Documenti di Didattica
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Documenti di Cultura
Cenni storici
Il territorio del Monte Pisano si estende tra le province di Pisa e Lucca
occupando una superficie di 15200 ettari. Il versante pisano, suddiviso tra i
comuni di Buti, Vicopisano, Cascina, Calci, Vecchiano e San Giuliano, offre al
visitatore la possibilit di effettuare escursioni naturalistiche di rara bellezza, ma
anche di visitare i luoghi resi celebri dalla tradizione. Grazie alla felice
collocazione geografica, larea gode di una condizione climatica favorevole e di
temperature medie piuttosto miti che la eleggono a meta ideale di una vacanza
allinsegna del relax e del benessere.
I primi insediamenti etruschi della zona risalgono probabilmente al periodo
compreso tra lEt del Bronzo e il periodo orientale, come attestano i ritrovamenti
di cippi funerari e di frammenti di vasi a vernice nera nelle localit di Noce,
presso Uliveto, e di Caprona.
Le trasformazioni verificatesi nellambito delledilizia e dei sistemi insediativi
umani durante la dominazione romana sul territorio pisano, ebbero dei riflessi
anche sul Monte: il segno pi evidente del passaggio romano in questa zona
certo costituito dai resti dellacquedotto di Caldaccoli (da calidae aquae), che
conduceva verso Pisa le acque di una sorgente posta nelle vicinanze di Rigoli.
La prima cittadina nella quale ci imbattiamo risalendo la strada lungo la riva
sinistra del Rio Magno in direzione del Monte Serra Buti, antico borgo
confinario posto a 85 m sul livello del mare. Alcuni studiosi hanno ipotizzato che
potesse avere origini romane, da Buiti Castrum, e dai suoi primi feudatari i Da
Buti o Buiti. Tuttavia le prime notizie certe risalgono al 1000, quando Buti faceva
parte di un sistema castellare formato da otto castelli, molti dei quali sono adesso
ridotti a ruderi o del tutto scomparsi. Rimangono invece visibili Castel di Nocco,
Castel Tonini e Panicale (Castel Panicale).
Da Castel di Nocco, procedendo lungo la strada del Termine, entriamo nel
comune di Vicopisano. I primi documenti che ne attestano lesistenza sono del X
secolo, nel 1002 viene menzionato per la prima volta come castello, ma solo a
partire dal 1030 troviamo tracce di un centro abitato detto Vico Auserissola. Dal
1238, invece, al nome Vico fu stabilmente unito il termine Pisano.
Con lassoggettamento di Pisa a Firenze (1406), Vicopisano divenne sede di
vicariato la cui giurisdizione nel tempo and a comprendere comunit facenti parti
delle tre podesterie di Vicopisano, Cascina e Ripafratta.
La costruzione del castello e del borgo di Cascina si possono collocare
attorno al 1142, ed ancora pi tarde sono le mura. La citt vanta quindi
antichissime origini, visto che il primo documento che parla di una curte episcopi
in Cascina databile attorno all865. Tra gli innumerevoli scontri che si
combatterono nei pressi di questo borgo bisogna ricordare la battaglia del 1364,
raffigurata da Michelangelo in uno studio pensato per affrescare la Sala del
Maggior Consiglio ed andato perduto. Una volta caduta sotto il controllo
fiorentino, Cascina fu premiata per la fedelt mostrata ai Medici con la
concessione dellimmunit dai gravami fiscali (1554), di cui godette a lungo.
Nella vallata attraversata dal fiume Zambra, e comunemente nota come
Valgraziosa, sorge la cittadina di Calci. Il toponimo sembra richiamarsi alla
natura calcarea del terreno della zona, oppure ad un insediamento greco di
calcidesi. Probabilmente il luogo era gi abitato in epoca romana, ma le prime
attestazioni scritte dellesistenza di Calci appartengono ai secoli VIII-XII. Nel
periodo medievale il borgo fu noto come sede di un importante centro di mercato,
mentre in epoca moderna - sotto la dinastia medicea - fu prediletto per i soggiorni
estivi e di caccia. Nei pressi di Calci si trova il piccolo centro di Montemagno, a
198 m daltezza sul mare, celebre per avere dato i natali a papa Eugenio III
Paganelli (1145-1153).
