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A Guide to Australian Dragons in Captivity
Di Danny Brown
Azioni libro
Inizia a leggereLunghezza: 863 pagine4 ore
- Editore:
- ABK Publications
- Pubblicato:
- Apr 1, 2012
- ISBN:
- 9780975820056
- Formato:
- Libro
Descrizione
Detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian dragon lizards including individual chapters on Bearded, Crevice and Rock, Two-lined, Earless, Heath, Frilled, Large Arboreal, Rainforest, Sand, Small Arboreal, and Water Dragons. General Husbandry chapters cover stock selection, handling and hygiene, transportation, security and safety, quarantine, indoor and outdoor enclosure options, enclosure size, compatibility, ventilation, substrate choices, hide sites, enclosure enrichment, heating, lighting, thermostats, invertebrate and vertebrate food items, artificial diets, culturing insect foods, dietary supplements and dealing with feeding problems. Breeding chapters include visual sexing techniques, other sexing techniques including some revolutionary new methods, courtship and mating, cooling and separation, reproductive strategies, caring for gravid females, nest facilities, egg management, artificial incubation facilities and regimes, temperature dependent sex determination, and hatchling care. Complete with a comprehensive health and disease chapter.
Informazioni sul libro
A Guide to Australian Dragons in Captivity
Di Danny Brown
Lunghezza: 863 pagine4 ore
Descrizione
Detailed information on all aspects of captive husbandry relating to the most commonly kept species of Australian dragon lizards including individual chapters on Bearded, Crevice and Rock, Two-lined, Earless, Heath, Frilled, Large Arboreal, Rainforest, Sand, Small Arboreal, and Water Dragons. General Husbandry chapters cover stock selection, handling and hygiene, transportation, security and safety, quarantine, indoor and outdoor enclosure options, enclosure size, compatibility, ventilation, substrate choices, hide sites, enclosure enrichment, heating, lighting, thermostats, invertebrate and vertebrate food items, artificial diets, culturing insect foods, dietary supplements and dealing with feeding problems. Breeding chapters include visual sexing techniques, other sexing techniques including some revolutionary new methods, courtship and mating, cooling and separation, reproductive strategies, caring for gravid females, nest facilities, egg management, artificial incubation facilities and regimes, temperature dependent sex determination, and hatchling care. Complete with a comprehensive health and disease chapter.
- Editore:
- ABK Publications
- Pubblicato:
- Apr 1, 2012
- ISBN:
- 9780975820056
- Formato:
- Libro
Informazioni sull'autore
Danny Brown was born in 1970 and has been an avid keeper of birds and reptiles since the age of nine. He completed a Bachelor of Science degree in 1991 with a major in Ethology and Conservation Biology. In 1992, he completed a Zoology degree with Honours in the _eld of Bird Behaviour. While completing his science degrees, Danny gained extensive experience working in various animal industries as a zookeeper. He also spent 12 years as a veterinary nurse. In 1997, Danny graduated from the University of Queensland with a Bachelor of Veterinary Science degree with _rst class Honours. Since then, he has worked on the Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia, as a small animal veterinarian with a special interest in avian and reptilian medicine also working in a referral role with local zoological parks. In 2002, he completed and passed his examinations and became a member of the Australian College of Veterinary Scientists in the _eld of Avian Health. He has since swapped private practise and zoo work for a role in emergency veterinary medicine and critical care. Apart from reptiles, Danny’s other passion in life is birds and he has lectured throughout Australia on avian matters. In 1995, he authored the ABK Publications title A Guide to Pigeons, Doves and Quail— Their Management, Care and Breeding and in 1998 completed A Guide to Pheasants and Waterfowl—Their Management, Care and Breeding. One year later in 1999, he was awarded the Literary Achievement Award by the Avicultural Federation of Australia Inc. In 2003, he _nished his third book Under the Microscope—Microscope Use and Pathogen Identi_cation in Birds and Reptiles. Danny is presently the federal and state patron of the Pheasant and Waterfowl Society and a member of numerous avicultural societies. His regular columns feature in a number of magazines including Just Finches and Softbill Magazine and Scales and Tails and he contributes articles to various other bird magazines. Under his screen name geckodan, Danny is also a frequent contributor to numerous online reptile forums and discussion groups. Danny also maintains a popular website at www.geckodan.com that educates people on basic reptile care and husbandry. In 2005, Danny and his wife Wendy were blessed with Stuart—a bouncing baby boy with the makings of an obsessive-compulsive animal nut like his father. Stuart keeps Danny busy most days in his role as a stay-at-home dad. In January 2009, the Brown family became busier than ever with the birth of twins Robert and Lachlan. Danny currently maintains one of the largest private lizard collections in Australia. Over the past 25 years he has kept more than 175 species of Australian lizards and bred 80% of these. He currently is keeping and breeding more than 400 specimens of 60+ species of geckos, pygopods, skinks and monitors. In addition, he maintains a collection of 350 birds including _nches, waterfowl, native and foreign softbills, quail and pigeons as well as an extensive collection of Australian and New Guinea _sh. In the rare moments Danny is not feeding something or working, he maintains an interest in Australian native plants, particularly grevilleas native to Western Australia.
