SHOWDETAILS PARIS LONDON

Why does fashion keep looking back instead of forward? Why this insistence on skipping from one decade to another, from a mini-skirt to bell bottoms, a Victorian collar to a sky-high split, instead of grounding us in the here and now, exploring it an

The iconic tweed suit was reworked for ‘Millennials’ – with oversize lines, contrasting edges, Velcro straps in place of buttons, skirts with front zips – and worn over visible underwear; this was Karl Lagerfeld’s revolution for Chanel, which feature

The iconic tweed suit was reworked for ‘Millennials’ – with oversize lines, contrasting edges, Velcro straps in place of buttons, skirts with front zips – and worn over visible underwear; this was Karl Lagerfeld’s revolution for Chanel, which feature

Hermès focused on practical, functional luxury that nodded to workwear by borrowing its style and details. There were zipped shirts with reinforced shoulders and diagonal zipped pockets tucked into high-waist trousers with side bands, jumpsuits with

Perche la moda non va piu avanti ma continua a guardare solo indietro? Perche questo insistente rimbalzare da un’epoca all’altra, da una minigonna ad un pantalone a zampa, da un collo vittoriano ad uno spacco inguinale, invece di fermarsi nel present

L’iconico tailleur di tweed rivisitato in stile ‘Millennials’, con linee over, bordi a contrasto, fasce in velcro al posto dei bottoni, gonne con zip frontali, si porta sull’intimo a vista; ecco la rivoluzione di Karl Lagerfeld per Chanel, che fa spu

Hermès mette in primo piano un lusso pratico e funzionale che strizza l’occhio alle divise da lavoro prendendone in prestito stile e dettagli; ci sono camicie zippate con spalle rinforzate e tasche diagonali, anch’esse zippate, infilate dentro pantal

MEET MIMIQ: LA REGINA DELLA SETA MeetMimiQ@163.com www.meetmimiq.com Jing Qiu is the designer at international fashion brand Meet mimiQ and she has rapidly garnered success in China. Her technique and designs have attracted acclaim from the media and

Focus su spalle e maniche chez Emanuel Ungaro, dove Fausto Puglisi ripropone il massimalismo anni ’80 arricchendolo di ruche iper-decorative che ‘gonfiano’ i profili di mini-abiti, top e gonne. Queste ultime, dal mini al midi, hanno, in certi casi, p

PARIS October 3, 2016 The runway strewn with hand-woven rugs dictated the mood for Sarah Burton’s new collection for Alexander McQueen, inspired by the harsh, wild beauty of the Shetland Isles, with its landscapes, nature and traditions such as the ‘

PARIS October 1, 2016 A declaration of love “for the women who have taught me everything I know, for Italy, for my mother and for Vivienne Westwood.” The new collection from Andreas Kronthaler, who has been heading the brand for over a year now, is p

PARIS October 2, 2016 Demna Gvasalia’s latest collection for Balenciaga again featured statement shoulders, here extended further by whalebone rods that made for ‘monstrous’ proportions in trenches and boxy jackets. The real news was his use of Spand

PARIS September 29, 2016 Sebastien Meunier from Ann Demeulemeester focuses on a destructured, tailored look, constantly varying light and shade with a contrast of black and white, glossy and matt, transparent and opaque. Taking to the catwalk are mos

PARIS October 2, 2016 Fashion that is conceptual yet still wearable and creative. As always, Phoebe Philo for Celine let the clothes do the talking, presenting them in a space designed by artist Dan Graham, with a series of metallic screens delimitin

PARIS September 29, 2016 While turning away from sinuous and hyper-sexy lines, Olivier Rousteing for Balmain showed a collection that was still designed for proud, bodyconfident women, as revealed by sky high splits, deep necklines, cut-outs and tran

PARIS September 30, 2016 Accessories fitted with sensors that monitor heart rate, breath rate and brain waves. In collaboration with Intel, Chalayan presented a collection boosted by ‘wearable technology’, i.e. a pair of glasses and a connected belt

PARIS October 4, 2016 After supermarkets, bistrots and airports, what was Karl Lagerfeld lacking if not a giant mainframe computer complete with coloured lights and cables? This provided the backdrop for Chanel’s ladies, or girls rather, given that t

PARIS September 29, 2016 Less adventurous and more urban than last season but always carefree, the Chloe girl loves the lightness of fluid, and in some cases oversize, shapes: from comfortable boxy blouses with wide, extra-long sleeves to soft bermud

