The Men's Attire Answer Book

The Men's Attire Answer Book©

─ Using Clothes To Achieve Your Goals

by

James F. Brown

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright act, without the prior written permission of the Publisher.

Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: Although the author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this book was correct at press time, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

––––––––

Published by Pogonip Press

POB 2491

Manhattan Beach, CA 90267-2491

––––––––

©Copyright 2018 by James F. Brown All rights reserved.

––––––––

ebook ISBN-13: 978-0-9860116-0-3

ebook ISBN-10: 0-9860116-0-6

pbook ISBN-13: 978-0-9860116-1-0

pbook ISBN-10: 0-9860116-1-4

––––––––

Dewey Decimal Classification:  646.3

Library of Congress Classification: TT618

Library of Congress Control Number: 2018946790

––––––––

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FOREWORD

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

INTRODUCTION

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

SECTION ONE — About Clothes

A SHORT HISTORY OF CLOTHING

THE BUSINESS OF CLOTHING

Design

Manufacturing

Shipping & Distribution

Retail Sales

Factory Outlet Malls

Resellers & Discounters

ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, OR MINERAL?

POLY & POLY-RAY? NO WAY!

HOW SUITS ARE MADE

Off The Rack Suits

Made To Measure (Semi-Custom) Suits

Bespoke (Full-Custom) Suits

THE THREE BASIC SUIT STYLES

The American Suit

The British Suit

The Italian Suit

SPORT COATS & BLAZERS

THE VERSATILE CAMELHAIR SPORT COAT

FORMAL ATTIRE

White Tie

Black Tie

DRESS PANTS

DRESS SHIRTS

TIES

Tie Fabrics

How To Wear Ties

The Big Tie No-No

Power Ties, Colors, & Patterns

Bow Ties

Shopping For Ties

Tie Care & Storage

POCKET SQUARES

BELTS

BRACES (SUSPENDERS)

SHOES

Parts Of A Shoe

Shoe Construction & Quality

How To Be A Smart Shoe Shopper

Caring For & Maintaining Shoes

SOCKS

HATS & CAPS

SWEATERS

Sweater Fabrics

Sweater Care & Cleaning

How To Hand Wash Sweaters & Other Delicates

UNDERWEAR

INSULATED CLOTHING — DOWN VERSUS SYNTHETICS

SECTION TWO — Shopping For Clothes

SHOPPING VERSUS BUYING

TRYING ON CLOTHES FOR FIT

USE THE  FIVE P's AS YOUR SHOPPING STRATEGY

Before Buying

After Buying

I HAVE A LITTLE LIST

COMPARISION SHOPPING — IN-PERSON & VIRTUAL

BOGO IS A NO GO!

WHAT CLOTHES LABELS CAN TELL YOU

INSPECTING YOUR POTENTIAL PURCHASE

WALK INTO A STORE & DO THIS FIRST

BARGAINING BASICS

BEWARE THE SCHLOCK SHOPS

DON'T GO FOR USED CLOTHES

CLOTHES FOR BIG & SMALL MEN

ROOM FOR GROWTH

SIZE MATTERS

Pants Sizes

Shirt Sizes

Suit & Sport Coat Sizes

ATTIRE SHOPPING ABROAD

COUNTERFEITS ARE BAD KARMA

FTC REGISTERED IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS

SHOPPING STRATEGIES FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON

SUMMER SALES CAN MEAN BIG SAVINGS

SMART SHOPPING FOR SUMMERTIME LEISUREWEAR

KNOW YOUR NUMBERS

MAKE FRIENDS WITH SALES STAFF

TRUE COLORS

USING A SPREADSHEET TO TRACK YOUR PURCHASES

SECTION THREE — Wearing & Using Clothes As Tools

FASHION VERSUS STYLE — THE BIG DIFFERENCES

Wearing Logos Is A No Go!

