Frommer's EasyGuide to Rome, Florence and Venice 2019

A Look at Rome, Florence & Venice

The classic itinerary that forms the heart of this guidebook—Rome, Florence, and Venice—showcases three of the world’s most magical destinations. The highlights are legendary: In Rome, thrill to the ruins of the Roman Forum, best reached by first ascending the Capitoline steps designed by Michelangelo; the treasures of the Vatican; the elegant bones of the once-mighty Colosseum; and the Pantheon, designed by Hadrian in the 2nd century. In Florence, Michelangelo’s David stands tall in the Accademia Museum, and the Ufizzi and the Pitti Palace are packed with priceless art. In Venice, float on the canal on a gondola or watch the world go by from a cafe seat on the Piazza San Marco. Italy can support a lifetime of travel, but our EasyGuide approach gives you all the tools you need to make your trip as pleasurable and uncomplicated as possible. Buon viaggio!

Ringed with statues, Piazza della Signorina is the medieval heart of Florence, with several world-class art museums only steps away.

rome

The interior of Saint Peter’s Basilica (p. 88) in Vatican City; one of the holiest sites in all Christendom, the church was built on the tomb of St. Peter.

The Roman Colosseum (p. 102), inaugurated in

a.d.

80, was once the site of bloody gladiator contests and wild animal fights. It could also be flooded for mock naval battles.

The double spiral staircase at the Vatican Museums (p. 90), inspired by a 1505 design by Bramante, allows visitors to pass in both directions without encountering one another.

Now a jumble of ruins and fragments, the Roman Forum (p. 100) was once the center of commercial, political, and religious life in the ancient Empire.

Neptune presides over the baroque Trevi Fountain (p. 116), where tossing in a coin is supposed to guarantee a return trip to Rome.

Artisanal gelato (p. 83) in a range of flavors. At least one cone (cono) or small cup (coppetta) per day is practically a requirement when visiting Rome, especially in the summer!

The School of Athens by Raphael Sanzio adorns the Stanze di Raffaello (Raphael Rooms) of the Vatican Museums (p. 90), in what was once the library and office of Pope Julius II.

Sunny Santa Maria Square lies at the heart of Trastevere (p. 47), one of Rome’s most youthful, Bohemian neighborhoods, full of offbeat shops, little trattorias, and wine bars.

Al Ceppo (p. 75) restaurant is renowned for its grilled and roasted meats, but be sure to save room for dessert!

The ancient ruins of Pompeii, reachable via a day trip from Rome, reveal the preserved Roman city, including plaster casts of Vesuvius’s victims in their moments of death in August,

a.d.

79. See p. 141.

St. Peter’s Basilica (p. 88) and the Vatican, viewed from the Tiber River; a climb to the top of the dome offers breathtaking views of Rome.

Florence

A local vibe pervades in the neighborhoods of Oltrarno, San Niccolò, and San Frediano, collectively known as Florence’s lively Left Bank. See p. 151.

Fresh produce, exotic spices, pizza vendors, and gourmet food stalls are all on hand at Florence’s Mercato Centrale (p. 204).

Florence’s Duomo (p. 178), with its elaborate 19th-century facade, is topped by Brunelleschi’s marvelous 15th-century dome and overlooks Piazza del Duomo.

Rustic Tuscan fare and ambience, plus an extensive wine list, are the hallmarks of Coquinarius Enoteca, located 2 blocks from Piazza del Duomo (p. 175).

The art collection of the Vasari Corridor (p. 188), an elevated walkway built for Duke Cosimo Medici I.

Primevera painting in the Botticelli room in the Uffizi Gallery (p. 181).

The walk, cab, or bus ride up to Piazzale Michelangelo (p. 199) affords splendid views of the Duomo and the rest of Florence.

Siena’s Palazzo Publica and scallop-shell-shaped Piazza del Campo in Siena have changed little since the mid-1300s, when the Black Death decimated the city, located just over an hour from Florence. See p. 212.

Piazza della Cisterna (p. 218), built around a well dating to 1237, is a focal point of San Gimignano, a picturesque town near Siena known for its medieval defensive towers.

Venice

A fixture on the Venice skyline, Santa Maria della Salute (p. 274) was built in the 1630s to offer thanks for the city’s deliverance from the Black Death.

