South of the Clouds: Travels in Southwest China
By Bill Porter
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About this ebook
South of the Clouds takes readers on a journey to southwestern China, a province where as late as the 1990s the people still followed millennia-old ways of life. Originally conquered by the Mongols and eventually introduced to foreigners as a vibrant setting for trade, Yun-nan, “South of the Clouds,” became a critical crossroad connecting East and West.
In 1992, Bill Porter left his home in Hong Kong to tour the small towns and major cities of Yun-nan, starting with a ten-hour boat ride up the West River and continuing by bus and bicycle, train and tractor, and often, on foot. He visits Bulang Mountain, where the local people have no written language of their own, so they send their children to live as monks in nearby temples to learn Tai script. In Dali, a small town turned urban center, he describes a massive museum built to show off the city’s new wealth, only to have half its halls left empty and unvisited. He attends weddings and celebrations, and endures rice wine hangovers.
This is the story not only of one man’s journey, but of a spread of land with a thousand years of human history—“as satisfying as any trip by Paul Theroux” (Kirkus Reviews).
Includes photographs
“Porter uses his personal charm and fluency of the language to uncover hidden gems . . . His journal-like entries will spark curiosity about this varied region, filled with warm and very human inhabitants.” —Booklist
Bill Porter
Bill Porter was born in Russellville, Alabama, and grew up 20 miles north, in Sheffield. He went to the University of the South, and while he did graduate eventually, it took a while because he liked to travel in the spring. He also spent some time in the Marines to avoid the draft, after which he got married and finished his last few credits at Columbia in New York. It was there in the summer of 1964 that he read Vermont was losing population, so he and his wife Ruth headed to the green mountain state and drove all over, delivering his resumé to newspapers. The Rutland Herald hired him at $50 a week as a beginning reporter, and three years later he was the assistant managing editor. In 1973 he moved to Barre as the managing editor of the Herald's sister paper, the Times-Argus, and in 1985 he went out on his own as a writer. He prepared the annual report for Green Mountain Power for twelve years and won a prize for every one. While he was freelancing he also built up his farm, learned to be a pretty good mechanic, wrote a novel, and started Bar Nothing Books with Ruth. Bill had Alzheimer's for five years before he died in 2022, but he never stopped working on the farm.
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