Correlati a A Guide to Australian Dragons in Captivity
Anteprima del libro
A Guide to Australian Dragons in Captivity - Danny Brown
INTRODUCTION
Australia is blessed with an extremely diverse dragon population. It currently comprises over 70 species within 14–15 genera (depending on the taxonomy preferred).
The majority of dragon species are coloured cryptically with earthy colours such as browns, greens and grey, although a small proportion are quite gaudy in their colouration—often restricted to the male of the species.
Many dragon species possess ornate spine arrangements around the head and neck and, in some specimens, over most of the body.
Generally dragons are exclusively diurnal in their habits. The bulk of the species are ‘sun worshippers’ spending a considerable part of the day basking to elevate their body temperature. Some species are ‘thermoconformists’, adapting to cool rainforest conditions. These species do not bask and, as they are active at all temperatures.
More than 95% of dragon species are endemic to Australia and have developed in isolation from much of the herpetofauna of the rest of the world. The non endemic genera are shared with nearby New Guinea and parts of south-east Asia. For this reason their habits and peculiarities are unique and therefore much of the information about their captive care is not relevant to Australian species. The uniqueness of these lizards also make them popular as pets worldwide, with many Australian species among the most widely kept dragons worldwide.
Despite the fascination with Australian dragons, very little literature is available on their care and a lot of literature is based on incorrect assumptions and broad generalisations of their natural requirements. Much of this information has either oversimplified the requirements of a species (leading to later disappointment) or painted a picture of such dismal likelihood of success that it has in fact impeded the progression of dragon culture.
It is the intention of this book to approach the keeping of these species from a different perspective. Each genus or unique species has been dealt with individually, with the provided information being derived from my personal experiences and from the experiences of other people that have kept and bred these species. This has been supplemented with relevant natural history information to provide a much more balanced view of the care and breeding of these species.
It is unfortunate fact that many species of Australian reptiles are kept overseas in greater numbers than in their country of origin. This is surprisingly not so with most Australian dragon species with just a couple of exceptions. While we collectively drool over the many exotic and exciting species of Iguanas, Chameleons, geckos and monitors held in other countries, Australian keepers have managed to overlook many species in their own backyard. It is hoped that the information provided in this book will encourage Australian keepers to look more fervently at what is available now to ensure that it will continue to be available in years to come. Additionally, it is hoped that information provided here will allow overseas enthusiasts to better maintain the stocks of Australian species that they currently work with so that they will not be permanently lost from their repertoire of available species.
The information in this book is hopefully presented in such a way that the keeper is able to access the precise detail required on each genus or species in a logical manner. Peculiarities of individual species are highlighted, rather than generalised, as has been the failing of many books before this one.
This book covers all Australian genera that are currently maintained in captivity in moderate numbers at the time of publication (regardless of where in the world they may be maintained). Very rare species are not covered as they are beyond the scope of this text.
GENERAL MANAGEMENT
PET SUITABILITY
Dragons vary in their suitability as pets. Larger species, such as the extremely popular bearded dragons, Pogona species, make perfect pets—they are tame, tolerant of handling and able to form a bond with their owners—although their apparent friendliness is often food driven.
