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    Let's Go Europe 2015: The Student Travel Guide
    Let's Go Europe 2015: The Student Travel Guide
    Let's Go Europe 2015: The Student Travel Guide
    Ebook2,190 pages37 hours

    Let's Go Europe 2015: The Student Travel Guide

    By Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.

    4.5/5

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    About this ebook

    From Portugal to Hungary, from Great Britain down to Greece, Europe is a lot to take on. Luckily, the student adventurers behind Let’s Go Europe 2015 think you can handle itwith a little help. Whether you’re whipping through London, Barcelona, and Prague in five days or spending a leisurely year abroad, you’ll get all the info you need from us. Our wit and irreverence can brighten even the drabbest Renaissance museumif you didn’t take our advice to skip it. From German beer halls to Roman ruins, Let's Go Europe 2015 is your ticket to adventure.

    Let's Go publishes the world's favorite student travel guides, written entirely by Harvard undergraduates. Armed with pens, notebooks, and a few changes of underwear stuffed in their backpacks, our student researchers go across continents, through time zones, and above expectations to seek out invaluable travel experiences for our readers. Let's Go has been on the road for 55 years and counting: We're on a mission to provide our readers with sharp, fresh coverage packed with socially responsible opportunities to go beyond tourism.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherLet's Go
    Release dateJun 15, 2015
    ISBN9781612370460
    Let's Go Europe 2015: The Student Travel Guide

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    • 4/5
      Flicking through my old "Let's Go Europe 1998" (used for a trip to Europe over the 1998/99 northern hemisphere winter), obviously rings back many memories; walks through Vienna's old town as snowflakes fluttered down, mountains so high my Australian brain just couldn't contend with them, the fact I was absolutely FREEZING the entire time and that I seemed to spend a goodly amount of time running around tourist attractions desperately looking for a public toilet.I'm probably looking at this through rose coloured glasses, but I seem to recall my main complaint about "Let's Go Europe: 1998" was that they would give directions by points of the compass, which wasn't much use when you didn't have a compass; I lost count of the times I would read "go due west for a kilometre until you see the cheap hotel/local tourist site/bar selling cheap booze", have a wild guess at which direction west was and then lugged my incredibly heavy backpack a km or so until I realised that I must have picked the wrong direction.
    • 5/5
      EASILY the best guidebook I've ever had. Is anything wrong with it? Well, it's a bit too into recommending dreary fucking techno bars - there are better places to drink, dance, AND pick up in this world than at 230 BM+PM with Carl Cox whinnying in your ear and some chavvy Yorkshireman spilling his pint of piss down yer back - but I know, I know, give the people what they want. And the history and context is lacking - obvs you need to go beyond your guide for that, but it'd be nice if they found a way to fit in a history/culture page on each country. Not that you can begrudge 'em much, because this book is a miracle of great information and form meeting function. Everything they suggested was awesome, possibly because not as many people read LG as Lonely Planet and so they're not effectively ruining a place by suggesting it to you. Always vegetarian options. An ingenious system of icons that represents absolute cheapness as well as relative value, and they aren't shy with suggesting things and making value judgments on one attraction or activity or hotel over another, unlike a lot of these guys who try to pay it cagey (for the ad dollars? Surely to fuck not). The travel and orientation information is simple, accurate, and doesn't assume you speak the language, which is fucking necessary. Best of all, the maps are accurate, easy to use, and don't contain any extraneous crap. And the book is cheap and printed on newsprint, so you don't feel bad slashing sections out of it and leaving the bulk behind. This book actually works in the line of a troubleshooting tool, and made my vacation better. Wouldn't it be nice if all guidebooks could boast the same?

    Book preview

    Let's Go Europe 2015 - Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.

    For Haley Rue—

    From running up hills in Budapest, to falling in love with Vienna, to finding inspiration in Innsbruck, you touched us all with your openness, your insights, and above all your friendship. You are, quite simply, the best. We miss you. This book is for you.

    With love from the Let’s Go family

    Whenever someone asks me what I would like to do with my life, I come up with a list of lucrative careers, but I always end my response with ‘but really, I’d just love to travel the world, experience things, and write about it.’

    —Haley Rue

    CONTENTS

    DISCOVER

    when to go

    what to do

    suggested itineraries

    how to use this book

    AUSTRIA

    vienna

    salzburg

    austria essentials

    BELGIUM

    brussels

    bruges

    belgium essentials

    CZECH REPUBLIC

    prague

    czech republic essentials

    FRANCE

    paris

    nice

    cannes

    cassis

    lyon

    bordeaux

    biarritz

    france essentials

    GERMANY

    berlin

    cologne

    hamburg

    frankfurt

    munich

    germany essentials

    GREAT BRITAIN

    london

    oxford

    cambridge

    stonehenge

    edinburgh

    york

    manchester

    liverpool

    great britain essentials

    GREECE

    athens

    volos

    thessaloniki

    greece essentials

    HUNGARY

    budapest

    gy r

    hungary essentials

    IRELAND

    dublin

    belfast

    galway

    kilkenny

    ireland essentials

    ITALY

    rome

    milan

    venice

    padua

    verona

    bologna

    ravenna

    rimini

    florence

    pisa

    lucca

    perugia

    assisi

    pompeii

    palermo

    syracuse

    italy essentials

    THE NETHERLANDS

    amsterdam

    the netherlands essentials

    PORTUGAL

    lisbon

    coimbra

    sintra

    portugal essentials

    SPAIN

    madrid

    barcelona

    toledo

    valencia

    sevilla

    ibiza

    santiago de compostela

    spain essentials

    TURKEY

    istanbul

    edirne

    turkey essentials

    ESSENTIALS

    planning your trip

    money

    getting around

    safety and health

    keeping in touch

    climate

    measurements

    phrasebook

    INDEX

    QUICK REFERENCE

    RESEARCHER-WRITERS

    MEG BERNHARD: A sophomore from Temecula, a small city in Southern California whose name means sun shines through the mist, Meg bus-hopped coast to coast on the Iberian Peninsula this summer. Living like the Madrileños (even when she was in Portugal), Meg climbed Moorish fortresses, ate a lot of ham, and even walked 20km across Ibiza.

    SERENA BOOTH: Serena made Germany her home—even bringing along a bread pot to do some cooking while she penned notes on Berlin’s many museums. Wielding a mighty sword of opinion, she put German culture to the test: judging by her high marks for schnitzel, opera, and most palaces, we’re sure it passed with flying colors.

    KEVIN FRIEL: Hailing from the sunny shores of southern California, Kevin brought his laid-back vibe to Amsterdam. On bikes, gondolas, and sheer determination, he powered through endless cheese sandwiches and daunting Dutch spelling while still saving time to grow a luscious Euro-beard. Thankfully, despite his nearby accommodation, Kevin resisted the red lights and committed himself to kick-butt copy.

    DAN FULOP: Dan is a daring traveler from New York who made his first trip overseas right out of the womb. Although Dan was raised in Westchester suburbia, he took every opportunity he could to venture into the outdoors. While making his way from the Dolomites to the Matterhorn this summer, outdoor enthusiast met urban explorer during a thrilling journey characterized by a healthy combination of hiking the Bernese Oberland, imbibing with locals, and sampling regional delicacies in a gourmand’s heaven.