Venice’s Castello neighborhood (p. 269) is one of the city’s six water-bound sestiere, or districts.

Colorful houses line Burano (p. 281), an island in the Venetian Lagoon known for its lacemaking tradition.

A reveler in an elaborate Carnevale (p. 284) costume at the Piazza San Marco; the pre-Lenten festival takes place over 10 days leading up to Fat Tuesday.

Handcrafted, hand-painted papier-maché Carnevale masks are created in several traditional botteghe shops in Venice.

In business since 1871, Trattoria Da Fiori offers up-to-date renditions of classic Venetian dishes.

Overpriced, but not overrated, a gondola ride (p. 230) through the canals of Venice is every bit as romantic as it looks.

The Mercato Rialto (p. 259) is Venice’s biggest open-air market, and its vast array of fish and seafood stalls harkens to the days when it was one of the Mediterranean’s great fish bazaars.

Reopened in 2003 after a devastating fire, Venice’s Teatro La Fenice (p. 268) is one of Europe’s great opera houses.

A ringside seat at a cafe on Piazza San Marco (p. 267) makes for memorable people-watching on Venice’s busiest square.

Eastern influence on Venetian history is in evidence in these Byzantine mosaics on the facade of Basilica di San Marco (p. 261).

There’s no proof that any family named Capulet ever lived here, but Romeo and Juliet fans still come to Verona to visit Casa di Giuletta (p. 293), a 14th-century house with a picture-perfect balcony.

1

The Best of Rome, florence & venice

By Donald Strachan

Italy is a country that needs no fanfare to introduce it. The mere name conjures up vivid images: the grand ruins of Ancient Rome, the paintings and panoramas of Florence, the secret canals and noble palaces of Venice. For centuries, visitors have headed to Italy looking for their own slice of the good life, and these three cities supply the highpoint of any trip around the country.

Nowhere in the world is the impact of the Renaissance felt more than in its birthplace, Florence, a repository of art icons left by Masaccio, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and many others. Much of the known world was once ruled from Rome, a city mythically founded by twins Romulus and Remus in 753

b.c.

There’s no place with more artistic monuments—not even Venice, a seemingly impossible floating city whose beauty and history was shaped by centuries of trade with the Byzantine world to the east.

And there’s more. Long before Italy was a country, it was a loose collection of city-states. Centuries of alliance and rivalry left a legacy dotted across the hinterlands of these three great cities, and much of it lies within easy day-trip distance. It is a short hop from Venice to the Venetian Arc: Verona, with its Shakespearean romance and an intact Roman Arena; or Padua and its sublime Giotto frescoes. In Siena, an hour from Florence, ethereal art and Gothic palaces seem barely altered since the city’s heyday in the 1300s. South of Rome, Pompeii—preserved under volcanic ash for 2 millennia after Vesuvius’ eruption in

a.d.

79—remains the best place to get up close with the world of the ancients.

St. Mark’s Square in Venice.

Italy’s best Authentic Experiences

bull.tif Dining Italian Style: There is no pastime here more cherished than eating—even better, eating outdoors, preferably with a view of a medieval church or Renaissance piazza. There’s no such thing as a single Italian cuisine: You’ll discover that each region and city has its own beloved recipes, handed down over generations. Buon appetito!

bull.tif Catching an Opera at Verona’s Arena: In summer, Italians enjoy their opera under the stars. The setting for Italy’s largest and most famous outdoor festival is the ancient Arena di Verona, a Roman amphitheater grand enough to accommodate as many elephants as required for a performance of Aïda. See p. 293.

bull.tif Shopping at Rome’s Mercato di Testaccio: The 2012 opening of a new, modern version of Testaccio’s historic market signaled a rebirth of this gritty, authentic neighborhood. The bustling market is a culinary and cultural treat, where local chefs jostle elbow-to-elbow with feisty signore, clamoring for the best pomodori, mozzarella di bufala, and trippa (tripe). Sustain yourself with delectable street food as you soak up this slice of real Rome. See p. 132.

bull.tif Exploring Florence’s Diverse Cocktail Scene: You can tailor your sipping the way you like it: straight up with one of the world’s great views at La Terrazza; casual and creative at Lo Sverso; vintage and quirky at Mayday; or crafted by one of Italy’s most inventive mixologists at Bitter Bar. See p. 208.