Most medium and small dragons are considered passive pets. While some species can be regularly handled, it is not something they enjoy. These species are best considered as display specimens to be observed and enjoyed for their behavioural traits and activities.
Most dragons basic husbandry needs are similar—depending on their size. For most, enclosures can be reasonably simple and relatively inexpensive to set up—appealing to keepers with restricted space or novice facilities.
CHOOSING YOUR STOCK
There are so many species of lizards to choose from when establishing a collection that it can sometimes be difficult for a beginner to decide which species is best for them. Some things to consider are:
Who is the dragon for?
Certain species are better suited to adults than children. For example, aggressive or delicate species are not recommended for children. Passive pets, such as small dragons, may not hold a child’s interest as well as a more interactive species.
Why do you want a dragon?
The intentions you have for a dragon should influence the species you select. Is it to be on display or will it be a handled pet? Few small species enjoy being handled. Species best suited for handling include bearded dragons Pogona species.
Do you really need a dragon?
You must have the time, space and money to efficiently care for a dragon. They require maintenance—some species require daily attention to remain healthy and others require considerable space and expensive food. Selecting the wrong species can leave a new keeper frustrated and disillusioned with the hobby.
Can you afford the initial setup costs?
The actual purchase price of a dragon is often the smallest portion of the total setup cost. A new keeper must purchase enclosures, lighting and heating. Different classes of reptiles have different requirements—large dragons are amongst the most expensive. Cutting corners during the initial setup will haunt you later.
Can you feed the species properly?
Species with broad dietary needs are much easier to cater for. Selecting a dragon that only dines on insects may become a burden if you cannot access or afford a regular source of live food. Large species like bearded dragon Pogona species and Frilled Dragons Chlamydosaurus kingii are ravenous feeders and can be expensive to maintain in optimum condition.
What sex do I purchase?
Generally, a male is the best choice when selecting a single dragon—they are often more active, brighter in colour and less inclined to suffer from reproductive disorders.
Do you purchase an adult or a juvenile?
Many keepers feel that purchasing a juvenile allows them to develop a bond with their pet. The disadvantages of purchasing juveniles are that they may be more difficult to care for and are often sold unsexed. However, they are usually less expensive and initially require simpler husbandry features. Some keepers prefer adults or sub adults—these dragons are already past the difficult stage, are able to be sexed and of a size that allows them to be placed immediately into adult accommodation.
Should you purchase captive bred or legally wild caught?
Captive bred dragons are far more reliable specimens than legally wild caught. Captive bred specimens are more inclined to eat commercially available foods, have limited previous exposure to parasites and generally live longer. Legally wild caught specimens may be preferable when purchasing rare species not readily offered for sale.
Should you purchase unrelated stock?
There is certainly evidence to suggest that long term inbreeding can reduce fertility and health in dragons. Where possible, see if individuals from different parents can be purchased. If not, make sure that you aim to sell unrelated offspring either by maintaining a second unrelated population or by swapping hatchlings with an associate.
Who should you purchase from?
Dealers and breeders both sell reptiles. Dealers generally have more stock available but fewer species to choose from. They are less able to provide information on the history of the dragons offered for sale and the level of advice varies greatly between each dealership. Breeders are usually able to provide greater individual history but may have limited stock. Some buyers prefer to purchase locally, however, interstate purchases can be rewarding when dealing with breeders who have a good reputation. No matter where you purchase from, make sure the seller provides adequate care instructions—just because an individual has specimens for sale does not necessarily infer any level of expertise.
Who will care for your dragon when you are not available?
Dragons will tolerate an owner’s absence for a short period of time. However, if a dragon has special needs, these will have to be catered for during any absence.
Selecting an Individual Dragon
Once you have determined which species or species group you are interested in keeping, it is time to select a healthy specimen. The following guidelines can be helpful.
•Within a group of dragons, select an individual that is bright, alert and active—these are often the most dominant specimens and generally the best feeders.
•If possible, observe the dragon’s response to food. Assuming an individual has not recently been fed, it should at least recognise the presence of food—even if your presence is a somewhat intimidating.
