WOMEN COLLECTIONS A/W 2019.20
he bourgeoisie, the class that has always been synonymous with social conventions and traditions, stamped its authority on the Paris runways, somewhat unsurprisingly. The explanation for this desire for normality and security could lie in the current atmosphere in France, which has seen riots on the demanding more social justice. A reaction to the chaos, a sort of restoration of that minimal, no frills fashion, an expression of cleanness, rigour, seriousness, juxtaposed against all the streetwear and sportswear on show. And yet, even the most tranquil bourgeois home conceals the seeds of rebellion. Indeed, the very existence of certain rules and standards is perhaps made to be broken, especially by those well-to-do young ladies who have it all and want exactly the opposite. Like Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent’s muse and close friend who inspired Giambattista Valli’s latest collection, who opposed her bourgeois background with her free spirit, love of idleness and unbridled hedonism. What was on show was precisely this kind of girl, perhaps not excessively rebellious but still a symbol of a . A world made up of free girls who are well dressed and charming but also fans of short hemlines and frivolous details. It’s a style in which the masculine element plays into a desire to liberate peerless femininity and sensuality. is gaining more and more space in the female wardrobe, taking on multifaceted forms of expressions - more romantic when paired with floral motifs and veiling, more strong-willed when boosted by voluminous shoulders and plunging necklines, with a general propensity for oversize. Finally, the trend is another expression of practicality but also an affirmation of a personal touch with mix & match and a varied colour palette dominated by patchwork, asymmetry and contrasts. And a certain exotic touch.
