Making Hats out of Felt - Selected Articles on Millinery
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Making Hats out of Felt - Selected Articles on Millinery - Read Books Ltd.
FELT
Nature of Felt.
A true felt is a fabric not starting from any woven structure but produced from a mass of fibres which by various processes are enmeshed and compressed more and more tightly together to form a sound fabric. It can be stretched equally in any direction. Having regard to the wide variety of millinery shapes this is an obvious advantage.
(a) Fur Felt is made of fibres from the fur-bearing animals, the commonest hitherto being of wild and tame rabbits. The wild rabbit gives the finer felt quality, but in former years speciality furs from, for example, the beaver, were used for special felt qualities. Of the fur on the skin, the finest quality comes from the centre of the back in the case of the rabbit. In the case of speciality furs from the water animals, the finest quality are from the belly.
(b) Wool Felt is made from sheep’s wool, the best qualities coming, of course, from the finest quality wools. Millinery felts, for example, are all made from Merino sheep giving the finest of wool qualities.
The fur felt is of a higher standard than the wool felt. It is, of course, a more expensive article by reason of the cost of raw materials and of processing. Normally the markets for wool felts and fur felts are separately defined, and the choice of the market desired indicates which type of felt is to be employed.
EQUIPMENT FOR BASIC WOODEN BLOCKS
1. Skull crown.
2. Dome crown.
3. Squarish top crown.
4. Bun
-shaped beret type of crown.
5. Large wooden brim.
6. Wooden roll.
7. Ribbon disc.
IRONS, ETC.
1. Egg iron.
2. Gas iron (flat).
3. Gas iron (mushroom).
4. Electric iron.
5. Electric hot block and stretcher.
6. Electric kettle.
WEAVING PLAIT WITH A BLUNT NEEDLE AND THICK THREAD ON RAFFIA
FELT HOODS AND PLAITS
1. Felt capeline.
2. Felt beret hood.
3. Shiny satin velour,
4. Melusine.
5. Peach bloom. 6 and 7. Real pedal. 8. Fancy chip.
9 and 10. Crinoline.
11 and 12. Coarse stra 13–16. Felt strips.
The felt hoods are finished
in a variety of ways and by different methods. The commonest gives a flat matt surface which may receive a suede finish, or it may have one of a number of pile finishes from the short pile peach bloom
finish to the long pile flammond
finish.
The hood-maker may be asked to supply a capeline
type of hood, which is, in effect, the bell shape but stretched round the edge to give a flat brim. In this form the hood looks roughly like a bowler hat with a wide, flat brim. In colour, the hoods are dyed to the seasonal shades, of which in latter years there have been an increasing number of light pastel colours, for which white fur has been employed.
Though in appearance the hood is a simple form, some fifteen processes are, in fact, needed in the conversion of the raw material to the finished hood shape.
Sleeves or Cones: These are woven on one piece and handled in a similar manner to felt hoods.
The Conversion of Hood into Hat.
Today millinery is mass-produced in very large quantities. This is due to a revolution in the shaping process which has taken place in the last decade.