•Check the dragon’s movement is free and clear of the ground and that it does not move abnormally compared to others in the group.
•Check the dragon is breathing normally. Is it breathing through an open mouth—if so it may be suffering from respiratory distress or heat stress.
•If possible, handle the dragon to get an indication of its weight and strength. A weak or sickly individual will feel light and will not struggle unduly when handled.
•Examine the dragon’s physical build. Is the tail fat and rounded? Are the hips protruding? Are the muscles of the face rounded and plump? Avoid underweight dragons.
•Inspect the feet and limbs. Missing toes may not affect the health of a lizard but you should be able to negotiate a lower price. Swelling around the feet may indicate infection.
•Look down the spine for any obvious changes in symmetry, curvature or bumps.
•Check the eyes are bright and that both open simultaneously.
•The skin should shed cleanly. Retained sheds may not be significant in a single individual but if multiple dragons within the enclosure have problems, it may indicate overly hot and dry conditions.
•Inspect the tail—is it the original or a modified tail? A modified tail is usually defined by a significant change in the tail colouration and surface features. It is more common in dragons for the tail to form a stump at the site of damage but some species will regenerate tails, particularly at the tip. A modified tail is not a significant issue but some keepers require a perfect tail on a specimen. A modified tail may indicate fighting between individuals, rough handling, wild origins or heat or cold stress. An individual with tail changes is no less healthy than one with a normal tail—but it may demand a lower price.
•Check for surface parasites. Inspect the eye sockets and armpits for red mites. Although these parasites are non pathogenic, they can be unsightly. They often occur in dragons housed in outdoor enclosures, in enclosures with natural furnishings such as leaf litter and in wild caught specimens.
•Determine if the individual has been sexed. Ask the seller about the sexing method that has been used and, if possible, request that the sexual features be demonstrated to you.
•Inspect the dragon’s enclosure. Note if the conditions are clean and tidy or if the occupants are overcrowded.
•Observe the health of other dragons in the enclosure. Note if the seller appears to possess a genuine knowledge of the animals in his or her care.
HANDLING AND HYGIENE
The use of correct handling techniques when managing dragons is necessary to prevent injury to the dragon and to the handler.
Dragons are similar to skinks in that they employ biting as their main defence mechanism. The main difference between the two is that dragons have slightly less jaw pressure but much sharper teeth than skinks. Small species such as Ctenophorus are capable of drawing blood—although most choose not to. Medium and large sized species are capable of inflicting painful bites, can be tenacious and possess an actual desire to bite defensively.
Unlike most species, dragons will stand and fight and can spin around fast when approached from various angles. Other species, such as rock or sand dwelling Ctenophorus, exhibit behaviour more like skinks and flee to rock crevices or burrows when harassed.
One of the major impediments to grasping a large dragon fast is its spikes. It should be initially restrained by grasping it behind the head using the thumb and index and middle fingers. Once it has been safely restrained at ground level, move the fingers to support the individual’s chest and position the thumb to provide pressure over the shoulders. The remainder of the individual’s body can then be supported along the forearm. Once a large dragon feels restrained it will often comfortably grip the handler’s arm.
Small dragons may be supported in the palm of the hand with the thumb across the back of the shoulders and the pointer finger and middle finger supporting below the chest. This keeps them restrained whilst avoiding being bitten. An alternative handling method is to enclose them in your cupped hands but this provides little control over their movement.
Some dragon species will tolerate initial restraint by the tail, such as recommended for Pogona species. However, many others will thrash wildly when they feel pressure on the tail and may break it in the process. If you decide to attempt initial tail restraint, it should be concentrated on the first third of the tail, avoiding the tip. Move the hand further down the tail to elevate the body and slide it under the belly.
Tail handling is not recommended if a specimen is aggressive. Dragons can spin the length of their body around quite easily, to bite a restraining hand. Tail support is suitable when positioning a specimen for better neck restraint. Large and aggressive dragons may be restrained with a light towel.
TRANSPORTATION
Once you have selected a dragon you will have to transport it to its new home. There are two main options with different things to take into consideration—short journeys or longer journeys.
