Finding Big Sky: Western Montana's 1-1 Best Spots
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About this ebook
A guide to some of the best spots to visit in spectacular western Montana -- lakes, mountains, trails, ski areas, bars, and campgrounds.
Jeff Schmerker
Jeff Schmerker lives in Missoula, Montana.
Read more from Jeff Schmerker
Finding Big Sky: 101 Great Spots in Western Montana Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLittle Big Sky: Where to Hike, Bike, Ski, Camp, and Get Wet with Kids in Western Montana Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsDownhill Skiing in Western Montana: An Insider's Guide Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
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Finding Big Sky - Jeff Schmerker
1. St. Paul Peak
From Noxon, follow MT 200 east; turn north on Forest Road 150; it quickly makes a sharp right. Follow FR 150 about 8 miles and make a right on Forest Road 2741, which ends 6 miles later at the trailhead
As a guide book said about the area, the drive to the trailhead here is much more difficult than the hike itself. After bouncing along on dirt and dusty roads for about 8 miles up the large Rock Creek drainage, you then begin a grueling seven-mile uphill push which gains 2,500 vertical feet -- that would be a tough hike, but this is done in a vehicle (and preferably a sturdy one with tough tires). After an hour in four wheel drive I made it to the trailhead to not surprisingly find just one other battered vehicle. On the trail, within minutes I had entered the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness and was walking along treeline toward St. Paul Pass and Cliff Lake. I skirted Cliff Lake and aimed up the southeast ridge of St. Paul Peak, which is probably the easiest big mountain to climb in the Cabinets (actually, it’s one of the easiest mountains to climb anywhere). I was on top an hour after clicking the truck door closed, braced against a cold wind and swirling fog. Nice views.
2. Morrell Mountain Lookout
From Seeley Lake, head north on MT 83; make a right on Morrell Creek Road and a left on Mt. Morrell Road at Cottonwood Lakes
It was a cool morning, so I had a lazy start, drinking coffee and listening to country music on the drive up, passing Cottonwood Lakes and bouncing on the mostly good road until the road was blocked by snow. As often happens, however, this snow was not continuous, so past the drift I was on snow and off, working up the south face the Swan Range, and 90 minutes later was at the lookout. The Morrell Peak lookout is not on Morrell Peak itself, but a high point one bump south, which affords a commanding view of everything from Ovando to the Bitterroot. The lookout, however, was still locked for the winter, so I continued along the ridge, gaining ground, until making the peak itself -- featureless from the south and piercing from the east and north. From there, I was off into the Bob.
3. Point Six
From Missoula, follow Grant Creek Road, turn left on Snowbowl Road, and park at Snowbowl Ski Area. Ascend to the top of the ski area and then Point Six
Now this is rare -- I've got free tickets to Snowbowl and the avalanche danger is low. I pick up Kevin at a leisurely hour and 25 minutes later we pull into the Snowbowl parking lot. We take the Grizzly chair up, traverse a bit, and load on to the LaVelle chair. From the top of LaVelle it's a short schuss to the ski area boundary, where we gear up and start climbing. You can easily go around Point Six and save yourself a bit of effort, but the top has a great view of both the Rattlesnake Mountains and the Missoula Valley. Actually, it's not just those two you see, but on a clear day everything from the Great Burn to the Anaconda-Pintlars to the Swans and of course the Mission. This peak bristles with radio equipment and the National Weather Service's Doppler radar -- which some brilliant person dubbed the Death Star. We ski off the north face, into the wilderness.
4. Ch-paa-qn
*Take Interstate 90 west from Missoula to the Nine Mile Exit; go north to the ranger station and visitor center, then follow signs to the trailhead
Ch-paa-qn (pronounced ‘cha-pa-kwin’) looks like a volcano but spews nothing more than spindrift. It’s one of the higher peaks visible from the Missoula Valley, but once the road to the south side of the peak melts out it’s a fairly easy peak to climb. I’ll always remember this peak, I think, because it was the last hike Laura and I took together before Cooper was born. The peak was once called ‘Squaw’, and some still refer to it by that name. Its current name means ‘shining peak’ in Salish. While the peak is a popular climb, the trail to the summit ends at treeline, meaning determined hikers need to boulder and talus hop the final 300 vertical feet to the summit.
5. Jewel Basin
*From Bigfork, head north on MT 35, east on MT 83, and north on Echo Lake Road. Make a right on Foothill Road and follow the signs to Jewel Basin
We churn on in low range, skirting rockfall and downed branches, before hitting a 5-foot high drift. Because of grizzlies Laura wants to sleep in the back of the truck instead of a tent, but that means we have to unload everything; most of it goes on the roof. In the morning we are up with the sun, and after a long breakfast we hike over the drift and up the road. Some hikers have come this way, and someone on an ATV, but we are the first today and perhaps the first in a while. After about a mile we reach what looks like the end of the road -- but it’s hard to tell for sure as everything is buried under feet and feet of snow. We split -- Laura follows the hint of a summer