How To Train A Police Bloodhound And Scent Discriminating Patrol Dog: Second Edition

Robin and Kevin taking a break in Wyoming

This Second Edition published in 2014

© 2010 First Edition Kevin and Robin Kocher

InterNational Bloodhound Training Institute (INTBI) Virginia

USA Website: www.bloodhoundtraining.com

European Website: www.inbti-europe.com

Facebook: Kevin John Kocher

Acknowledgments

I would like to thank my older brother Jim Kocher. After all these years, I find he still has the ability to teach me lessons about life. Because of him, I understand that some deeds are not done for those I perceive as undeserving, but because that is the person I should strive to be.

To my two editors:

Karen Porter Gheesling, who first started straightening out my imperfect English, Thank you for your hard work. I know how daunting the task must have appeared.

Cynthia Weesner, who indeed took command of a floundering project and guided it to its completion. I hope all that read this book will never forget you, as I know I won’t.

Note: If you follow the method put forth in this book, you are a member of INBTI. We do not ask for dues, but consider you one of us.

Table of Contents

Part One: THE PRINCIPLES: Learning the Basics

Chapter 1 What is Mantrailing?

Chapter 2 Choosing the Breed

Chapter 3 The Harness

Chapter 4 The Lead and Lead Control

Chapter 5 The Reward

Chapter 6 The Targeting Command

Chapter 7 The Pre-Starting Ritual

Chapter 8 The Scenting/Starting Commands

Chapter 9 The Foundation

Part Two: Your Arsenal of Exercises to Build a Solid Foundation

Chapter 10 The Intensity Trail

Chapter 11 The Primary Actors

Chapter 12 Praising

Chapter 13 The Delayed Start Intensity Trail

Chapter 14 Scent Article Intensity

Chapter 15 Extended Intensity Trails

Chapter 16 The Flip

Chapter 17 Other Intensity Building Tools

Part Three: Reading Your Dog & Learning the Dance

The No Forward Scent Indication & Exercise

How Dogs Work a Trail

The Beginning Circle

The Trail Circle

The Classic Cutback

The Flowing Negative

The Head Turn

Putting it all Together Diagram

Part Four: Scent Articles and The Identification

Chapter 18 The Scent Article

Chapter 19 Scent Article Collection

Chapter 20 Scent Article Transfers

Chapter 21 Reading a Bad Scent Article or Failed Transfer

Chapter 22 The Scent Article Start

Chapter 23 The Identification (ID)

The ID for The Patrol Dog

Part Five: Continuing the Fundamentals

Chapter 24 Dog Training TKM

Chapter 25 Teaching the Rules

Chapter 26 Positive Trail Reinforcements

Chapter 27 The Walk Back

Chapter 28 Learning How to Cast

Chapter 29 Covered Trails

Chapter 30 Scent Pools

Chapter 31 Barriers and Obstructions

Chapter 32 Cross and Split Trails

Chapter 33 Are You Ready for Advanced Training?

