Gun Digest Book of Centerfire Rifles Assembly/Disassembly, 4th Ed.

Argentine Model 1891 Mauser

Similar/Identical Pattern Guns

The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Argentine Model 1891 Mauser also apply to the following guns:

The Mauser of 1891 was used officially by Belgium, Spain, Turkey, and Argentina, and the latter version is one of the most well known, as it was made in larger quantity. Many of these finely-made guns have sold on the surplus market, and they are frequently encountered. This was the first Mauser rifle to have a box magazine and the first to have a one-piece bolt with opposed front locking lugs, a feature copied by everyone since that time. A carbine version of the Model 1891 was also made, and it was mechanically identical. The gun shown here has been sporterized.

Disassembly:

1. Open the bolt, hold the bolt stop pulled out to the left, and remove the bolt toward the rear.

2. Grip the underlug of the cocking piece firmly in a padded vise, and pull the bolt forward until a thin piece of steel can be inserted between the front of the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt sleeve. Release the spring tension, and the piece of steel will trap the striker at the rear.

3. Unscrew the bolt sleeve and striker assembly and remove it toward the rear, taking care not to dislodge the piece of steel holding the striker.

4. Grip the front of the striker firmly in a padded vise, and push the bolt sleeve forward, allowing the piece of steel to fall out. Continue forward with the sleeve until its rear edge is clear of the front edge of the cocking piece lug. Keep a firm grip on the bolt sleeve, as the striker spring is fully compressed. Unscrew the cocking piece, and remove it.

5. Slowly release the spring tension, and remove the bolt sleeve and striker spring toward the rear.

6. Remove the safety detent screw from the outer face of the safety-lever, and take out the spring and plunger. The spring is under tension, so control the screw and ease it out. Remove the safety-lever toward the rear.

7. Insert a screwdriver blade under the beak of the extractor and lift it just enough to clear its front underlug from its recess in the bolt. Lever the extractor off toward the front. Caution: These are often tightly fitted. If not necessary for repair, the extractor should not be removed.

8. If the gun still has a full military stock, unscrew the cleaning rod, depress the front barrel band latch on the underside of the stock, and slide the barrel band off toward the front. Loosen the sling loop screw in the rear barrel band, depress its latch and slide it off toward the front. If the original upper handguard is present, don’t attempt to remove it as it is held on by carefully twisted copper wire. Some Model 1891 rifles have a magazine catch at the front of the magazine, and this is rotated a half-turn. The magazine latch within the guard is then depressed, and the magazine removed downward. On the rifle shown, which lacks the front catch, the next step is to remove the vertical screw just forward of the magazine.

9. Remove the vertical screw on the underside, behind the trigger guard.

10. Remove the trigger guard and magazine downward, and separate the action from the stock.

11. Depress the magazine latch in the front of the trigger guard, and remove the magazine downward. The magazine latch and its spring are retained in the guard by a cross pin.

12. Remove the cross screw at the front of the magazine, and swing the floorplate all the way open. The follower arm and its attached spring and follower are then easily removed, and the parts separated by drifting out the cross pins and sliding the springs from their recesses.

13. The bolt stop is retained by a vertical pin at the left rear of the receiver, and the pin should be drifted out upward.

14. Remove the bolt stop assembly toward the left.

15. Remove the ejector from the bolt stop by pulling it out toward the front.

16. The bolt stop and ejector spring can be removed by backing out its screw, then sliding the spring out toward the front.

17. Drift out the sear cross pin, and remove the sear and trigger assembly toward the rear and downward.

18. Pushing out the trigger cross pin will allow separation of the trigger from the sear.

Reassembly Tips:

1. When replacing the sear and trigger assembly, insert a screwdriver behind the sear to lever it forward for insertion of the cross pin.

2. Before replacing the bolt stop retaining pin, insert a tapered drift punch to insure alignment of the ejector inside the bolt stop.

3. When replacing the bolt sleeve on the rear of the striker shaft, note that the shaft has a guide rib, and this must be aligned with a corresponding keyway inside the bolt sleeve.

Austrian Mannlicher Model 1895

Similar/Identical Pattern Guns

The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Austrian Mannlicher Model 1895 also apply to the following guns:

The Model 1895 was used by the Austro-Hungarian forces as a standard service rifle through World War I, and from 1897 it was also used by Bulgaria. The gun shown in our takedown sequence is the Bulgarian version. Mechanically, there is no difference. Some of these guns were arsenal-converted from their original 8×50mmR (or, later, 8×56mm) chambering to the German 8×57mm round. These are marked M95M on the receiver ring.

