Mount Shasta: A Guide to Climbing, Skiing, and Exploring California's Premier Mountain
By Andy Selters and Michael Zanger
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Mount Shasta - Andy Selters
Mount Shasta
1st EDITION 1989
2nd EDITION 2001
3rd EDITION 2006
4th EDITION 2017
Copyright © 1989, 2001, 2006, 2017 by Andy Selters and Michael Zanger
Front cover photos copyright © 2017 by Andy Selters and Michael Zanger; back cover photo copyright © 2017 Chris Carr/Shasta Mountain Guides
All interior photographs by the authors, except where otherwise credited
Cover and book design: Lora Westberg
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Selters, Andrew, author. | Zanger, Michael, 1941- author.
Title: Mount Shasta : a guide to climbing, skiing, and exploring California’s premier mountain / Andy Selters, Michael Zanger.
Other titles: Mount Shasta book
Description: Fourth Edition. | Birmingham, Alabama : Wilderness Press, [2017] | Distributed by Publishers Group West
—T.p. verso. | 3rd EDITION 2006
—T.p. verso. | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017023346 | ISBN 9780899978666 (paperback) | ISBN 9780899978673 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Hiking—California—Shasta, Mount (Mountain)—Guidebooks. | Mountaineering—California—Shasta, Mount (Mountain)—Guidebooks. | Skis and skiing—California—Shasta, Mount (Mountain)—Guidebooks. | Shasta, Mount (Calif. : Mountain)—Guidebooks.
Classification: LCC GV199.42.C22 S487 2017 | DDC 796.5109794/21—dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017023346
Manufactured in the United States of America
Published by: Wilderness Press
An imprint of AdventureKEEN
2204 First Ave. S, Ste. 102
Birmingham, AL 35233
800-443-7227; FAX 205-326-1012
Visit wildernesspress.com for a complete listing of our books and for ordering information. Contact us at our website, at facebook.com/wildernesspress1967, or at twitter.com/wilderness1967 with questions or comments. To find out more about who we are and what we’re doing, visit blog.wildernesspress.com.
Distributed by Publishers Group West
Frontispiece: Heart Lake
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.
SAFETY NOTICE: Though Wilderness Press and the authors have made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur to anyone while using this book. You are responsible for your own safety and health while in the wilderness. The fact that a route is described in this book does not mean that it will be safe for you. Be aware that trail conditions can change from day to day. Always check local conditions and know your own limitations.
Mount Shasta reflected in Heart Lake
Olberman’s Causeway
A golden-mantled squirrel
Crevasse rescue practice on Route 11: Hotlum Glacier
A climber stepping across a crevasse on Bolam Glacier
Climbing a serac on Variation 11c: Hotlum Icefalls
Climbers on the north side of Mount Shasta
Skiing near Castle Lake
Climbing Variation 1b: Red Banks Chimneys
Sunrise on Mount Shasta
South Gate Meadows
Mount Shasta (left) and Shastina (right) from the north
Shasta’s south side
Ash Creek Falls
A Shasta red fir forest near North Gate
Descending Route 1: John Muir (Avalanche Gulch)
Climbing Route 5: Casaval Ridge
A Shasta lily
Lenticular clouds above Mount Shasta
Skiing down Route 10: Hotlum–Bolam Ridge
Climbing Route 11: Hotlum Glacier
Sunset at the Bolam Glacier camping area
Casaval Ridge
