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  • Country Life

    The future’s bright, the future’s sparkling

    Nov 25, 2020 5 minutes
    Photographs by Daniel Gould

    ENGLISH sparkling wine, and English wine in general, used to be considered a somewhat eccentric and quixotic enterprise. The story was of a few retired majors in the South Downs indulging a hobby or a not very realistic dream. All that has changed. The transformation is not only about numbers—total production of English and Welsh wine is up from 5.9 million bottles in 2017 to 10.5 million bottles in 2019, with sales reaching 5.5 million bottles in 2019, up 70% on 2018, and total vineyard area hitting 8,844 acres, up 83% since 2015—or the success of serious producers with hard-nosed, long-term business plans, such as Denbies in Surrey, Chapel Down in Kent and Nyetimber in West Sussex. Above all, it’s about quality and potential.

    ‘It has a pioneering spirit, a unique and nervy

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