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    Underwear And Lingerie - Underwear And Lingerie, Part 1, Underwear And Lingerie, Part 2
    Underwear And Lingerie - Underwear And Lingerie, Part 1, Underwear And Lingerie, Part 2
    Underwear And Lingerie - Underwear And Lingerie, Part 1, Underwear And Lingerie, Part 2
    Ebook237 pages2 hours

    Underwear And Lingerie - Underwear And Lingerie, Part 1, Underwear And Lingerie, Part 2

    By Anon Anon

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    About this ebook

    Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherGreenbie Press
    Release dateAug 6, 2020
    ISBN9781528763615
    Underwear And Lingerie - Underwear And Lingerie, Part 1, Underwear And Lingerie, Part 2

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      Underwear And Lingerie - Underwear And Lingerie, Part 1, Underwear And Lingerie, Part 2 - Anon Anon

      UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

      (PART 1)

      ADVANTAGES OF MAKING UNDERWEAR

      1.Feminine Appeal.—Smart clothes always intrigue the woman who is interested in her appearance. But there is something so appealing about dainty undergarments that there’s no woman living who is not charmed by them and eager to have all the different varieties she needs. This desire she can satisfy when she is able to make them herself because of the saving possible. And not only can she have a sufficient number, but she can fit them to her individual figure perfectly and plan them to suit the outer garments with which she will wear them.

      2.Characteristics of Good Underwear.—Lingerie should be dainty, practical, and, for general wear, simple. At the same time, it must always be remembered that carefully fitted and correctly designed undergarments are a necessity if outer garments are to be properly effective. A well-groomed appearance really means correctness in every detail. And there is nothing that adds so much to a woman’s poise and assurance as the feeling that her undergarments as well as her outer ones are in harmony with each other as well as right for the occasion.

      The saying, The art of being well-dressed is not so much a matter of expense as of discrimination, holds true in connection with lingerie, as well as in the choice of dresses, suits, and wraps. Even the most inexpensive undergarments, if carefully chosen, will express as much refinement, good taste, and common sense as the most elaborate and expensive ones. And, no matter how meager may be her purse, every woman can have dainty, neat, well-fitting lingerie if she chooses her materials carefully and her designs wisely, and if she does her sewing skilfully.

      3.Economy.—When you choose materials and trimmings that are of reasonably good quality, as should be your aim in everything you make, and develop them into carefully made and well-fitted garments, you will have lingerie that will give you the greatest amount of wear for a small expenditure of money. And this is the best form of economy. Of course, the time spent in making undergarments must be considered. But the methods are so simple and so much of the finishing can be done in one’s leisure moments that the actual time given to cutting and construction, provided machine stitching is used for most of the seams, is comparatively short.

      4.Suitability.—One of the most pleasant features of lingerie planning is that what you make can so readily be suited to your figure, your outer garments, and the amount you have to spend. The assurance that your slips, brassières, combinations, and panties will exactly fit you, will snug the figure where they should and at the same time have the necessary ease, comes as a matter of course when such garments are planned, cut, and fitted for the needs of your figure.

      Then, too, your lingerie can always be planned with your frocks in mind, whether they are intended for sports or dress, or for general all-around service, thus doing away completely with the experience that most of us have had, namely, shopping without results for a slip or some other undergarment to wear under a particular dress. Often these can be found at a price that is beyond our means. But if you select your materials wisely and cut and make them with skill, you will be able to have all the lingerie you need for the amount you can afford to spend for it.

      5.Materials.—In the features to be sought in lingerie material, the one of most importance is the quality of firm smoothness that fashion demands for a proper foundation. For, no matter how well-planned a garment may be or how perfectly it is made, it will not assist the outer garments in presenting the right effect unless the material chosen for it is of the right type. Next, it should be durable in order to withstand the frequent laundering that undergarments must have. After this, consider ease of seam finish, cost, daintiness, and color when you choose lingerie materials.

      Silks and rayons in the smooth, firm weaves are generally considered first choice for undergarments. The flat crêpes, being materials of this type, are especially suited to lingerie construction. Crêpe satin, radium, Georgette crêpe, and the heavy sheers are also used when more elaborate effects are desired. For service wear, pongee is sometimes selected.

