Rehoboth Beach: A History of Surf & Sand
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About this ebook
Memories of lost pirates' treasure, daring rescues off the coast and prowling German U-boats linger amidst the dunes and sea grass of Rehoboth Beach.
From modest beginnings as a religious retreat, the town has survived fierce storms and gales to blossom into a vibrant community and the nation's summer capital. Though today the town's population is in decline on par with many small towns, but during the summer months, this little Delaware community can expect as many as 25,000 tourists soaking up the sun and playing in the surf. With spirit and a touch of wry humor, Delmarva journalist Michael Morgan regales his audience with tales of intrepid explorers, brave guardians of the beach and ever-evolving trends in swimwear. Morgan invites his readers beyond the boardwalk to catch a glimpse of the true Rehoboth Beach.
Michael Morgan
Michael Morgan is seminary musician for Columbia Theological Seminary and organist at Central Presbyterian Church in Atlanta. He is also a Psalm scholar and owns one of the largest collections of English Bibles in the country.
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Rehoboth Beach - Michael Morgan
Author
PREFACE
Most visitors to Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, enjoy the sun, sand, surf, boardwalk and other amusements that are found in many seaside resorts. Rehoboth, however, has a rich history that began with the Native Americans who spent their summers here and includes the religious leaders who established the resort, the boom years of the 1920s and the dark times of World War II. There is much to be found in this brief history of the town that was once regarded as the Nation’s Summer Capital.
This book would not have been possible without the assistance of the kind folks who toil in the libraries, archives and museums of Delaware. In particular, I would like to thank Randy L. Goss at the Delaware Public Archives and Iris Snyder at the University of Delaware for their efforts in obtaining some of the illustrations for this book. I would also like to thank Nancy Alexander, executive director of the Rehoboth Beach Museum, for her efforts in obtaining images from the museum’s collection. I would also like to thank my son, Tom, for his unflagging efforts in obtaining vintage images, as well as for taking a number of photographs for this book.
In addition, I would like to thank Hannah Cassilly at The History Press for her untiring support in this project. I would like to thank Mike Mills, Terry Plowman, Bruce Pringle, Ashley Dawson, Laren Hughes-Hall and the other editors of the Delaware Coast Press and the Wave who have supported the Delaware Diary
and the Sussex Journal
for the past two decades. Writing two weekly columns has put me in touch with numerous readers who have shared their knowledge of Rehoboth Beach with me.
Finally, I would like to thank my wife, Madelyn, for constant editorial advice and support. She read every word in this book numerous times and spent countless hours correcting my spelling, punctuation and grammar. Without her help, this book would not have been possible. Whatever errors remain are mine.
CHAPTER 1
IN THE BEGINNING
FIRST VACATIONERS
Long before Europeans arrived on the Delaware coast, Native Americans vacationed at Rehoboth. Five centuries ago, scores of Native American communities were scattered about the Delmarva Peninsula. Between the high dunes of Cape Henlopen and the head of Rehoboth Bay, the mainland ran all the way to the surf. Several freshwater ponds punctuated this narrow stretch of woodland and beach. The bay and ponds provided oysters, fish and water. The ocean generated cool sea breezes, and during the hot summer months, the Native Americans left their permanent inland homes to vacation at the beach.
The Native Americans of Delmarva had no wheeled vehicles or horses, and they arrived at the beach on foot. About five hundred feet from the beach, there was a level area that ran parallel to the coast. Except for a low ridge of sand hills that divided the area in half, the level band of ground ran for about three quarters of a mile before it ended a little north of Rehoboth Bay. The Indians may have been Lenapes, who dominated the area north of Cape Henlopen, or they may have been Nanticokes, who lived between the coast and the river that bears their name. They set up bark huts that would serve as their homes during summer encampment on that strip of land that paralleled the beach.
Into the waters of Rehoboth Bay, the Native Americans would launch their dugout canoes. After a suitable tree had been felled and the branches removed, the Native Americans used shells to scrape off the tree trunk’s bark to create a smooth log. Gum and resin were spread on top of the log and ignited. After the fire had charred the top of the log, the burned wood was scraped off. By alternately burning and scraping, the center area was hollowed out to create a solid wood canoe that was stable, sturdy and could be easily launched.
Native Americans camped near the head of Rehoboth Bay long before the Europeans arrived. Diorama, Nanticoke Indian Museum, Millsboro, Delaware. Photo by Michael Morgan.
After their huts were erected and their canoes ready for a day of fishing on Rehoboth Bay, the Native Americans settled down for a quiet vacation at the beach. With fish and oysters readily available in the nearby waters and game abounding in the surrounding forest, the Native Americans feasted on oysters, clams, crabs, turtles, fish and a variety of ducks, geese and other wildfowl. Cooked on open fires near their huts, the summer feasts led to an accumulation of shells, bones and other debris that the Native Americans swept into small conical mounds before they returned to their permanent homes in the interior of the Delmarva Peninsula.
