Tin Fish Gourmet: Gourmet Seafood from Cupboard to Table
By Barbara-jo McIntosh and Michel Roux
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Tin Fish Gourmet - Barbara-jo McIntosh
Anchovies
This misunderstood morsel deserves so much more credit than it gets. Although many gourmets consider the anchovy to be an essential ingredient in a true Caesar salad, some people are a little intimidated by the salty little fish. (Hence cries of Hold the anchovies!
are often heard when a large group decides to order pizza.) But in countries all over the world, the anchovy is highly respected.
In North America, small herring-like fish such as sprats, pilchards, and alewives are often used in place of true anchovies. The real anchovy, however, is only about 3 in (7 cm) long and is found in abundance in the Mediterranean as well as off the warm shores of California and Peru. Because the anchovy’s tender white flesh deteriorates quickly when exposed to air, many people have never actually tasted the fish served fresh. The anchovy must be heavily salted in order to be preserved, and it is often packed in oil. This can create a problem for those on a sodium-restricted diet, those with gout or high blood pressure, or those watching their cholesterol.
But they need not avoid anchovies altogether. A good way to reduce their saltiness and oiliness is by soaking them in white wine or milk prior to using them in a recipe. Anchovies contain niacin and omega-3 monounsaturated fats as well as healthy quantities of iron and vitamin B 12. Used sparingly, anchovies can yield magnificent