Handbook of Shoe Factory Engineering
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Handbook of Shoe Factory Engineering - United Shoe Machinery Co.
HANDBOOK
OF
SHOE FACTORY
ENGINEERING
A History of Shoemaking
Shoemaking, at its simplest, is the process of making footwear. Whilst the art has now been largely superseded by mass-volume industrial production, for most of history, making shoes was an individual, artisanal affair. 'Shoemakers' or 'cordwainers' (cobblers being those who repair shoes) produce a range of footwear items, including shoes, boots, sandals, clogs and moccasins – from a vast array of materials.
When people started wearing shoes, there were only three main types: open sandals, covered sandals and clog-like footwear. The most basic foot protection, used since ancient times in the Mediterranean area, was the sandal, which consisted of a protective sole, attached to the foot with leather thongs. Similar footwear worn in the Far East was made from plaited grass or palm fronds. In climates that required a full foot covering, a single piece of untanned hide was laced with a thong, providing full protection for the foot, thus forming a complete covering. These were the main two types of footwear, produced all over the globe. The production of wooden shoes was mainly limited to medieval Europe however – made from a single piece of wood, roughly shaped to fit the foot.
A variant of this early European shoe was the clog, which were wooden soles to which a leather upper was attached. The sole and heel were generally made from one piece of maple or ash two inches thick, and a little longer and broader than the desired size of shoe. The outer side of the sole and heel was fashioned with a long chisel-edged implement, called the clogger’s knife or stock; while a second implement, called the groover, made a groove around the side of the sole. With the use of a 'hollower', the inner sole's contours were adapted to the shape of the foot. In even colder climates, such designs were adapted with furs wrapped around the feet, and then sandals wrapped over them. The Romans used such footwear to great effect whilst fighting