PARIS October 1, 2016 Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garcons continues to challenge the fashion establishment with her creations that transcend fashion itself to become containers of meaning, which is not always comprehensible or unequivocal but nonethel

PARIS September 30, 2016 As one of the t-shirts on the runway proclaimed, the ‘Dio(r)evolution’ has begun. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first collection for the label was inspired by fencing, a largely gender-free sport. For Chiuri this was a feminist wardr

PARIS September 28, 2016 Just like the flowers encased in great blocks of ice by artist Azuma Makoto lining the Dries Van Noten runway, so the Oriental floral motifs imposed their poetic delicacy on oversize coats, structured jackets, silky bombers a

PARIS October 1, 2016 “It’s about dancing — the disco, the seventies!” Elie Saab’s enthusiasm for the seventies translates into garments with a star as the main thread decorating various types of multicoloured, glossy, asymmetric minidresses, covered

PARIS September 30, 2016 A homage to the ’80s with its excesses and hedonism. Fausto Puglisi for Ungaro translated the maximalism of the age into exasperated volumes, putting ruches onto shoulders, trims and collars that were so lofty in some of the

PARIS October 3, 2016 After 35 years in business, King Giorgio took his Emporio Armani line to Paris for the first time, celebrating an ideal journey that stretched all the way to India. The symbol of the collection was a little lucky elephant taken

PARIS October 2, 2016 The new Givenchy collection was shown in the gardens of the Natural History Museum. Riccardo Tisci purged it of any gothic or dark elements, showing only big agate pendants and geometric prints alternating with designs of semi-p

PARIS October 3, 2016 A lace bra is turning out to the iconic piece for next summer and Giambattista Valli chose a black one to show off under floral mini-dresses, jackets and zipped overcoats, and long sheer chiffon dresses, which also revealed matc

PARIS October 1, 2016 “Order and chaos”. This is how Haider Ackermann summed up his summer collection backstage - far from the enveloping shapes and draping seen in his usual work. Here Ackermann focused on exact tailoring, with masculine suits featu

PARIS October 3, 2016 Even Hermes luxury goes hand in hand with everyday life, so a certain practicality does not go amiss, especially if it is also on-trend, as seen with all the workwear and utilitarian details on the latest runways. So there were

PARIS September 29, 2016 For this show there was no particular inspiration other than everyday life, so the clothes were functional and combined street and sportswear, utilitarian pieces and bohemian romanticism. Isabel Marant, who counts many Millen

PARIS October 2, 2016 Revealing the underwear without being vulgar. A success story for Bill Gaytten for John Galliano, who collaborated with Velvette, the Parisian lingerie label, to produce triangle bras and panties in silk satin clearly visible un

PARIS October 4, 2016 Carol Lim and Humberto Leon recreated the atmosphere of Studio 54 through the illustrations of artist Antonio Lopez, who frequented the club at the same time as Kenzo Takada. His polaroids of well-known faces such as Jerry Hall

PARIS October 1, 2016 The Berlin aesthetic of cultures and subcultures spanning punk and cyberpunk to goth and neo-hippy met the ethereal three-dimensionality of veiled geometric figures covering part or all of the body. Below (or above): colourful t

PARIS September 28, 2016 A new debut at Lanvin, where Bouchra Jarrar reworked the brand dna by applying her own tailoring skill to a mix of masculine and feminine with plenty of incursions into lingerie. The end result was a series of fluid looks pla

PARIS October 5, 2016 Louis Vuitton’s show took place in the future home of the brand’s new flagship store in Place Vendome 2. Whether it was the central location or because Ghesquiere says “I didn’t explore that much yet the sophistication part of L

PARIS September 28, 2016 Everything and the opposite of everything from John Galliano for Maison Margiela, but there was a leitmotiv in this collection and it was the futuristic look of the models, resembling so many space creatures with asymmetric e

PARIS October 1, 2016 A touch of purple in Guillaume Henry’s collection for Nina Ricci, which celebrated Parisian allure by transforming the brand’s romantic, bon-ton bourgeois elegance into sporty casual with touches of street and workwear, though n

PARIS September 29, 2016 Drapes and twists. Rick Owens focused mainly on these two details to transform dresses into swirls of tulle that climbed and wrapped around the body. The sculpted tops were reinforced by ‘wings’ made of buckram cloth, a mater

PARIS September 28, 2016 Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s first big message from his new Rochas collection was ‘colour’, which he said he took from artist Erwin Blumenfeld, one of the first photographers to experiment with colour in the ’50s. So there were pa