Procedendo nel nostro itinerario tra i borghi che punteggiano il versante
pisano del Monte, San Giuliano Terme ci appare come uno dei pi ricchi di
tradizione e di storia. Famosa gi in epoca romana per le sue terme, i cosiddetti
Bagni pisani, solo dopo il Mille fu oggetto di interessamento e di interventi da
parte di Pisa: tra i primi restauri ricordiamo quello voluto dalla Contessa Matilde,
nel 1112. Dopo un lungo periodo di abbandono, lavori di recupero e di bonifica
vennero avviati da Cosimo I de Medici e continuarono, con alterne vicende, sotto
i suoi successori.
San Giuliano fu luogo di vacanze e di svaghi anche nel 700 e nell800:
mentre ledificio termale continuava ad essere al centro della vita dei villeggianti,
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Arte e cultura
Il Monte Pisano offre al turista che vi si avventuri non soltanto lemozione di
suggestivi scorci naturalistici, ma anche la possibilit di scorgere le vestigia di un
illustre passato, di visitare chiese e palazzi di eccezionale bellezza.
Allinterno del Comune di Buti segnaliamo il Teatro intitolato a Francesco di
Bartolo, edificato nel rispetto delle esigenze delle Accademie arcadi del 700,
ovvero con i palchetti su due ordini. Giunti nel borgo di Castel Tonini ci
imbattiamo nella Villa medicea, la quale altro non che il palazzo settecentesco
dei Tonini, da cui il borgo prende nome. Il palazzo elegantemente affrescato da
Pietro Giarr, pittore che oper a Buti (1770-1791) e alla Certosa di Calci. Nei
pressi di Panicale, invece, si scorge la chiesa romanica di S. Maria della Neve (XI
sec.).
Merita sicuramente una visita accurata il borgo di Vicopisano, che si sviluppa
attorno al castello eretto sulla sommit della collina durante il secolo X. Nel corso
del tempo il castello medievale, adesso propriet privata, ha subito molte
modifiche e restauri, ed oggi poco rimane delle strutture originarie. Laspetto del
castello cominci a mutare nel 400, quando i Fiorentini decisero di progettare
una nuova rocca e ne diedero lincarico a Brunelleschi (1377-1446).
Dellimponente fortilizio fiorentino sopravvivono il cassero con la torre detta il
Cavaliere (la vera e propria Rocca), la Torre del Soccorso o di Guardia, e il
muraglione di raccordo fra le due torri.
Delle cinque porte che in passato si aprivano nel circuito murario, oggi
visibile solo quella del Riale o Reale (Torre delle Quattro Porte), in
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corrispondenza della strada per Lucca (secc. XII-XV). Certo non meno
interessante
il
Palazzo
Comunale
della
Cancelleria
che,
frutto
intitolata al poeta P. B. Shelley (1792-1822), che qui risiedette con la famiglia nel
1820.
Ma, una volta a San Giuliano, saremo catturati dal fascino di due perle del
romanico pisano: la Pieve di S. Marco a Rigoli (secc. XXIII) e la Pieve di S.
Giovanni Battista e S. Maria a Pugnano (sec. XI).
Di pari bellezza la Pieve di Santa Maria (secc. XI-XII) di Cascina, collocata
nella piazza della chiesa accanto ad altri edifici religiosi come la Cappella del
Sacramento, comunicante con la pieve, lOratorio di S. Croce, un tempo adibito a
battistero, ed il campanile. Di fronte alla Pieve spicca Palazzo Stefanini,
appartenuto alla omonima famiglia cascinese dal 1647 al 1841. Il palazzo, adesso
sede della Misericordia, conserva al suo interno ricche decorazioni in stile
barocco. LOratorio di S. Giovanni Battista (fine XIV sec.), commissionato dal
cavaliere gerosolimitano Bartolo Palmieri, racchiude invece un ciclo di affreschi
raffiguranti storie dellAntico Testamento, attribuibili a Martino di Bartolomeo.
Anche Vecchiano racchiude una chiesa di origini romaniche, la Pieve di S.