the best tastes of italy

bull.tif Bonci Pizzarium, Rome: Chef-entrepreneur Gabriele Bonci elevates the simple slice of pizza to extraordinary levels. There’s nothing fussy about the place, or the prices, but every single ingredient is carefully sourced and expertly prepared—as you can tell from the first bite. See p. 70.

bull.tif Mercato Centrale, Florence: Not really a restaurant . . . more the food hall of your dreams, with a constant buzz from noon until nighttime. Pick and choose from multiple kiosks preparing the best Tuscan and modern Italian food and wash it all down with a fine wine from the well-stocked enoteca. See p. 170.

bull.tif Ai Artisti, Venice: Venice’s culinary rep is founded on the quality of fish sold at its famous market. Both primi and secondi at Ai Artisti feature the freshest catch from the lagoon and farther afield. See p. 253.

bull.tif Florence’s Vegetarian Dining Scene: The days when you had to be a carnivore to fully enjoy a meal in the Renaissance city are long gone. The modern menu at Vagalume (p. 171) is populated with veggie dishes to fit any appetite, and A Crudo (p. 172) serves vegetarian tartare alongside classic and reinvented meat versions. Vegans, as well as celiacs, are looked after by the inventive menu at Brac (p. 171).

Food shopping at Florence’s Mercato Centrale.

bull.tif Cicchetti & a Spritz in Venice: Cicchetti—tapaslike small servings, usually eaten while standing at a bar—are a Venetian tradition. To make the experience complete, accompany them with a spritz made with Aperol and sparkling prosecco wine from the Veneto hills. To find some of the best spots, head for the San Polo side of the Rialto Bridge. See p. 246.

Italy’s best Hotels

bull.tif Villa Spalletti Trivelli, Rome: Recent upgrades have only enhanced the unique experience of staying in an Italian noble mansion in the middle of the capital. Opulence and impeccable service comes at a price, of course. When our lottery numbers come up, we will be booking a stay here. See p. 63.

bull.tif Mediterraneo, Rome: Upscale Art Deco Hotel Mediterraneo is the flagship of a trio of hotels near Termini Station run by the Bettoja family. Others are even more budget-friendly, but all offer vintage charm, old-school comforts, and warm service from a loyal longtime staff. They don’t make ’em like this anymore. See p. 65.

A suite at Villa Spalletti Trivelli, Rome.

bull.tif Metropole, Venice: The Grand Old Lady of Venetian hospitality, transformed from a medieval building into a luxury hotel in the 19th century, remains a chic choice, filled with antiques and Asian art. See p. 238.

On top of Pisa’s Leaning Tower.

bull.tif Palazzo Tolomei, Florence: A palace where Raphael once stayed—perhaps even giving its owners a painting to pay his rent—sounds grand indeed, and you won’t be disappointed. The Renaissance layout and a baroque redecoration from the 1600s are gloriously intact. See p. 157.

Italy’s best for Families

bull.tif Climbing Pisa’s Wonky Tower: Are we walking up or down? Pleasantly disoriented kids are bound to ask, as you spiral your way to the rooftop viewing balcony atop the world’s most famous pieces of botched engineering. Pisa is an easy day trip from Florence; eight is the minimum age for heading up its Torre Pendente, or Leaning Tower. See p. 216.

bull.tif Boat Tripping on the Venice Lagoon: Who doesn’t like a day boating on a lake, any lake? Throw in the floating city and its bell tower of San Marco as fixtures on the horizon, and you have one unforgettable family moment. See p. 280.

bull.tif Rooting for Fiorentina Soccer: Forget lions battling gladiators in Rome’s Colosseum, or Guelphs fighting Ghibellines in medieval lanes. For a modern showdown, hit a Florence soccer game. Home side Fiorentina plays Serie A matches at the city’s Stadio Comunale alternate weekends from September to June. Wear something lilac—the team’s nickname is i viola (the purples). See p. 202.

bull.tif Visiting Rome’s Centrale Montemartini: Industrial chic meets ancient marble in this unique museum, where Greek and Roman statues are displayed in the restored rooms of Rome’s first public electricity plant. The museum always has drawing and painting materials onsite, and guided tours for children are available on request. On Sundays, admission is free for kids 11 and under. See p. 125.