    ZEB GOODMAN: Zeb spent the better part of two months wandering around the southern coast of France, offending locals everywhere with his American accent and claiming he was Canadian in an poor attempt to avoid propagating American stereotypes. In the name of research and journalism, Zeb train-hopped and hitchhiked his way to every beach and vineyard from Nice to Biarritz, narrowly escaping homelessness and all the while reassuring his editors and parents that he was visiting museums and living a healthy lifestyle.

    CHRISTINE ANN HURD: A beloved Let’s Go veteran, Christine returned to Europe for a second summer of travel writing, taking her wit and droll humor to Great Britain, the country that invented them. After researching Austria and Hungary in 2012, Christine traded palinka for Pimm’s and wiener schnitzel for fish ‘n’ chips in the UK. In between visits to hostels and museums, Christine also found time to stalk Benedict Cumberbatch and pay requisite visits to 221B Baker St. and the BBC Headquarters.

    ANGIE JO: Angie took her passion and poetry to the Golden Horn, enveloping herself in the history, culture, and hospitality of Istanbul. In the midst of skirting protests in Taksim Square and eating plenty of pide, Angie befriended a wizard on the way to Çanakkale, spent time in quiet reflection at soldiers’ graves in Gallipoli, and watched some slicked-down Turkish men compete at Edirne’s Oil Wrestling Festival.

    PETEY MENZ: Petey traveled through Ireland, England, and Scotland, and managed to stay dry pretty much the entire time. He saw natural beauties like the Cliffs of Moher and Loch Ness, world class institutions like the Ulster Museum and York Minster, and an astonishing number of neighborhood pubs. His boots were ruined by the end of the trip.

    LYNN MIAO: In eight short weeks, Lynn championed the behemoth that is Paris. A fast master of the Vélib’ system, she biked her way up many a hill and across the city’s 20 arrondissements, scouting out new establishments at every turn. After climbing the steps of Montmartre, storming the streets of the city on Bastille Day, and trekking out to Chartres and Versailles, Lynn spent the last days of her route relaxing in Lyon with a big bottle of well-deserved wine.

    RODRIGO ANDRÉS MURILLO: From the raging streets of El Raval to the stunning mosaics of Park Guell, Andrés discovered both the unparalleled beauty and the unsettling underbelly of Barcelona. Taking aggressive prostitutes and lost wallets in stride, he immersed himself thoroughly in Spanish culture, churned out an epic amount of copy, and even managed to squeeze in some babysitting on the side.

    ANNA PAPP: Undeterred by inclement weather, Anna attacked her route, which took her from Prague to Munich, with enough enthusiasm to power a small rocket ship—though who wouldn’t do the same with all that delicious beer? Tapping her European roots, Anna settled into the local life of the Czech Republic while expertly reporting on famous defenestrations, babies scaling TV towers, and the majesty of cabbage soup.

    WESLEY RIVERA: Wesley traversed northern Spain, from Salvador Dalí’s home in the eastern tip of the Iberian peninsula to Galicia, the westernmost Spanish region once considered to be the end of the earth. Along the way he savored all the tapas and sangria that Spain has to offer and was awestruck by beautiful Spanish castles and cathedrals. His favorite memories include hiking through mountains along the border of France, living with a DJ in Barcelona, witnessing the running of the bulls, and watching the locals of Blanes catch an octopus with their bare hands.

    HALEY RUE: A native of Washington state, Haley took her love of mountains and indie-rock to the Alps of Austria and the hipsters of Hungary. As she made her way across Central Europe, Haley crowd-surfed in Budapest, charmed Mozart men in Vienna, wandered and pondered in Graz and Innsbruck, and drank plenty of coffee all the while. With her goofy spirit, unbridled openness, and adorable dimples, she made friends everywhere she went and ensured that her travels were anything but boring (her least favorite word).

    ULIANA SAVOSTENKO: A native of Russia and a natural globetrotter, Uliana tackled yet another language while researching in Florence, Tuscany, and northern Italy. Over eight weeks, she climbed the endless stairs of the Duomo and the Leaning Tower, grew tired of Italy’s excessive nudes, and spent her birthday relaxing at the beach, all while taking precious care of Svindel, the office gnome.

    PRIYANKA SEN: For her second summer with Let’s Go, Priyanka hopped a few islands in Greece before returning to Europe’s boot and her one true love, Italy. From the ruins of the Acropolis to the bumpin’ beats of Rimini, Priyanka’s journey around the Mediterranean featured the perfect combination of all things ancient and modern. Once again testing the limits of propriety with her sometimes risque and always hilarious reviews, Priyanka kept the office staff laughing while turning in kickass content all summer long.

    MATT SHUHAM: Hopping from Paris to Blois to Bayeaux, Matt explored all things French this summer as he made his way from the nation’s capital to the chateaus of the Loire Valley to the shores of Brittany. To cap off his route, he crossed the border into Belgium, making stops in Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp, and Ghent.

    CHRIS XU: With nothing more than a backpack and a duffel, Chris took a break from rowing the Charles River to explore Madrid and the Spanish countryside. After some crazy nights of cervesas and flamenco, Chris relished the simple life: churros for breakfast and trekking through ancient fortresses.

    DISCOVER

    EUROPE

    Everyone you know—parents, friends, and especially random old men in parks—probably has a few stories that start, When I was in Europe… For all the shenanigans that ensue, these tales might as well begin with, Once upon a time… Still, for the most part, they’re true stories. A kindly matriarch will cook you dinner and insist on setting you up with one of her children; a shop owner will convince you to buy mooncakes before you figure out what’s really in them; you’ll spend all night trying to dodge a neighborhood’s worth of stray cats who seem to think you’re their king; you’ll meet a princess disguised as a pixie-haired commoner and fall in love over Vespa rides and one hilarious prank at the Bocca della Verità. Wait, that last one was Roman Holiday—but you get the point.

    The unifying theme of this guide is adventure. Not geography, not sights, not history. Europe has been the stomping ground of students for generations, precisely because of the opportunities for escapes and escapades it provides. It has the whole gamut of architectural periods and incredible renovations, brogues and rolling r’s, and residents who drink alcohol like water. And you’re always in the good company of fellow travelers, both young and old, out on adventures like you. Give Europe a chance, think outside of the box, and you can make your trip something worth bragging about. Who knows? Maybe Roman Holiday was based on a true story.

    when to go

    Summer is the busiest time to travel in Europe. The season’s many festivals can jack up prices, but it might be worth it to catch Madrid’s bullfighting festival or London’s Proms. Late spring and early autumn bring fewer tourists and cheaper airfares—meaning they’re good times to go, if you can get the days off. Winter travel is great for those looking to hit the ski ranges around the mountains, but not the best time to take a walking tour through Prague. Plus, you’ll find that some hotels, restaurants, and sights have limited hours or are on vacation—from you.

    what to do

    FOOD FOR THOUGHT

    From French patisseries to Italian pizzerie, the sheer wealth of cuisine options across Europe could keep your palate entertained for several lifetimes. It’s a miracle that all travelers don’t return home 50lb. heavier and desperately in need of a larger pant size.

    •CIP CIAP (VENICE, ITALY). The crispy crust. Gooey, melted cheese. The smell of tomatoes and basil…we think it’s the best pizza and Venice, and we’re hungry just thinking about it.

