Santa Maria Donnaregina
Piazza Matteotti (Forio), Ruga Nova Mercatorum Vecchia (Naples),
153–154 (Amalfi), 102, 135 33–34, 48
Piazza San Domenico Sant’Angelo, 154, 155
(Naples), 61–62, 84 Sant’Angelo a Nilo
Piazza San Gaetano
S (Naples), 62
Sacred Road (Paestum), 120
(Naples), 63 Sant’Anna Da Emilia
Safety, 172
Piazza Santa Restituta (Sorrento), 98
Sagrestia Vecchia
(Ischia), 152–153 Sant’Anna dei Lombardi
(Naples), 37
Piazza Tasso (Sorrento), (Naples), 37
Salto di Tiberio (Capri), 147
98, 101, 125, 154 Sant’Antonino (Sorrento), 98
San Domenico Maggiore
Piazza Triste e Trento Sant’Antonio di Padova
(Naples), 62
(Naples), 67 (Conca dei Marini), 134
San Ferdinando (Naples), 67
Piazza Umberto (Capri), Santa Rosa (Conca dei
San Francesco (Sorrento),
99, 146 Marini), 134
98, 127–128
Piazza Umberto I (Atrani), 136 Santissima Annunziata (Vico
San Francesco di Paola
Pinacoteca Girolamini Equense), 101, 128
(Naples), 66–67
(Naples), 40 Scaturchio (Naples), 61
San Gennaro (Naples), 45
Pintauro (Naples), 57 Scavi di San Lorenzo
San Gennaro (Vettica Mag-
Pio Monte della Misericordia (Naples), 52
giore), 132–133
(Naples), 14, 39–40 Scooters, 159
San Giovani Batista (Vietri sul
Piscina Mirabilis (Bacoli), 27 Sede degli Augustali (Hercu-
Mer), 137
Pompeii, 31, 101, 108–113 laneum), 117
San Giovanni a Carbonara
Ponticello a Marechiaro Sedile Dominova (Sorrento),
(Naples), 33, 47–48
(Posillipo), 58 98, 126–127
San Giovanni del Toro (Rav-
Porta della Marina (Amalfi), Sezione Navale (Naples), 59
ello), 103, 141–142
135 Shoes, 75
San Gregorio Armeno
Porta di Mezz’omo (Procida), Shopping, 19, 70–75
(Naples), 4, 20, 35–36
160 Sibyl of Cumae, 26, 27
San Lorenzo Maggiore
Porta Giustizia (Paestum), 120 Small Theater (Pompeii), 112
(Naples), 21, 34–35, 44, 63
Porta Marina (Pompeii), 110 Smoking, 172
San Luca (Praiano), 133
Porta Nolana market S’move bar (Naples), 84, 85
San Michele (Anacapri),
(Naples), 75 Soccer, 87
99, 148
Poseidon (Forio), 155 Solfatara crater, 23
San Nicola al Nilo
Poseidonia, 120 Sorrentine Peninsula, 128
(Naples), 62
Positano, 7, 98–99, 102, Sorrento, 98, 101, 106, 124–
San Pancrazio (Conca dei
106, 131–132 129, 164
Marini), 134
Pozzuoli, 23–25, 55, 165 Spaccanapoli (Naples),
San Pietro a Maiella
Praiano, 102, 132, 133 13–14
(Naples), 63
Presepi, 20, 57, 59, 74, 165 Spas, 94, 151, 152, 155, 162
San Salvatore de’ Bireto
Priapus’s Tavern (Hercula- Special events, 164–165
(Atrani), 136
neum), 116 Special interest tours, 28–69
Santa Chiara (Naples), 13,
Procida, 58, 105, 158–162, Decumani, 60–63
36, 53, 61
164 hidden Naples, 46–49
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi,
Public transportation, 24, Museo Archeologico,
102, 128
120, 168 28–31
Santa Maria Assunta (Posi-
Punta di Sant’Angelo, 154 Museo di Capodimonte,
tano), 132
42–45
Santa Maria della Neve
Q Naples’ best churches,
(Conca dei Marini), 134
Quartieri Spagnoli (Naples), 32–37
Santa Maria della Sanità
12, 49 Naples for art lovers,
(Naples), 54
Quota 1000 (Vesuvius), 97, 38–41
118, 119
182
Index
Special interest tours (cont.) Thermal baths, 4, 151, 152, Accommodations
Naples with kids, 56–59 155
Index
Orto Botanico, 68–69 Tickets, 15, 24, 85
Albergo della Regina Isabella
underground Naples, Time zone, 172
(Ischia), 156
50–55 Tino da Camaino, 13, 21, 33,
Azienda Agricola Seliano
Waterfront and Royal 35, 36