Alessandro, distrutta alla met del 300 insieme alla cinta muraria e alla Torre
Difensiva, e successivamente riedificata. Voltandosi a nord, su unaltura si scorge
la chiesa di S. Maria in Castello, anticamente sede di una fortezza.
Ambiente e natura
Il massiccio del Monte Pisano una delle formazioni geologiche pi antiche
della Toscana, composto per almeno due terzi da terreno paleozoico, cui si sono
aggiunti i terreni del secondario e del terziario.
La pietra pi comunemente estratta dal massiccio il verrucano, con la quale
nel medioevo sono stati edificati molti palazzi pisani. Pare tuttavia che nel Monte
non mancassero neanche cave di marmo, alcune delle quali appartennero ai
Gualandi. Possiamo datare linizio dellattivit estrattiva attorno al V secolo a. C.,
anche se il fatto che le escavazioni di marmo in et moderna siano avvenute nelle
stesse zone sfruttate nel medioevo e in epoca romana, ha finito per cancellare le
tracce pi antiche dellattivit di estrazione.
Tra le principali risorse del Monte troviamo lacqua: le acque sorgive hanno
permesso fin dallantichit di azionare i mulini - dal Mulino Alliata di Rigoli a
quelli dislocati tra Noce e Vicopisano e di alimentare le stazioni termali. Qui le
acque scaturivano riscaldate per effetto geotermico, e sono state utilizzate per
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dal capitolo dei Canonici. Sotto i Savoia fu poi eletta a luogo di residenza estiva
della famiglia reale. I principali edifici che rimangono nella Tenuta sono di epoca
ottocentesca, eccezion fatta per la Villa Medicea di Coltano (1587), adesso Centro
Visite del Parco.
Prodotti Tipici
Historical outlines
The territory of "MONTE PISANO" extends in the northern part of the Province of Pisa
covering an area of 15.000 hectares.
The Pisan side is divided into the Communes of BUTI, VICOPISANO, CASCINA,
CALCI, VECCHIANO and SAN GIULIANO, offering visitors the chance to make
naturalistic excursions of great beauty and at the same time visit famous localities for their
traditions.
Thanks to its geographical position, this area enjoys a pleasant climate with medium mild
temperatures ideal to choose for a relaxing holiday and wellbeing.
The first Etruscan settlements probably date back to between the Bronze and Oriental age.
Findings of inscribed pillars and fragments of black painted vases in the area of Noce (
near Uliveto) and Caprona testify this.
Within the area, human installations were built during the Roman domination and are also
reflected on Monte Pisano. The most evident sign of the Roman period is certanly the
remains of the "Acqueduct" of "Caldaccoli" ( from calidae aquae ) which lead water to
Pisa from a spring near Rigoli.
Climbing the road along the left side of Rio Magno in the direction of Mt. Serra the first
village we come accross is BUTI an antique "Borgo" 85 metres above sea level . Some
researchers suppose that it has Roman origins from" Buiti Castrum" and first feudal lords
"da buti or Buiti". However we are sure it dates back to 1.000 a.d. when Buti was part of a
group of eight castles many of which are now reduced to ruins or disappeared. The "Castel
di Nocco", "Castel Tonini" and "Castel Panicale" are still visible.
From Castel di Nocco proceeding along the "Termine" road we reach the village of Vico
Pisano.
The first documents which affirms its existence are in 1002 when a castle was referred to,
then from 1030 we can find traces of a settlement called "Vico Auserissola". The name
Vico was joined with the term Pisano in 1238.
When Pisa was submitted to Florence in 1406, the Vicariate of Vicopisano took over the
townhalls of Cascina and Ripafratta.
The castle in the town of Cascina can be placed at around 1142, then later the walls. The
origins of this Town is very old considering the first documents speak of (curte episcopi in
Cascina) and date back to around 865. Among the various nearby disputes against this
Town we should remember the battle in 1364.
Michelangelo started work to fresco (affrescare) the Counsellor's room but was lost. Once
under control of the Florentines, Cascina was awarded free taxes for its loyalty to the
Medicis and this was enjoyed for a long period.
In the last centuries it is developped the forniture industrial production.