Clark’s nutcracker
Approaching the summit of Mount Shasta circa 1985
Mount Shasta from the south, with Sargents Ridge (right) and Green Butte Ridge, Avalanche Gulch, Casaval Ridge, and Shastina (left)
Mount Shasta from the south-southwest, looking at Avalanche Gulch
Whitney Glacier
Whitney Glacier (right), the Whitney–Bolam Ridge, and the West Bolam Glacier (left)
Mount Shasta from the north-northwest, with the Whitney–Bolam Ridge (right), the Bolam Glacier, and the Hotlum–Bolam Ridge (left)
Mount Shasta from the north, with the Hotlum Glacier (center), the Hotlum–Wintun Ridge, and Wintun Glacier (left) xiv
Mount Shasta from the east, with the Hotlum–Wintun Ridge (right) and Wintun Glacier (center)
Mount Shasta from the southeast, with the Wintun Glacier (right), the Clear Creek Route (center), and the Konwakiton Glacier (left)
Contents
Trips by Type & Area
List of Aerial Photos
Mt. Shasta Locator Map
Acknowledgments
Introduction
A Primer to Climbing Mount Shasta
Weather
Climbing Routes
Area: Southwest Side of Mount Shasta from Sargents Ridge to Cascade Gulch
Area: Shastina to the Hotlum–Bolam Ridge
Area: North and Northeast Sides: Hotlum and Wintun Glaciers
Area: East and Southeast Sides: Clear Creek, Mud Creek Canyon, and Konwakiton Glacier
Skiing, Snowboarding, and Ski Touring
Hiking and Climber Access
Shasta’s Geology
Shasta’s Flora and Fauna
Amenities, Contacts, and Other Information
Afterword
About the Authors
Re Creation Map Mt. Shasta Wilderness
Mount Shasta Wilderness
Trips by Type & Area
Climbing Routes
Area: Southwest Side of Mount Shasta from Sargents Ridge to Cascade Gulch
Route 1: John Muir (Avalanche Gulch)
Route 2: Old Ski Bowl
Route 3: Sargents Ridge
Route 4: Green Butte Ridge
Route 5: Casaval Ridge
Route 6: Cascade Gulch
Area: Shastina to the Hotlum–Bolam Ridge
Route 7: Whitney Glacier
Route 8: West Bolam Glacier
Route 9: East Bolam Glacier
Route 10: Hotlum–Bolam Ridge
Area: North and Northeast Sides: Hotlum and Wintun Glaciers
Route 11: Hotlum Glacier
Route 12: Hotlum–Wintun Ridge
Route 13: Wintun Glacier
Route 14: Wintun Ridge
Area: East and Southeast Sides: Clear Creek, Mud Creek Canyon, and Konwakiton Glacier
Route 15: Clear Creek
Route 16: Konwakiton Glacier from the East
Route 17: Konwakiton Glacier from the South
Skiing, Snowboarding, and Ski Touring
Route 1: John Muir (Avalanche Gulch)
Route 2: Old Ski Bowl
Route 4: Green Butte Ridge
Route 6: Cascade Gulch
Route 7: Whitney Glacier
Route 8: Bolam Glacier from the Northwest
Route 9: Bolam Glacier from the Northeast
Route 10: Hotlum–Bolam Ridge
Route 11: Hotlum Glacier
Route 12: Hotlum–Wintun Ridge
Route 13: Wintun Glacier
Route 14: Wintun Ridge
Route 15: Clear Creek
Unplowed Everitt Highway, Bunny Flat to Old Ski Bowl
Old Ski Bowl
Tour to South Gate Meadows
Panther Meadow
Wagon Camp
Gray Butte Northwest Face
Powder Bowl and Sun Bowl
Broadway
Bunny Flat Area
Horse Camp Area and Beyond
Horse Camp to McBride Springs
Sand Flat Area
Red Fir Flat
Ski-In Base Camps: Wilderness Skiing
Lift-Serviced and Commercial Ski Areas
The Eddys, Castle Lake, and Beyond
Mount Shasta Ski Circumnavigation
Hikes on Shasta
Trip 1: Horse Camp Trail
Trip 2: South Gate Meadows Trail
Trip 3: Clear Creek Trail
Trip 4: Brewer Creek Trail
Trip 5: Ash Creek Falls Cross-Country Hike
Trip 6: North Gate
Trip 7: Whitney Falls
Trip 8: Circum-Shasta Backpack
List of Aerial Photos
Shasta South
Avalanche Gulch