      In cotton, batiste, crêpe, voile, nainsook, longcloth, and crossbarred effects are all practical and suitable. It must be remembered, however, that outer garments are likely to cling to cotton undergarments, while they slide smoothly over silk or rayon ones. Handkerchief linen makes exquisite lingerie and, while it crushes readily and does not wear as well as other lingerie fabrics, it is sometimes used for the nicest types.

      6.Color.—In years past, practically all lingerie was made up in white material, whether silk, cotton, or linen was used. Now, however, the flesh and tea rose shades are much seen, although for special purposes, such as for wear under sheer summer frocks or under white materials or those having a white ground, white is considered most satisfactory. Other light colors, such as blue, orchid, beige, gray, and yellow, are sometimes selected, as is black for wear under black dresses, especially for mourning and for evening wear.

      In spite of the enthusiasm over colored underwear, it must be kept in mind that good taste does not allow of a general use of colorful lingerie under transparent outer clothing. Exception is made in the case of a slip, which may provide the means of emphasizing a particularly pleasing color contrast, when Fashion favors this feature, although under sheer dresses, a matching slip is usually preferred.

      7.Trimming.—The manner of trimming lingerie divides it into two types: the tailored, which is the plain, or almost untrimmed, kind, and the feminine sort, in which dainty materials and trimming of lace are employed for a rich effect. Both types have their uses, it being really a matter of personal taste as to which sort is worn. Of course, some concession must always be made to suitability, for naturally elaborately lace-trimmed lingerie has no place on the tennis court nor under a house dress. However, a restrained use of both forms of trimming is never in bad taste. Then, too, there are the fancy finishes which can always be employed to advantage, such as novelty scallops, facings, contrasting bindings, and seamings, all adding to the decorative value of an undergarment without taking away too much of its simplicity and its suitability for general service wear. And hand embroidery is a trimming which many persons prefer.

      8.Style Influence.—Though the use of trimming is regulated, to a certain extent, by the style of outer garments, the cut and design of lingerie are most definitely affected by what is to be worn over it. It naturally follows that slim undergarments are used when narrow skirts are in vogue, that fulness in dresses brings about fulness in underwear, and that the flare at the bottom of a circular skirt is quite likely to be repeated in one’s slips or chemises. In the same way, a vogue for sports dresses will bring about a vogue for severity in undergarments, while the wearing of lace-trimmed lingerie frocks usually calls for a similar type of costume slip or chemise.

      In every case, however, the proper restraint must be used, so that any seasonal novelty will not take away from the correctness of cut and finish, which, after all, are the most important features of lingerie making. A knowledge of the smart silhouette is a necessity if underwear is to be correctly made. The silhouette should not be exaggerated but followed sensibly so that each new variation of fashion in outer apparel will be discreetly reflected in the garments worn underneath.

      9.Patterns.—As a rule, it is best to use a pattern for the lingerie you make. However, after deciding on a particular type and procuring a cutting guide for it, you can make up any number of garments over the same lines, all exactly alike, if you prefer them that way, or varied as to fabric, color, or trimming. When a pattern is to be used a number of times, it is an excellent plan to cut it from a heavy paper of good quality, after first having made any alterations found necessary in fitting, so that it will give the best possible service. If you follow this plan, be careful to watch the fashion changes so that you will not be using a pattern you have on hand after new features are being introduced in the new commercial patterns.

      10.Applying Sewing Principles.—In the pages that follow, a number of undergarments are presented. These are of varied types, from the dressy to the tailored, and they embody all sorts of finishes and trimmings. From them, you will be able to get suggestions for whatever undergarments of these kinds you wish to make.

      Accompanying each group are instructions for the way to make the various details that the undergarments include. Once you have learned how to make them, you may apply the knowledge to the undergarments that you make from time to time. The styles, colors, materials, and trimmings of lingerie may change, but seldom do the principles of making. Seams, hems, facings, bindings, darts, and many other details of construction, when mastered in reference to certain garments and materials, can be applied to other garments and materials where they are suitable. So, constantly keep in touch with the new styles in underwear by studying them in the shops and fashion books, and then apply the principles given here to whatever garments you plan to make.

      CHEMISES

      NATURE OF CHEMISES

      11.In its original form, the chemise was a straight one-piece garment, rather scantily made and intended to be worn next to the skin and under the corset. It

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