Short Journeys
A short journey refers to the movement of a dragon within a single facility or between facilities within driving distance of each other. The former is generally for the purposes of pairing, separation, removal of offspring or pre-sale. The key to safely transporting dragons on short journeys is preparation and the use of safe and secure storage containers appropriate for the species being transported. It is recommended to always have a range of containers stored nearby that can be used in case of an emergency.
For the transportation of most small species, takeaway food containers purchased in bulk from supermarkets and commercial catering suppliers are suitable. Ventilation holes in the containers are essential—use a soldering iron to melt appropriately sized holes around the perimeter or on the lid. Lunch boxes and various sealed food containers can be treated with much the same method, but these containers take up more space. Bags should be avoided for transporting any dragon smaller than 10cm SVL—I have experienced mishaps including escapes, thread entanglements and crushing injuries.
Among very small species, I have never experienced issues with aggression between individuals in the same container if the container is an appropriate size. However, when in doubt, opt for one dragon per container.
For the transportation of medium sized dragons, larger plastic containers with lockable lids are recommended. Buckets with lids are suitable for use for moving at home. Cardboard mailing tubes with ventilation provided via holes in the plastic caps are also suitable. Bags can be used but they must be clean, made of lightweight cotton, have all seams turned to the outside and be of an appropriate size—a bag 3 SVL wide x 5 SVL deep is ideal for a single specimen. Rounded corners will help prevent suffocation. A method known as ‘goose necking’ can be used to seal the bag—simply twist the end of the bag and fold it back on itself. Then close it with multiple rubber bands, plastic cable ties or a cloth tie to prevent escapes.
When handling species with long tails, ensure the tail tip does not become trapped in the bag opening. For increased security place the bag inside a plastic tub, small foam esky, cardboard box or bucket. Do not stack the bags—this may limit ventilation for dragons located on the bottom. Tape or clothes pegs can be used to separate bags within a single container. Only one individual should be packed per bag. Be aware of specimens bagged in proximity to each other—predators can still smell prey through bags.
Large species are more difficult to accommodate—their sharp claws can tear through some materials. Large, heavy grade bags and pillowcases may be used if they are of sufficient thickness. Hessian or plastic feedbags are not suitable.
Double bagging is recommended for transporting very large dragons—also place the bag in a hard plastic or timber container. Rubbish bins with lockable lids are useful for short term holding periods. Lengths of water pipe with ventilated caps can also be useful. Only one individual should be packed per container.
When transporting dragons by vehicle, precautions must be taken to avoid fluctuating temperatures. Containers must be kept out of direct sunlight and positioned to ensure they do not roll around in the vehicle. Clear tubs can act as miniature greenhouses, killing dragons even after minimal exposure to direct sunlight. Temperature fluctuations can be controlled to some degree by placing all containers inside an insulated box such as a polystyrene esky—this also prevents bagged animals from moving around and rolling themselves into the sunlight. On hot days in vehicles where air conditioning is not available, small ice bricks can be placed inside the esky to cool it. These blocks must not be placed directly against the container and should be wrapped in a light towel. Reptiles should never be left in a closed vehicle. Despite their heat loving nature, they will stress and die if forced to endure consistently high temperatures.
Special precautions must be observed for aquatic or heat sensitive species. Small species should be packed in wet sphagnum moss to provide moisture and to allow the evaporation to cool the local environment. Larger aquatic species may travel better if packed in moistened cloth bags.
Long Journeys
Due to the wide reach of the internet and telephone, it is not unusual that we may never meet the person that we purchase our reptiles from. The long distances involved in many transactions mean that dragons are regularly transported via road and air.
Transporting dragons by road in Australia is unreliable. In my experience, the only courier services that can be trusted are the few specialist reptile transportation companies in operation. Although other courier companies may accept reptiles, this does not mean their vehicles or drivers are aware of, or prepared for, the special requirements of transporting live reptiles.
It is the sole responsibility of the reptile keeper to ensure they follow freight protocols and regulations so that freight companies can continue to provide the services we expect them to.
