Sandia Mountain Hiking Guide, Revised and Expanded Edition

INTRODUCTION TO THE REVISED AND EXPANDED EDITION

In the dozen years since this hiking guide was first published, routes and trail access have undergone a number of changes. New trails have been added, access points and trailheads have closed in a few cases, and important trail reroutes have occurred.

This revised edition of the Sandia Mountain Hiking Guide has been expanded and updated to reflect the trail system as of 2018. Seven new trail descriptions are included in the current edition, including several shorter trails for hikers of all ages and abilities. Throughout the book, about two dozen family-friendly hikes (easy trails or intermediate destinations along some of the longer routes) are called out; they are listed in the new Appendix 3 near the end of the book. Reroutes and extensions to twelve of the trails in the original edition are described here and are reflected in the new maps.

The difficulty rating listed for several trails in the book has been modified, for example, from Moderate to Difficult, to help readers carefully select the right hike for their experience and fitness level. In addition, SAFETY FIRST advice is given in cases where particular notice is important for hike preparation or experience level needed for a given trail.

Since the publication of the first edition, GPS technology has improved. The GPS coordinates of waypoints (points of special interest) that appear at the end of the book (Appendix 4) have been updated. Over the past couple of years, I have hiked all of the outings described in the book to record more accurate trail tracks, and all of the maps in the book have been recreated to include them.

General Information

SANDIA MOUNTAINS

The Sandia Mountains prevail over the eastern skyline of Albuquerque and provide a constant point of reference and orientation for all who live near. They dominate the local weather patterns. The Sandias form a natural boundary for the city’s eastern spread. They are simultaneously lush and arid, wilderness and tourist destination.

Rising to 10,678 feet at the Crest, with over 400 square miles in area, recreational opportunities abound in the Sandia Mountains. They offer cool relief from summer heat, recreation in winter snow, and a place to enjoy stunning natural settings just minutes from the city’s crowded streets.

In Tiwa, the language of Native Americans living in the Isleta and Sandia pueblos, the mountain is called Oku Pin (turtle mountain); in the related Tewa tongue it is Bien Mur (big mountain). Sandia is the Spanish word for watermelon. The most popular explanation for the name origin comes from the pink hue that the granite face of the mountain acquires just at sunset, the color of watermelon. The actual name origin is probably less romantic. Spanish explorers visiting the Tiwa pueblo (now called Sandia) in the 1540s mistakenly believed that large gourds growing in the settlement were watermelons. The name was probably transferred to the pueblo and then to the mountains.

LIFE ZONES

Four of the six ecosystem life zones of North America can be found in the Sandia Mountains. Ascending in elevation from the base of the mountains to Sandia Crest is equivalent to a trip from the Sonoran Desert in Mexico to the Hudson Bay in Canada. Only the Lower Sonoran life zone (far southern latitudes) and the Alpine life zone (far north) are not represented in the Sandia Mountains.

The vegetation found between 6,000 feet and 7,500 feet elevation is characteristic of the Upper Sonoran zone, which has hot summers, mild winters, and modest precipitation. This zone features cactus, chamisa, piñon-juniper forests, gray oak, cottonwood (near water), and box elder trees. The Transition life zone is found between about 7,500 feet and 8,200 feet, with mild weather in the summer and cold winters, often with substantial snowfall. The ponderosa pine is dominant in this zone. Other common trees are the Gambel oak (scrub oak) and the piñon. Higher up the mountain, the Canadian zone is found between about 8,200 feet and 10,000 feet, with cool summers, cold winters, and lots of moisture. Common trees found in this range include the Douglas fir, white fir, and aspen. Above about 10,000 feet is the Hudsonian life zone, in which summers are cool, winters are very cold, and snowfall is considerable. At these highest elevations, Engelmann spruce, white fir, and aspen are common.

Figure 1. Lower portion of Embudito Trail, characteristic of the Upper Sonoran life zone. Photo by Rick Schneider.

GEOLOGY

The Sandias were formed 5 to 10 million years ago when a massive block of the earth’s crust tilted up, forming the craggy western face of the mountain. At one time the height of the western face was as much as 20,000 feet. However, the far western face gradually broke away as the Rio Grande Valley dropped beneath it. The crumbled rock below the surface of the current riverbed accounts for the aquifer holding huge amounts of water beneath the river valley.