WHY GUYS THINK DRESSING UP IS AGONY

ADJUSTING YOUR SELF IMAGE

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Tattoos & Piercings

The Man Bun & Weird Hair

CHOOSING WHAT TO WEAR

ARTFUL ATTIRE ACCESSORIZING

AVOIDING CASUAL FRIDAY CATASTROPHES

BE A PEOPLE WATCHER!

BE A CLOTHING CHAMELEON!

A POP OF COLOR

COORDINATING TEXTURES

SPORT COAT & SWEATER SYNERGIES

FIT IS FOREMOST

Athletic Fit & Portly Fit

GET YOUR OWN PERSONAL TAILOR & GIVE HIM (OR HER) ALL YOUR BUSINESS

FORCEFUL OR FRIENDLY?

MIRRORING CLIENT ATTIRE

STANDING OUT FOR PUBLIC SPEAKING

THE LIGHT TOUCH

THE WINTER WET SEASON

SECTION FOUR — Caring For Clothes

CARING, NOT JUST WEARING

AT THE CLEANERS

DOING YOUR OWN LAUNDRY

HONEY, I SHRUNK THE CLOTHES!

SMART CLOTHES STORAGE

TAKING STOCK OF WHAT YOU'VE GOT

A CLOTHING BUDGET PLAN

SECTION FIVE — Travel & Other Tips

AVERTING ATTIRE DISASTERS

THE BIGGEST BOO-BOOS MADE BY MEN

HOW WOMEN CAN HELP THEIR MEN CLOTHES SHOP

COMMON SENSE ABOUT SCENTS

WHY MEN'S MAGAZINES GIVE BAD ADVICE

BUSINESS ETIQUETTE BASICS

BUILD PERSONAL RELATIONSHIPS FIRST

MAINTAINING A FARLEY FILE

BUSINESS TRAVEL TIPS

LUGGAGE

SAVILE ROW & JERMYN STREET

BIBLIOGRAPHY & RESOURCES

THANK YOU!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

FOREWORD

I've known Jim Brown for over fifteen years and he is not only most incredibly knowledgeable about all aspects of men’s clothing but he's a consummate shopper. Jim has honed his education of the details of men's clothes — style, construction, history and what is appropriate to the point that he is constantly asked to speak to service clubs about men's fashion. But he's gone beyond an intensive knowledge of style to perfect his techniques for shopping. Skills of which all men should be more aware.

His book is complete in all aspects of understanding color, fit, your image, clothing care, how to shop and recognize value, business travel, building personal relation­ships, navigating the sales, and even working with sales associates to your advent­age. Plus great little gems of insights the average guy would never think of but is essential knowledge!

It's knowledge that every man needs to know and thank goodness we have Jim here willing to share.

Andy Gilchrist

Author of The Encyclopedia Of Men's Clothes

www.AskAndyAboutClothes.com

––––––––

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

No man is an island. Neither is a writer. It would have been impossible for me to create this book without the assistance of the following people. My thanks and gratitude to Rick Nyburg for the great cover photos; Sheryl Roush for her marketing and design tips; David Portnoy for his support and mentoring; Andy Gilchrist for his advice, mentoring, and educational website and materials; Mike Hurst for his comments and advice; Craig Duswalt for his Rock Star clothing stories; Joshua Schulman for his coaching and friendship; Susie Kim for her great tailoring and teaching me about tailoring; Toastmasters for helping me develop my presentation and training skills; the many salespeople who gave me such helpful advice on shopping for clothes; and Jack Nichols for all his advice, sup­port, mentoring, and friendship.

Last, but certainly not least, a big shout-out and thank you to John T. Molloy for all his attire-related social research and books, which started the professional attire movement back in the Seventies.

INTRODUCTION

OK, I admit it! Like most guys, I'm a slob at heart. Living near the beach in Southern California, I'm most comfortable in a T-shirt, hiking shorts, sneakers, and white crew socks. When it's cool, I add a sweatshirt or long sleeve flannel shirt to my basic beach attire. Maybe even a pair of long jeans. That's my outfit when I'm on my own time.