Reptiles should be packaged according to guidelines set down by the International Air Transport Authority (IATA). If all keepers comply with these regulations, minimal problems should arise. When mishaps do occur, keepers must remember that they are not the only person freighting items that day. If items are misdirected, temporarily misplaced or flights are cancelled or redirected, items packaged correctly are unmistakable and are far less likely to be misplaced. Dragons are generally quite resilient. With the exception of some heat sensitive species, misplaced dragons will generally cope quite well for the first 24–48 hours. It is very important to maintain a friendly relationship with your local front of counter staff as, although mishaps may not be their direct fault, they are the people who will fix any issues that may arise. In my experience, your attitude towards them significantly impacts their attitude.
The basic requirements for the transportation of dragons via air freight in Australia (IATA 2005) are—
•All containers and bags should contain some type of packing material such as crumpled or shredded paper.
•All animals held in a single bag should be of the same size and species.
•IATA’s recommended packing densities are generally excessive and not recommended for health and safety reasons. The recommendations are the same for when containers are used. Note that the recommendations given are for maximum densities. Therefore, it is more appropriate to calculate the size of a bag or container for a single animal based on the same as the SVL size.
•If the bag is suspended within the container, it must be suspended from both ends and the maximum number of animals should be halved.
•When transporting large dragons, the position of the head should be marked on the exterior of the box.
Boxes must be constructed according to the following criteria:
Timber Boxes
Must be constructed from water resistant fibreboard, hardboard or plywood of a minimum of three ply.
•Must have small ventilation holes or ventilation holes screened with wire mesh.
•Must have separate ventilation provided in each divider within a multi-compartment container.
•May be surrounded by polystyrene to provide insulation.
•Must have smooth internal surfaces.
•Must be labelled with an approved label indicating the presence of live animals within the container and an approved label indicating the correct orientation of the package.
Plastic Containers
•Must be constructed of rigid plastic that is capable of supporting the weight of the containers stacked around it—either upright or upside down—without bending, cracking or collapsing.
•Must be of a size that allows an animal’s entire ventral surface to have contact with the floor of the container within.
•Must have ventilated openings on all sides.
•Animals must be contained within a timber box placed inside the plastic container.
Small dragons should be fed no less than six hours and larger dragons no less than 12 hours before packaging. All reptiles will cool in transit and are unable to digest food during this period.
Internal containers should include a non-slip surface—slightly moist paper towel or toilet tissue is suitable as it will stick to the container floor and maintain higher humidity, which can be important for very small specimens. For small arboreal specimens, shredded paper is ideal as it provides a lightweight and safe surface to grip on to. It should be packed tight enough to ensure it does not move around within the container but allows the animal to move between the paper strips. For bagged specimens, shredded paper is also ideal for supporting the bags and for providing separation between adjacent bags.
PURCHASE AND FREIGHT ETIQUETTE
Buying and selling dragons can sometimes be a frustrating process. However, most problems can be avoided if buyers and sellers follow some basic common sense rules.
Buyers
•Check your licence conditions before purchase. Make sure your specific licence allows you to keep the species you are enquiring about.
•If you have no intention of purchasing an animal, do not put the seller through the process of advising on feeding and housing, supplying photos, organising freight prices and checking flight availability—you will be called a ‘tyre kicker’. Such people are the curse of the reptile scene and force many a breeder underground and to cease advertising.
•Do not attempt to undercut other purchasers by offering more than the successful bidder. Apart from being rude, a seller willing to accept this deal could be willing to mislead you about other aspects of the sale.
•Do not be late for a face-to-face purchase or advise if you are running late.
•Pay promptly. Do not string a buyer along—they will be turning down other potential buyers while they await your payment. Do not expect the seller to ship before the payment has been sighted.
•Assume freight will be an additional cost. Sellers rarely advertise freight inclusive prices.
•Advise the seller once you have paid.
•Advise the seller of your location. Some regions may not have access to air freight and may require a different transportation approach.
•Give clear instructions as to when you are able to receive the dragons.
•Apply for permits immediately—some authorities may be very slow at issuing them. Most sellers will not hold an animal for an extra month because you were late organising your paperwork.
•When contacting the seller, supply your full name and a contact phone number. Sellers are not going to write out a permit to your online nickname—they need your details.
•Clearly specify to which airport the reptiles are to be sent and the name of the person picking them up. Freight depots will only hand animals over to the person named on the box.
