The Culinary Canine: Great Chefs Cook for Their Dogs - And So Can You!
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The Culinary Canine - Kathryn Levy Feldman
Cosme Aguilar
and Henry
Executive Chef/Part Owner
Bar Henry
New York, New York
Ten years ago, Manhattan native and real estate investor Winston Kulok wandered into an antiques shop in Hudson, New York. What caught his eye were the youngest items in the store—a few absolutely arresting Maltese puppies. They were all fabulous, but one was clearly a champion,
the affable restaurateur recounts. When he learned that the puppies were indeed for sale, Winston realized that he didn’t have any cash to pay for his chosen champ. I told the woman to hold him for me,
he says. Winston drove back to the city, retrieved some money, and turned around to claim the puppy. When she gave him to me, the owner cried and warned me that he might get carsick,
he recalls. Henry (named after Henry Hudson) did no such thing. He sat on Winston’s lap the entire way home and firmly wedged himself into Winston’s heart.
It was no surprise, then, that when Winston and his wife, Carole Bergman, decided to go into the restaurant business in 2001, they chose the winsome Henry as their muse. Their first venture was a small café named Café Henri in Greenwich Village, and they joined forces with executive chef Cosme Aguilar. Cosme moved to New York in 1998 from Chiapas, Mexico, where his culinary training took place under the watchful eyes of his mother, who was known as one of the town’s best cooks. In fact, Cosme, his brother, and his sister all were her apprentices, especially when she prepared elaborate meals for special neighborhood celebrations. The free-roaming dogs in town were also fed well by Cosme and his animal-loving family.
Once in New York, Cosme fell in love with French cooking, influenced no doubt by his jobs at Le Solex, Orsay, and Les Deux Gamins, all well-known and highly regarded French restaurants. It was during his eight-year tenure at Les Deux Gamins as both chef and general manager, however, that Cosme began to make his mark as one of New York’s most creative chefs. It was also there that he met and eventually partnered with Winston.
Always inspired by Henry, their first venture was Café Henri in the West Village, followed by its sister location in Long Island City, and now Bar Henry, also in the Village. If Café Henri represents Henry’s French alter ego, then Bar Henry, opened in 2009—with its rich copper ceiling and bar top, antique brass lighting, black-and-white marble tile floor, and stunning 1890s bar—is his old New York
incarnation. The menu, according to Cosme, is American bistro
with his own unique twist, including a subtle French influence.
As for Henry, well, he is loved by everyone—especially by Cosme, who regards him as much more than the team mascot and good-luck charm. How could you not love Henry?
Cosme wonders. Henry’s personality, energy, and inquisitive, knowing gaze (as well as the unconditional love he showers on everyone) make him one of the most valuable team members! It feels good to see his photo over the bar as I walk into work every day,
says Cosme, who admits to sneaking samples to Henry. Henry knows where to come for treats as well as a good belly rub. We’ve known each other for a long time.
All of the people involved in our restaurants are family,
Winston elaborates. "It comes from a feeling that Henry