Disassembly:

1. Open the bolt, push the trigger forward, and remove the bolt toward the rear.

2. Turn the bolt head counter-clockwise (front view), into its locked position. If the head is very tight, use a screwdriver in the ejector slot to lever it.

3. Pull the cocking piece to the rear and unscrew it counter-clockwise (rear view), keeping rearward pressure so the sear-contact lug will clear the safety screw on each turn. Note that the screw-slotted tip of the striker shaft at the center of the cocking piece is not a screw, so do not attempt to turn it.

4. Remove the cocking piece toward the rear.

5. Turn the bolt head clockwise (front view) until the smaller bolt lug passes beneath the extractor.

6. When the bolt head is turned to the position shown, remove the extractor toward the front.

7. Remove the bolt head and striker assembly toward the front.

8. The striker and its spring can be removed from the bolt head by unscrewing the nut at the rear of the bolt head. Caution: The spring is under tension, so keep control of the nut as it is removed.

9. The safety is pivoted and retained at the rear of the bolt body by a small screw.

10. If the rifle has its full-length military stock, remove the front end piece and the barrel band. Remove the large screws on the underside at the front and rear of the magazine housing/guard unit.

11. Remove the magazine housing/trigger guard unit downward.

12. The screw at the rear of the housing retains the clip latch and its attached blade spring. After removal of the screw, this unit is taken out upward.

13. Remove the front cross screw in the housing.

14. Remove the magazine sub-frame downward.

15. The mainspring for the magazine system is retained by a large screw on the underside of the housing. The magazine follower arm is pivoted and retained by a cross pin, which is pushed out toward the right.

16. The magazine follower and its spring are retained on the arm by screws.

17. Remove the action from the stock.

18. Push out the cross pin of the trigger and sear system toward the left.

19. Remove the trigger and sear system downward. The trigger is a free unit, and will detach as the system is taken off.

20. Remove the sear upward.

21. Removal of the small cross pin in the forward extension of the sear lever will release the ejector and the combination sear and ejector spring.

22. To remove the rear sight, drift out the pivot cross pin. The adjustment slide can then be taken off the sight, and the blade spring can be pushed out of its mount.

23. The front sight is dovetail-mounted, and is drifted out toward the right for removal.

Reassembly Tips:

1. If the sear has been removed and the ejector and combination spring are still in place, it will be necessary to insert a tool to depress the spring as the sear is reinserted in the assembly.

2. If the striker and its spring have been taken out, note that on the final turn of the retaining nut the cuts in the nut must match the spiral track in the bolt head.

3. When replacing the bolt head in the bolt body, align the flat on the striker shaft, the ejector slot, and the bolt handle rib, as shown. When the bolt head spirals have engaged the lugs, insert the ejector. The bolt head must be in the extended position (unlocked) for reinsertion in the receiver.

Benelli R1

Despite being well known for their shotguns, Benelli also manufactures a big game hunting rifle called the R1. Experienced disassemblers will note the similarity to the MR-1 Tactical rifle (same guts different skin) and some passing similarity to the Benelli M4 shotgun. The gas systems are related. The R1 uses the same type of recoil-suppressing stock and recoil pad as the SBE2 and has, typically for Benelli guns, a very smooth action. Several chamberings are offered and it is also available with alternative finishes on the stock.

Disassembly:

1. Unscrew the forend nut from the forend (picture 1) and pull the forend forward off the rifle (picture 2). The nut is captive in the forend and should be left alone unless it is broken. A small roll pin accessible from the top of the forend holds the front and rear portions of the nut together. Do not further disassemble this nut assembly.

2. Remove this nut. Do not disassemble the nut assembly.

3. Pull the barrel forward. This will dislodge the barreled action from the lower receiver, bringing with it the bolt assembly.

4. Pull the piston assembly forward of the guide rod (picture 1). It will pass tightly over the gas seal o-rings at the front of the guide rod. The piston can be removed from the assembly by first removing this spring clip if necessary (picture 2).

5. Pull the charging handle all the way to the rear to the clearance cut, allow the bolt to drop slightly, and pull the charging handle out to the right. The bolt will then freely drop from the receiver.