    •EL SOBRINO DE BOTÍN (MADRID, SPAIN): If reading The Sun Also Rises made you think, Gee, I’d like to eat that suckling pig Hemingway mentioned, you’re weird. You should also go to this upscale restaurant.

    •AUGUSTINERKELLER BEERHALL AND RESTAURANT (MUNICH, GERMANY): Sausages, sauerkraut, and beer. What did you think you would eat in Munich?

    •RESTAURANT 3FC (PARIS, FRANCE): Once you’ve eaten your weight in bread, cheese, and pastries, leave France for North Africa for an irrestistible kebab from Restaurant 3FC.

    •SUR OCAKBAŞI (ISTANBUL, TURKEY): We can’t stress it enough: this will likely be the best meal you eat in Istanbul. Just breathe, dive in, and enjoy the foodgasm.

    •PIEMINISTER (LONDON, GREAT BRITAIN): You’ve likely heard not-too-great things about British food. These pies will certainly change your mind.

    THE GREAT INDOORS

    Let’s get real: you didn’t come to Europe for the trees—except the ones in the background of the Mona Lisa. Each of these museums could keep you distracted for a lifetime or four.

    •THE LOUVRE (PARIS, FRANCE): We promise it was famous before The Da Vinci Code.

    •THE BRITISH MUSEUM, THE NATIONAL GALLERY, THE TATE MODERN, AND THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM (LONDON, UK): We couldn’t pick just one—nor should you, because they’re all free!

    •UFFIZI GALLERY (FLORENCE, ITALY): Venus’s flowing locks, a swan-like depiction of Mary with Jesus, and 43 other rooms full of art are waiting for you (and thousands of other sightseers) to appreciate their magnificence.

    •MOSTEIRO DOS JERÓNIMOS (LISBON, PORTUGAL): Okay, so it’s more of a church than a museum. But it’s remained in near-perfect condition for over 500 years, so if you want to party (maybe pray is more appropriate) like it’s 1502, this is the place.

    student superlatives

    •MOST BLING: The Pope’s crib (a.k.a. Vatican City), where you’ll find the sickest frescoes and some Swiss guards in tricked out uniforms.

    •WORST MUSEUM TO VISIT WITH YOUR FAMILY (ESPECIALLY CREEPY UNCLE NICK): The Amsterdam Sex Museum.

    •BEST WAY TO GET SO FRESH AND SO CLEAN: Getting pummelled by a nearly naked hairy Turkish guy in one of Istanbul’s hamams is actually a lot more relaxing than you’d think.

    •BEST WAY TO CONTRACT EARLY-ONSET DIABETES: Cologne’s Schokoladenmuseum, where gold fountains spurt out samples of sweet, sweet, chocolate goodness.

    •DOX (PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC): If you’re in Europe for more than 10min., you’re bound to see something from (a) Antiquity or (b) the Renaissance. DOX and its constantly rotating contemporary art exhibits are a welcome and insightful reprieve.

    •VERZETSMUSEUM (AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS): Learn about World War II and its effects in the Netherlands from a different perspective at the Dutch Resistence Museum.

    •FUNDACIÓ MIRÓ (BARCELONA, SPAIN): Do you like bright colors, abstract shapes, and staring slightly puzzled to fully understand a piece of art? You’ll love Joan Miró and this collection of his works and others inspired by him.

    DON’T BE A SQUARE

    Just hang around in one. While strolling along winding avenues and exploring tiny alleyways is certainly necessary, European life shines in its open spaces: Italy’s piazze, Spain’s plazas, and even Hungary’s tere are not only beautiful to look at, but they are home to festivals, outdoor (free!) art, and even bustling nightlife. You might cut through on your way to a world-famous museum, but be sure to stop and appreciate what these outdoor spaces have to offer.

    •NIEUWMARKT (AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS): This one’s a two-for-one: see the largest medieval building in Amsterdam while gorging on fresh cheeses, breads, and other snacks.

    •MONASTIRAKI (ATHENS, GREECE): Descend from the Acropolis to discover an expanse of cheap souvlaki, street dancers, and the famous Athens flea market.

    •PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA (FLORENCE, ITALY): Disclaimer: there are a lot of piazze in Florence—and across Italy, for that matter. But this one, just outside the famed Uffizi Gallery, houses a portico of statues that rivals the museum itself.

    •WENCESLAS SQUARE (PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC): The square features a sprawling green, cobblestone streets lined with department stores, and the National Museum. But if you happen to be visiting in December, you’re in for a treat: the annual Christmas Market, which lights up the city and features holiday food, drink, and (of course) merriment.

    •HEROES’ SQUARE (BUDAPEST, HUNGARY): This enormous stone slab is a bit bizarre at first glance, but it’s home to the iconic Millennium Monument as well as two museums.

    •PLAZA MAYOR (MADRID, SPAIN): As with Italy’s piazze, Spain (and, specifically, Madrid) is full of plazas. But Plaza Mayor—the main square—is the king of them all.

    top 5 places to see dead people

    5. STEPHANSDOM AND GRABEN (VIENNA, AUSTRIA): A great view upstairs, a catacomb of plague skeletons downstairs.

    4. BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE (FLORENCE, ITALY): Italy’s best and brightest—Dante, Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, and Rossini—rest here.

    3. PANTEÃ NACIONAL (LISBON, PORTUGAL): See the tombs of Salazar’s opponents at the National Pantheon, which took over 250 years to finally be completed.

    2. WESTERKERK CHURCH (AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS): Try to find Rembrandt’s burying place—even if the sanctuary’s keepers don’t know where he’s hiding.

    1. SAINT PETER’S BASILICA (ROME, ITALY): Don’t be too creeped out by the mummified popes on display in Vatican City.

    BEYOND TOURISM

    Get off the tourist bus, put down your camera, and realize that Europe has even more to offer than priceless art and heavenly gelato. Take a class, volunteer, or get a job while abroad—you’ll still have time for museum hopping, don’t worry.

    •WWOOF, WWOOF!: No, this isn’t about dog walking. WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms) lets you channel your inner dirty hippie and work on Europe’s organic farms. Give it a try across the continent, from Portugal to the Netherlands to the Czech Republic.

    •DOGS TRUST. This one does actually involve puppies. Specifically, walking, playing with, and generally basking in the cuteness of dogs in the UK.

    •SNACKST DU INGELSCH? Don’t understand what that means? You will after an intensive German-language program.

    •TURKISH DELIGHTS. Spend time with adorable children against the backdrop of one of Istanbul’s poorer, more residential neighborhoods with Mavi Kalem.

    •MEI I HELP YOU? Marketing English in Ireland (MEI) is great for those with TEFL certification—they work with over 55 language institutions and help you find placement.

    suggested itineraries

    THE GRAND TOUR (6 weeks)

    Brace yourself. This is one serious trip, but it’s absolutely worth it. We recommend you tackle it with the help of budget airlines or a railpass.

    LONDON (4 DAYS): Load up on history, tweed, and tea. Make every attempt to serendipitously run into William, Kate, and baby George.

    AMSTERDAM (3 DAYS): Amsterdam has it all: imperial history, artistic pedigree, great music. Plus, coffeeshops and legalized prostitution! You might not want to write home to mom about this leg of the trip.

    BRUSSELS (2 DAYS): Go beyond the waffles, the chocolate, and the beer to find…a peeing statue. Well, that’s something.

