Sherley's Cat Book, Being Their Famous Hints to Cat Lovers - A Manual for the Daily Use of Cat Owners, Breeders, Fanciers, Dealers and Others in the Care and Treatment of Cats
By Anon Anon
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Sherley's Cat Book, Being Their Famous Hints to Cat Lovers - A Manual for the Daily Use of Cat Owners, Breeders, Fanciers, Dealers and Others in the Care and Treatment of Cats - Anon Anon
67
Introductory — Feeding — House Manners — Coat — Eyes — Nails — Teething — Grass — Loss of Condition
INTRODUCTORY.
Cats are normally very healthy animals, but domestication and modern conditions have made it impossible for them to always keep in perfect health unaided. Impurities and toxins from the bowel become absorbed by the blood stream and reach every part of the system through the general circulation, with obviously detrimental effects, and cats cannot now obtain the natural correctives. The best and easiest way to ensure their continued wellbeing, which is demonstrated by clear eyes, a glossy coat, and lively spirits, is to give Sherley’s Cat Condition Powders regularly, administering a two-day course each week. As these powders are completely tasteless they are readily taken in a little milk or mixed with the food, and they may even be shaken dry on the tongue. They are an invaluable tonic, and may safely be given to the most delicate cat or kitten.
In addition to their power to keep the cat in perfect condition when given regularly, they act also as a most successful restorative of full health after illness, and themselves constitute a complete treatment for the cure of certain ailments, as perusal of this Cat Book will show.
FEEDING.
Cats love meat either cooked or raw—it may be beef or mutton or killed horse flesh—and it is a good plan to vary it. Fish also is liked by cats as a rule, but it must be fresh, by which we mean not salted. In most cases it is best after being boiled and then allowed to get cold. For a change, however, the fish may be given raw, and some cats prefer it this way. Slightly cooked (boiled) liver is another good change for cats, and as it is slightly aperient it is a good plan to give it regularly once or twice a week to cats kept in a house where there is no garden and only a box of sand or mould to go to; without something of this kind cats kept under these conditions get uncomfortably constipated, the health suffering in consequence.
Cats are fond of rabbit, cooked or raw, and this may be given for another change, but avoid the inside (entrails) unless they have been cooked, as they often contain the eggs of worms, and are much more harmful to cats than dogs; even the liver of a chicken or of a bird of any kind should never be given raw to a cat if it is at all spotted, as the spots often contain the eggs of worms, but it is quite safe if such a liver be first well-boiled. As to the quantity, six ounces of meat or game or eight ounces of fish is sufficient for the largest cat, although some greedy cats will eat more. Fish and game bones should be avoided, as although cats may eat them with impunity for some time the day generally comes when a piece becomes lodged between the teeth or gets stuck across the roof of the mouth or in the throat, causing great pain and inconvenience and, in addition, a visit to the surgeon, but a big bone is beneficial as it helps to keep the teeth clean. As a rule, some broken-up Lactol Biscuit given dry to the cat answers the same purpose as a bone, and, of course, it is much safer. Many cats are fond of these biscuits. Cats enjoy a saucerful of Lactol or milk, and this can be given once or twice a day. A supply of clean cold water should also be kept within reach at all times.
HOUSE MANNERS.
Cats kept in a house should always be supplied with a box or tin which should be half-filled with sand, very fine moss litter, earth, or sifted cinders—sand being the best—and kept in a convenient but out of the way place to which the cat can always retire. The box or tin should be emptied regularly for hygienic purposes, and also because many cats will not use a damp receptacle. An enamel or tin cooking-dish, 16 in. x 12 in., is excellent for this purpose, as it is easy to keep clean.
THE COAT.
A cat as a rule keeps its own coat clean and in good order by constantly licking it, the tongue being papillous and acting almost like a brush. With long-haired cats, however, the coat frequently becomes matted, and if this condition is neglected the mats become most difficult to disentangle. When not very severe they can be partly broken up by working with the fingers, completing the task with a metal comb. When the matted state is of long standing more comprehensive treatment is required. A sharp-pointed instrument—such as the blade of a pair of scissors—should be used to puncture the mat, which should then be gently torn to pieces. To restore a badly-tangled coat to normal is a long job requiring a great deal of patience, and a cat will not stand the rigorous grooming necessary for any length of time. Therefore a little should be done on each occasion, but the task completed as soon as possible because, naturally, the longer the tangles are left the worse they become.
Occasionally, in cases of long-standing neglect, it is almost impossible to comb out the tangles without hurting the cat and causing it to struggle. In such cases it is best to take the cat to a Veterinary Surgeon who can give a light anaesthetic, preferably ether, and comb out the matted fur whilst the animal is under the anaesthetic.
To keep the coats of long-haired cats in perfect condition they should be well powdered with Sherley’s Dry Cleaning Powder at least every other day. The Powder should be sprinkled freely over the coat and well worked in with the hands. The coat should then be well brushed and combed, and if this care is given regularly the coat will never become matted. Prevention in this case is certainly better than cure.
When the coat has lost its shine and appears dull, with a rather scurfy skin, a little of Sherley’s Coatacine should be sprinkled over the hair and the cat well groomed with a rather soft brush. This treatment will greatly improve the appearance of the coat, and in all such cases it is advisable to give a dose of worm medicine and a course of Sherley’s Cooling Powders for Cats.
Cats, like other animals, shed their coat to a certain extent in the spring, the loss of fur being particularly noticeable on the head just in front of the ears. At this time a course of Sherley’s Cat Condition Powders is useful.
Some cats, particularly white-coated ones, seem to shed their coat to a certain extent all the year round. In these cases the use of Sherley’s Coatacine tends to fix the coat, but the cat should also be well groomed each morning.
The coats of all cats may be kept clean by the use of Sherley’s Dry Cleaner Block or Dry Cleaning Powder. The former preparation is also particularly useful for the final grooming before showing a cat with a white or light coloured coat.
EYES.
Kittens should open their eyes on the ninth or tenth day after birth. There is usually no trouble in this respect, but occasionally it seems that the eyelids will not separate properly and there is a little mattery discharge at the inner corner of the eyelids; in such cases foment the eyes with hot boracic lotion made by dissolving a level teaspoonful of boracic crystals in a pint of hot water applied with lint cut into 1 1/2 in squares which should be used on one occasion only and immediately discarded. A little of Sherley’s Golden Eye Ointment should then be gently rubbed along the edges of the eyelids.
NAILS.
It is seldom necessary to cut the nails of a cat, but some cats, especially the Siamese, do endless mischief to the leather covers of chairs, etc., if their nails are not shortened. It is quite a simple matter to cut the nails, as it is only necessary to remove just the points. It can be done with an ordinary pair of nail scissors, but with these there is some risk of splitting the nails; there is no danger of doing this, however, with Sherley’s Circular Nail Cutters, which are made specially for cutting the nails of cats and small dogs.
Sherley’s Circular Nail Cutters.
TEETHING.
Kittens commence to get their first or milk teeth when about five weeks old, and usually about the eighth week a full set of these teeth is well up. The set consists of twelve incisors, or front teeth, four tusks or canines,