6. Do not remove the gas bock.

7. Remove the rear sight by tapping out this roll pin (picture 1). The sight base is fastened to the barrel by these two screws (picture 2).

8. The front sight insert is locked with this set screw in the front of the sight. Removal will allow the insert to be drifted off the base to the left, exposing the two screws that fasten the base to the barrel.

9. Remove this screw and its lock washer (picture 1). Then pull the guide rod and bracket forward and the operating rods will follow (picture 2).

10. If necessary, tap out these two pins to remove the front wall of the magazine well.

11. Tap out the two trigger guard pins (picture 1). Displace the trigger guard like this (picture 2) and push the trigger guard up through the top of the receiver.

12. Remove the two D clips on the trigger guard bushings and push the bushings out to the right (picture 1). The bolt stop is completely freed by the bushing removal and can be removed (picture 2). Don’t lose the spring, shown here in shadow at the center of the image.

13. Remove the magazine catch and dual spring forward and down.

14. Remove this pin that retains the hammer spring cup. And then pull the spring assembly out of the rear of the trigger housing and the hammer and struts up and out.

15. Push out the two trigger and sear pins and remove the trigger and sear assembly.

16. The trigger and sear assemblies laid out. Note the presence of a spring and plunger from inside the trigger. Do not further disassemble the sear mechanism.

17. Difficult to display because of the depth in the trigger guard. A long tool can be inserted to depress the safety plunger and the safety pushed out to either side.

18. Remove the firing pin retaining pin (picture 1). Pull it out to the left. Remove the firing pin and spring from the rear as it flies out (picture 2). Do not remove the link pin below the firing pin channel, as it is staked in there is no reason to remove it unless a link is damaged.

19. Lift out the cam pin and pull the bolt out.

20. Drive out this pin to free the ejector and spring.

21. Carefully pull the ejector inward toward the bolt face to remove it. The spring and ball bearing beneath should not be lost.

22. The stock can be removed or adjusted by removing this nut. The stock rides upon the recoil spring tube, which should not be removed or disassembled outside the factory.

Reassembly tips:

1. Reinserting the ball bearing detent in the extractor spring hole can be difficult. Having spare ball bearings would be wise. Place the spring in the hole with the bearing sitting on top of it. Position the extractor like so. Carefully depress the bearing fully into the hole while pushing the extractor into its slot.

Bergara B-14

Bergara of Spain has produced barrels for many manufacturers for decades and recently has begun bringing their entire rifle into the U.S. The B-14 Hunter is typical of these rifles and in this case sits inside a fully bedded synthetic stock. It is available in most of the usual chamberings and is at a price point comparable with most domestic companies’ standard bolt action rifle, such as the Rem. 700 or Browning X-Bolt.

Disassembly:

1. Open the bolt and depress the bolt stop button. Pull the bolt all the way to the rear.

2. Remove the two action bolts, one at the front of the magazine well and the other at the rear of the trigger guard.

3. Lift the trigger guard from the stock, and then the stock from the barreled action.

4. Remove the magazine well from the receiver. It is held in place only by spring tension of the well itself.

5. Tap out these two solid pins to remove the trigger assembly from the receiver. It’s easier, though not required, to do so from right to left (picture 1). The trigger assembly can then be removed, though the sear and sear spring may remove themselves as soon as the pins are pushed out (picture 2).

6. Pull or push this chamfered pin down and out of the receiver to remove the bolt stop and spring.

7. Disassemble the trigger assembly only with valid need. First, remove this E-clip and push the pivot pin out to the right (picture 1). As the pin is pushed out the flat spring on the right side will lose tension and allow the safety detent ball to come free from under the spring (picture 2). Don’t lose the ball. Remove the pin entirely. This allows the safety lever to be removed out to the rear of the trigger housing. Drive out the trigger pivot pin to remove the trigger (picture 3). This pin retains the trigger spring (picture 4). It MUST be removed before the adjustment screw in front of it is removed from the front of the housing, as the screw has a groove in which one of the spring legs rests. Removing the screw prior to the spring will result in the adjustment screw breaking. There are holes for an engagement screw and an overtravel screw than may or may not have screws, behind the trigger and below the adjustment screw respectively.

8. As with most rotating floorplate style magazine bottoms, the follower and spring can be removed from the floor plate by lifting the rear bottom of the spring up and pulling the spring’s floor leg out the rear of the bottom plate. An identical method is used to remove the spring from the follower.