(Paestum), 106
Naples, 64–67 Tipping, 172
B&B Bellini (Naples), 91
Spiaggia dei Maronti (Ischia), Toilets, 172
Belle Arti Resort (Naples), 91
155 Tomb of the Diver
Bellevue Syrene (Sorrento),
Spiaggia dei Pescatori (Paestum), 122
129
(Ischia), 152 Torre Tenaglia (Baia), 25
Cappella Vecchia 11
Spiaggia Grande (Positano), Tourist information, 24, 164,
(Naples), 91
132 172–173
Casa Astarita (Sorrento), 129
Sports, 87 Tours, guided, 53, 67, 122
Casa Celestino
Stadio San Paolo (Naples), Trains, 7, 120, 166–169
(Sant’Angelo), 156
84, 87
Chiaia Hotel de Charme
Stationery, 75 U (Naples), 91
Stazioni dell’Arte (Naples), Underground Naples, 50–55 Cimarosa (Naples), 91
53–54 UNESCO World Heritage Costantinopoli 104 (Naples),
site, 69 90, 91
T Decumani Hotel de Charme
Taberna di Priapo (Hercula- V (Naples), 90, 91
neum), 116 Vallone di Furore, 133 Donna Regina B&B (Naples),
Tavola Strozzi, 41 Velvet Zone club (Naples), 90, 92
Taxis, 147, 166, 168 84, 87 Excelsior (Naples), 92
Tea House at La Mortella Vesuvius, 4, 31, 57, 97, 105, Furore Inn Resort, 138
(Ischia), 153 113, 115, 117–119 Grand Hotel Vesuvius
Teatro Bellini (Naples), 85 Vettica Maggiore, 132 (Naples), 90, 92
Teatro Grande (Pompeii), Via San Pasquale market Hotel Amalfi, 138
112 (Naples), 75 Hotel Caruso (Ravello), 143
Teatro Mercadante (Naples), Vico Equense, 101, 128 Hotel Continental Mare
84–86 Vietri sul Mer, 103, 106, 137 (Ischia), 156
Teatro Piccolo (Pompeii), Villa Cimbrone (Ravello), Hotel Del Real Orto Botanico
112 103, 142 (Naples), 92
Teatro San Carlo (Naples), Villa Communale (Naples), Hotel La Vigna (Procida), 162
4, 67, 84, 86 58, 65 Hotel Manzi Terme (Ischia),
Temperatures, 165 Villa Communale (Sorrento), 156
Tempio di Apollo (Pompeii), 101 Hotel Piazza Bellini (Naples),
110 Villa dei Misteri (Pompeii), 90, 92
Tempio di Cerere (Paestum), 101, 111 Hotel Piccolo Marina (Capri),
122 Villa dei Papiri (Hercula- 149
Tempio di Hera (Paestum), neum), 31, 117 Hotel Punta Tragara (Capri),
121 Villa Jovis (Capri), 102, 147 149
Tempio di Nettuno Villa Malaparte (Capri), 147 Il Convento (Naples), 91
(Paestum), 121 Villa Pignatelli (Naples), 65 Il Monastero (Ischia), 156
Tempio di Serapide Villa Rufolo (Ravello), 103, La Casa sul Mare (Procida),
(Pozzuoli), 24 141, 165 162
Temple of Diana (Baia), 25 Villa San Michele (Anacapri), La Maruzzella (Anacapri),
Temple of Mercury (Baia), 25 99, 148 149
Terme Centrali (Hercula- Vivara, 160–161 La Minervetta (Sorrento),
neum), 116–117 129
Terme del Foro (Pompeii), Le Sirene (Praiano), 138
110
W
Walking paths, 4, 97, 118, Majestic (Naples), 90, 92
Terme Stabiane (Pompeii), Micalò (Naples), 90, 93
119, 147
111–112 Miramare (Naples), 90, 93
Waterfront and Royal
Terme Suburbane Miramare (Sant’Angelo), 156
Naples, 64–67
(Herculaneum), 115 Neapolis (Naples), 93
Weather, 164, 165
Terra Murata (Procida), Palazzo Murat (Amalfi), 138
Websites, useful, 85,
105, 160 Paradiso (Naples), 93
165–166
Tesoro di San Gennaro Parker’s (Naples), 79, 90, 93
Wine bars, 36, 79–80, 85,
(Naples), 34 Pinto-Storey (Naples), 93
129
Theater, 4, 67, 85, 86, 112 Port’Alba Relais (Naples), 93
183
Index
Romeo (Naples), 90, 93–94 Don Alfonso (Sant’Agata sui L’Olivo (Anacapri), 149
San Francesco al Monte Due Golfi), 128 MADRe Café (Naples), 41
(Naples), 90, 94 Don Salvatore (Naples), 79 Marino (Naples), 80
