Food For Thought

Somebody People offers Denver eaters proof that vegan cooking can be just as interesting as any other sort of restaurant food. It’s subtle about its veganism, though. You can be well along into a meal there without realizing what exactly you’re not eating. The menu, while obviously meat- and seafood-free, makes no noise about its dairy or egg restrictions. Servers offer no philosophy unless asked, and the website only promises a “vegetableforward dining experience.” But I don’t think co-owners Tricia and Sam Maher are being coy. They and their crew simply set food on your table with a smile: Eat, enjoy.

One of the seven-month-old restaurant’s polestars is Vedge, the Philadelphia fine-dining establishment that reset