At the top of the Sandia Mountains, visible from the west, are alternating bands of shale and limestone formed from ocean sediments 250 to 300 million years ago. Below this is Precambrian granite formed 1.4 billion years ago from cooling magma. The huge face of the Shield, formed from this granite, dominates the northern profile of the mountain as viewed from most of Albuquerque. For additional information, see the book entitled Geology of the Sandia Mountains and Vicinity, New Mexico listed in the Additional Reading section.

HUMAN HABITATION

Early groups of people lived in Las Huertas Canyon in the northeast portion of the Sandias 10,000 or more years ago. Artifacts from their presence were discovered in the Sandia Cave, excavated in the 1930s. The area was inhabited by groups of hunting people for thousands of years. The lives of these natives eventually became more agriculture based, and groups of people began banding together, developing into the New Mexico Pueblo people. The mountain range remains a sacred place for the adjoining Sandia Pueblo. Spanish influence in the area began in the 1500s with expeditions in search of gold traveling up the Rio Grande Valley. The adjacent city of Albuquerque has experienced rapid growth since World War II. Today Albuquerque, with a population of more than a half million, presses against the western foothills of the Sandias.

ADMINISTRATION

The Sandia Mountains form part of the Cibola National Forest, administered by the Sandia Ranger District. Main offices for the Cibola National Forest are located at 2113 Osuna Road NE, Suite A, Albuquerque, NM 87113-1001; phone (505) 346-3900.

The ranger station and offices for the Sandia Ranger District are on New Mexico 337, one half mile south of New Mexico 333 (old Route 66), in Tijeras, NM; phone (505) 281-3304. The ranger station is a great source of information about the mountains, and I recommend visiting there.

Figure 2. Forest service trailhead sign providing a map of the Sandia Mountain trail system and information on wildlife and safety. Photo by Mike Coltrin.

Almost half of the mountain, 37,232 acres, was designated as the Sandia Mountain Wilderness Area in 1979. Special rules and conditions are in place to preserve the Wilderness Area in its natural state. By federal regulation, within the Wilderness all wheeled mechanisms (except wheelchairs), including motorized equipment, mechanized equipment, bicycles, wagons, carts, and wheelbarrows, are prohibited. Chainsaws are also prohibited. Permanent structures are not allowed except for preexisting structures of historical value. No organized competitive events, such as footraces, can be held within the Wilderness Area. (An exception is made for the annual La Luz Trail race.) Boundaries of the Wilderness Area are generally marked with signage and designated on maps of the area.

ANIMAL LIFE

The Sandia Mountains are home to six different species of amphibians, 58 species of mammals, 34 species of reptiles, and 253 species of birds. The larger mammals include mule deer, black bear, bobcats, badgers, and porcupines. Wild turkeys were reintroduced into the Sandias by the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish in 2004, and they have grown into a healthy population across the mountain range. A few mountain lions still roam the Sandia Mountains; their population is hard to know, but is likely less than five.

Do not feed or leave food for the wildlife in the mountains. Doing so causes the animals to associate human contact with an easy source of food, which will lead to inappropriate aggressive behavior and great problems. The harsh, but realistic, phrase from the US National Park Service is a fed animal is a dead animal.

Hiking in the Sandias

WHAT TO TAKE ALONG

Day Pack

I always carry a day pack (small backpack) whenever I hike. When hiking to remote portions of the mountain, you need to be prepared for an unexpected overnight stay. A fall, broken bone, or other injury may prevent you from hiking out on your own. You need to be prepared to stay dry and warm in case you have to be out in the elements overnight until help arrives. The odds are that you will not have such an emergency. But unless you prepare for one, a bad situation could quickly escalate into a life-threatening one.

