Seasonal Preserves
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About this ebook
The traditional art of preserving is enjoying renewed popularity and this timely book includes everything both aspiring and experienced preservers need to know to get perfect results every time. Following detailed advice on choosing the right ingredients and equipment, the 100 delicious sweet and savoury recipes cover every kind of preserve for every time of year, from jams, pickles and chutneys to sauces, cheeses and cordials. The scrumptious recipes include traditional preserves such as Gooseberry and Elderflower Jam, Damson Cheese and Chilli Tomato Chutney as well as the more adventurous Oven Dried Tomatoes in Fennel Oil, Cherry and Almond Ratafia and Syrupy Poached Kumquats. From vodka and gin to curds and butters, there really is something here for everyone.
Joanna Farrow
JOANNA FARROW is an experienced food writer and food stylist. She is the author of dozens of cookbooks on subjects ranging from fish and shellfish to children's cookery, cakes, and chocolate. Joanna worked as Deputy Cookery Editor for both BBC Vegetarian Good Food and Prima and is a regular contributor to many other magazines, including Woman & Home, Best, House Beautiful, You, Men's Fitness, and Ready Steady Cook.
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Seasonal Preserves - Joanna Farrow
Seasonal
PRESERVES
Seasonal
PRESERVES
Joanna Farrow
Contents
Introduction
Types of preserves
Equipment
Techniques
Spring
Spiced rhubarb and apple jam
Pineapple and stem ginger conserve
Lemon curd
Apple, cider and rhubarb butter
Lime and ginger curd
Preserved lemons
Chilli, lime and vodka jelly
Tarragon vinegar
Grape, apple and rosemary jelly
Herb oil
Sweet dill mustard
Spicy banana and date chutney
Caramelized red onion chutney
Aromatic salt
Hot harissa sauce
Yogurt cheese in flavoured oil
Coconut, lime and chilli relish
Lemon vodka
Fresh limeade
Pink ginger cordial
Summer
Blueberry and vanilla jam
Honeyed apricots
Strawberry jam
Raspberry jam
Apricot jam
Peach and redcurrant jam
Gooseberry and elderflower jam
Blackcurrant jam
Redcurrant jelly
Soft fruit and lavender jelly
Cherry and orange conserve
Rose petal and apple conserve
Peach and apple jelly
Saffron and apricot jelly
Soft fruit and drambuie butter
Raspberry and mint curd
Summer fruits in mulled rosé
Olives marinated in provençal oil
Green olive and peppercorn sauce
Courgettes in walnut oil
Cucumber, dill and mustard pickle
Elderflower cordial
Soft fruit cordial
Cherry and almond ratafia
Raspberry vinegar
Autumn
Plum jam
Blackberry and apple jam
Bramble jelly
Crab apple jelly
Mulled plum jelly
Quince jelly
Minted apple jelly
Pear, lemon and cardamom marmalade
Tomato marmalade
Simple apple chutney
Damson cheese
Chilli tomato chutney
Pumpkin and ginger chutney
Moroccan spiced plum chutney
Aubergine, walnut and smoked garlic chutney
Red pepper and coriander relish
Jalapeño chilli and corn relish
Pickled beetroot and red cabbage
Pickled garden vegetables
Whole pickled chillies
Vanilla pickled plums
Baby onions in balsamic vinegar
Saffron pickled pears
Roasted peppers in cider vinegar
Oven-dried tomatoes in fennel oil
Smokey barbecue sauce
Tomato ketchup
Chinese plum sauce
Bramble cassis
Mulberry wine
Winter
Chestnut conserve
Cranberry jelly with winter spices
Tangerine jelly with star anise
Spiced pomegranate jelly
Ruby orange marmalade
Seville orange marmalade
Orange, sultana and whisky marmalade
Melon and grapefruit marmalade
Pink grapefruit marmalade
Pineapple cheese
Passionfruit curd
Spiced cranberry and pear cheese
Sweet pickled cranberries
Hot mango chutney
Mostarda
Indian lime pickle
Hazelnuts in caramel
Pecans in maple syrup
Marsala steeped raisins
Almond and amaretti mincemeat
Sloe gin
Cranberry and apple mincemeat
Clementines in brandied caramel
Figs in spiced syrup
Index
Introduction
As a form of cooking, preserving is so unlike any other. Instead of labouring in the kitchen to provide regular meals – which are gone in ten minutes – preserving has quite the opposite outcome. Jars, pots and bottles are filled with tempting treats that will last right through the year, providing a feast of flavours for topping toast, filling cakes, spooning over snacks or simply dipping into whenever you get the urge. This is why preserving is one of my favourite forms of cooking and something I never tire of. I also love using seasonal produce, both from the garden and those I buy when at their best, so I can be sure of their good provenance and therefore good results! Even better is the fun of foraging for free food. Gathering elderflower heads for cordial and brambles for jelly are two of my therapeutic seasonal rituals. Making preserves has a reputation for being at the least slightly tricky and time consuming, but this isn’t the case. Boiling up fruit with sugar to make jam is really not difficult, and throwing a selection of vegetables into a pan for chutney is about as simple as it gets. The recipes in this book provide a selection of both classic and more innovative recipes for jams, jellies, marmalades, chutneys and other less obvious preserves. Generally, they make manageable quantities too. No one, after all, wants to live on the same flavour marmalade for years! If you do get carried away on the preserve trail, share them out or give as presents. Any foodie friend would no doubt prefer a personalized, designer-potted preserve to a mass-produced box of chocolates.