But what about when I'm not on my own time? That's a different story. When I'm working, meeting others in a professional setting, and teaching or presenting, I've got to look the part. Being clean and well-groomed is essential, but dressing appropriately is critical. Why? Because people will judge you based on what they see or know about you. That's called making a good first impression. But what if it's a bad first impression? Wow! That's really difficult to overcome. Mental inertia is involved here. Once people make a decision and reach a conclusion, they tend to stick to it... even when new evidence or experience contradicts that con­clusion.

There's also social conservatism to consider. If you're dressed down inappropriate to the occasion — whatever that is — people can become very of­fended. And that's not good when your goal is to persuade others to do what you want them to.

Another factor is meeting peoples' expectations of you. Clothing is more than just personal shelter from the elements; it's shorthand for advertising your status and occupation. An investment banker in a three-piece pinstripe suit with a power tie makes an entirely different impression than the same person in a tank top, cutoffs, and sandals. Clothing also denotes power in society. A uniformed police officer has tremendous power in certain circumstances. He can stop people, direct them where to go, and tell them what to do. And they will (generally) obey. That same officer out of uniform (and without a badge) would have a problem ordering people around.

So, using clothes as tools to achieve your goals is vital to success in life. It's not a new concept. John T. Molloy's classic how-to books, Dress for Success and The New Dress for Success, were best sellers when they were published. And they are still excellent references for professional men. Unfortunately, they're out of print, although still available from used book sources, and highly recommended.

In short, clothes are tools to manipulate others into doing what you want them to. People will react to you depending on your attire. Even more important — and a much more subtle psychological effect — is how you will act and feel about yourself depending on how you're dressed. I'm a different person in beach attire than when I'm in a pinstripe suit, power tie, and wingtip dress shoes. I think differently. I act differently. And I respond differently.

I invite you to read, heed, and use the information in this book to achieve your own personal goals, whatever they may be. Clothes are tools; be a consummate, accomplished, and effective tool user.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

The Men's Attire Answer Book has its origins in my weekly newspaper column, Looking Good for Lots Less. Each column covered a specific area of men's attire. I've collected those columns, updated the information in them, and grouped them into logical sections:

SECTION ONE — About Clothes

SECTION TWO — Shopping For Clothes

SECTION THREE — Wearing & Using Clothes As Tools

SECTION FOUR — Caring For Clothes

SECTION FIVE — Travel & Other Tips

BIBLIOGRAPHY & RESOURCES

Each section contains short chapters about particular items of attire, as well as helpful tips and techniques. Before you go clothes shopping, take a few minutes to read and review the chapters that apply to the items you'll be looking to buy. But don't ever feel pressured to buy something on any shopping expedition. Take your time and make your purchases carefully and deliberately. My advice is to read the chapter USE THE FIVE P's AS YOUR SHOPPING STRATEGY. Following those steps will save you money and ensure that your purchases are deliberate, rational, and free of emotional entanglement.

You may notice some duplication and repetition of information in this book. There are two good reasons for this. First, it's info that's important and that I'd like you to pay special attention to. Second, these sections, chapters, and subchapters are designed for quick reading of key points to remember when you go shopping for specific items in order to save money, buy quality, and get exactly what you need.

As you gain proficiency, experience, and expertise in buying clothes and using them as tools to achieve your goals, you'll find that it's exciting, exhilarating, and tons of fun. The knowledge you gain from this book, the other resources listed at the back, and your own personal efforts will serve you well in your professional and personal life. Good hunting, good shopping, and good luck!

James F. Brown

Manhattan Beach, California

June 2018

SECTION ONE — About Clothes

A SHORT HISTORY OF CLOTHING

Humans have been wearing clothes for a long time. But our very earliest ancestors did not. They were running around Africa in their birthday suits. No footwear, either. So, what was the impetus that drove them to start wearing clothes? Con­trary to what we in colder climates might believe, it wasn't about staying warm. That wasn't a big problem in tropical Africa.

