Photographing Iceland: An Insider's Guide to the Most Iconic Locations
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About this ebook
In order to make the most of your trip—no matter how long it is—Photographing Iceland provides you with five unique photography-focused itineraries that cover 40 must-see locations for you to capture. Photographer and Iceland expert Martin Schulz is your guide, providing you with exact directions and location descriptions (including QR codes with Google Maps links), along with tips and advice on the best time of day to visit locations and ideal angles from which to shoot. (Because who wants to end up on the wrong side of Europe’s largest waterfall, Dettifoss, shooting it against harsh midday sunlight?) Itineraries conveniently start and end in Reykjavik, allowing you to complete multiple tours on your trip or combine tours for one epic adventure.
- • Trip 1: Snæfellsnes (West Iceland)
- • Trip 2: The North of Iceland
- • Trip 3: The South Coast of Iceland
- • Trip 4: Golden Circle Plus the Secret Waterfalls
- • Trip 5: Reykjavík
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Photographing Iceland - Martin Schulz
Martin Schulz
PHOTOGRAPHING ICELAND
An Insider’s Guide to the
Most Iconic Locations
Photographing Iceland
Martin Schulz
www.martin-schulz.photography/en
Editor: Joan Dixon
Translation: Jeremy Cloot
Interior design: Anna Diechtierow
Layout production: Petra Strauch
Cover design: Aren Straiger
Project manager: Lisa Brazieal
Marketing coordinator: Mercedes Murray
ISBN: 978-1-68198-408-7
1st Edition (1st printing, October 2018)
© 2018 by dpunkt.verlag, GmbH, Heidelberg, Germany
Original German title: Island fotografieren
German ISBN: 978-3-86490-509-4
Translation copyright © 2018 by Rocky Nook, Inc. All rights reserved.
All images © Martin Schulz unless otherwise noted
Rocky Nook, Inc.
1010 B Street, Suite 350
San Rafael, CA 94901
USA
www.rockynook.com
Distributed in the U.S. by Ingram Publisher Services
Distributed in the UK and Europe by Publishers Group UK
Library of Congress Control Number: 2018937758
All rights reserved. No part of the material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduced or utilized in any form, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission of the publisher.
Many of the designations in this book used by manufacturers and sellers to distinguish their products are claimed as trademarks of their respective companies. Where those designations appear in this book, and Rocky Nook was aware of a trademark claim, the designations have been printed in caps or initial caps. All product names and services identified throughout this book are used in editorial fashion only and for the benefit of such companies with no intention of infringement of the trademark. They are not intended to convey endorsement or other affiliation with this book.
While reasonable care has been exercised in the preparation of this book, the publisher and author assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein or from the use of the discs or programs that may accompany it.
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
Printed in China
For my dear wife Alice,
without whom none of this would be possible.
And for my wonderful son Erik—welcome to life on Earth.
Over a period of many years, photographer Martin Schulz has traveled throughout Iceland at all times of the year. Even after numerous visits, he continues to be enthralled by the island’s monumental grandeur and he knows all of its most fascinating locations.
Landscape photography is the cornerstone of Schulz’s work. His images capture the innate beauty of our planet, and they show his respect and admiration for the natural world. For more of his enchanting, atmospheric images, visit www.martin-schulz.photography/en.
Table of Contents
Introduction
TOUR 1: THE SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA
The Red Beaches at Búðir
The Black Church at Búðir (Búðakirkja)
The Coast at Arnarstapi and Gatklettur
Lóndrangar
Black Sand and Glaciers at Snæfellsjökull
Kirkjufell
TOUR 2: THE NORTH
Goðafoss
Aldeyarfoss
Hrafnabjargafoss
Dimmuborgir
Hverarönd and Hverir
Leirhnjúkur
Dettifoss
TOUR 3: ICELAND’S SOUTHERN COAST
Seljalandsfoss
Gljúfurárfoss
Skógafoss
Kvernufoss
The Airplane Wreck at Sólheimarsandur
The Black Sand Beach at Vík
The Reynisdrangar and Reynisfjara
The View at Kirkjufjara and Puffin Watching
Dyrhólaey
Þakgil
Lómagnúpur
Svínafellsjökull
Jökulsárlón
Breiðamerkursandur
Vestrahorn and Klifatindur
TOUR 4: THE EXTENDED GOLDEN CIRCLE AND THE HIDDEN WATERFALLS
Geysir and Strokkur
Gullfoss
Brúarfoss
Þingvellir
Öxarárfoss
Háifoss
Þjófafoss
TOUR 5: REYKJAVÍK
Harpa
Grótta
Photo Skills
Recommended Websites
Introduction
Iceland—the land of fire and ice. A land of active volcanoes, black beaches, steep cliffs, magnificent waterfalls, and icebergs that float past huge lava fields. Iceland is a land of contrasts that covers just 40,000 square miles but offers an extreme variety of landscapes.