•Be contactable at all times 24 hours before the shipment or at least let the seller know the best times to contact you.
•Be sure about what you are buying. Do not purchase a hatchling and then complain because it is not of adult size.
•Be sure of whether you are buying sexed or unsexed stock. If a species cannot be sexed at the age it is sold or by the person selling it then you purchase at your own risk.
•Attempt to ask all of your questions at once to save time for both parties. If you are not sure about something ask—but twenty seven emails for twenty seven questions becomes very tedious for the seller.
•Communicate with the seller post purchase to let them know when the reptiles have arrived and if you are happy with them.
•Provide proof of injury or death. If an animal arrives injured or dead, you must be able to prove this and must inform the seller immediately. I recommend unpacking the dragons in the car at the airport. If it is dead on arrival, take it in to show the freight counter staff and ask them to provide written proof of its death—they are obliged to do this if the freight consignment was insured. If the animal is injured or unwell, it is your responsibility to provide evidence of time and date such as via photographs or a veterinarian report indicating the extent of injuries.
Sellers
•Advertise honestly. Negative feedback spreads like wildfire through the herpetological community.
•Be prepared before advertising dragons for sale. Highly sought after items may sell fast. It is quite disconcerting for the buyer when a seller advertises and then makes the purchaser wait weeks to receive their goods because they did not have what was advertised and were unprepared for the sale process.
•Clearly specify the cost of each dragon listed for sale and the price for freight. It is a common misconception among first time buyers that freight is included in the cost.
•Do not double sell. If a buyer has committed to a sale, do not on-sell to the person who offers a higher price or can organise permits earlier. If the sale is completed face-to-face, do not sell to the first to arrive if they were not the first to call. Contact the original enquirer to ascertain if they are still committed to the purchase.
•Stay contactable. There is nothing more frustrating for a buyer than a seller who cannot be contacted after a sale has been confirmed.
•Remove advertisements once an item is sold.
•Give the buyer plenty of notice if you cannot freight on the day you had previously organised. Many people leave early from work or organise family members to be available when delivery is expected. It can be helpful if these people are made aware of a change in plans a couple of days in advance.
•Package animals and label them correctly.
•Be willing to accept returns. If an individual is truly unhappy with a purchase and contacts you within a fair period of time—usually in the first 24 hours—you should be willing to accept the animal back and offer a replacement or a refund. This should be valid in the case of mistaken gender, misidentification of species or obvious life threatening illness. A replacement or refund is not acceptable because of poor decision making on behalf of the buyer or a change of mind.
•Be willing to offer a replacement or refund in the case of death or injury. If a dragon is injured or dies before the buyer gets it home, or within the first 24 hours after purchase, and the cause was not the buyer’s fault, a reasonable seller will refund the costs or exchange or replace the animal. How much to refund and who accepts further cost should be negotiated between the buyer and seller.
LEGAL REQUIREMENTS
The keeping of native animals in Australia and in other countries worldwide is controlled and legislated by various state, regional and federal government authorities. These rules and regulations are designed to protect animals from being exploited but may vary between locations. Therefore, it is important to understand your legal rights and responsibilities and be aware of the basic requirements in each state. If you follow these rules to the best of your ability, ask questions when you are unsure of anything, and maintain adequate records you should experience few problems.
Hobbyists should be aware of the following issues in particular:
•It is illegal, without appropriate authority, to take a dragon from the wild to keep in captivity. The only exception is if the animal is injured and requires veterinary care. Legislation varies between states—for example, some will allow you to care for an animal for 72 hours without notifying the relevant authority, others will require you be registered with a wildlife rescue organisation to care for the animal.
•It is illegal and ecologically irresponsible to release a captive bred dragon into the wild unless it is part of an authorised captive breeding program.
•Different authorities have different rules concerning which species can be kept without a licence. Licence exempt species still require records to be kept on the animal’s origin.
•Most legislation delegates species to varying licence classes according to their difficulty of care. This may not be consistent between authorities—check that you are appropriately licensed before committing to a transaction.
•It is the responsibility of the purchaser and seller of any reptile species to be aware of
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