Part Six: Component TrainingTKM

Chapter 34 The Rationale of Component Training

Chapter 35 Laying Out Trails

Chapter 36 The Pre-Scent

Chapter 37 The No Scent Identification (NSI)TKM

Chapter 38 Same-Scent Contamination

Chapter 39 Contaminated Scent Article Exercises

Chapter 40 Casting – Understanding the Information

Chapter 41 Casting for the Second Scent on an Article

Chapter 42 Starting on a Known Path of Flight

Chapter 43 General Area Starts

Chapter 44 Casting for a Trail

Chapter 45 Recovery Casting

Chapter 46 Casting for a Trail at an Intersection

Chapter 47 Door Identifications

Chapter 48 Multiple Buildings

Chapter 49 Subdivision Training

Chapter 50 The Backtrack

Chapter 51 High Finds

Chapter 52 The Car Seat Start

Chapter 53 Missing Person Starts from Vehicles

Chapter 54 Walking Identification

Chapter 55 Team TrainingTKM

Chapter 56 The Pep Talk

Chapter 57 Vehicle Pick Up Identification

Chapter 58 The Drowning

Chapter 59 Cadaver in Tree Exercise

Chapter 60 Scenting from a Person or Corpse

Chapter 61 Cold Trail Starts

Chapter 62 Night Training

Chapter 63 Missing Person Starts from Buildings

Chapter 64 Heavy Contamination Starts

Chapter 65 Fence Identification Training

Chapter 66 Stream Crossings

Chapter 67 Trailing in Unison with Patrol Dogs

Chapter 68 The Hidden Trail Layer

Chapter 69 Forest Training

Chapter 70 Transforming a Patrol Dog

Chapter 71 Vehicle Trails

Chapter 72 Combined Vehicle Pick-up and Car Trail Exercise

Chapter 73 Identification of Get Away Car

Part Seven: Dog Scent Lineups

Lineup Case Law

Chapter 74 Training for Lineups

Part Eight: It’s Yours Now

Chapter 75 Honesty & Credibility

Chapter 76 29 American Jurisprudence 2d #575

Sample Training Log

Chapter 77 Final Thoughts

Introduction

The Original Misconception: It takes many years to understand and read your dog while it tracks or trails a human.

In the past, it was commonplace for dog handlers and instructors to make that statement. In our first booklet, Read Any Trailing or Tracking Dog by Understanding Negative Indications (1999), we empowered countless handlers with the ability to identify when a dog is following a trail. The article, which is included in this book, quickly gave handlers the ability to read a working dog. Professionally trained narcotic or other detector dogs are taught to give uniform indications when locating a targeted scent. Those indications enable the handler to form an opinion regarding the dog’s actions. One of the problems with trailing or tracking dogs is uniformity. The inconsistency between different dogs limits what instructors can uniformly teach handlers. Using the method of training presented in this book will produce the uniformity that has been missing. Prior to the Kocher’s method of training, some dogs reacted differently when faced with similar circumstances. This resulted in handlers not being able to understand or interpret their dog’s reactions. Because an opinion could not be formed, no useful information came from the dog’s trail or track.

Just as our previous publication presented a simple explanation of a dog’s movements on trail, The Kocher Method will provide a simple explanation of a proven training technique – there is nothing remotely complex about it. Some of this process is a duplication of knowledge you can receive from any respectable instructor. The bulk remains uniquely ours; conceived, developed and passed on for all to learn.

I’ve trained many handlers that have gone on to be instructors themselves. Some pass on what was taught to them, others forget. Many choose not to share, for knowledge is power. Some promote themselves, never acknowledging who showed them the way. Others trickle out information to ensure your return to them.

Always remember when you harness up your dog, the search is for information that will ultimately lead to the apprehension of the subject or the recovery of the missing person. It is not about going from point A to point B, but about understanding the behavior of your dog and what he is trying to tell you. This book offers you the tools and philosophy needed to train and maintain a top dog.

What you do with these tools is up to you!

The Future - Arabelle Kocher Third Generation Bloodhound Handler

PART ONE

THE PRINCIPLES Learning the Basics

With one of my many classes

Robin in Texas

Kocher Method Milestones

• The book in many languages

Completed: German, Russian, Italian, Spanish Still being translated: Portuguese, French and Hungarian

• Law in South Dakota

INBTI is the exclusive certifying agency for the state of South Dakota’s scent discriminatory canine teams! 6.21.2012

• INBTI Receives Government Funding for a Seminar

INBTI member receives funding from the Baltic-American Freedom Foundation for an INBTI training seminar in Latvia!

Maria Vladimirova (pictured above right) from Riga, Latvia was instrumental in procuring the funding from the Foundation

Kevin and Robin pause for a picture with the other instructors at a seminar out West In memory of James (Jim) Shaffer 1946-2012

Instructor David Daniels and his wife Sue Daniels

Chapter 1

What is Mantrailing?

Simply put, mantrailing is the act of a dog following the scent of a human. What differentiates a trailing dog from a tracking dog is that the trailing dog is allowed to follow the human scent naturally, rather than being trained in a head down or tracking position. In other words, the dog is taught to follow the scent, but is allowed to do it instinctively rather than mechanically. This approach allows the trailing dog to reliably function in a greater range of terrains, including urban settings that consist totally of asphalt and concrete surfaces.

Both types of dogs can scent discriminate, which means they can follow a specific person over (and through) the scent trails of other people. But the trailing dog is taught to acquire this skill from its very first training stages; tracking dogs have to acquire this ability through experience. Because of this approach, there are some patrol/tracking dogs that can scent discriminate and others that never fully acquire the skill. The final major distinction between tracking and trailing dogs is the ability to independently establish a direction of travel. For example, a tracking dog must be placed on or near the footsteps of the person to be followed, facing the correct direction of travel.