PARIS September 27, 2016 A 1982 dress with puff sleeves; following the departure of Hedi Slimane, Anthony Vaccarello chose to go back to Eighties Yves Saint Laurent and give it a hyper-sexy, aggressive edge. Black leather, patent and lame dominated t

PARIS October 3, 2016 What do today’s women want? A little lightness would certainly be good, and if a dress can do it, then why not? Stella McCartney has a special talent for understanding women’s desires, and she caters to them in this new ecosusta

PARIS September 30, 2016 In 1937, Jean Cocteau staged ‘Oedipus Rex’. Coco Chanel, who designed the costumes, wrapped actor Jean Marais in bondage-style white bandages, which featured in this show in black around the arms and chests of the early exits

PARIS October 3, 2016 Dedicated to Sonia Rykiel, who passed away on August 25, the new collection from Julie de Libran celebrated her bold free spirit with loose, comfortable shapes. Drawing inspiration from work uniforms, oversize cassocks with extr

There was a sense of curiosity and expectation on the London catwalks for the first shows since the Brexit vote. It was legitimate to wonder what influence it would have on fashion, not only considering the market but also the ideas presented by bran

C’era curiosità e attesa sulle passerelle londinesi per queste prime sfilate dopo il voto che ha portato la Gran Bretagna fuori dall’Unione Europea. Era legittimo chiedersi che influenza avrebbe avuto la Brexit sulla moda, non considerando solo il me

LONDON September 18, 2016 A collection dedicated to two motorcycling heroines who rode their bikes coast-to-coast across America one hundred years ago. Looking at the outfits imagined by Belstaff was like seeing Augusta and Adeline Van Buren on their

LONDON September 19, 2016 There were no genders or seasons in this Burberry collection. A homage to Virginia Woolf’s Orlando was mixed with the brand’s history, culminating in the masculine meeting the feminine and the past the present with no distin

LONDON September 19, 2016 A fascination with the unfinished was the leitmotiv of Antonio Berardi’s collection, which drew inspiration from the words of Leonardo da Vinci: “Art is never finished, only abandoned”, to offer a night & day women’s wardrob

LONDON September 19, 2016 Christopher Kane says he loves a challenge and calls himself an alchemist. And the Scottish designer put a range of references into his alembics this time, mixing haute elements with domestic, intimate pieces. One immediatel

LONDON September 18, 2016 Ruffles and studs, rigid lines and exagerated volumes, sensuality and modesty. David Koma brings a collection of perfectly mixed contradictions to the catwalk. The Georgian designer, bred in St. Petersburg, has not betrayed

LONDON September 17, 2016 Bringing the mood of Henry VIII’s period to today would be easy if it were just a sterile allusion. This is not the case for J.W.Anderson, who reinvented a style by taking the moves of the past and making an extraordinarily

LONDON September 17, 2016 Special women, part saints part warriors. Gareth Pugh’s heroines strode the catwalk comfortably dressed in sculptural clothes that harked back to the decadence of the Roman Empire. Volume is imperative and geometry is an ele

LONDON September 17, 2016 The catwalk is the natural home for Julian Macdonald’s collections, who re-imagines a woman cinched into evening dresses embellished with swarovski, beads, sequins and sparkling leather. The few colours used – black, white,

LONDON September 18, 2016 An optical take on ancient Greece. Mary Katrantzou’s collection encompassing two worlds was extremely up-to-date. It was a journey to the designer’s Greek roots and reinterpreted the symbols of her culture. The prints were a

LONDON September 18, 2016 Paul Smith is obsessed with flowers. The English designer returned to his classic motif, making it the symbol of friendship and good company. The collection was practical and comfortable at the same time. The clothes rested

LONDON September 19, 2016 The long-standing Scottish brand took its history and made it extraordinarily up-to-date by presenting a rustically refined collection. Pringle of Scotland is obviously designed for city women but the selection of materials,

LONDON September 17, 2016 Simone Rocha imagined a romantic woman jumping over puddles in her pure white dresses. The designer managed to reconcile the elegance of lace and needlework with practicality, placing her models in rubber boots perfectly sui

LONDON September 18, 2016 Topshop Unique pays homage to the new wave and to London punk by revisiting them in an almost middleclass version compared to the scene which made history in fashion and dress. The design in this key is desirable (and immedi

LONDON September 17, 2016 Clubbing, in style. For Versus, Donatella Versace has taken motifs dear to the Medusa - night-time atmospheres and streetwear elements - and shaken them into a collection that manages to have a bon-ton feel. The biker jacket