San Pietro (Amalfi), 4, 138 Dora (Naples), 76, 79 Mimi alla Ferrovia (Naples), 80
Santa Caterina (Amalfi), 138 Emporio Ravello, 141 Moccia (Naples), 76
Starhotel Terminus (Naples), Europeo di Mattozzi Mosaico (Ischia), 156, 157
90, 94 (Naples), 76, 79 Next 2 (Positano), 139
Suite Esedra (Naples), 94 Fiorenzano (Naples), 76 Osteria Toledo (Naples), 80
Villa Giordano (Ravello), 143 Fish Bone (Procida), 162 Osteria Viva Lo Re, 97
Villa Maria (Ravello), 143 Friggitoria Fiorenzano Palazzo Petrucci (Naples),
Weekend a Napoli, 90, 94 (Naples), 19 80–81
The Garden (Sorrento), 129 Pane e Vino (Ischia), 157
Restaurant Index George’s at Parker’s Pizzeria Di Matteo
Agorà (Anacapri), 148 (Naples), 76, 79 (Naples), 63
Al Farretto (Marechiaro), Il Focolare (Ischia), 157 Pizzeria e Friggitoria Presi-
76, 78 Il Garum (Naples), 76, 79 dente (Naples), 62
Alfonso al Mare (Marina di Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente Radici (Naples), 76, 81
Praia), 102, 133, 139 (Naples), 48 Ristorante Pizzeria Pirozzi
Amici Miei (Naples), 76, 78 La Bersagliera (Naples), 79 (Ischia), 157
Antica Trattoria (Sorrento), La Brace (Praiano), 139 Rosellini’s (Ravello), 143
129 La Cambusa (Positano), 139 Rosiello (Naples), 76, 81
Antiche Delizie (Naples), 58 La Campannina (Capri), 149 San Ferdinando (Naples), 81
Barcadero, 66 La Cantina di Triunfo San Pietro (Cetara), 139
Bar Fauno (Sorrento), 125, 127 (Naples), 76, 79–80 Sant’Anna Da Emilia, 129
Bar Mexico (Naples), 19, 76 La Cantinella (Naples), 76, 80 Scaturchio (Naples), 76
Buonocuore (Capri), 147 La Conchiglia (Chiaia), 162 Timpani e Tempura
Cantina della Sapienza La Gorgonia (Procida), 162 (Naples), 53
(Naples), 78 La Mattonella (Naples), 80 Torre del Saracino (Marina di
Ciao Pizza (Naples), 13 La Stanza del Gusto Equa), 101, 128, 129
Cumpà Cosimo (Ravello), 143 (Naples), 80 Trattoria dell’Ovo, 81
Da Gemma (Amalfi), 139 La Taverna dell’Arte Umberto a Mare (Forio),
Da Gemma (Capri), 149 (Naples), 80 4, 157
Da Michele (Naples), 3, 76, 78 La Tortuga (Baia), 25 Villa Maria (Ravello), 143
Da Tonino (Naples), 76, 78–79 Le Grotelle (Capri), 149 Zi Caterina (Pompeii), 112
184
Photo Credits
Photo Credits
Front Matter Credits: i: © BL Images ltd /Alamy; © Bon Appetit / Alamy; © Jon Arnold
images Ltd / Alamy
All images: © Luca Moggi, New Press Photo with the following exceptions:
To convert......................... multiply by
110˚ F inches to centimeters.................... 2.54
40˚ C centimeters to inches...................... .39
100˚ F
feet to meters...................................30
90˚ F meters to feet................................3.28
30˚ C
80˚ F yards to meters.................................91
meters to yards..............................1.09
70˚ F 20˚ C miles to kilometers........................1.61
60˚ F kilometers to miles......................... .62
1 ft = .30 m 1 mile = 1.6 km
50˚ F 10˚ C
1 m = 3.3 ft 1 km = .62 mile
40˚ F
32˚ F 0˚ C
20˚ F To convert..........................multiply by
-10˚ C Ounces to grams......................... 28.35
10˚ F Grams to ounces.............................035
0˚ F -18˚ C Pounds to kilograms....................... .45
Kilograms to pounds.....................2.20
-10˚ F
1 ounce = 28 grams
-20˚ F -30˚ C 1 pound = .4555 kilogram
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