The Venice lagoon, with the domes of St. Mark’s in the background.

bull.tif Taste-Testing at an Artisan Gelateria: When it comes to Italian ice cream, choose carefully—Smurf-blue or bubble-gum-pink flavors are a sure sign of color enhancers, and beware of ice crystals and fluffy heaps that betray additives and pumped-in air. Authentic artisan gelaterie make good stuff from scratch daily, with fresh seasonal produce: Look for a short, all-natural ingredient list posted proudly for all to see. Believe us, you’ll taste the difference. See Gelato, p. 83, 173, and 258.

Italy’s best Museums

bull.tif Vatican Museums, Rome: The 100 galleries of the Musei Vaticani are loaded with papal treasures accumulated over the centuries. Musts include the Sistine Chapel, such ancient Greek and Roman sculptures as Laocoön and Belvedere Apollo, and room after room of Raphael’s frescoes, including his masterful School of Athens. See p. 90.

Florence’s Galleria degli Uffizi.

bull.tif Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence: This U-shaped High Renaissance building designed by Giorgio Vasari was the administrative headquarters, or uffizi (offices), for the Medici dukes of Tuscany. It’s now the crown jewel of Europe’s art museums, housing the world’s greatest collection of Renaissance paintings, including icons by Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michelangelo. See p. 181.

bull.tif Accademia, Venice: The Academy houses an unequalled array of Venetian paintings, exhibited chronologically from the 13th to the 18th century. Walls are hung with works by Bellini, Carpaccio, Giorgione, Titian, and Tintoretto. See p. 270.

bull.tif Galleria Borghese, Rome: Housed amid the frescoes and decor of a 1613 palace in the heart of the Villa Borghese, this gem of a building is merely the backdrop for its collections, which include masterpieces of baroque sculpture by a young Bernini and Canova, and paintings by Caravaggio and Raphael. See p. 118.

bull.tif Santa Maria della Scala, Siena: The building is as much the star as the artworks—the frescoed wards, ancient chapels, sacristy, and labyrinthine basement of a medieval hospital that was still healing patients until the 1990s. See p. 214.

Italy’s best Free Things to Do

bull.tif Watching the Sun Rise over the Roman Forum: A short stroll from the Capitoline Hill down Via del Campidoglio to Via di Monte Tarpeo brings you to a perfect outlook: The terrace behind the Michelangelo-designed square, an ideal photo op when the sun rises behind the Temple of Saturn, illuminating the archaeological complex below in pink-orange light. Early risers can reward themselves with breakfast from the bakeries of the nearby Jewish Ghetto. See p. 100.

bull.tif Basking in the Lights of the Renaissance: At dusk, make the steep climb up to the ancient church of San Miniato al Monte, Florence. Sit down on the steps and watch the city begin its evening twinkle. See p. 200.

bull.tif Treading the Gothic Streets of Siena: The shell-shaped Piazza del Campo stands at the heart of one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. Steep canyonlike streets, icons of Gothic architecture like the Palazzo Pubblico, and ethereal Madonnas painted on shimmering gold altarpieces transport you back to a time before the Renaissance. See p. 212.

bull.tif Gazing in Wonder at Caravaggio’s Greatest Paintings: Rome’s French church, San Luigi dei Francesi, is home to three panels by bad-boy of the baroque, Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. His Calling of St. Matthew, painted at the height of his fame (and powers), incorporates uncompromising realism and his trademark chiaroscuro (extremes of light and dark) style. See p. 109.

Inside the Pantheon, Rome.

bull.tif Discovering You’re Hopelessly Lost in Venice: You haven’t experienced Venice until you have turned a corner convinced you’re on the way to somewhere, only to find yourself smack against a canal with no bridge, or in a little courtyard with no way out. All you can do is shrug, smile, and give the city’s maze of narrow streets another try. Because getting lost in Venice is a pleasure. See p. 260.

undiscovered Italy

bull.tif San Frediano, Florence: Most Florentines have abandoned their centro storico to the visitors, but the Arno’s Left Bank in San Frediano has plenty of local action after dark. Dine at iO (p. 172), slurp a gelato by the river at La Carraia (p. 174), then sip fine wines until late at Il Santino (p. 209) or catch an offbeat gig at Libreria–Café La Cité (p. 206).

