Kefalonia: An Insider's Guide

Myrtos

Kefalonia - key facts & figures:

Size: 780 km2

Resident population: 35,801 (2011 Census)

Population density: 45.52 / km2 (2011 Census)

Highest mountain: Ainos, 1628 metres

Capital: Argostoli, 38.1790 N , 20.4875 E

Language: Greek. English widely spoken

Currency: Euro

Kefalonia still has the charm of an undiscovered gem and perhaps that's why it's gathering an international appeal. Spring is a lovely time to see the island at its freshest and 'as it is'. The weather can still be a little unpredictable, many tavernas will still be closed for winter, tours won't be running yet and the bus service very limited. Nevertheless, it can be an ideal time for exploring Kefalonia’s roads and off-road tracks. Refreshed by the winter rain, the grass is green and the fields and hedgerows abundant with colourful flowers that have burst into life to delight the island as it slowly re-awakens from its slumber.

May can be an ideal time to visit as the tavernas and beaches are uncrowded, the pace unhurried. About once every four or five years Helios, the Greek sun-god, is a little late arriving and May can be a little less sunny than usual with cool evenings and nights, but usually May is pleasantly warm by day and refreshingly cool of an evening.

Come June the weather settles down and more worshippers of Helios are following his chariot across the sky to pay homage on Greece's glorious beaches. Kefalonia is no exception: down on the south coast lie the long, sandy beaches of Skala, Lassi and Xi while dotted between are less-known or smaller - but equally glorious - beaches. Secluded coves lay hidden around the island waiting for you to discover them.

Definitely discovered is Myrtos Bay, one of the most spectacular beach views in the world. A deep green mountain drops dramatically down to a wide white beach where the ever-changing blue hues of the Mediterranean slowly wash ashore while, in the background, the castle-topped almost-island of Assos clings to Kefalonia by a narrow strip of low land where sits the tranquil hamlet, many of its old buildings still standing. Little ever happens in Assos - and it’s so relaxing to sit sipping a refreshing drink while watching it not happen.

Fiskardo, long discovered by the yacht set and visited by the rich and famous, offers a mix of quaint old-world charm and luxurious grace for those who seek it, while inland the heights of Mount Aenos and the cavernous depths of Drogarati and Melissani are among the varied delights awaiting those who like to explore and get the most out of their holiday…and Ithaka, Levkas and Zakynthos are but a pleasant cruise away - look out for the dolphins!

In July and August sleepy villages, where time seems to stand still, suddenly burst into life, adding their own colour and gaiety to the natural beauty of the island: this is festival season and almost every evening there will be a festival somewhere on the island. Days tend to be long and the nights short as the festivals usually start around 21:00 and really come to life around 23:00 - around 02:00 the following morning people will start drifting off to their beds.

Although the festivals are part of Greece's long tradition and culture, visitors are quite welcome to join in the festivities - which makes Kefalonia an ideal destination for mature- minded people who can really appreciate all it has to offer.

Just bear in mind that, during high summer, the temperature can often top 40C in the shade during the day and the nights remain warm, so a room with air-conditioning, or a bed-side fan, is a real bonus.

September is a very popular month with the British, the days are again pleasantly warm, the nights pleasantly cool - and the kids are back at school. With luck, the summer draught will end sometime during September or October, when we might be blessed with a thunderstorm followed by light, warm rain on three consecutive days.

October is very quiet, the weather still pleasant but the nights are drawing in: ideal for long, quiet, romantic evenings in an uncrowded sea-front taverna.

While Corfu to the north, and Zakynthos to the south, have a reputation as popular 'party' islands, Kefalonia retains an aura of authenticity and is most suited to visitors able to appreciate the difference. You might find a café serving English food but Kefalonia remains a McDonalds-free zone. Greek food has a high reputation and Kefalonia, being very popular with Greek visitors, offers the traditional favourites as well as tasty local specialities, e.g. kreatopita (meat pie).

Greek wine complements Greek cuisine perfectly and Robola, a dry white wine unique to Kefalonia, has such a good reputation among wine connoisseurs that it's exported around the world. Much less known is the rather good red wine produced on the Palliki peninsular. Both available very inexpensively 'from the barrel' with your meal. Enjoy!

Accommodation

Traditionally, accommodation in Greece is fairly basic, having evolved from 'village rooms' in private houses, hence very similar to the owner's own accommodation. This is largely still true of the smaller, family run, accommodation available today. For those who desire it, the more recent and larger hotels offer a higher level of amenities, albeit at a higher price.

Self-catering accommodation

This is the most popular and widely-available type of holiday accommodation. A studio for two will usually consist of a single room with twin (i.e. two single) beds and a kitchenette with a small en-suite room comprising the toilet, wash-basin and shower. A studio for three will accommodate an extra bed, which may be a sofa-bed or camp bed. An apartment will be very similar to a studio but with an attached bedroom. Double beds are rare in tourist accommodation and, when it's hot, that's something to be grateful for.

