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  • Country Life

    Small, but mighty

    Feb 10, 2021 2 minutes
    Tom Parker Bowles

    FOR such a small fish, the anchovy packs a mighty punch. Not in its fresh form or even marinated, Spanish boquerones and Italian alici, all soft, silvery succulence. No, I mean those cured fillets, packed into salt or submerged in olive oil, lightly beige and deeply intense.

    As I write, I have a tin open at my right hand —Ortiz,

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