bull.tif Cannaregio, Venice: This residential neighborhood has silent canals, elegantly faded mansions, hidden churches graced by Tiepolo paintings, and the old Ghetto Nuovo, a historic area of Jewish bakeries, restaurants, and synagogues. It’s all a great escape from the chaos around San Marco. See chapter 9.

bull.tif The Aperitivo Spots & Craft Beer Bars of Rome: Don’t confuse aperitivo with happy hour: Predinner cocktails tickle appetites, induce conversation and flirting, and allow free access to all-you-can-eat buffets if you buy one drink. And Romans are increasingly turning to artisan-brewed beers for their one drink. See p. 134.

bull.tif The View from T Fondaco dei Tedeschi: This Venice department store—renovated in 2016 by stellar architect Rem Koolhas, no less—was once an elegant palazzo beside the Grand Canal. The views from its free rooftop deck are even more spectacular than the opulent goods inside. See p. 268.

Aperitivo time in Rome.

bull.tif An Unexpected Insight into Brunelleschi’s Genius: Tucked away on the top floor of Florence’s Spedale degli Innocenti is a window with a cutaway view into the ceiling of a Brunelleschi-designed chapel below. From this angle, you can see every strut, joint, and Renaissance nail holding it up. Fascinating. See p. 196.

2

Suggested Itineraries

By Donald Strachan

Italy is so vast and treasure-filled, it’s hard to resist the temptation to pack too much into too short a time. This is a dauntingly diverse destination, and you can’t even skim the surface in one or two weeks—so relax, don’t try. If you’re a first-time visitor with limited time, we suggest you max out on the classic trio: Rome, Florence, and Venice can be packed into one very busy week, better yet in two.

How can you accomplish that? Well, in addition to having one of Europe’s better highway networks (called autostrade), Italy has one of the continent’s most efficient high-speed rail networks. Rome is a key hub of this 21st-century transportation empire; from Rome’s Termini station, Florence can be reached in only 91 minutes. If you’re city-hopping, you need never rent a car. Key routes (which include the Venice–Florence–Rome line) are served by comfortable, fast trains. You’ll only require a rental car for rural detours.

The following itineraries take you to some of our favorite places. The pace may be a bit breathless for some visitors, so skip a stop occasionally to enjoy some chill-out time—after all, you’re on vacation. Of course, you can also use any of our itineraries as a jumping-off point to develop your own adventure.

Rome, Florence & Venice in 1 Week

Let’s be realistic: It’s impossible to see Italy’s three iconic cities fully in a week. However, a fast, efficient rail network along the Rome–Florence–Venice line means it’s surprisingly easy to see some of the best they offer. This weeklong itinerary treads the familiar highlights, but there’s a reason why they’re Italy’s most-visited sights—they’re sure to provide memories that will last a lifetime.

Days 1, 2 & 3: Rome: The Eternal City Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

You could spend a month touring Italy’s capital, but 3 days is enough to get the flavor of it. There are two essential areas to focus on. The first is the legacy of Imperial Rome, including the Forum, Campidoglio, and Colosseum (p. 95). Bookend your day with the Forum and Colosseum (one first, the other last) to avoid the busiest crowds; the same ticket is good for both. On Day 2, tackle St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museums (p. 90), with a collection unlike any other in the world (including Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel). On Day 3, it’s a toss-up: Choose between the underground catacombs of the Via Appia Antica (p. 126); or the well-trod streets of the Centro Storico (p. 107) and the Tridente (p. 112), where you can wander from Piazza Navona to the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and the Trevi Fountain. Spend your evenings in the bars of Campo de’ Fiori or Monti (p. 111) and the restaurants of Trastevere (p. 79) or Testaccio (p. 81). At the end of Day 3, catch the late train to Florence. Be sure to buy tickets in advance—on the high-speed network, walk-up fares are much more expensive than prebooked tickets.

