Delicious Rose-Flavored Desserts: A Modern and Fragrant Take on Classic Recipes
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About this ebook
In Delicious Rose-Flavored Desserts, culinary historian Judy Polinsky explores the use of roses and rose water in Georgian cooking and baking. With a foreword by Clair Martin, Curator Emeritus of the Rose Garden at the Huntington Library and Gardens, this book is packed with information about the history of roses as a food flavoring and the benefits of consuming rose water, instructions on how to select roses by scent and rose family, and directions for how to prepare rosewater from your own roses, in addition to more than fifty recipes (or as the Georgians wrote, receipts”).
Unique in its structure, the book will feature the original eighteenth-century recipe along with the modern version. Polinsky tested each recipe first by hand and then retested using modern appliances, such as mixers and food processors. The reward is in the subtle blending and mixing of unexpected flavors to create wonderfully tasty treats.
Whether your interest is in cooking, rose gardening, or history, using roses from your garden to re-create unusual recipes is an adventure and great fun!
Skyhorse Publishing, along with our Good Books and Arcade imprints, is proud to publish a broad range of cookbooks, including books on juicing, grilling, baking, frying, home brewing and winemaking, slow cookers, and cast iron cooking. We’ve been successful with books on gluten-free cooking, vegetarian and vegan cooking, paleo, raw foods, and more. Our list includes French cooking, Swedish cooking, Austrian and German cooking, Cajun cooking, as well as books on jerky, canning and preserving, peanut butter, meatballs, oil and vinegar, bone broth, and more. While not every title we publish becomes a New York Times bestseller or a national bestseller, we are committed to books on subjects that are sometimes overlooked and to authors whose work might not otherwise find a home.
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Book preview
Delicious Rose-Flavored Desserts - Judy C. Polinsky
Copyright © 2016 by Judy Polinsky
Photographs copyright © 2016 by Radford Polinsky on pages 6, 11, 14, 144; page 8 © iStock/iStock_Vision; page 28 © iStock/IllustratedFritz; page 32 © iStock/mustafagull; page 35 © iStock/amdezigns; page 37 © iStock/ALLEKO; page 172 © iStock/erperlstrompage. Photos on pages 2, 17, 20, 23, 25, 38, 60, 63, 96, 110, 113, 168, 170 by Bonnie Matthews.
Foreword copyright © 2016 by Clair G. Martin
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without the express written consent of the publisher, except in the case of brief excerpts in critical reviews or articles. All inquiries should be addressed to Skyhorse Publishing, 307 West 36th Street, 11th Floor, New York, NY 10018.
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Visit our website at www.skyhorsepublishing.com.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available on file.
Cover design by Laura Klynstra
Cover photo credit Radford Polinsky
Print ISBN: 978-1-5107-0331-5
Ebook ISBN: 978-1-5107-0332-2
Printed in China
This book is dedicated to the memory of two amazing, wonderful individuals, my parents Irv and Millie, who instilled in me a sense of adventure and a great joy for life.
Contents
Foreword
Introduction
Roses and Food
Selecting Your Roses
Making Rose Water
Cakes
Small Cakes
Pies and Tarts
Creams, Custards, and Puddings
Miscellaneous
Glossary of Common Eighteenth-century Terms
Eighteenth-century Oven Temperature Conversions
Bibliography
Acknowledgments
Index
Foreword
Few plants elicit as strong of an emotional and cultural response as the rose. Slicing across cultural lines, the rose has become an icon. In the West, its use has become almost ubiquitous. Rose-colored glasses
or rosy cheeked
are among the many daily uses of the word. Try thinking about Valentine’s or Mother’s Day without picturing a rose in your mind’s eye!
Our strong attachment to the flower is due to its fragrance and our long use of the shrub as a garden flower. It is almost like we are born with the knowledge of what a rose should be etched into our synapses. Watch a young child in the rose garden run from brightly colored and perfumed bloom to bloom, and know that this is in our genes.
For me personally, the use of roses in cooking is virgin territory. Sure, in my studies I had come across recipes using roses from time to time, but in my mind I associated these culinary uses with gingham-frocked 1950s housewives offering trays of homemade cookies—not something a true, red-blooded rosarian should take seriously! Cooking with roses was outside my focus (or so I thought).
Judy Polinsky dragged me kicking and screaming into a world where rose appreciation takes on a new meaning. She seduced me with rose almond cookies and rose-petaled ice cream and her decadent chocolate rose cakes.
Judy began by volunteering in The Huntington Herb Garden but soon followed her nose into my rosy domain. She challenged me to recommend the most fragrant roses for possible use in creating rose waters to use in her culinary experiments. My resistance was weakened and finally breached when she started sharing her rose treats with us in the garden. Once introduced to her eighteenth century pound cake, I was hooked!
Judy’s fascination with period cooking mirrors the expansion of roses being developed in Holland and France in the eighteenth century. While in the early part of the century roses remained the hobby of the aristocracy, by the end ordinary citizens were discovering the joys of growing roses in their home gardens. Often the most popular roses were also the most fragrant. Those were ripe, smelly times, and one couldn’t just pick up a room deodorizer at the corner apothecary nor could you find rose water at the local grocer. If you wanted to jazz up your grandmother’s pound cake, you had to make your own rose water.
This book is a product of Judy’s determination and perseverance promoting roses in cooking. A few years back, I invited her to share some of her treats at the Great Rosarians of the World™ annual lecture series at The Huntington. Her rose cookies and cakes expanded to rose-flavored puddings and whipped cream, and she seduced a new audience into her world of rose cooking. Those of us who were privileged to be her test subjects soon came to the universal opinion that she needed to write a book, and this is the product of all those experiments.
Enjoy!
Clair G. Martin
Curator Emeritus of the Huntington Rose Garden
San Marino, California
Introduction
Have you ever imagined a table laden with sweet dishes? Cakes, puddings, creams, custards, jellies, candied fruits, marzipan, ice creams molded into exotic forms, all served as the final course of your meal? I have! After reading Georgian era cookbooks as an amateur historian, I became curious about the economic, political, and social factors that would create an entire table of sweets as a show of wealth and power. This is the fascination that led me to research more about Georgian food, particularly the dessert course.
I am intrigued by the use of roses and rose water in Georgian foods. The result is this book of recipes (or as the Georgians wrote receipts
). The eighteenth century original receipt is printed on the left-hand page, facing the modern version on the right-hand page. In deciphering eighteenth century text or personal handwriting, I have attempted to stay true to the receipts and the cook’s knowledge and skills. Each receipt was tested without the use of any electric conveniences, all by hand, then retested using modern appliances