    PARIS (4 DAYS): The quintessential European city will have you singing of la vie en rose in no time.

    NICE (2 DAYS): The best of the Riviera is hiding somewhere between tourist flocks.

    BARCELONA (3 DAYS): Stroll through the medieval streets of Barri Gótic in search of damsels to rescue and dragons to slay.

    LISBON (2 DAYS): Sip vinho do porto while gazing at the sunset over the Rio Tejo.

    MADRID (2 DAYS): Eat dinner at midnight, go out until dawn, and explore the city between siestas.

    ROME (4 DAYS): Get the best of the old—the Colosseum owes a lot to facelifts—and the new—bars in the Centro Storico and clubs in Testaccio—in the Eternal City.

    FLORENCE (3 DAYS): Throw yourself into the Renaissance, which seems to live on in every Florentine building.

    VENICE (2 DAYS): You don’t have to ride gondolas to enjoy the nooks and crannies of this lagoon island. They’re overpriced anyway.

    PRAGUE (3 DAYS): During the day, the Charles Bridge is overrun with tourists and vendors, but there’s nothing quite so magical at night.

    MUNICH (2 DAYS): Oktoberfest will leave you wishing for some January- through December-fests.

    BERLIN (3 DAYS): Look out for horn-rimmed glasses and cardigans among Friedrichshain’s nightclubs, which are housed in former DDR buildings.

    ATHENS (2 DAYS): By now you’ve seen much of Western Europe—now see the city where modern civilization all began.

    ISTANBUL (3 DAYS): Experience the city that has been fought over for millennia. Europe-d out? Asia is a cheap ferry ride away.

    ISLAND HOPPING

    No, you haven’t accidentally picked up a copy of Let’s Go Caribbean. While much of Europe is landlocked, there are still plenty of opportunities to be surrounded by water. And we’re not just talking the UK and Greece—the British and Greek Isles aren’t the only way to get off the mainland. You’ll be exchanging a boat ride to a palm-tree lined oasis for quick ferries and walks over bridges, but it’s still a slice of island life.

    PARIS, FRANCE: The city’s neighborhoods spiral outward from the Seine, in the middle of which are two islands: Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis. Here you’ll find one of Paris’s most famous landmarks, the Notre Dame Cathedral.

    BERLIN, GERMANY: There’s almost no way to avoid a trip to Museumsinsel (Museum Island), home of the Neue Gallery, the Berlin Dom, and—most notably—the Pergamon Museum.

    VIENNA, AUSTRIA: Go dancing on the Danube at Summer Station, an outdoor dance party every night of the week during the summer months.

    PALERMO, ITALY: Discover a whole other Italy once you ferry over to Sicily. See the influence of Byzantine, Norman, and Spanish conquests of the island as you wander through ancient churches and taste unique Sicilian flavors.

    MYKONOS, GREECE: Athens by day, island by night. Only a short ferry ride from the capital city, this island is your destination for a little Dionysian revelry.

    IBIZA, SPAIN: It almost doesn’t need mention: it’s the destination for constant partying, and a trip to Spain wouldn’t be complete without this island getaway.

    STOP AND SMELL THE ROSES

    In case you didn’t know: you’re going to spend a lot of time in Europe inside (with good reason—see The Great Indoors a few pages back). But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t get a little fresh air, since Europe is packed with as many parks and gardens as it is with museums and cathedrals.

    SEVILLA, SPAIN: You didn’t think you’d be getting a safari in Europe, did you? You can—though you’ll see forests, swamps, and dunes instead of giraffes on the savannah—at the Parque Nacional de Doñana.

    VIENNA, AUSTRIA: Roam the gardens of the Hapsburgs at the Belvedere and pretend for an afternoon that you’ll ever live in such lavish opulence.

    EDINBURGH, UK: Sometimes flowers and trees aren’t just for aesthetic beauty. Visit the Royal Botanic Gardens a scientific plant experience.

    PARIS, FRANCE: If you’re looking to see green, you’ve come to the right place. There’s certainly no shortage of grassy knolls in this city.

    PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC: The walk up to Pet in Hill won’t exactly be relaxing, but the views and sights throughout the tree-topped area is worth the hike.

    THE ULTIMATE PUB CRAWL

    Partying is as legitimate a reason to go to Europe as any other. Drinking customs say a lot about a city’s culture, and… who are we kidding? It’s fun. Don’t be ashamed!

    DUBLIN, IRELAND: Perhaps, more aptly, Publin?

    OXFORD, UK: Party with the best and brighest in this university town.

    AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS: We recommend the GLBT nightlife. Other activities are yours to choose.

    COLOGNE, GERMANY: This city has some of the best of Germany’s party scene.

    BUDAPEST, HUNGARY. Down pálinka in the city’s many ruin pubs.

    PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC: The beer is cheaper than water!

    MUNICH, GERMANY: This is the birthplace of Oktoberfest and the beer garden.

    BORDEAUX, FRANCE: We get it, too much beer. Welcome to wine country!

    ROME, ITALY. Casually sip wine on the Spanish Steps. Classic.

    BARCELONA, SPAIN: Every good night ends with a beautiful sunrise. Well done.

    how to use this book

    CHAPTERS

    Conquering the great continent of Europe is no easy task. Many have tried—from Julius Caesar to Napoleon—and all have failed. That’s why you’ve come to us. We’ve been criss-crossing the continent for 55 years, smelling out the sightliest sights and the homiest hostels, and now, dear reader, we will pass on all of our knowledge to you. Let’s get this show on the road with the travel coverage chapters—the meat of any Let’s Go book.

    We’ll start off with Austria, where you can embark on your own Alpine adventure, à la The Sound of Music. From there, we trek on over to feast on frites in Belgium, then take in the old-world magic of the Czech Republic. In France we explore fine art and finer dining, and meet Beethoven and Berliners in Germany. We cross the Channel to get our fill of Beefeaters and double-decker buses in Britain, make a pit stop at the Parthenon in Greece, and head north to Hungary’s thermal baths before returning to the Emerald Isle to drink Guinness over Joyce. We give you the lowdown on Italy’s artistic treatures, how to navigate canals in the Netherlands, and where to find Portugal’s finest port, then finish our grand tour with the sun-drenched beaches of Spain and the continent-spanning ancient wonders of Turkey.

    But that’s not all, folks. We also have a few extra chapters for you to peruse:

    BEYOND TOURISM

    As student travelers ourselves, we at Let’s Go encourage fellow globetrotters to see the world beyond the tour bus. We encourage people to try alternative forms of travel that let them engage with a community, immerse themselves a foreign culture, and get an even more enriching abroad experience. At the end of each chapter in this book, we offer suggestions for studying, volunteering, and working in a given country; we hope these suggestions let you get even more out of your trip.

    ACCOMMODATIONS

    In this book, we’ve listed our favorite hostels, hotels, B&Bs, and guest houses, along with helpful information about navigating the accommodations market, in the Get a Room! boxes in every destination. Our full list of reviews—along with our hotel and hostel booking engine powered by Hostelworld—can be found at www.letsgo.com.

    LISTINGS

    Listings—a.k.a. reviews of individual establishments—constitute a majority of Let’s Go coverage. Our Researcher-Writers list establishments in order from best to worst value—not necessarily quality. (Obviously a five-star hotel is nicer than a hostel, but it would probably be ranked lower because it’s not as good a value.) Listings pack in a lot of information, but it’s easy to digest if you know how they’re constructed:

    ESTABLISHMENT NAME

    TYPE OF ESTABLISHMENT $-$$$$

    Address

    phone number

    website

    Editorial review goes here.