Italy in 1 Week

Days 4 & 5: Florence: Cradle of the Renaissance Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

You have 2 whole days to explore the city of Giotto, Leonardo, Botticelli, and Michelangelo. Start with their masterpieces at the Uffizi (p. 181; definitely prebook tickets, months ahead if possible), then explore the Duomo complex (p. 175): Scale Brunelleschi’s ochre dome and follow up with a visit to the adjoining Battistero di San Giovanni, the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, and the Campanile di Giotto (p. 178). Start the next day with David at the Accademia (p. 193). Spend the rest of your day getting to know the intimate wall paintings of San Marco (p. 194), paintings hanging at the Palazzo Pitti (p. 198), and Masaccio’s revolutionary frescoes in the Cappella Brancacci (p. 200). In the evenings, stay south of the Arno, in San Frediano or San Niccolò, for lively wine bars and better restaurants than you generally find in the historic center (p. 150).

Rome’s Flavian Amphitheater, better known as the Colosseum.

Days 6 & 7: Venice: The City That Defies the Sea Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

Head to Venice via early train in the morning. You’ll ride into the heart of Venice on a vaporetto (water bus), taking in the Grand Canal, the world’s greatest main street. Begin your sightseeing at Piazza San Marco (p. 267): The Basilica di San Marco is right there, and after exploring it, visit the nearby Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace; p. 265) before walking over the Bridge of Sighs. Begin your evening with the classic Venetian aperitivo, an Aperol spritz (Aperol with sparkling prosecco wine and soda) followed by cicchetti (Venetian tapas) before a late dinner. Make your second day all about the city’s art: the Gallerie dell’Accademia (p. 270), the modern Peggy Guggenheim Collection (p. 272), and San Rocco (p. 276). Catch the latest train you can back to Rome. Or add another night; you can never stay too long in Venice.

The Bridge of Sighs, the Doge’s Palace, Venice.

A 2-Week Itinerary

It’s obviously difficult to see the top sights of Italy—and to see them properly—in just 2 weeks. But in this itinerary, we show you some of the best of them. We’ll add some significant detours from the Rome–Florence–Venice trail, heading south to Pompeii, Europe’s most complete Roman ruins; north to Pisa (for the Leaning Tower and more); and making day trips to Padua (with its Giotto frescoes), and Verona (city of lovers since Romeo and Juliet).

Days 1, 2 & 3: Rome Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

Follow the Rome itinerary suggested in Italy in 1 Week, above. Rome will actually be your base for 5 days (days 4 and 5 will be day trips from Rome); for this longer stay, you should consider apartment rental rather than a hotel room in the capital; see Self-Catering Apartments, p. 54.

Day 4: Pompeii: A Day Trip to Europe’s Best-Preserved Roman Ruins Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg

Early on Day 4, take the high-speed Frecciarossa or Italo train from Rome to Naples (1½ hr.), then a Circumvesuviana train 24km (15 miles) southeast of Naples to wander the archaeological remains at Pompeii (p. 143). If you can, pack water and a lunch—onsite services aren’t great. Buried for almost 2,000 years, after nearby Vesuvius erupted in

a.d.

79, Pompeii exhibits some of the great archaeological treasures of Italy, including the patrician Casa dei Vettii and the frescoed Villa dei Misteri. You’ll return to Rome for overnight. Tip: This is a very long day; it may be easier to do as an escorted visit by bus from Rome. Several operators offer it; ask at your hotel or at one of Rome’s tourist information points (see Visitor Information, p. 45).

Italy in 2 Weeks

Day 5: Tivoli: A Day Trip to Rome’s Imperial Villa Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg

Take your foot off the gas with a more relaxed day trip, 32km (20 miles) northeast of Rome to Tivoli (p. 139). Emperor Hadrian’s serene rural retreat here, the Villa Adriana (p. 139), is the grandest retirement residence you’ll ever see, complete with theaters, baths, fountains, and gardens. This emperor had a good eye for design.

Days 6 & 7: Florence Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

Take an early train to Florence (or depart the evening before). Follow the itinerary in Rome, Florence & Venice in 1 Week, p. 10, then use Florence as your base for 3 more days, as you explore Siena, San Gimignano, and Pisa.

Day 8: A Day Trip to Gothic Siena Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

It’s just over an hour to Siena (p. 211) on the rapida bus from Florence. On arrival, set out immediately for Piazza del Campo, the shell-shaped main square, including its art-filled Museo Civico (inside the Palazzo Pubblico). You still have time to squeeze in a fast look at the Duomo and Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana, where you’ll find Sienese master Duccio’s giant Maestà painting. Stop on the Campo for a late afternoon drink, then grab an early dinner at a restaurant in Siena’s atmospheric back streets. The last bus back to Florence departs at 8:45pm, arriving back in Florence at 10pm (the last bus on weekends is usually 7:10pm).