types of preserves
The seasonal recipes you will find on the following pages include the classic preserves, such as jams and chutneys, as well as some more unusual oils, vinegars and fruits in syrup.
jams The jams in this book range from the classic favourite Strawberry (page 50) to the less conventional Spiced Rhubarb and Apple (page 21) and Blueberry and Vanilla (page 49). Mid- to late summer is traditional jam-making season and the aroma of soft summer fruits, bubbling away in their syrupy juices, is certainly one of the best. Conserves are a type of jam in which larger pieces of fruit are suspended in a sweet syrup. They don’t set as firmly as jams, and their syrupy juices will no doubt run all over the plate of whatever they’re accompanying. Use them more as a fabulous topping for ice cream, sponge cakes or creamy yogurt.
jellies Of all the homemade preserves, it’s the jellies that I find most absorbing to make, possibly due to their gorgeous colours, which range from the palest pastels to deep burgundy reds. Some cooks might be put off making jellies because of the need to strain them for several hours (or overnight if made late in the day), but straining really is so easy if you use the simple method on page 10. Even easier is the fact that there’s so little fruit preparation beforehand; cores, stalks, skins, pips and stones are all thrown in the pan for the initial cooking and only larger fruits need a rough chopping first.
marmalades Marmalades generally require a bit more preparation than other preserves. Cut the shreds as finely or as thickly as you prefer – using a food processor is a quick and easy way of finely chopping the peel if you don’t like a proper ‘shredded’ marmalade. One watchpoint is the consistency of the cooked peel before adding any sugar. A piece of softened peel, lifted from the pan, should be soft and fall apart between your fingers. Once the sugar is added the peel won’t soften any more and the cooked shreds will have a hard, chewy texture.
fruit curds and cheeses A tangy fruit curd is another preserve that can readily be bought but simply doesn’t have the vibrant flavour of a homemade one. Fruit ‘cheeses’ bear no relation to dairy produce but are instead, a preserve made by cooking fresh fruits to a thick, pulpy paste. Sweetened and flavoured with spices, or simply left plain, they make a great addition to the cheeseboard in a similar vane to Membrillo, the Spanish quince cheese served with tapas. Fruit ‘butters’ have a softer consistency than fruit cheeses and are served as you would jam.
chutneys and relishes Chutneys and relishes can be made at any time of year, but the abundant supplies of fruit and vegetables in late summer makes this the most practical time for potting up supplies to take you through the winter. Most chutneys are best left for a couple of weeks before use to let their flavours mingle and mellow and from then on will keep well, and taste good, almost until you’re ready to make the next batch. Relishes are made in a similar way but are not cooked to such a pulpy consistency. Fresh tasting and with a crunchier texture, they have a shorter storage time of up to four months.
pickles Like chutneys, pickles have a high vinegar content, which needs to mellow for several weeks before use or the flavour can be a bit harsh. Vegetable pickles such as Cucumber, Dill and Mustard (page 74) are great with a slice of chunky bread and wedge of cheese, or smoked fish or cold meats. Sweet pickled fruits such as Vanilla Pickled Plums (page 113) or Saffron Pickled Pears (page 114) are lovely, chopped and scattered over salads, their sweet syrupy juices added to dressings and sauces.
sauces, oils, vinegars and seasonings The recipes here are a selection of ideas from savoury sauces to preserved vegetables, mustard and homemade cheese, giving a little taster of the vast scope of preserves that can be made, effortlessly and absorbingly, at home.
mincemeat and fruits in syrup Bottling fruits in syrup is such a great way of extending the relatively short season of some of our favourite fruits, and guarantees a supply of effortless desserts for months ahead. For casual suppers, present the fruits in their jars for spooning over whipped or clotted cream, mascarpone, vanilla ice cream and maybe some dessert biscuits to add crunch and texture. Mincemeats are just about the easiest preserve of all and the two in this book are