MALAYSIA ON THE MENU
ATAS
ith a name that means “above” in Malay, this casual-chic restaurant at The RuMa hotel (see page 95 for a review) offers elevated takes on the local fare that are as refined as its setting. Inside an open kitchen backed by a wall of Royal Selangor pewter tiles, young Canadian chef Tyson Gee uses seasonal produce gathered from around the Malay Peninsula in his modern creations. A gourmet version of the Peranakan pastry features crème. Pungent (a prized black nut) lends its characteristic depth and earthiness to corn-fed chicken with okra and fermented chili sauce. Leave room for dessert; Gee’s Pahang single-origin dark-chocolate crumble finds a worthy counterpoint in sorbets and ice creams with tropical flavors like jackfruit and roselle (.
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