    Directions to the establishment. Other practical information about the establishment, like age restrictions at a club or whether breakfast is included at a hostel. Prices for goods or services. Hours or schedules.

    ICONS

    First things first: places and things that we absolutely love, sappily cherish, generally obsess over, and wholeheartedly endorse are denoted by the all-empowering Let’s Go thumbs-up. In addition, the icons scattered at the end of a listing (as you saw in the sample above) can serve as visual cues to help you navigate each listing:

    PRICE DIVERSITY

    A final set of icons corresponds to what we call our price diversity scale, which approximates how much money you can expect to spend at a given establishment. For accommodations, we base our range on the cheapest price for which a single traveler can stay for one night. For food, we estimate the average amount one traveler will spend in one sitting. The table below tells you what you’ll typically find in Europe at the corresponding price range, but keep in mind that no scale can allow for the quirks of all individual establishments.

    AUSTRIA

    The Seine has its lovers’ trysts. The Thames has its bridges. The Tiber has Romulus and Remus. The Danube has—well, put on the Blue Danube and lace up your waltzing shoes, traveler, because this river will have you dancing. For joy, that is. This area has been inspiring troubled writers, wacky musicians, and singing families for centuries, but it’s still hard to pinpoint exactly what is special about Austria and its iconic waterway. Maybe it’s that Austria has maintained much of the charming 17th- and 18th-century architecture built along the river, resulting in a picturesque scene whether you stay in Vienna or venture into von Trapp territory in Salzburg. Or you can experience Austria’s second-largest but often overlooked city, Graz, whose local university makes it a haven for students. Or maybe it’s that the Viennese really do dance the waltz en masse on New Year’s Eve. We haven’t found one, all-encompassing answer yet (though not for lack of trying). We challenge you to find it, one cup of Viennese coffee and Danube backdrop at a time.

    greatest hits

    •ROYAL DIGS. Wander around Schloβ Schönbrunn, an imperial summer residence with a French garden that brings Versailles to mind.

    •DRINK LIKE A LOCAL. Tone your drinking muscles at Flex, a popular Vienna club with an offbeat vibe.

    •THE HILLS ARE ALIVE. Let your inner Von Trapp child sing as you stroll through Salzburg, where you can see nearly endless renditions of the musical.

    student life

    Vienna serves as the center of student life in Austria and has the bargains and culture to match. Leave your hostel in Mariahilf or Neubau and grab a bargain breakfast at Naschmarkt—an open-air market stocked with delicious ingredients and prepared meals alike. After refueling, split from the Core Districts, and head for the Inner City to people-watch at Franziskanerplatz with a cappuccino from Kleines Cafe. When the sun sets, head to First Floor for some drinks with other Viennese youth, or get your culture on at Staatsoper, where standing room tickets start at just €2.50.

    Though Salzburg is home to its own eponymous university, the city’s identity as a tourist town is not especially conducive to bargains or even student discounts. Your best opportunity to ogle other young things will be at Monkeys cafe.bar or the Shamrock Irish Pub, which offers .5L glasses of Guinness for €4.50.

    vienna

    Austria’s capital city is an ancient maze of breathtaking old buildings rooted in a rich history of rising and falling empires and wars. Wandering down the stone city streets, you may find yourself at the steps of a palace or a magnificent church. The spirits of Mozart, Beethoven, and many famous composers that even the biggest of Beliebers would recognize still linger in Vienna, from the city’s famous opera to the countless citizens who work to preserve Vienna’s rich musical heritage. While much of the city is rooted in classics and tradition, newer generations of the Viennese are bringing a modern edge to the historical city. Contemporary art is on the ups, and its cool presence stands out even more clearly when juxtaposed with the old world. The pace of Vienna is relaxed. Here, loitering for hours in coffee shops and parks is a right. Yet amongst the loiterers and on nearly every street corner, you’ll find some of the most talented philosophers, artists, and musicians in the world, making Vienna the magical place it is today.

    SIGHTS

    ST. STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL

    CHURCH

    Stephansplatz 3

    001 515 52 30 54

    www.stephanskirche.at

    Perhaps the most monstrous thing ever to possess a pet name, St. Stephen’s Cathedral (which the native Viennese call Steffl) stands looming in Vienna’s ever-busy first district. The cathedral’s history is as deep as the dirt and grime that give the once white building its black tint. St. Stephen’s Cathedral was built atop the ruins of two churches in 1106, but its expansion lasted into the 16th century. While you can get a glimpse into the beautifully ordained baroque interior of the cathedral without handing over any euro, this is only the tip of iceberg. If you decide to stop being cheap and are willing to cough up €4.50, you’ll find yourself immersed in the cathedral’s history (and potentially dust), as the giant limestone church holds many treasures, including the sepulcher of Emperor Frederik III, the Altarpiece of Wiener Neustadt, and a lot of old tombs. Guided tours of the cathedral catacombs and historical artifacts are given regularly, making sure you won’t miss out on a single famous dead guy. Take a hike up the 300+ stairs, and you can see a spectacular view of Vienna from St. Stephen’s south tower. Equally as beautiful as what you see from the inside is roof above your head. The cathedral’s giant roof is adorned with colored tiles that are definitely Insta-worthy. Vivaldi’s Four Seasons is played each year during the annual summer cathedral concert—haunting, considering the church was the site of the famous composer’s funeral. And if you’re not into real historic facts, the church is also rich in myths and legends about anything from forbidden romances to bread loafs (ask a guide to learn more!).

    €4.50. Open M-Sa 6am-10pm, Su 7am-10pm. Guided tours M-Sa 10:30am and 3pm, Su 3pm.

    SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL

    HORSEBACK RIDING

    Michaelerplatz 1

    01 5339031

    www.srs.at/en

    While Vienna has world-renowned ballets and operas, what really puts the city a step (or gallop) above the rest is its dancing horses. Okay, so the world-class equestrians of the Spanish Riding School in Vienna’s Hofburg Palace might resent someone referring to their haute ecole (classical equestrian training) as dancing, but their practice is as marvelous as any ballet. Vienna’s Spanish Riding School is the oldest of its kind and has preserved its traditional art throughout the years. And despite its name, the horses of the riding school are as Austrian as Mozartkugeln, bred at Piber Federal Stud in Western Austria. The school gets its name not from the home of the horses but rather from their breed, which is the Lipizzan Spanish breed. Once enrolled in the Spanish Riding School, the stallions are trained for six years to do things as simple as changing legs to more complicated moves like pirouetting—so maybe making the comparison to a ballet isn’t so ridiculous. While many horses go through this intensive training, only a few make the final cut and have a chance to perform. Of course, horses are not the only animals trained at the Spanish Riding School, as teenagers and young adults are also trained to ride and control the animals, and the horse and rider ultimately perform as one unit. You can see the incredible acts in the school’s gorgeous riding hall. The exquisite baroque architecture itself is worth a visit to the school. Tours of the school are given throughout each day. If you’re dying to see the horses in action but can’t make it to a gala performance, morning trainings with music are also offered to give visitors a glimpse of the show.