The trailing dog after being presented with the targeted scent, can establish the direction of travel on its own. The dog learns to look for the trails because it is rarely placed in front of them. Our method of training produces a dog that will quickly establish that direction.

Two natural instincts of a dog are:

1.  To follow the trails of other animals.

2.  To follow a fresh scent trail.

To overcome these natural instincts, which become a hindrance on the start or trail, we will use intensity exercises which are unique to The Kocher Method.

We teach our dogs:

1.  To accurately and consistently follow a specific human.

2.  To only follow a scent, not search for it!

3.  To tell us if the targeted scent is not in the area!

4.  That this is the best game around!

Let us help you create a patrol dog that can work hard surface with ease!

Note: Throughout this book you will find certain terms or phrases with the symbol TKM next to them. This is used to indicate a concept that is uniquely ours and originally taught through THE KOCHER METHOD.

Chapter 2

Choosing the Breed

Many different types of dogs can be used for mantrailing. No breed or individual dog, by virtue of its lineage, is automatically a great trailing dog. The bloodhound’s attributes make it a proficient dog for the task. However, within the breed itself you will find many dogs that will never develop into a good mantrailer.

This contradicts the testimony given in People of Illinois v. Pfanschmidt. {104 North Eastern Reporter 804} In that case, the handler testified …bloodhounds have a natural instinct for nothing but human scent, but must be trained to follow the scent of a horse or other animal; that the scent of a bloodhound to trail animals must be developed.

That statement is far from the truth. Bloodhounds have no natural instinct to trail humans. Like any other breed of dog, their instinct is to follow other animals.

I have always handled bloodhounds. I consider them the most easily trained and best tool for the job. Beyond their instinctive desire to follow things of interest, they do not have an overbearing prey drive when confronted with animal scent while working. This separates them from the other large hound breeds, which are much more difficult to break. That being said, I have also washed bloodhounds out of the training program. Most of those were kicked out for being too skittish. Because the dogs were not exposed to many things at a very young age, they become too fearful to reliably work in common everyday situations. It is best to get your hound very young and thoroughly socialize him to all environments and a wide variety of people. Trying to rescue an older hound for use in mantrailing is a risky proposition. You never know what you are starting with and may have considerable time invested before realizing the dog is not going to make it as a mantrailer. I have worked some top hounds that were dog aggressive and would not consider that a problem, but would immediately wash out any hound that displays fear aggression toward any human being.

Arabelle Kocher’s first mantrailer, Dixie, A Bavarian Mountain Hound

Picking the right breeder is another matter. I have never handled a bloodhound from a show line, but most I have seen would never succeed in mantrailing. They are bred to be well over 100 pounds and do not display the hunt drive we look for. The bloodhounds that are bred smaller - in the 70 to 80 pound range - with tighter skin and twice the drive or energy, are better suited for mantrailing.

Once I obtain puppies, I imprint them by letting them follow along while my older dogs work a trail. Dogs are pack animals and instinctively look to the older pack members for guidance and knowledge. The pups learn their purpose in life from the older dogs, but still need to learn the intricacies of the game.

I have seen many other breeds, such as the German Shepherd, Labrador Retriever and Chesapeake Bay Retriever that were excellent working dogs and up to the task. Stay away from the breeds that hunt by sight instinctively (such as the Greyhound) or the toy and small breeds like the Pug or Rat Terrier.

Choose your breed, but be willing to move on from an individual dog if it does not perform. You will end up wasting time with one that might be okay, but will never be a top performer.

You choose…

Chapter 3

The Harness

The harness is an equipment cue that communicates to the dog it is time to work. That communication becomes important as you start introducing the rules of the game. Just prior to starting an exercise, place the dog in harness. Harnessing the dog should be smooth and quick. This takes some forethought and preparation by the handler before initiating the process.

1.  The handler should have the leash untangled and ready to attach to the harness.

2.  The scent article should be ready to present to the dog.

Making dogs perform an obedience command like sit while being harnessed appears to lower their drive. When you utilize our method, the dog learns to stand still without taking away from its starting intensity.

While you place the harness on the dog, verbally communicate to the dog the pleasurable experience that is about to occur. Straddling the dog and placing your legs between the dog’s hips and rib cage will assure prompt and correct placement of the harness. By doing this, your legs are now holding the dog in position. This method allows the use of both of your hands to strap the harness on the dog and present the scent article. As the dog becomes accustomed to this method, it will stand perfectly still without the added pressure of your legs against the midsection.