Packing List

I have my day pack full of the items listed below. Although it seems like a lot of preparation, I just leave it packed from week to week and know that it is ready to go anytime I head out the door. I carry extra articles of clothing wrapped in plastic bags to keep them dry, including an extra-heavy top layer, a stocking cap, and a bandana. In plastic baggies I carry other supplies, including an LED flashlight, extra batteries, Band-Aids, matches, squares of newspaper, a cigarette lighter, lip balm, a whistle, twine / strong cord, shoelaces, and a small first-aid kit. In addition, I carry the following: a compass, sunscreen, a windbreaker, a pocketknife, a rain poncho, and an extra set of car keys. Whew! I will probably never have to use most of these things, but I’d rather have it and not need it than . . . (you know the rest).

Water

Always carry plenty of water on any hike. I always take at least two liters of water. I sometimes partially fill a water bottle and put it in the freezer the night before. I fill it the rest of the way with water right before I leave the house and have cold water for the whole hike.

There are a few springs in the Sandia Mountains. However, you should not consider any water sources in the Sandia Mountains to be drinkable without appropriate mechanical filtration, chemical treatment, or boiling. Such springs often run dry and generally cannot be relied upon as water sources.

Plan on carrying all of the water that you need for a day hike in the Sandias. Backpackers hiking the length of the Crest Trail often replenish their supply with water at the Crest House or the upper Tram terminal.

Food

I always carry a lunch or supply of snacks (and plenty of extras) to enjoy along the way. If you end up having to spend the night on the mountains, a supply of extra food will help keep your energy up.

Clothing

The standard advice is to dress in layers. Be sure that you have the clothes you need to keep warm. You can always peel off layers and stuff them in your day pack as you get warmer. Temperatures at the top of the mountain when the sun is waning might be 20 degrees cooler than when you started on a hike, so be prepared for a range of temperatures on any given day. I would recommend that you always wear a hat to protect your face and ears from the rays of the sun, as well as to keep your head cooler when it’s hot and warmer when it’s cold.

Hiking Boots

Although not strictly necessary, I would recommend hiking in a good pair of hiking boots. Many, if not most, of the trails can be rocky, uneven, and sometimes slick. Hiking boots will protect your feet and give you much better footing. Most importantly, a good pair of hiking boots will protect you from a turned ankle. You do not want to get 5 miles from the nearest trailhead and wind up with a sprained ankle as the sun starts sinking in the sky.

Modern hiking socks are really good, particularly when used with thin socks next to your feet. Visit a sporting goods store to purchase a nice pair of hiking socks, such as a blend of wool and polyester. Such socks provide warmth and cushioning and are breathable to wick moisture away, keeping your feet dry.

Hike with a Friend

I do not recommend hiking alone in the mountains. Not only will you enjoy the companionship of sharing the outdoor experience if you hike with a friend but in the case of an emergency you (or your partner) can always go for help.

If you do choose to hike alone, you must make sure to tell someone else your hiking plans. Tell a friend the route that you plan to hike and the approximate time that you will return. At the minimum, leave this same information on the dashboard of your car as you park at the trailhead. As I prepared the first edition of this hiking guide, a solo hiker tragically died in the Sandia Mountains because no one knew that she was missing until several days after she had become lost.

Dogs

Many people enjoy bringing their dogs along while hiking in the Sandias. This can be good exercise for the family pet and gives the dog an opportunity to enjoy the outdoors. However, you need to be responsible when taking your dog on a hike. Regulations require that dogs be on a leash at all times in the Sandia Mountains. Take along a plastic grocery sack to pack out any droppings that your dog deposits along the way. Be sure to take extra water for your dog; he can become dehydrated even faster than you. Also, when hiking over rocky areas, be aware of the condition of the soft pads on your dog’s paws.

Cell Phones

A cell phone could prove invaluable in an emergency to summon help for a lost or injured hiker, so take it along on your hike. However, cell phone coverage in some places may be poor or nonexistent—for example, in deep canyons without a line of sight toward the city. Ridges generally provide better coverage than canyon bottoms. (See the section titled If You Get Lost.)

Maps

A large, double-sided topographic map is included with this book. It is important to learn to read this contour map and always to have a good idea where you are on the mountain. I keep a map in my day pack while hiking and refer to it along my hike. There are also more than two dozen smaller maps included inside this book to provide more detailed information on the terrain and landmarks associated