In the valley which crosses the river Zambra, commonly known as Valgraziosa, is the
village of Calci. Its name suggests the lime around the area or a Greek installation
(Calcidesi) . This area was probably inhabited during the Roman period but first written
documentation is from 8th to
12th century.
During medieval times Calci was known as an important market centre, then in the
Medicean times for hunting and summer stays. In the vicinity of Calci is the small village
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of Montemagno (198 metres above sea level) known as the birthplace of Pope Eugenio III
Paganelli (1145-1153):
Continuing our itinerary through the villages dotting Monte Pisano we come to San
Giuliano,
which is one of the richest in history and tradition. Already well-known during Roman
times for its SPA. After the year 1000 it regained interest from the Pisans.
Contessa Matilda was one of the first to make restauration work in 1112. After a long
period of abandon improvements were begun by Cosimo I de Medici and continued by his
successors.
San Giuliano was used for holidays and enjoyment during 700 and 800. The Thermal
building was the centre for visitors who used to meet at "Kafe House" Celebrities Alfieri,
Shelley, Lord Byron and royalties such as Luigi Bonaparte and Paolina Borghese.
On the right of the river Serchio we come accross Vecchiano only 7 metres above sea
level. The first written documents date back to the 8th century, then before 1.000 it was
known as the place of two low class churches: "San Frediano and San Michele a Ponte a
Serchio".
During these times it had more of a rural aspect than a typical walled town and was part of
the Selva Palalatina stretching from Monte Pisano to the sea, an Imperial hunting reserve.
Art and Culture
TheMonte Pisano not only offers the turist the feeling to venture into many
beautiful nature places but also the chance to glimpse the footprints of a distinguished
past, visiting renowned churches and buildings of exceptional beauty.
Inside the Comune of Buti we can see the "Teatro" dedicated to "Francesco di
Bartolo" and built respecting the needs of the arcadian Acadamies of 700. After reaching
the "Borgo of Castel Tonini" we come accross the Medicean Villa, which was not the
residence of Tonini as the name suggests. The building has beautiful elegant affrescoes
by Pietro Giarr a painter who worked at Buti (1770-1791) and at the Certosa di Calci. In
the vicinity of Panicale rises a little Romanesque church called S. Maria della Neve (XIth
century).
Vicopisano surely deserves a thorough visit, it was built around a tall upright castle
on the top of a hill during the IIth century. In the course of time the medieval castle, now
private property has undergone many changes. Today little remains of the original
structure. The aspect of the castle began to change in 400 when the Florentines planned a
new fortress and gave the task to Brunelleschi (1377-1446). The imposing florentine
fortress has a nave which is still intact and is called the " La torre del Soccorso" or "Di
guardia" is the massive wall which joins the two towers. In the past there were 5 doors
opening around the village walls. Today you can only see the one called "Riale" or (Torre
delle quatto porte) which corrispond with the road in the direction of Lucca (12th-15th
C.). Not to forget the interesting building "Palazzo Comunale" or "Cancelleria" that, as a
result of various buildings were united, and began to become important from 1661 and
were re-enforced by two embattled (twin) towers in 12th C. The "Palazzo Pretorio"
situated on top of the hill beneath the fortress, looks like an irregular polygon built by the
unition of various buildings around an imposing medieval building. The construction is of
3 floors. On the ground floor are the prison cells. On the first floor reunion rooms and on
the third floor staff rooms and more prison cells. In the surrounding areas of Vicopisano
you can see the church of San. Jacopo di Lupetta "has one nave of which was probably
built by the Lombards" and the "Rocca della Verruca". This building was a military
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construction of which the oldest dates back to the 8th C. Today you can see the ruins from
the 14th C. and 15th C.
In the centre of the village of Calci we can see the parish church of S. Giovanni
Evangelista (12th C.) a good example of romanesque style. This church consists of 3
naves and a bell tower, unfortunately unfinished, where there is a sculptured head of
"Giove Ammone".
Of extraordinary beauty and artistic value we can visit the Monastry complex of "Certosa"
founded in 1366 in legacy of an armenian merchant. The building of the Certosa began as
a single construction, then over the centuries many other buildings were added forming
the single construction that we can see today with many traces of the Baroque style.