Day 9: San Gimignano: A Town Stuck in the 1300s Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg

It’s another long day on buses, but well worth it to see one of the most perfectly preserved Gothic towns in Europe. You change buses in Poggibonsi for the last, outrageously pretty leg through vine-clad hills to San Gimignano (p. 217). In its medieval heyday, the city of beautiful towers had over 70 turrets spiking the sky above its tiny, crowded plot. Now just a handful remain, including the Torre Grossa (which you can climb). The frescoed Collegiata is the essential art stop. You can dine early at Chiribiri (it’s open all day), then leave on the late bus. Or consider renting a car: The roads of central Tuscany are pretty any time of year, and there’s good signposted parking on San Gimignano’s outskirts.

Michelangelo’s David in the Accademia, Florence.

Day 10: Pisa & Its Leaning Tower Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg

A fast train from Florence takes only 45 minutes to Pisa, with its set-piece piazza, one of the most photographed slices of real estate on the planet. Pisa’s Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) is home to the Leaning Tower (p. 216), of course; book a slot ahead of time if you want to climb it. A combination ticket admits you to the rest of the piazza’s sights, including the Duomo, with its Arab-influenced Pisan-Romanesque façade, and the Battistero, with its carved pulpit and crazy acoustics. Head away from the piazza for dining alla pisana—the real Pisa lies in the warren of streets around the market square, Piazza delle Vettovaglie. Finish your visit with a stroll on the handsome promenade along the River Arno. Take a late train back to Florence (the last fast connection departs at 9:30pm).

Days 11 & 12: Venice Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

Set out early the next morning for Venice, where you’ll spend the next 4 nights. For the first 2 days, follow the itinerary suggested in Rome, Florence & Venice in 1 Week, p. 10.

Day 13: Padua & Its Giotto Frescoes Red-Star1_redstar1.jpg

Lying only 40km (25 miles) west of Venice, Padua (p. 290) is a fairly relaxed day trip by train. Visit the Basilica di Sant’Antonio (p. 292) to see its Donatello bronzes and the Cappella degli Scrovegni (p. 291) for its Giotto frescoes—perhaps the most important paintings in the history of pre-Renaissance Italian art. Return to Venice for the night.

Day 14: Verona: City of Lovers & Gladiators Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

Although he likely never set foot in the place, Shakespeare placed the world’s most famous love story here, Romeo and Juliet. Wander Piazza dei Signori and Piazza delle Erbe, before descending on the Arena di Verona (p. 293), the world’s best-preserved gladiatorial arena: It’s still packed out for monumental opera performances on summer evenings. Book ahead for a high-speed train back to Venice—it takes just 1 hour, 10 minutes, compared with over 2 hours for a slower regional train service.

Italy for Families

Italy is probably the friendliest family vacation destination in all Europe. Logistically, it presents few challenges. If you’re traveling by rental car with young children, request safety car seats ahead of time, so the rental company can arrange for a seat which complies with EU regulations. Reduced-price family fares are available on much of the high-speed network; ask when you buy your tickets or contact a booking agent. You won’t need to hunt for child-friendly restaurants or special kids’ menus—there is always plenty available for little ones, even dishes not on the grownup menu. If you have a fussy eater, never be afraid to ask—pretty much any request is met with a smile.

Piazza Bra and Verona’s Arena.

A few tips from parents who’ve been there: Space museum visits so you get a chance to see the masterpieces but your youngsters don’t suffer a meltdown from too many paintings of saints and holy bambini. Punctuate every day with a gelato stop—Italy makes the world’s best ice cream (you’ll easily find soya-milk options for the lactose-intolerant). It’s a good idea to limit long, tiring day trips out of town, especially by public transportation. And end your trip in Venice—most kids assume it was dreamed up by Walt Disney anyway.