For the vast majority of people who visit Greece, Greek food is one of the attractions and is best enjoyed by sampling the local tavernas. Thus the 'self catering' kitchen facilities are likely to be fairly basic, usually a sink unit with drainer, drawer and cupboard, a two-ring electric cooker and a fridge. Kitchens utensils are likely to consist of a large pan, a frying pan (maybe) and a small pan, which is actually the Greek kettle, or 'briki', used for making Greek coffee. It can also be used for making 'British' tea.

As the term implies, in self-catering accommodation you'll need to supply your own consumables, e.g. washing-up liquid, etc. - all available locally.

If your studio/apartment has a balcony or terrace you're likely to find a table and chairs there, otherwise these will be in the main room. You may get an electric kettle / toaster / grill oven, etc, but don't expect it - and much less a microwave - unless it's in the brochure description.

Showers are often hand-held and shower curtains are traditionally considered unhygienic. Water is scarce and electricity expensive in Greece and you may find that the water is heated by solar power, although these days most accommodation has mains back-up. Nonetheless, you might find the temperature and pressure are lower between the hours of 17:00-19:00 as this is when most people tend to shower.

On arrival you should find a toilet roll in the shower room, in self-catering accommodation you replace these yourself as and when needed. Don't forget - put used toilet paper in the bin provided, not down the toilet. The maid will empty the bin on her visits, or you can empty it yourself into one of the nearby wheelie-bins.

Air-conditioning may be available and may be included in the price or may be an optional extra, payable locally. Maid service and linen change is likely to be twice a week, once on the day you arrive and then 3-4 days later. This will be specified in the brochure description for the accommodation so, if you're fussy about such things, make sure to check before you book.

Hotel rooms

Hotel rooms and suites tend to be very similar to self-catering rooms but without any kitchen facilities. There may be a fridge in your room although this may be payable locally if you want to use it (as not everyone will). Similarly, air-conditioning, where available, may be included in the price but is often an optional extra, payable locally. Items such as toilet rolls will normally be supplied by the hotel, maid service and linen change may be more frequent than in self-catering accommodation - as always, check the brochure before you book.

Villas

Villas usually offer just about everything you'd find in a private house, including television and DVD/stereo system (but may not include a telephone and computer, so internet access may not be available) and are invariably self-catering. Maid service between 3-7 days a week. As always, check before you book.

Notes:

While you are occupying the accommodation you are responsible for the contents. If you do break or lose anything please inform the owner, as soon as possible, so that a replacement can be obtained. Take great care of the key as these can be difficult to obtain, necessitating a journey to Argostoli.

Activities

Relaxing on the beach all day is pretty idyllic but for those who want to get the most out of their stay on Kefalonia and enjoy a more individual holiday experience there's a variety of options, including:

4x4 Explore

Get off the tourist trail without getting lost up a mountain, really explore Kefalonian with an experienced local driver/guide in your personal 'jeep safari': ancient ruins, hidden caves, rare wildlife - all on your doorstep but a million miles away from most tourists.

Birding / botany

Guided explorations to explore the natural environment, focused on your interests.

Canyoning / caving

Really explore hidden Kefalonia, whatever your experience / fitness level.

Diving

There are some good dive opportunities on and around Kefalonia, including organised diving to the wreck of HMS Perseus and Melissani Lake (although booking well in advance is necessary for those).

Riding

One hour treks to seven-day holidays in the beautiful Kefalonian countryside on sturdy, well natured and well cared for horses.

Sea kayaking

Sea kayaking tours along various stretches of the Kefalonian coast. Suitable for all levels of experience, including complete novices, includes equipment, instruction, etc.

Advice for visitors

Hopefully none of this will affect you. However, a few minutes spent before departure and shortly after arrival may save time, money and distress as any of these can occur:

Accidents & Emergencies

Accidents and emergencies sometimes happen, both at home and overseas. Before you depart, leave your contact details - name of tour company (if any), airline, where you're staying - with a friend or relative. In resort, make a note of essential phone numbers - the local medical centre / doctor, taxi drivers and, if you're on a package holiday, the tour company's emergency phone number. If you're taking a mobile phone on holiday ensure you have enough credit and take the battery charger. Otherwise, buy a 'phone card and know where the nearest phones are. If you / one of your party are ill / have an accident, be sure to inform the tour company, if on a package holiday. (see also: Doctors / Health & Safety)

Credit Cards

Make a note of their numbers and keep this separate from the cards. If you have more than one, only carry one and leave the other/s in a secure place. Keep a note of the number to contact should they part company from you.

Drugs & medicines

Prescription drugs: Generally, it's best to keep all valuables in your room. If you are taking medication and there is any chance that you may be ill while out, carry enough medication with you, plus a prescription, or at least the name of the medication. Note: Although available in the UK, codeine is an opiate. It's actually illegal to bring it in to the country (although Customs are a little flexible with tourists) and it's illegal for pharmacists in Greece to dispense it without a prescription. If necessary, the local doctor will be able to prescribe codeine, or an alternative.

Illegal substances: In Greece, penalties are severe for foreigners who use or traffic illegal substances or who associate with traffickers.

European Health Insurance Card - EHIC

See your European Health Insurance Card for details of how the scheme operates. Should you need medical assistance it may be helpful to have this with you, although your holiday insurance will likely be more useful.

Insurance

If you need any medical treatment it may be useful to have this with you at the time you see the doctor, although local doctors may not have the