    Tour of school and other Hofburg museums €22. Show tickets €20-160. Open daily 9am-4pm. (Times may vary based on performance. Check website for details.)

    WIENER RIESENRAD

    AMUSEMENT PARK

    Riesenradplatz 1

    01 7295430

    www.wienerriesenrad.com/de

    Construction in 1897, Wiener Riesenrad is no longer the world’s tallest big wheel, but it is still a famous symbol of Vienna and perhaps an even more famous date place, with its two luxurious gondolas, the Jubilaum and Kaiserwaggon. Today, the Ferris wheel stands at the entrance of Vienna’s Prater amusement park, so after you take your touristy photos, you can spend your whole day (and budget) on a host of rides, from ones that whirl you backwards to ones that whirl you upsidedown and spin you all around. Just be sure to give yourself enough time to get your bearings before checking out the delicious Eisvogel in the square surrounding the park, which fittingly serves award-winning Viennese cuisine.

    Entrance to park free. Ride tickets €9, children €4. Open daily Jan-Feb 10am-7:45pm, March-Apr 10am-9:45pm, May-Sept 9am-11:45pm, Oct 10am-9:45pm, Nov-Dec 10am-7:45pm.

    STADTPARK

    PARK

    Main entrance from Johannesgasse

    01 40 00 80 42

    www.wien.gv.at/umwelt/parks/anlagen/stadtpark.html

    Vienna’s first public park, Stadtpark is a must for photos, walks, or just lying around. The huge green covers 28 acres and stretches from the city’s first district to the third. Stadtpark is more than just a great place to loiter; it is also home to many famous statues of dudes we should all know but probably don’t, such as Franz Schubert, Anton Bruckner, and the mayor who created the park, Andreas Zelinka. Zelinka doesn’t ring a bell? Don’t worry, you’re in good company. One guy you should definitely know is Johann Strauss. Not only did he compose the Blue Danube Waltz, but his memorial in Stadtpark is one of the most photographed monuments in the world—yes, shocking that it isn’t Mozart! The gilded bronze monument of the composer playing the violin has been housed in Stadtpark since 1921 and has been selfie central since the birth of the iPhone. Also of note is the picturesque stone bridge that connects the two halves of the park, which are divided by the Wienfluss river. While the bridge, constructed in 1857, may not be as popular as Strauss’s memorial, it is equally photogenic and a beautiful place to take a stroll and some snapshots. For kids or anyone who just really likes to swing, Kinderpark was added to the park only one year after its opening and continues to operate as a playground and site for many pickup football games. For the I’m-an-artist-not-an-athlete types, Stadtpark’s Kursalon is a beautiful Italian Renaissance-style building that is used for dances and concerts. And uniting the sporty and artistic is the Kursalon’s delicious Cafe Restaurant Johann—apple strudel is the only way to end a day at Stadtpark.

    Free. Open daily 24hr.

    KARLSKIRCHE

    CHURCH

    Kreuzherrengasse 1

    1 505 62 94

    www.karlskirche.at

    The green dome of Karlskirche peaks its head between the rows of buildings of Karlsplatz, sparking the curiosity of all who catch a glimpse. Upon closer investigation, you’ll find a beautiful opening in the streets and stores of Karlsplatz that houses this fantastic baroque church. Karlskirche or St. Charles’s Church, was built in 1739, fulfilling a vow taken by Emporer Charles VI during a plague epidemic—history’s ultimate pinky promise. The famous church, often cited as one of the most beautiful churches in Vienna, was consecrated for St. Charles Borromeo, and the exhibits inside display some of his possessions. But perhaps more exquisite than the exhibits (and free) is the view you’ll get by just standing in the breathtaking cathedral and looking up. The entire building is a true baroque masterpiece: its high alter has been restored to look as spectacular as ever, with an abundance of golds and marble; at the top of the alter is a triangular window letting in an almost heavenly light; and its ceiling is painted fantastically. Karlskirche also allows you to climb up to the second floor and get an up-close look at the intricate colors and detailing of the famous building. A highlight to any My Stay in Vienna scrapbook, Karlskirche is a must stop in the city.

    €6. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm with 30min. lunch break at 12:30pm, Su noon-5:45pm.

    TIERGARTEN SCHONBRUNN

    ZOO

    Maxingstraße 13b

    1 87 79 29 40

    www.zoovienna.at

    The Tiegarten Schonbrunn, located at Vienna’s biggest castle, the Schonbrunn, is the oldest (and one of the largest) zoo in the world. It was constructed in 1752 by Emperor Franz I as the royal menagerie. The circular structure that now operates as one of many restaurants in the zoo was originally constructed as the breakfast pavilion for the emperor and his wife, Maria Theresia. Talk about upper crust. One of the most popular exhibits in the zoo is its giant pandas, Yang Yang, Long Hui, Fu Hu, and Fu Long, whose natural birth in 2007 was the first of its kind in all of Europe. Don’t think that because Tiegarten Schonbrunn is old it’s also out of date. In fact, the zoo has aged like wine and gotten better with time. While it preserves its old charm and character, Tiegarten has become quite modern. Its over 500 species are housed in a simulated rainforest house, flooded Amazon, and an arctic region for the zoo’s new polar bears. Tiegarten Schonbrunn was also awarded the title of Europe’s best zoo three times. Make sure to head to the zoo well before its 6:30pm closing time, as many of the animals start falling asleep and hiding around 5:30pm.

    €16.50. Open daily Apr-Sept 9am-6:30pm, Oct 9am-5:30pm, Nov-Jan 9am-4:30pm, Feb 9am-5pm, Mar 9am-5:30pm.

    get a room!

    HOSTELING INTERNATIONAL MYRTHENGASSE

    HOSTEL $

    Myrthengasse 7

    01 52 36 31 60

    www.hihostels.com

    As part of an international hostel chain, Hostelling International has the formula for mediocre living down: bed, sheets, and a roof over the head…and maybe some butter and toast to really entice the guests. While a stay at Hosteling International Myrthengasse is definitely preferable to bumming it under a tree, it’s more basic than a 12-year-old Instagramming a pumpkin spice latte. Hosteling International Myrthengasse is all about functionality. The hostel’s location makes it easy to escape into Old Town Vienna, and it’s only a short walk to the bustling downtown. If you are a Hosteling International member, Hosteling International Myrthengasse is perhaps your most economically intelligent move.

    Dorms starting at €22. Reception 24hr.

    MY MOJO VIE HOSTEL

    HOSTEL $

    Kaiserstrasse 77, Apt. 8

    676 55 111 55

    www.mymojovie.at

    The danger with staying at Mojo Hostel is that you’ll probably never want to leave. In fact, some guests have been known to book the minimum two nights and ended up staying six weeks. Lucky ducks. In order to book a room at this beautiful converted apartment, you must plan far in advance—don’t rely on doing the classic student traveler move of booking the night before. While the hostel may be a decent walk from the city center, it is very close to a metro station that’ll get you to Vienna’s first district in a flash. But honestly, with all the free hostel food and great amenities, you might find yourself staying in more often than you’d think. For your comfort, the hostel offers a full bath (that’s right, even a tub!), towels, comfortable beds, a TV and cozy living room, and a laptop for use in each room. Mojo’s prices may seem a little steep for a hostel, but in the end, the high quality amenities are worth a few extra euro, and the friends you’ll make are priceless.

    Rooms starting at €34. Reception 24hr.