Day 1: Rome’s Ancient Ruins Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

History is on your side here: The wonders of Ancient Rome (p. 95) should appeal as much to kids as to adults. There are plenty of gory tales to tell at the Colosseum (p. 98), where the bookshop has a broad selection of city guides aimed at kids. After that, little ones can let off steam wandering the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill. (The roadside ruins of the Imperial Forums can be viewed at any time.) Cap the afternoon by exploring the Villa Borghese (p. 117), a monumental park in the heart of the city; rent bikes or visit the small zoo in the park’s northeast section. For dinner, tuck into crispy crusts at an authentic Roman pizzeria, such as Li Rioni (p. 72).

Day 2: Rome After the Romans Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

Head early to St. Peter’s Basilica (p. 88), before the long lines form. Kids will find it spooky wandering the Vatican grottoes, and relish the opportunity to climb up to Michelangelo’s dome. After lunch, begin your assault on the Vatican Museums (p. 90) and the Sistine Chapel (be sure to book advance tickets; it’s worth the 4€ to skip the lines). Even if your kids don’t like art museums, they will gawk at the grandeur. Later in the day, head for the iconic Spanish Steps (p. 112), then wander over to the Trevi Fountain (p. 116). Give the kids coins to toss into the fountain, which is said to ensure their return to Rome—perhaps when they are older and can better appreciate the city’s many more artistic attractions.

Italy for Families

Day 3: Rome Underground Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

There are, literally, layers of history below the city streets, and kids will love exploring the catacombs of the Via Appia Antica (p. 126), the first cemetery of Rome’s Christian community, where the devout secretly practiced their faith during periods of persecution. Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com; see p. 129) runs an excellent family tour of the city’s subterranean layers (285€ per party). Eat more pizza before you leave; Rome’s pizzerias are bettered only by those in Naples, to the south . . . and our next recommended stops all lie north.

Touring the Roman Forum.

Days 4 & 5: Florence: City of the Renaissance Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

Take the early train to Florence. While it’s usually thought of as more of an adult city, there’s enough here to fill 2 family days, plus a couple of day trips. (With day trips, you’ll be staying 4 nights in Florence, consider taking an apartment rather than a hotel room, to give you space to spread out; see p. 156.) Begin with the city’s monumental main square, Piazza della Signoria, an open-air museum of statues with the Palazzo Vecchio (p. 186) dominating one side; you can tour it on special child-friendly itineraries, including a chance to explore its secret passages. Turn your afternoon visit to the Uffizi (p. 181; definitely should be prebooked) into a treasure trail by first visiting the gift shop to buy postcards of key artworks. On the second morning, kids will delight in climbing to the top of Brunelleschi’s dome on the Duomo (p. 178) for a classic panorama. Book a slot for as early as possible; waiting times often lengthen during the day. If the kids still have energy to burn, climb the 414 steps up to the Campanile di Giotto (p. 178), run around in the Giardino di Boboli (p. 197), eat some of Italy’s best gelato (p. 173), and stroll the Ponte Vecchio (p. 188) at dusk.

Day 6: Pisa & Its Leaning Tower Red-Star2_redstar2.jpg

With children seven or under, you may want to skip Pisa (p. 214): Eight is the minimum age for the disorienting ascent up the bell tower of Pisa’s cathedral, more commonly known as the Leaning Tower. Older kids will appreciate the hyperreal monuments of the Campo dei Miracoli and learning about the city’s Galileo links: He was born here, and supposedly discovered his law of pendulum motion while watching a swinging lamp inside the Duomo. Before returning to Florence, sample a local specialty, cecina—a pizzalike flatbread made of garbanzo-bean flour—at Il Montino. Rail connections between Florence and Pisa are frequent, fast (60–80 min.), and affordable (under 9€ each way).

Day 7: Gothic Siena Red-Star3_redstar3.jpg

Count yourself lucky if you can visit Siena (p. 211) around July 2 or August 16 for the famous 4-day Palio celebrations, when horses race around Piazza del Campo. Year-round, however, a couple of epic climbs will thrill the kids. The Torre del Mangia—the bell tower of the Palazzo Pubblico—yields a dramatic view of the city and countryside. Through the Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana, they can scale the Facciatone for a dizzying view down into the Campo. At Santa Maria della Scala, they will find Bambimus, the art museum for kids, with paintings hung at child-friendly heights. The zebra-striped Duomo is jazzy enough to pique their curiosity, and Siena’s bakeries are famed for their sweet treats. Take the bus back to Florence after an early dinner. (Note: Bus service is much