Not long ago, Iceland was still a secret spot for photographers, and photo tours often turned into adventures involving arduous treks and long trips along unpaved roads.
Nowadays, countless travel agencies have got the island covered, and tourism has become one of the country’s leading economic factors. New tourist infrastructure is continually expanding, and many of the most striking attractions are now easily accessible by car. Nevertheless, you only have to take a few steps off the beaten path to get away from the tourist crowds and to enjoy photographing Iceland’s natural environment at your own pace.
The ever-increasing numbers of tourists means the country is in a state of constant change. New parking areas and public restrooms are being built and many once rugged paths are being paved. Dangerous areas are fenced and signs are posted to protect both the environment and the visitors. All this comes with a financial cost, so some landowners have started charging parking and entry fees on their land. These fees are a topic of hot debate and it often takes months before such fees are approved by the government. I have noted all the current fee-paying attractions; however, with the rapidly changing situation, what might have been free at the time of writing might cost money by the time you get there.
Despite all the changes Iceland is going through, it hasn’t lost its appeal as a photographic destination. If you are visiting Iceland for the first time, you are sure to find subjects worth stopping for at every turn. And you can capture breathtaking, people-free photos of the better-known places, if you visit them at the right time of day and the right time of year.
Since my first visit 10 years ago, I have been captivated by Iceland and its natural wonders. Now, 20 visits later, it still hasn’t lost its allure for me. There are simply too many places to discover, and the quality of the light is breathtakingly different from season to season. Countless times, the grandeur of Iceland has brought me back down to earth by reminding me how relatively insignificant an individual is on this beautiful planet, and it has taught me great respect for Mother Nature. I have been fortunate to have shared all these wonderful experiences with my wife, Alice, who supports and motivates me through all my photographic adventures.
With this book, I am excited to introduce you to the beauty of Iceland and to share my enthusiasm for this wonderful place. I will help you choose the appropriate photo gear for your purposes and will give you tips on finding the best locations and the best times to capture Iceland’s incomparable marvels.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Good planning is the key to every successful trip, so this is where we will begin.
Iceland has an extremely low crime rate and is very safe to visit. In the 10 years I have traveled the island, I haven’t had a single negative experience.
On the downside, Iceland isn’t a cheap place to visit: lodging, food, and rental cars are considerably more expensive in Iceland as compared to other countries. The book includes some tips to help you keep your costs at a reasonable level.
Almost from the start of my Iceland travels, I found it more effective to stay several nights at a strategically located hotel rather than to move to a different location every day. This approach saves time and effort with packing and checking in and out, and it also reduces traveling time, thus allowing more time to take photos at your chosen locations. Staying put also means that a day’s bad weather won’t ruin your plans, as you can simply head out again the next day when the weather improves. All the tours described in this book are based on this method of travel.
HOW THIS BOOK IS ORGANIZED
The book is divided into five tours, each covering a contiguous geographical area but with locations that you can approach in any order you like. Each tour begins with a selection of starting points (usually a place of lodging). Each location covered also includes useful pointers, such as the best time of day or year to visit the site, appropriate clothing, the GPS coordinates of the site, and the best place to park. The coordinates are also provided in Quick Response (QR) codes in the margins. If you have Google Maps installed on your phone, a quick scan of a QR code will take you directly to the corresponding location on the map.
Each of the five tours follows a route that begins and ends in Reykjavík—taking you to the recommended lodging and back again—so you have the opportunity to visit each location on a return journey to Iceland.
When traveling in Iceland—especially when you are alone—always pay close attention to the weather and road conditions. The website recommendations listed at the end of this section are great for checking weather and road conditions, and they provide other useful information, too (see page 18).
FLIGHTS
The price of a flight to Iceland varies widely depending on where you fly from and with which airline you fly. The cheapest flights currently on offer are on WOW air, which departs from 14 major North American cities, including Los Angeles, Chicago, Boston, and New York.
Icelandair flies from a wider selection of locations and lands at Keflavík airport, which is a 45-minute drive from Reykjavík. If you book early, Icelandair flights seem to have competitive fares. Check