Instead, it was about protecting sensitive body areas from harm. Think about it. Animals that walk on four legs (quadrupeds) have their private parts at the rear and underneath, pretty much tucked away and fairly safe. When we became up­right bipeds and started walking on two legs, those areas were now front and center, and in harm's way. Africa is home to many hazards such as high UV sunlight, stinging insects, and plants with sharp thorns and toxic leaves. Our ancestors had considerable motivation to solve these problems.

Hominids were already scavenging for meat and using stone tools to cut through skin to get to meat. It would have been a small step to cut out animal skins and wrap them around our lower torsos. It was a simple solution that worked well.

Today, all humans wear some type of clothing. Some because they live in colder climates. But even in tropical areas, and in cultures where's there's no taboo against nudity, breechclouts are worn. Clothing is personal shelter against the elements that we carry around with us.

(Besides humans, there is only one other species that wears clothes. Can you guess what it is? Hint: it's not our closest relatives — chimps, bonobos, gorillas, and orangutans. It's lowly, humble hermit crabs! They're wearing empty conch shells to protect them from being the main course at someone else's dinner. As they grow, they must find bigger shells to fit into; competition for shells is fierce. It's a tough life for hermit crabs!)

As humans left Africa for colder parts of the globe, clothing's role expanded to include protection against freezing cold and killing heat. Eskimos and Arabs developed clothes that shielded them from cold and heat in their respective environments.

Something else happened to clothing as human cultures grew and became more complex than the small groups of hunter-gatherers we once were. Items of attire became indicators of status, gender, and occupation. Kings and queens wore crowns and ermine robes; serfs and peasants wore burlap and other rough gar­ments. Today, what someone wears tells others who they are, what they are, and where they are on the social ladder. People react to nuns' habits, priests' robes, police and military uniforms, and three-piece pinstripe suits in ways that give the wearers of such clothing great power over others in certain circumstances.

What does all this mean to us today? It means that we can carefully choose specific attire to influence others and advance our own careers and personal agendas. The sections and chapters that follow provide guidelines on just how to achieve goals that you've set for yourself at work and in life.

THE BUSINESS OF CLOTHING

Clothing is an enormous business that's global in scope and generates billions in revenues for design houses, manufacturers, distributors, and retailers. Although, like any commercial enterprise, it has ups and downs, attire will always be an inexhaustible market because everybody needs clothing. Clothes are consumables; they wear out and must be replaced. Plus, as kids grow and adults enlarge or shrink, they must purchase new sizes. Knowing a bit about the business of clothing confers power and can help consumers buy smart, buy correctly, and buy cheap. In this chapter and others, we'll explore how this vital global business operates.

Design

The first step in the clothing business is the design phase. Before any item of attire is made, it's necessary to have a blueprint, a road map, a concept of what that item is and how it will be made. A clothing designer initially sketches out his or her idea on paper. It can be well developed and standardized, with a long history such as T-shirts, jeans, socks, underwear, and outerwear. It can be traditional such as suits, sport coats, and dress pants and shirts. Or it can be something fresh for a new fashion season such as skirts, blouses, dresses, and accessories.

After the sketch, a pattern is developed for cutting fabric and assembling the pieces into the item of clothing. Fabric content, weave, weight, colors, and pat­terns are decided. Clothing sizes are also an important factor in pattern making. Prototypes are made and finetuned for sizing, durability, and fit.

All these hand-made prototypes are gathered together by the design house and modeled in runway shows and buyer fairs. These venues take place nine months or more prior to when the clothes will be offered to the public. Buyers from major department stores, boutiques, specialty shops, and other retailers place orders for the clothes they select. Large department stores and clothing chains may also place orders for their house labels, acting as their own design house. These orders state how many items of attire will be purchased, what colors, styles, how many of each size will be delivered to the