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    A Little Vintage Guide to Kitchen Repairs - Including Fixing Stoves and Ranges, Sharpening Knives and Restoring China
    A Little Vintage Guide to Kitchen Repairs - Including Fixing Stoves and Ranges, Sharpening Knives and Restoring China
    A Little Vintage Guide to Kitchen Repairs - Including Fixing Stoves and Ranges, Sharpening Knives and Restoring China
    Ebook101 pages1 hour

    A Little Vintage Guide to Kitchen Repairs - Including Fixing Stoves and Ranges, Sharpening Knives and Restoring China

    By Anon Anon

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    About this ebook

    Teach yourself these quick and easy tricks to keeping your kitchen clean and working smoothly with things that you will have in your cupboards. Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 6, 2016
    ISBN9781473359017
    A Little Vintage Guide to Kitchen Repairs - Including Fixing Stoves and Ranges, Sharpening Knives and Restoring China

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      Book preview

      A Little Vintage Guide to Kitchen Repairs - Including Fixing Stoves and Ranges, Sharpening Knives and Restoring China - Anon Anon

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      Fixing Stoves and Ranges

      Fixing a Close - fire Range or Kitchener.—In Fig. 1 is given a front view of a close-fire range or kitchener, with a left-hand oven A, side boiler B, fire C, drawing-out fret D, ash-pan E, soot-doors F, of which there are three in the back covings, one below the oven, and one in the hob, directly over the side flue of the oven, and which is not shown; dampers G, and vent damper and bearer H. Fig. 2 shows the formation of the flues, connected with the range. Starting from the fire, the oven flue goes across the top of the oven, under the hob, down the side next the jamb, thence under the oven, and round to the far side of the feather J, and afterwards up the back to the damper G. This should in every case be tight-fitting, with no space for air passing when closed, otherwise the control of the oven is not as it should be.

      The boiler is usually side heated, with a perforated protecting plate L, but some are fitted with a collar, to give a hot-plate flue. This collar is just the width of the opening which is in the hob for filling water, extends about 2 in. down, and usually has an aperture left in it, to take off steam from the boiler. The hot-plate flue goes across the top of the boiler, all round the collar, and up the back of the coving as shown. The direct flue to the chimney goes straight back from the top of the fire, close below the hob joining plate, if the latter is thick enough to stand the heat, but if not, thin brick should be laid along the top of the flue as a protection, then up behind.

      Fig. 3 is a plan of the ash-box, and the flue under the oven, with the feather, or oven rest, indicated. The brick rest under the oven next to the ash-pit, and the upright flue behind the oven, are also shown.

      Fig. 4 is a plan of the range, with the hobs removed, showing the oven, with the side brick in position next to the fire, and the hob packing N across the front and back of the top of the oven, to prevent the drawing of cold air. The fire-grate is shown in position, and the sloped brick back of the fire and the direct flue are indicated. The collar is shown, with the hob packing round the top of the boiler, forming the hot-plate flue.

      When fixing, it is best to set in the oven front and hob, the boiler front, and fire joining. Holes are cut in the jamb for the projected parts of the hobs, which keep the range from travelling out. When this is done, and all set straight, the level of the hobs from front to back should be seen to, and the feather below the oven either packed up or cut down into the hearthstone, as required.

      If side covings are required by the customer, and supplied with the range, the best plan is to level the hobs to suit the side coving and jamb-moulding, making the latter lie hard on the stone jamb. See that the boiler hob and joining hob at the back of the fire get into their places, as if not properly measured the range may have to be cut into the jambs on either side, or both sides, of the fireplace. This done, mark the position of the oven front on the hearthstone, and remove everything except the oven and oven front. Lay with bricks below the oven to the level of the soot cleaning door F (Fig. 1), and fix the side of the ash-box, as shown in Fig. 3, hard against the bottom of the oven.

      Next, against the side of the oven feather, and behind the oven, start the brickwork, as in Fig. 3, to form the oven flue. Gradually slope if required, so that the flue is directly below, and the area the same as, the dampers at the hob level. Watch that the position of the oven has not altered, and build up to the level of the damper frame, first seeing to the correct distance back required for the back covings, and leaving room for a mortar bed. Refix the boiler and fire fronts, and set in the ash-pan.

      Build the bricks round the pan, and against the boiler front, to form a rest for the boiler, the level being got from the hole left for the draw-off cock. Remove the ash-pan, and build up to the level of the bottom grate. If required, project the brickwork below the grate and above the pan, so that the grate is against the brickwork, and at the same time carry up the oven flue. Leave holes if required for the draw-out fret in the brickwork.

      Now put the boiler on its bed, and after seeing that it is in its right place, pack in next the jamb and behind the boiler. The hot-plate flue over the top of the boiler can next be fitted, and also the hob packing over the oven. After this the back of the fire and the direct flue can be formed; the hobs being bedded down, when the round corners of the fronts have been built up airtight. The

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