The oldest parts are the original enclosures, the church, the cloister, the refectory, the
meeting room and the guest quarters. Today we can see two museums, one Art-History
and the other Natural and territorial history. Now under the guardianship of the
"Sopraintendenza di Pisa" and partly managed by the Pisa university.
If we spend a holiday in these lovely places its a must to visit the village of S. Giuliano
Terme. Here we can admire the ruins of "the Acquedotto di Caldaccoli" and the ruins of
the Medicean acqeduct (1592-1613) near Asciano that consists of 954 arches and in older
times it brought water from the Springs at Valle delle Fonti to Pisa.
Today the spa is still situated in the 18th C. building accomplished by Ignazio Pellegrini
and gives the visitor the chance to enjoy wellbeing and beauty treatments. The poet P. B.
Shelley (1792-1822) lived here with his family in 1820. While visiting San Giuliano we
can be captivated by two Romanesque pearls, the church of " San. Marco a Rigoli" (10-13
C.) the church of "San Giovanni Battista" and "S. Maria a Pugnano" (11th C.).
Of equal beauty is the town of Cascina where we can admire the church of Santa Maria
in the church square and nearby other religious buildings such as " La Cappella del
Sacramento" and " L'Oratorio di S. Croce" once a baptistry and bell tower joined to the
church. In front of the church you can distinctly see "Palazzo Stefanini" which once
belonged to the Stefanini family in Cascina from 1647-1841. Today the building houses
the local Ambulance service (Misericordia) and its interior is rich in Baroque decorations
"L'Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista" (end of 14th C.) commissioned by Bartolo Palmieri
and has a series of affrescoes that represent stories from the old testiment, assignable to
Martino di Bartolomeo.
In Vecchiano there is also a romanesque church "La pieve di S. Alessandro". This was
destroyed around the middle of '300 together with the village walls and the defence tower,
then rebuilt. Looking towards the north on higher ground we can see the church of S.
Maria in Castello once a fortress.
The geological formation of the massif of Monte Pisano is one of the oldest in
Tuscany. Two thirds are from the eozoic age and from then the secondary layers.
The stone most commonly excracted is "Verrucano" with which many Pisan buildings
were
built during medieval. It seems like the mountain also had marble caves, some of which
belonged to the Gualandi family. Excractions probably date back to around 500 B.C. but
Excractions of Verrucano stone in the Roman and medieval age has cancelled out all
traces of
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The strada dell'olio is an itinerary studied especially for visitors who want to enjoy the
unspoilt beauty of the area from the sea to the Appenines along the "Pedemonte" way in
order to
value typical produce of the aerea: Olive oil.
A landscape distinguished by terraced olive groves, mills and agriturism (Farmhouses)
offering
guided tours of the wine cellars and oil mills where you can see how they are produced.
For
trekking enthusiasts the "Vie verde" in San Giuliano is a network of paths winding
through the
protected area of Monte Castellare and Valle delle Fonti through beautiful woodland,
with
panoramic seaviews. An expert guide will accompany you if you wish.
The splendid national park "Parco Migliarino San Rossore" and "Massaciuccoli" is
another
opportunity for nature lovers to discover.
The park is divided into various areas of equal beauty and interest: "La tenuta Borbone",
"La
padule settentrionale di Massaciuccoli, "La tenuta di Migliarino". The latter is covered
by a
thick pinewood in the north of the river Serchio while the south of the river is the
"Tenuta
presidenziale di S. Rossore".
The park offers different landscapes: sandy wasteland, vast extensions of Marritime pine
trees,
holm oaks, deciduous woods with ash, alders and poplars with its lakeside vegetation
Massaciuccoli, ideal habitat for birdsnesting and viewing 260 types of birds.
The best known area today is perhaps the Tenuta of San Rossore which takes its name
from
the monastry of San Luxorio. This was a hunting area of the Medici's and land
reclamation was
often necessary because of increasing marshland.
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During the reign of the Savoys it was chosen as the summer residence of the royal
family.
The principal buildings that remain are from 19th century with the exception of the
Medicean
villa of Coltano (1587) now part of the park.
Typical produce
The Torta c bischeri is a round, dark cake made from sweet pastry, chocolate, candid
fruit, and
pine nuts. The traditional technique is still used today with it's particular combination of
ingredients. The pine nuts used in the recipe should come from the park of Migliarino S.
