Taste of the South

Lexington, Kentucky

LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY, is known for many things. It’s been dubbed the horse capital of the world for its more than 400 horse farms and legendary thoroughbred racetracks. It’s home to a flourishing bourbon industry anchored by nine local distilleries. The city is also the heart of the Bluegrass region where rolling hills of pastoral plains are worth the scenic drive. But when it comes to cuisine, carne asada-filled burritos and birria tacos probably aren’t what you envision for Lexington.

The second largest city in the state, Lexington is home to a fast-growing Latino population, one that has more than doubled in size in recent decades and influenced the area’s culture quietly but swiftly. It was the horse-racing and agriculture industries that originally drew much of the Latino population to Lexington. Seeking economic opportunities, people from across Latin America—from Mexico to Guatemala, Honduras, and beyond—moved to Kentucky to build a future for their families. But during the ’80s and ’90s, Lexington was much different than it is today. There were neither panaderías nor tortillerías nor much of anything familiar to Latino immigrants.

“During that time, there was nobody around. In Paris, Lexington, Versailles—I think there were 45, maybe 50 [Latino] people,” Laura Ramírez says. “It was hard. I didn’t speak any English; I’d say most of the [Latino]

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