Cocktails at Dinner: Daring Pairings of Delicious Dishes and Enticing Mixed Drinks
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About this ebook
As mixologists strive to catch up in culinary creativity with their counterparts in restaurant kitchens, collaboration has become a natural progression. Seriously interesting, ingredient-driven cocktails, concocted with top-shelf liquors, fresh seasonal fruits, flavored bitters, and other artisanal components, have begun to reflect a restaurant’s artful cuisine. First-rate food and mixed drinksjudiciously and harmoniously pairedbecome something more than the sum of the parts. The kitchen flows seamlessly into the bar, as cocktails take on a fresh, farm-to-glass aesthetic, and when paired with inspired dishes, the unions beget never-before-imagined taste sensations.
Cocktails at Dinner serves as a vital introduction to these new wave” combinations, bridging the gap between the upscale restaurant and the home kitchen and bar, for creative dinner parties and special occasions and for curious cooks and bartenders at all levels. It is meant to showcase a range of innovative and original yet accessible recipes from a diversity of cuisines that open the door to new possibilities in dining and entertaining. Michael Turback and Julia Hastings-Black have recruited working chefs and bartenders from forty-four progressive restaurants with innovative cocktail programseach contributing the recipe for a cocktail paired with the recipe for a compatible small plate, main plate, or dessert. The process or methodology by which chef and bartender work in consort and their joint efforts to stretch palate perspectives are explored in lively headnotes, guiding the reader along the sensorial journey. Immensely readable, Cocktails at Dinner is an essential guide for everyone who loves food and drink.
Skyhorse Publishing, along with our Good Books and Arcade imprints, is proud to publish a broad range of cookbooks, including books on juicing, grilling, baking, frying, home brewing and winemaking, slow cookers, and cast iron cooking. We’ve been successful with books on gluten-free cooking, vegetarian and vegan cooking, paleo, raw foods, and more. Our list includes French cooking, Swedish cooking, Austrian and German cooking, Cajun cooking, as well as books on jerky, canning and preserving, peanut butter, meatballs, oil and vinegar, bone broth, and more. While not every title we publish becomes a New York Times bestseller or a national bestseller, we are committed to books on subjects that are sometimes overlooked and to authors whose work might not otherwise find a home.
Michael Turback
Michael Turback not only created and nurtured one of Upstate New York’s first destination restaurants, he built a reputation around his ability to stalk, procure, and support the best of local food and wine. The Los Angeles Times called Turback’s “the first Finger Lakes restaurant to really devote itself to New York’s culinary and enological bounty.” A true culinary pioneer, his efforts sparked trends that are seen throughout the hospitality industry today. He is the author of a culinary trilogy (Hot Chocolate, Mocha, and Coffee Drinks), and has taken on, in print, such topics as the ice cream sundae, the banana split, artisan cocktails, food and cocktail pairings, and the pleasures of Finger Lakes Wine Country. He lives in Ithaca, New York.
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Book preview
Cocktails at Dinner - Michael Turback
SMALL PLATE PAIRINGS
The Rosebud team worked in perfect unison to create an interesting dining experience, challenging the diner’s notion of how food and cocktails could relate. I like to think of my cooking as very approachable,
says Chef Ron Eyester, yet I want to convey a sense of depth. You usually will not find more than three or four different flavors on any of my plates.
Ron chose eggplant as the focal point of the dish and called in Jeff Jackson, resident drinksmith and wine dude
to work on a compatible cocktail. With his experience both in the kitchen and behind the bar, Jeff’s approach was methodical. Coming from a wine background, I wanted to use a riff of the champagne cocktail, but with the fried dish I needed higher alcohol. Ron suggested a bold, smokey note, so I added a well-aged scotch to the recipe along with lime and orgeat in a kind of tantalizing tart/sweet dance. Distinctive as it was pleasurable, the cocktail came to life alongside the dish.
WHAT’S YOUR 20?
PAIRED WITH
TEMPURA EGGPLANT CHIPS
ROSEBUD, ALTANTA, GA
JEFF JACKSON, MIXOLOGIST
RON EYESTER, CHEF
The eggplant is a thing of beauty. Its ability to balance multiple flavors makes the vegetable a perfect complement to any meal involving several ingredients, and according to Mr. Eyester, its own mild flavor broadens the space for a range of influences. Fried and crunchy foods pair well with high-intensity cocktails,
explains the chef, whose beer-batter tempura meets its match with Mr. Jackson’s complex drink.
WHAT’S YOUR 20?
MAKES 1 SERVING
The name is slang for what’s your location?
or identify your position,
a sly reference to the point at which a combination of ingredients is successful. The drinksmith begins with an aromatic Scotch, slightly sweet and fruity, with vanilla notes. It mixes well with the creamy texture of champagne liqueur, tartness of lime, and rich almond of orgeat. Complex yet drinkable—flavors and aromas bleed into one another.