Rossore.
Cantucci toscani: These are diagonally shaped biscuits filled with whole almonds (20%)
and
pine nuts (2%). They are usually served with Vin santo (a dessert wine) and dunked into
the
wine. The recipe is probably handed down from Medicean cooks who aquired the recipe
from
the pastry cooks of Isabella d'Este (end 15th C.) while staying in Florence before one of
her
many pilgramages to Rome to visit the Pope.
Castagnaccio toscano: This is a rather flat cake and brown in colour. Its sweet taste
comes from
the chestnuts, although solid it has a soft texture. The particular combination of
ingredients and
method, gives this product its tradition: The chestnut flour and olive oil is made locally,
plus
the cake is cooked in special baking pans giving it a unique flavour.
Pecorino del Parco Migliarino S. Rossore: This is a sweet medium textured cheese made
exclusively from whole sheeps milk. The forms weigh an average of 2 Kg. The milk
used comes
from sheep called "autoctone" bred traditionally in the territory of the park. The
technique
remains the same today, choosing the sheep, feeding the sheep, and the ripening of the
cheese
on wooden boards kept in the park, giving it a particular taste, sweeter than other
Pecorino and
of a high quality.
Ricotta di pecora tradizionale toscana: this milky white soft cheese (made from the
whey left
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over after the first full fat cheese has been excracted) has a sweet delicate flavour and a
spongy
cream texture. You can find it packaged in plastic containers of various sizes.
The quality and tradition of this cheese, still made in the same as in the past way, is due
to the quality of production. Local milk gives this cheese a particular flavour.
Traditionally eaten with "Necci" (a typical sweet made with chestnut flour from
Lunigiana and
Garfagnana).
Il lombo di maiale salato or "lonzino": This is salted pork from tuscan pigs crossed and
bred in
the traditional way.
La spalla di maiale pisana: a type of tender cured ham with a pinkish to dark red colour.
This ham is typical in Pisan areas but is produced (with slight variations) all over
Tuscany.
It's an old farmers tradition and used in a dish called "Piatto maggese" (cubes of ham,
with
fresh broad beans and pecorino cheese).
Il Mallegato pisano: An oval formed Salame dark in colour with a sweetish taste
intensified
by herbs and spices. Best eaten fresh, not seasoned, and cut into slices.
Il Mucco pisano: This delicious meat is the result of crossing cattle from the local
"podolica"
cow" the "chianina" and the "bruno alpina". It's has a reddish brown coat with a line
across
its back. Males have short thick necks and ample dewlaps.
The meat is tender and light red in colour.
Agnello del Parco di Migliarino S. Rossore: This lamb is tender, compact and a pinkish
colour.
It's flavour is delicate. The tradition of this meat is in the breed (agnello massese) and in
the
feeding of the animals.
Honey: (Beach honey of the Parco Migliarino S. Rossore). A light transparent amber
coloured
honey and quite liquid. it's scent reminds you of the mediterranean bush where it is
produced.
Rock roses, tamarisk, strawberry tree, pitosforo, and other mediterranean wild flowers,
such as
"Camuciolo" and "Cisto"difficult to find in Italy. Camuciolo produces essensial oils
which mark
the bees during pollination so giving the honey a particular aroma. Another reason which
facilitates this production of honey is the mild climate and the natural area where it
comes
from.
Il Pinolo del parco: These pine nuts are oval in shape, the shell is dark brown and the
nuts an
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off-white colour. The nuts come from pine trees which give them the strong resin
flavour.
The tradition and quality of pine nuts from the national park comes from the quality of
the
trees in our mediterranean scrub, not to mention the manufacturing of the nuts , using
ancient
and local traditions. A typical method is to dry the pine cones for about seven months to
extract
the nuts. Pine nuts has been used for over 100 years to make the "Torta c bischeri",
"Genoan
pesto", "La torta della nonna", "Tortellini rustici" and "Castagnaccio".
Olio pisano: The olives used for the production of olive oil in this area are hand picked
and
bottled locally. The extra-virgin oil of Monte Pisano comes from protected area and is a
greenish yellow colour light and fruity with a slight sweet piccante taste.
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