Author standing in the harnessing position

As you present the scent article while commanding the dog to find em, maintain the harnessing position, so it becomes accustomed to waiting for the second command to get em before moving.

The harness is immediately removed once the exercise is completed. Remember to remove it while celebrating the dog’s success when it finishes its trail. You can then allow the dog to enjoy the walk back, exploring the interesting scents it correctly ignored while working.

Some older dogs respond negatively to wearing a harness. Their animation will noticeably drop while it is being placed on them. This normally indicates that at some point the dog’s handler became frustrated and used too much or too strong of a correction. The dog now associates the harness to those corrections. In order to overcome this reaction, the dogs have to be transitioned back into the harness one component at a time. Have your trail layers run intensity trails for the dog. Position yourself over the dog the same way you would if you were putting on the harness. Perform the same hand motions as if you were harnessing the dog, along with the normal verbal cues, but then run the dog on its collar. Once the dog is reacting positively to the intensity trails without the harness, you can start using it again. This can normally be accomplished in 5 or 6 exercises or trails.

Harnessing the Shepherd

Pictured: Instructor Nick Ridings

A dog that works out of love and loyalty is a dependable dog. -Robin Monroe Kocher

Chapter 4

The Lead and Lead Control

To become one of the best dog handlers in the country, be prepared to work behind the scenes. Eventually, the majority of your cases will be homicide and other major crime investigations. You should prefer not to hear any details about the investigations before working your dog. If you have to work a case that you have prior information about, try to allow the lead to go completely slack at all crucial points or turns. As the lead slackens, ensure the detectives or police officers with you see it so they can also testify that no directional influence was given to the dog. Once the dog has determined the direction he wants to take, passively allow the dog to re-tighten the lead. With success comes a certain amount of fame, so always remain a humble, quiet professional that is willing to work without any notoriety.

The length of the lead that is hooked to the harness needs to be long enough to allow the dog to follow the scent with minimal hindrance. If it is too short the dog will not be able to naturally follow the scent; too long and you will be too busy trying to stay untangled to watch and read your dog. We prefer our leads to be in the twenty-foot range. This length gives the dog the freedom work the scent, while giving us the manageability we need.

Lead tension and control are very important factors in communicating with your dog. There is no clear right or wrong way to handle a lead. Repetition will produce the natural technique of a seasoned handler.

Roll the leash up in one hand when a shorter length is required, such as near a road, or in thick brush.

You will need to continually reel the lead in and out as the dog’s movements dictate. If the dog requires less lead, loop it in one hand like winding up an extension cord while shortening the lead length. As the dog requires more lead length just roll your wrist to let more out. Always keep control of the exercise by not letting the lead slack to the point in which the dog and handler are continuously getting tangled. Give enough lead length for the dog to work naturally as it eliminates directions of travel.

While training, it is very important NOT to use the lead to influence the dog while he is working. The purpose of the exercise is for the dog to follow the scent without you helping. If you use the lead to slow down or give directional influence to the dog at critical points in the trail, the dog is going to learn to read your lead control rather than relying strictly on its scenting abilities. The more you influence, the less the dog learns. It is better to allow the dog to begin to fail with no influence, and then correct the dog at that moment of failure, rather than use the lead to influence the dog to win or make the correct decisions. That is how he'll learn!

Controlling and communicating with your dog through the lead is part of handling a dog. It is what separates a dog handler from a lead holder. You are the handler, which means the alpha member (the one in charge) of the team. Always be firm, but never a bully, and you will get good work from your dog.

Don’t influence by staying behind your dog!

Some fast moving dogs will need a firm, tight leash to slow their pace to a controllable working speed. The dog will learn to adjust to the handler’s pace as the team matures. Experience has shown some uncontrolled dogs have a tendency to freight train, which means the dog loses its focus and moves forward just for the joy of running. Slowing the pace of the dog should not be done as a correction, but as a passive influence during the dog’s speed adjustment period. Adjust your lead tension to the dog – some will require a gentle touch. The leash is part of the communication between the handler and dog.

Always try to stay positioned right behind the dog or you may end up with a dog that can read you better than you can read him. For example, if you always walk off to the side that the trail leads, the dog will learn to read your position as a directional influence.

Slovenian Instructor Maja Golob being careful not to influence her dog

Sometimes corrections will need to be given using the lead as part of the corrective action. These will be needed with dogs that are so enthralled by a distraction that they are not responding to