9. Tap out this pin to remove the magazine bottom plate from the trigger guard.

10. Tap out this pin to remove the bottom plate catch and spring.

11. The bolt must be disassembled using a special tool. Grasp the cocking piece or cocking indicator when the firing pin is resting on its cocking shelf. Alternatively, a padded bench vise or padded vise grips will suffice. Grasp the cocking piece so that the firing pin does not move forward as you unscrew the firing pin assembly from the bolt body.

12. Compress the firing pin spring until the bot shroud can be angled up and off the firing pin.

13. The rear tip of the firing pin is expanded in order to stake the cocking piece in place. If necessary, this staking can be broken and the cocking piece unscrewed from the firing pin. The firing pin spring and seat can also be removed at that time.

14. Remove the extractor by pushing it inward toward the firing pin. Do not lose the spring and detent.

15. Drive out this pin to remove the ejector and spring.

Reassembly tips:

1. If the trigger was disassembled, ensure the short leg of the trigger spring is seated in the slot in the adjustment screw, and the long leg is properly seated in this groove on the front of the trigger.

2. Note that the trigger housing pins have a rather long head on them, indicated here. These pins will go back into the receiver and housing from left to right.

Browning A-Bolt III

The A-Bolt rifle has been around for many years. The original A-Bolt followed the BBR, and itself was succeeded by the second generation A-Bolt II. The third generation continues to refine the concept. The A-Bolt III is quite different from the first and second generations, as well as its X-Bolt contemporary. This model is also sold as a package with a halfway decent optic, whereas the X-Bolt is not. All the usual chamberings are available, as are different stock options, etc.

Disassembly:

1. Remove the bolt by depressing the bolt stop button and pulling the bolt out of the rear of the receiver.

2. Remove the two action bolts at the front and rear of the magazine well (picture 1). Remove the trigger guard (picture 2), and then the magazine well (picture 3) from the stock, followed by the stock from the action.

3. Pull this curved pin down and out to remove the bolt stop from the receiver.

4.If necessary, tap out these two solid pins and remove the sear assembly from the receiver. However, it should not be necessary. The remaining parts in the sear assembly can be removed without removing the housing, and the pins are very tightly pressed in place.

5. Remove these two hex-headed bolts and the safety tongs beneath them. There is a small spring between the two tongs that should not be lost.

6. Push this pin into the housing enough to release the bolt release lever and spring.

7. Push out this pin fully and remove the sear and sear spring.

8. If the connector and spring haven’t fallen out on their own yet, remove them now. The connector is held in the housing by spring tension against the sear itself.

9. Remove the leg of the safety spring that is inserted into the housing (picture 1) first and then the other curved leg from the safety. Put the safety button in the middle position and remove it upward out of the housing (picture 2).

10. The trigger can be removed with its spring by tapping out this pin.

11. Tap out this pin to remove the magazine catch and spring.

12. The magazine tensioning spring can be removed by snapping the front edge down and the spring can be jimmied up and out the top of the mag well.

13. Rotate the firing pin assembly to this point and pull the bolt shroud from the firing pin.

14. Insert a tool in this gap that will slightly pull the firing pin to the rear (picture 1). Push the assembly into the bolt into the bolt body and pull the handle out of the body (picture 2). Pull the firing pin from the back of the bolt (picture 3).

15. To further disassemble the firing pin (if necessary), tap out this pin and unscrew the cocking piece from the firing pin. This, obviously, will allow the firing pin sleeve and spring to exit the shaft of the firing pin.

16. Insert a small tool into this hole to depress the detent. Move the extractor inward into the bolt face to remove it.

17. Tap out this pin to remove the ejector plunger and spring.

Reassembly tips:

1. When reinserting the sear and connector, seat the connector spring and connector and compress the spring to allow clearance for the sear to be placed. The sear will hold the connector in place and the sear’s pivot pin can be easily installed.

Browning BAR

Similar/Identical Pattern Guns:

The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Browning BAR also apply to the following guns:

The factory designation of this gas-operated semi-auto sporter has caused a little confusion, as the famed military selective-fire gun was also called the BAR. The sleek sporting rifle was introduced in 1967, and it is still in production. The gun has been offered in several grades, the price depending on the extent of stock checkering, carving, engraving, and inlay work. Regardless of the grade, the mechanical details are the same, and the instructions will apply.

It should also be noted that the Browning Longtrac, Shortrac, and Winchester SXR rifles are