1½ ounce Glenlivet 12-Year-Old Single Malt Scotch Whiskey
¾ ounce Henri Giraud Ratafia de Champagne
½ ounce freshly pressed lime juice
½ ounce orgeat syrup
Combine all ingredients with ice in a shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into a pre-chilled coupe.
TEMPURA EGGPLANT CHIPS
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The chef uses this easy and clever technique to fry eggplants—sliced into chips, coated in batter, and dropped into searing hot oil so they cook quickly for an extra-crispy tempura crust. The cocktail is an excellent partner, stimulating the appetite with its incense
and heightening the eggplant’s flavors. Tempura is best served immediately and can be garnished with crumbled feta or goat cheese, and if you wish, a side of a favorite dipping sauce.
1 (12-ounce) bottle lager beer
3 cups tempura flour + flour for coating
8 cups soda water
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 tablespoon salt
1 large eggplant, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices
chopped parsley, for garnish
crumbled feta cheese, for garnish
Combine the beer, tempura flour, soda water, granulated garlic, and salt into a bowl. Mix to create tempura batter. Dip slices of eggplant into bowl of flour before dipping into the tempura batter. Cover the eggplant chip completely before frying. Fry at 350°F until golden brown, about 4 minutes on each side. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon onto a plate lined with a paper towel (to absorb excess oil). Garnish with the parsley and feta cheese, and serve immediately.
What's Your 20? and Tempura Eggplant Chips
BARLEY’S GHOST
PAIRED WITH
LAMB PINTXOS WITH HARISSA
AUTRE MONDE CAFÉ, BERWYN, IL
MARCUS LANE REIDY, MIXOLOGIST
DAN PANCAKE AND BETH PARTRIDGE, CHEFS
In the Northern Basque region in Spain, pintxos (pronounced peen-tchos
) are the region’s answer to tapas—skewered bites of grilled meats and veggies (the term comes from the verb pinchar, meaning to skewer or puncture). Usually eaten in local bars, these sociable dishes are rooted in the tradition of sharing food with friends. At Autre Monde, kitchen and bar take on the art of pintxos with grilled lamb, fired-up with Tunisian hot chili, and set into play with a seductive cocktail.
BARLEY’S GHOST
MAKES 1 SERVING
Orgeat (pronounced or-zsa,
like Zsa Zsa Gabor) syrup is made from almonds but was originally derived from barley water, according to food historian Ray Sokolov, and was an extraction of raw barley sweetened with sugar. The cocktail’s reference point, an ingredient Sokolov calls barley’s ghost,
adds texture, almond flavors, and nutty aromas to Mr. Reidy’s composition. Oak-aged rum provides bittersweet, maple-like notes, and Crema’s mescal-agave mix works its smoky-spicy magic in partnership with the spicy lamb dish.
1¼ ounces Zaya Gran Riserva
¾ ounce Small Hands Orgeat (almond syrup)
½ ounce Del Maguey Crema
¾ ounce freshly pressed lime juice
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Combine all ingredients with ice in a shaker. Shake vigorously and double-strain into a pre-chilled coupe. Serve without garnish.
LAMB PINTXOS WITH HARISSA
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
Pintxos provide an opportunity for imagination and creativity. There are no set rules—the goal is to create something flavorful and fun to eat. Skewers of succulent lamb with a sauce of sweet, piquant Piquillo peppers provide an attractive counterpoint to the cocktail. (The chef recommends metal skewers for grilling; wooden skewers must be soaked in water ahead of time and can be a bit messier.)
For the harissa spice:
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon coriander
¼ tablespoon cayenne
salt, to taste
black pepper, freshly cracked, to taste
For the harissa sauce:
10 whole Piquillo peppers (or other mild red peppers), roasted
1 tablespoon harissa spice (from above)
1 cup (approx.) olive oil
Blend all spices together, and store in a sealed jar away from light.
Combine roasted peppers and harissa spice in a blender and slowly add olive oil until it reaches a smooth consistency.
For the dish:
2 pounds lamb shoulder, ground
¼ cup half & half
4 tablespoons harissa spice (from above)
harissa sauce (from above)
mixed olives, roughly-chopped, for garnish
fresh cilantro, for garnish
Mix lamb, half & half, and harissa spice together in a large bowl. Form 2 ounces of lamb around each skewer in an oblong shape so that meat thickness is about ½ inch in the center of the skewer and ¼ inch at the bottom (two per skewer). Heat a charcoal grill to medium heat. Cook skewers directly on grill for about 4 minutes on each side or until meat gently springs back when pressed. Serve with harissa sauce, olives, and