Comme Ci, Comme Ça

LeRoux claims to be a European restaurant serving nouvelle cuisine, which strikes me as a bit odd. “Nouvelle cuisine” is vintage terminology these days, as relevant to modern French chefs as “office casual” would be to staffers dressing for work at Google. “European,” meanwhile, reminds me of starchy restaurants serving a bit of this and a bit of that from over there.

In fact, to me, LeRoux’s menu is haute-ish French, with an American accent and a tendency toward reinvention. On the one hand, it offers a straightforward foie gras mousse; on the other, there’s a mille-feuille-esque appetizer featuring many thin sheets of succulent mushroom instead of laminated pastry. Onion-crusted short rib with panko topping seems pretty New