The summer visits by the Native Americans went uninterrupted for many years. Out beyond the breaking surf, the ocean seemed endless; but one day, the white sails of vessels far larger than the familiar dugout canoes would be seen making their way along the horizon.
EXPLORERS ALONG THE COAST
The Native Americans at the head of Rehoboth Bay were probably enjoying their usual summer visit to the beach when Christopher Columbus began his epic voyage to America. After Columbus returned to Spain, the news of his discoveries spread across Europe, and scores of captains headed westward into the Atlantic in search of new lands. Most of these daring explorers were well aware of the dangers of sailing in uncharted waters, and it was not at all reassuring that on Christmas Day 1492 the Santa Maria struck a reef and sank off Hispaniola. Columbus returned to Europe on one of his other three ships, but a European explorer who sailed the North American coast in the sixteenth century was well advised to remain in deep waters. This was advice that Giovanni da Verrazzano was determined to heed.
Verrazzano was born in Florence in the late fifteenth century, when Italian captains had conquered the Mediterranean Sea and began to search for an all-water route to the Orient. When Christopher Columbus made his electrifying voyage in 1492, he was convinced that the islands of the West Indies lay near the coast of Asia. For decades following the first European contact with the New World, explorers continued to probe North, South and Central America in hopes of finding a water route to the lucrative markets of the Far East.
Verrazzano’s parents were associated with the silk merchants of southern France. Buoyed by his family’s fortune, he was educated in France, and he developed into a capable navigator. In 1524, Verrazzano set sail aboard a small ship, La Dauphine, to continue the search for the elusive water route around America. When Verrazzano reached the coast of the Delmarva Peninsula, the explorer was determined that La Dauphine would not meet the same fate as the Santa Maria. As he sailed past the site of Rehoboth Beach, Verrazzano was so far from the coast that he failed to spot the entrance to Delaware Bay. His ship, however, would have been visible to any Native Americans on the beach near Rehoboth. After he continued northward, the cautious explorer entered the mouth of the Hudson River before he turned La Dauphine eastward and headed home.
A monument to the cautious Verrazzano stands at the foot of Olive Avenue. Photo by Tom Morgan.
Verrazzano’s inability to find a water passage to the East cooled European interest in North America. It was not until 1609 that Henry Hudson became the first documented European to sail around Cape Henlopen and enter the bay. Verrazzano’s voyage along the coast was a significant step in the exploration of North America. And when a monument to the explorer was recently dedicated at Olive Avenue and the boardwalk in Rehoboth Beach, he had finally made his way to the Delaware shore.
CAPTAIN AVERY BUILDS A HOME
Other mariners followed Henry Hudson’s short foray into Delaware Bay, and by the middle of the seventeenth century, a small Dutch and Swedish settlement had been established at Lewes, just west of Cape Henlopen. In 1674, these Dutch and Swedish colonists who had settled near the mouth of the Delaware Bay were too occupied with clearing the land, producing enough food for the next winter and fending off attacks by pirates to be concerned with the repercussions of European politics. For many years, the small settlement on Lewes Creek was batted about in a game of political ping-pong as ownership of the south shore of Delaware Bay passed from Holland to Sweden, back to Holland and finally to England.
As part of the Treaty of Westminster that ended a war between England and Holland, the Dutch colonies in North America were transferred to English rule. Control of the Dutch settlements along the Hudson and Delaware Rivers passed to the Duke of York, brother of the king of England, and the duke appointed Edmund Andros as the governor of his new American possessions. Andros sought to clarify the southern boundary of the colony, and he took steps to protect the settlers against attacks by their Maryland neighbors. In 1673, three dozen armed Marylanders burned Lewes to the ground. Although the Duke of York and Lord Baltimore had agreed that the southern boundary of the Delaware colony was at Cape Henlopen, Andros began to enlarge the duke’s holdings by giving English colonists grants of land on the shores of the Indian River and Rehoboth Bay. The English settlers established farms on the land granted to them by Andros in the name of the Duke of York, and their presence deterred the Marylanders from making direct attacks on the Delaware settlements. One such settler was Captain John Avery.
When Avery settled on the Delaware coast, he may have already decided that his seafaring days were over. Avery established a home on 350 acres of land on the north shore of Rehoboth Bay near King’s Creek, west of the freshwater ponds that lined the coast. It was also near the area where Native Americans had often camped during the summer to fish and to enjoy the cool ocean breezes. The retired mariner dubbed his new home Avery’s Rest. John Avery, however, had not abandoned all of his sailor’s ways.
When the first European settlers arrived in Sussex County in the seventeenth century, the colonists built homes that were small, unrefined structures that barely protected the occupants from the elements. Avery and other coastal colonists felled trees with axes and saws and then cut logs into planks using broad axes and two-man pitsaws, where one stood on top