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    European Civil and Military Clothing
    European Civil and Military Clothing
    European Civil and Military Clothing
    Ebook228 pages36 minutes

    European Civil and Military Clothing

    By Sir Frederic Stibbert

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    About this ebook

    A wealthy Anglo-Italian connoisseur devoted to the nineteenth-century struggle for Italian unification, Frederick Stibbert amassed an extensive collection of arms, armor, and costume — which today can be found in the Tuscan museum bearing his name. During the years in which he built up the museum's collection, he examined countless illuminated manuscripts, ancient documents, frescoes, paintings, and other records of armor and dress.
    The illustrations in this book, based on exceptional drawings by Stibbert himself and engraved by leading craftsmen of the day, reveal a remarkable panorama of European costume history. The volume contains 217 handsome plates depicting nearly 1,000 individual figures and their accessories, all scrupulously accurate and rendered in meticulous detail. Here are excellent illustrations of priests, warriors, Roman citizens, and women of ancient Britain; the German Emperor Otto and his wife; French monarchs and Scottish kings; jousting English knights of the thirteenth century; fifteenth-century Italian gentlewomen; elaborately coiffed ladies from the court of Versailles; and much more. Captions give the origins of the armor and dress, the sources of the drawings, precise descriptions of each item represented, and explanations of the function and manner of wearing armor.
    This extraordinary work has wide appeal: fashion historians will be attracted by its scrupulous accuracy and the authenticity of the garments; the royalty-free illustrations will be prized by artists and illustrators; and the handsome engravings and informative captions will entertain and instruct readers interested in the history of costume.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherDover Publications
    Release dateFeb 23, 2015
    ISBN9780486162201
    European Civil and Military Clothing

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      European Civil and Military Clothing - Sir Frederic Stibbert

      Bibliography

      PREFACE

      FREDERICK STIBBERT: HIS LIFE AND WORK

      On the opening page of an album of watercolor drawings representing sixteenth-century knights and princesses is the following inscription: F. Stibbert/Original watercolor drawings for his Costume book/1868. Frederick Stibbert (1838–1906) inherited the family fortune in 1859, when he came of age (his father died when he was only four), and he started collecting immediately. The brief comment in his sketchbook, written a few years later, clearly tells us that the intention of compiling a history of costume was at the back of his mind from the very beginning. Indeed, it was probably the inspiration for most of the objects that he was to acquire during the next fifty years.

      The project of the history remained vivid throughout his life, as witnessed by the sketchbooks that he gradually filled with drawings drawn from paintings, tomb slabs, monumental sculptures, etc. From 1877 onward he started having the copper plates engraved. He employed three well-known engravers: the Neapolitan Leonardo de Vegni, and from 1887 the Genoese Filippo Livy and Vincenzo Stanghi from Florence. A note not yet engraved/ 1899/F.S., added in pencil to the above quotation, indicates that as late as 1899 this preparatory work had not yet been completed. In his will Stibbert stipulated that his heir, Count Roberto Pandolfini, was to arrange for the publication, and he left 10,000 lire (about $1 million in today’s money) specifically for this purpose. In 1914 the first edition of Abite e Fogge Civili e Militari (150 copies) was printed by the Istituto Italiano d’Arti Grafiche in Bergamo. By 1937 these were sold out. After the Second World War the local bank, Cassa di Risparmio della Toscana, had a facsimile version made for private distribution. And somewhere along the line an English version was published in the United States.

      For many years Stibbert’s history, in any language, has been out of print, and it is with great pleasure that the Stibbert Museum greets the present republication. It is not only a tribute to the extraordinary man who was the founder of the museum that bears his name, it is also the surest way to understand the moving spirit of this great collector. Through this volume we apprehend the reason for the long series of sixteenth-century portraits of the Spanish royal family to be found in the museum; the vast collection of arms and armor from Europe, Japan, and the Islamic world; the numerous costume prints and illustrated books in the library; and the garments themselves, including rare examples of Elizabethan doublets and sixteenth-century Venetian shoes. The museum may seem heterogeneous and eclectic at first sight, but there was a unifying vision behind the 56,000 objects that Stibbert left to the city of Florence. This book is the visual expression of his deep interest in the way people moved, dressed, and lived—anywhere, at any time.

      Frederick Stibbert was born in Florence, and died there. His father had been a colonel in the Coldstream Guards, his grandfather governor-general of Bengal, India, whence the family fortune originated. His mother was Italian, and it was her villa on the Montughi hill that Frederick, or Federigo, transformed into his museum. Situated in the midst of its own park, surrounded by the olive groves and vineyards of its own farm, it is still a verdant oasis only ten minutes outside hectic Florence. As his collection grew, Stibbert bought an adjacent villa and built a great Knights’ Hall to connect the two houses. He further commissioned a façade to serve as the unifying factor of all three elements, and added the large ballroom. His mother’s garden was a typical formal Italian giardino that Stibbert turned into a romantic English park, with temples, loggias, cascades, and a little lake where he could boat in the summer.

      Though deeply attached to his mother and her native Tuscany, Stibbert was educated in England, at Harrow and later Cambridge, and his years in England as well as the friends he made there

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