    BELIEVE IT OR NOT HOSTEL

    HOSTEL $

    Myrthengasse 10/14

    0676 55 00 055

    www.believe-it-or-not-vienna.at

    Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum boasts freaking bizarre things. Vienna’s Believe It or Not Hostel boasts the freaking best. A self-proclaimed all inclusive apartment, Believe It or Not has the feel of a home more than that of a hostel. It’s interior is stylish, with wood floors, animal skin rugs, white furniture, pillows, steel, guitars, a hammock—the list of chicness is so long that to name everything making Believe it or Not Hostel more put together than you would take up this whole listing. Its location is convenient, as it is in a quiet neighborhood in the old town but is still less than a mile from Hofburg Castle and the busy city. And when hostel host Lilly is around to make breakfast and chat up guests, she acts as though she is inviting you into her home rather than just taking your cash. She is incredibly warm, kind, and personable. The price for perfection is not cheap as Believe It or Not is a bit expensive for a hostel, but look at it this way: skip one meal and instead fill up on the hostel’s free Nutella.

    8-bed dorms €35. 4-bed dorms €40. Breakfast free. Reception open daily 8am-noon, if arriving before or after, buzz in with the intercom.

    SIGMUND FREUD MUSEUM

    MUSEUM

    Berggasse 19

    1 319 15 96

    www.freud-museum.at

    Suffering from disruptive dreams? In need of a way to train your pet mouse? Check out Vienna’s Sigmund Freud museum in the ninth district. The museum, located in Vienna’s former Jewish district, is the former residence of the famous psychologist before he emigrated from Austria to Britain during World War II. While you may not work out your Oedipus complex here, you will find a great deal of original Freud paraphernalia displayed in the small museum. It is furnished with couches and chairs that once cushioned the legend and the crazy patients he studied. Also on display are a number of Freud’s papers and studies as well as a documentary on Freud’s life. The museum was started with help from Freud’s daughter, Anna, in 1971 and continues to grow. If you, like most college students, took any type of psychology class during your studies, then getting a look into the digs of the man who caused you all that grief during exam week is a fascinating experience.

    €8. Open daily 9am-5pm.

    BURGGARTEN

    PARK

    Josefsplatz 1

    1 533 90 83

    www.bmlfuw.gv.at

    Of Vienna’s many parks, Burggarten definitely wins Most Likely to be Full On Any Given Day of the Week. The park, which is as large as its accolade, is often filled with many picnic blankets and bodies sprawled across its grass. Primarily young Viennese and tourists can be found throughout the historic park, with everyone eating, playing music, juggling, and, more often than not, getting a bit tipsy. The park has two main sections divided by a strip of large trees. Its main entrance on the side of the Ringstrasse opens up to the Mozart Memorial and flowers in the shape of a treble clef. This side is more likely to have tourists taking goofy pictures, so if you can ignore the constant cheesing, you’ll find that this side is less crowded in terms of loiterers and often full of street musicians and jugglers hoping to benefit from the international disturbers of the peace. Behind the barrier of trees is the more popular side for Viennese youth. It is a huge open field adjacent to the Schmetterling Haus (Butterfly House) and the Burggarten Cafe. It’s the perfect place to enjoy Frisbee, footsie, and wine straight from the bottle. Also surrounding Burggarten is the back wall of the majestic Hofburg, which even from behind looks stunning and gives the park a grand touch.

    Free. Open daily 24hr.

    RATHAUS

    CULTURAL SITE

    Friedrich-Schmidt-Platz 1

    01 525 50

    www.wien.gv.at

    Rathaus means town hall, which to you probably means boring meetings or local crazies arguing about noise complaints. But the Rathaus of Vienna is far from mundane. Not only is this gorgeous gothic building, which serves as the city’s town hall, the home of the mayor, but it is also the backdrop of the beautiful Rathauspark. The park is huge and has many green fields and fountains, perfect for wasting away a lazy afternoon. But even the opportunity to loiter in luxury is not the best feature of Rathaus. Throughout the summer, the mayor hosts a number of cultural events in his ultimate front yard throughout the summer. The Rathaus brings the locals of Vienna and tourists together through film, art, and cultural festivals, such as the huge, annual Vienna Pride and Rainbow Parade. If you visit Vienna’s town hall in the summer, you are likely to find yourself in the middle of one of these many fests. But if you miss out and catch the park at one of its quietier moments, embrace the peace of the park and the breathtaking architecture of Vienna’s town hall.

    Free. Open daily 24hr.

    CAFE CENTRAL

    CAFE

    Herrengasse 14

    01 5333763

    www.palaisevents.at/cafecentral.html

    Once a grand bank and stock market house, Palais Ferstel opened Cafe Central as its focus in 1876. The interior of this coffee house looks like it could be located in the Hofburg rather than on a city center street corner. It is composed of huge arches, plush red seating, and perhaps its greatest crown: the best applestrudel in Vienna (making it the best in the world). Famous intellectuals such as Freud and infamous dictators like Hitler have all graced Central’s booths to ponder humanity for hours over the cafe’s near-perfect melanges. But today, one thing you’re almost guaranteed to not see at Cafe Central is any locals. The cafe is a hub for tourists with big cameras and iPhones, taking photos of nearly every bite. Not that anyone can blame them after seeing the decadent, flaky, layer upon layer of warm cinnamon perfection that is the applestrudel or the mountain of whipped cream it comes with. If the strudel isn’t enough sugar for you, you probably have a problem. Still, do yourself a favor and at least look at the other cakes on display in the front of the cafe. Indulge all your senses, fulfill your daily calorie count, and embrace your touristy side—Cafe Central is worth it.

    Coffee €3-7. Cakes €3-6. Open M-Sa 7:30am-10pm.

    FOOD

    MOMEN

    HEALTH FOOD $$

    Neuer Markt 8a

    www.momen.at

    Face it, if you’ve been in Vienna for any time at all, you’ve probably had at least one of these three things: schnitzel, apple strudel, or McDonald’s. Which means that eating healthily isn’t easy with the plethora of sweets and fried food waiting for you around every corner in Vienna. Fortunately, Momen, located in Vienna’s first district, changes the game and offers a selection of healthy, organic, and delicious food. Momen’s menu primarily consists of three things: hummus, steak, and salad. You can get hummus and guacamole, hummus and chicken, and even hummus and either New York Strip or Flank Steak. If you aren’t into hummus, 1) What is wrong with you? 2) Momen’s other main entrees have just as many unique, fresh, and delicious choices. On top of being a health foods restaurant, Momen is also an outdoor hookah bar—interesting combo, but we won’t question it because it gives the restaurant a cool vibe and makes it a true hummus hangout.

    Hummus €9-16. Steak €13-20. Open daily 11am-11pm.

    CAFE ESPRESSO

    CAFE $

    Burggasse 57

    0676 596 16 45

    www.myashoka.de

    The bamboo wall blocking the outdoor seating from the street and the Hawaiian flowered umbrellas blocking customers from UV rays make Cafe Espresso stand out from the millions of other coffee shops in Vienna. The beach feel, juxtaposed with the beautiful old world feel that is inescapable in Vienna, gives the cafe a stylish but chill vibe. It’s the perfect place to relax with a cappuccino and your computer (or, who knows, a real book). Not only is Cafe Espresso good for espresso (duh) and loitering, it also serves delicious food. Start the day off right by devouring a Fluffy Omelette that lives up to its name or, if still recovering from the night before, try Espresso’s hangover cure of eggs with cheese and ham on a delicious roll. And when that doesn’t quite rid you of the jackhammer in your head, don’t be afraid to flop out on Espresso’s retro booths or lay your head on the table. That’s not rude. It’s just that chill here.

