Simple Pleasures
By Chris Fennimore and Daniel Agüera
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Simple Pleasures - Chris Fennimore
RECIPES
BREAD AND SUCH
Chris – Like the song says, let’s start at the very beginning. Making bread is a miracle that transforms lifeless flour and pure water into one of the simplest and most satisfying of pleasures. It is both a miracle to create and a delight to consume and so it has been for millennia.
Every culture has its variations. One of my great childhood pleasures was to dip a plain piece of bread into the Sunday tomato sauce as it simmered on the stove. And the first solid food of any baby in our family is a hunk of bread for them to gnaw on.
Daniel – The smell of bread rising and bread baking can trigger early childhood memories of home. In my mind, I can still see the corner of the kitchen table right against the wall where the bread would rise, covered with a kitchen towel. I remember peeking under those towels many times, wondering what was going on under there.
Chris
These two recipes really belong together because they create one of the most satisfying combinations of simple pleasures – bread and butter. That phrase has crept its way into our vernacular to stand for the very basics, the things we are most comfortable with. But real bread and butter has fallen out of the repertoire of most home cooks. Milk, honey, yeast, flour and a little salt are all that are needed to create this dynamic duo of comfort foods.
A NOTE ABOUT FLOUR
I generally use bread flour or high-gluten flour for this recipe, but all-purpose flour works just fine.
Milk and Honey Bread with Homemade Butter
Makes ½ pound of butter (plus 2 cups of whey or buttermilk) and 2 loaves of bread
BREAD
INGREDIENTS
2 cups whey (you can also use regular milk or buttermilk)
¼ cup warm water (115°F)
2 teaspoons dry yeast
¼ cup honey
5 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
STEPS
• Dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Add the honey and stir to combine. The yeast should begin to foam.
• Put the flour and the whey into the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the yeast and honey mixture and finally the salt.
• Beat on low speed with the dough hook until the mixture is combined. Increase the speed a notch and continue to knead until the dough forms a ball and cleans the side of the bowl. This should take around 5 minutes. If the dough appears very stiff and dry you can add a few tablespoons of water. If it is too wet you can add a few tablespoons more of flour.
• Take out the dough hook and cover the bowl. Let the dough rise for about an hour. It should double in size.
• Preheat the oven to 350°F.
• Coat the inside of 2 loaf pans with nonstick spray.
• Sprinkle a little flour on your work surface and pull the dough out of the bowl. Cut it in half. Press one half into an approximate 8-inch square. Roll it up tightly and place, seam side down, into one of the pans. Repeat with the remaining dough. Cover loosely with a towel and let rise again until the dough is an inch or more above the rim of the pan.
• Bake the loaves for 35–40 minutes or until a thermometer registers over 200°F. Let the loaves cool in the pan for 5 minutes and then empty onto a rack to cool completely.
• Cut into thick slices with a serrated knife and enjoy with a big slather of your fresh butter.
BUTTER
INGREDIENTS
1 quart heavy cream (avoid the ultra-pasteurized if possible)
Salt to taste
STEPS
• Add the cream to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Turn the machine on low. In a few minutes the cream will begin to thicken. A little bit longer and the cream will start to stiffen. And finally, the butter and whey will separate in the bowl.
• Use your hands to gather the butter together and squeeze any excess moisture back into the bowl.
• Place the butter on a flat surface, knead in a little salt, if desired, and shape into a log or press it into a crock.
Chris
I tried to research the origin of this name for a dish my mother made for me as a special treat when I was home sick from school or on occasional Saturday mornings. I seem to remember that she always suggested it when she thought I was a little down in the dumps. After a pretty exhaustive online search, I have come to the conclusion that it was just a clever way for Mom to try and cheer me up. I was a big fan of Davy Crockett (there are embarrassing pictures of me in a coonskin cap which we will NOT include here) and the use of his name elevated the status of this simple sweetened