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Pat Sloan's Teach Me to Machine Quilt: Learn the Basics of Walking Foot and Free-Motion Quilting

Pat Sloan's Teach Me to Machine Quilt: Learn the Basics of Walking Foot and Free-Motion Quilting

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Pat Sloan's Teach Me to Machine Quilt: Learn the Basics of Walking Foot and Free-Motion Quilting

206 pagine
1 ora
Oct 4, 2016


Popular teacher, designer, and online radio host Pat Sloan teaches all you need to know to machine quilt successfully. In this third book of her beginner-friendly "Teach Me" series, Pat guides you step by step through walking-foot and free-motion quilting techniques. First-time quilters will be confidently quilting in no time, and experienced stitchers will discover the joy of finishing their quilts themselves.
No-fear learning for quilting novices--Pat covers all the information you need to quilt from start to finish Pat guides you through simple and fun practice projects, including a strip-pieced table runner and an easy applique design Collect the entire skill-building library of Pat Sloan's popular "Teach Me" series of booksVideo
Oct 4, 2016

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Pat Sloan's Teach Me to Machine Quilt - Pat Sloan


Getting Ready to Machine Quilt

Preparing your quilt properly is the groundwork for successful quilting. Whether you plan to use a walking foot or want to free-motion quilt your project, now’s the time to clean up the quilt top and make sure it’s square, choose a batting, and prepare the backing. You also need to adequately baste your quilt to avoid a whole host of problems while quilting it.

Preparing the Quilt Top

Having a neat and tidy quilt top is key to successfully finishing the quilt. Here are my four easy steps.

1. Check for popped seams. Place the quilt top right side up and scan it for any seams that might not have been sewn properly. It’s much easier to fix any errors now rather than after the quilt is basted.

2. Trim loose threads on the right and wrong sides of the quilt top. I trim threads as I go, but I still find stray threads. Often, long dark threads are visible through the top. Look for any seams that may be twisted and re-press, if needed.

3. Square up the quilt top. If the quilt top isn’t square, it won’t get better after basting. (By square, I mean that the edges are parallel to one another and the corners are each a true 90°. This goes for rectangular quilts too!) Measure the width of the quilt top across the top, middle, and bottom edges. The measurements should all be the same. Measure the length of the quilt top in the same way. Place a large square ruler in each corner to make sure the corners are square. If the border is wavy, that means the border strips weren’t measured correctly before sewing them to the quilt. To remedy this, remove the border. Measure the quilt top and border strips again, trim the strips as needed, and then sew the border to the quilt top.

4. Stay stitch around the quilt. Sew about ⅛" from each edge (photo 1). The stitching will stabilize the seams. This is especially important when there’s patchwork on the outer edge of the quilt top. You don’t want the seams to come undone during the basting and quilting process.

See Pat demonstrate stay stitching at

Making the Quilt Backing

Starting with my first quilt, I made the backing using leftover fabrics from the quilt top. If I didn’t have leftover fabrics, I sometimes used fabrics that fell into the I don’t know why I bought them category, so I could use them up! I still piece a lot of my quilt backs, but now I prefer to have the backing complement the front, particularly for larger quilts where the backing will be seen.

For large quilts, the backing should be at least 8 wider than the top, which allows 4 of backing on all sides so you can position the batting and top accurately. For smaller quilts, such as wall hangings and table runners, make the backing 4 to 5 wider than the top, which allows at least 2" on all sides.

Most fabric is about 40 wide, once you account for shrinkage and removing the selvages. Quilts less than 35 wide can use one length of fabric for the backing. If the quilt is more than 36 wide, you’ll need to piece the backing. Or, for larger quilts, you can purchase a wide quilt back, which measures 90 or 108" wide.

Calculating Backing Fabric

Pieced Backing Options

If you’re using just one fabric for the backing (as opposed to piecing a scrappy backing), you’ll need to calculate how much backing fabric is necessary based on the width of the quilt top. For quilts that are 40 to 60 wide, use two or three lengths of fabric with either one or two horizontal seams as shown (fig. 1). Be sure to remove the selvage and join the lengths of fabric using a ¼" seam allowance.

Fig. 1

For quilts that are 60" wide or larger, use two or three lengths of fabric with either one or two vertical seams as shown (fig. 2).

Fig. 2

It’s fun using leftover fabric from the quilt top to make a scrappy pieced backing. I might have a wide section, then a strip of either scraps or single fabric, and then the same fabric again on the other side of the strip. Or I might use the center for randomly sized pieces of leftover fabrics and then add wide strips to both sides of the patchwork center (fig. 3).

Fig. 3

All great achievements require time.



Batting (photo 1) is available in many different styles—from the fiber content to the thickness (or loft). I’ve always preferred a flat (or low-loft) batting that doesn’t require super close quilting. Every batting tells you on the package how closely it should be quilted.

I like either 100% cotton batting or a batting with a higher percentage of cotton, such as 80% cotton/20% polyester or 60% cotton/40% polyester. These battings are thinner and crinkle more when washed. For a little more loft, I like 100% wool batting. The extra loft means it’s not as easy for a beginner to use because the quilt sandwich will be thicker. So I recommend starting with a cotton or cotton/polyester batting. Keep in mind, some 100% cotton battings need to be quilted more closely than others, so check the label or packaging for details.

Batting Sampler

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