    Coffee €2-5. Open M-F 7:30am-1am, Sa-Su 10am-1am.

    EIS-GREISSLER

    ICE CREAM $

    Rotenturmstraße 14

    664 311 91 95

    Despite being a tiny shop surrounded by the big department stores of Vienna’s Rotenturmstraße street, Eis-Greissler is impossible to miss (largely due to the women’s-restroom-length line stretching from its counter out onto the sidewalk). When you realize that Eis-Greissler is just another ice cream shop, the long line might have you scratching your head. But just wait. Flavors like goat cheese, sour cream blueberry, and elder flower are just a few of the options you’ll find on Eis-Greissler’s menu. Goat cheese ice cream might sound freaking bizarre, but one lick and you’ll wonder why you ever settled for basic bitches like vanilla and chocolate (although those classics are available as well). Apart from its unique flavors, Eis-Greissler’s ingredients also make it special—everything that goes into your heavenly scoop(s) are from local farms and 100% organic. (Organic means healthy right?) Whether you’re in Vienna for a month, a day, or a mere 30min. stop by Eis-Greissler ASAP. You’ll never look at ice cream the same way.

    1 scoop €2. 2 scoop €3.40. Open daily 11am-11pm.

    FREIRAUM

    RESTAURANT, BAR $$$

    Mariahilfer Straße 117

    01 59 69 600

    www.freiraum117.at

    If Freiraum’s chic appearance doesn’t intimidate you, step into this huge restaurant, bar, lounge, and cafe that is just as trendy as it appears. Freiraum’s menu has as many types of cuisine as a hipster has favorite foreign films. You can choose anything Thai to Italian to American to good old schnitzel. Its cocktails, as expensive as they are trendy, are refreshing and delicious; its delicious, thin crust pizza is so good it’ll be gone in seconds; and its curry has the perfect amount of kick. Freiraum even makes schnitzel elegant. On a sunny day, Freiraum’s open windows make this a place you could waste your whole day.

    Entrees €12-25. Drinks €5-12. Open M-Th 8am-2am, F-Sa 8am-4am, Su 8am-2am.

    LE BOL

    CAFE $$

    Neuer Markt 14

    06 99 10 30 18 99

    www.lebol.at

    True coffee lovers know that a cup is simply not enough. A bowl, on the other hand, is every coffee lover’s fantasy. If the name isn’t a dead giveaway, Le Bol is where these dreams come true. This French-inspired cafe in Vienna’s first district is popular for its bowls of delicious joe as well as its fine pastries, sandwiches, and snack plates. Even more unique about than the dishware is where Le Bol serves its espresso: while it has a large outdoor dining area and a few intimate tables inside, Le Bol calls itself la table commune de Vienna. For those of you who don’t speak French and can’t figure out the rather obvious translation, this means the common table of Vienna. Step inside the warm cafe, and you’ll understand why. In the center of the cafe’s main dining room is a large rectangular table that seats nearly 20 people. Here people come together to share interesting conversation and loads of dinner stories—like your family’s Christmas dinner, except with less dysfunction. In true Viennese style, people sit for hours reading, conversing, and relaxing at the cafe’s tables, big or small.

    Coffee €2.50-5. Entrees €6-13. Open daily 8am-10pm.

    BITZINGER WURSTELSTAND ALBERTINA

    VIENNESE $

    Augustinerstraße 1

    1 533 10 26

    www.bitzinger.at

    Bitzinger Wurstelstand Albertina may look like just another food stand selling hotdogs and pretzels, but there’s a reason its line is so impressive: it’s that damn good. The wursts of Bitzinger Wurstelstand Albertina are known throughout Vienna for being among the top street foods. Juicy, tender, and savory, these wursts are heavenly on a sober day and downright orgasmic on a drunken nights. And just because Bitzinger Wurstelstand Albertina is a food stand doesn’t mean it’s simple. You can choose from a variety of hotdogs and wursts here—some served spicy with curry, others traditional with mustard. The most popular wurst is a classic filled with pockets of melted cheese. The dogs can be served in a bun for easy transport or sliced on a plate. Either way, the location of Bitzinger Wurstelstand Albertina right next to Burggarten park makes it the perfect place to get cheap eats on the go.

    Wursts €3-6. Open daily 11am-midnight.

    CASTELLETTO

    CAFE $$

    Rotenturmstraße 24

    01 535 44 83

    www.castelletto.at

    If the dangling gold lights of Castelletto don’t catch your eye, the even more fantastical gelato creations here surely will. Located in the busy Schwedenplatz, Castelletto is a popular summer hangout for both locals and tourists. The cafe, restaurant, and gelato stand has very limited indoor seating, but it has a huge dining space outside. If ice cream, cookies, and fudge aren’t at the bottom of your food pyramid, you should first try reevaluating your priorities, but if that doesn’t work for you, go ahead and check out the rest of Castelletto’s menus. The cafe has a number of options, from salads to soups to steak and salmon. With its perfect location and sell-your-soul-for-them sweets, Castelletto is a worthwhile stop on any day in Vienna.

    Entrees €8-15. Gelato €1.50-6. Open daily 7am-midnight.

    STEINDL

    VIENNESE $$

    Stumpergasse 59

    1 596 52 76

    www.restaurant-steindl.at

    While only a turn away from the busy city center, Steindl is a quiet, chill spot to get a good meal. With its relaxed bar, simple decor, and all too cool owners, Steindl will wrap you in relaxation with or without the help of wine. Its menu includes traditional Viennese delicacies but with Steindl’s own gourmet touches. Schnitzel is served with tomato and mozzarella, and pastas include exotic mushrooms and rich cream sauces. Like your mom’s home cooking, this cuisine somehow hits the spot. But unlike your mom’s home cooking, the flavors here are a bit more creative and complex. The food of Steindl looks as fancy as it sounds, and while dishes are chic and stylish, the restaurant itself is casual. You might feel so comfortable in Steindl’s wooden booths that you get the urge to sling off your shoes and put up your feet. Although frequented by many tourists, especially due its proximity to a popular hostel, Steindl’s crowd includes many locals.

    Entrees €7-20. Drinks €2-10. Open M-F 10am-10pm, Sa 3-8pm. Bar open M-Sa until midnight.

    INDISCHES NAMASTE

    INDIAN $$

    Seidengasse 41

    01 523 80 60

    Indisches Namaste is the underdog you love to root for. It’s a small, family owned Indian restaurant just a few blocks from Vienna’s Westbanhof train station. Run by an Indian husband and wife duo, Namaste is quite the mom and pop operation, with the wife cooking and the husband serving. This makes sitting down at Namaste feel almost like stepping into someone’s home for dinner instead of going to a restaurant. When you eat at Namaste, you’re never quite sure what you’re going to get—sometimes its doors may not open until 20min. after their 6pm dinner service begins, and you aren’t guaranteed to find chicken tandoori being served here, but as they say, when one door closes, another one opens. And any one of Namaste’s open doors is delicious and authentic

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