Home-Made Sweets, Candies and Fudge - How to Make Them
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Home-Made Sweets, Candies and Fudge - How to Make Them - Ethelind Fearon
INDEX
INTRODUCTION
THE only drawback to home-made sweets is usually a lack of variety and a slightly savage aspect when compared with the commercial article. They commonly come in three kinds—fudge, stuffed dates and cocoanut kisses, and the first and last are liable to be of almost any size and shape. Though you can’t do much harm to a date, they are fairly foolproof and uniform.
Lack of variety is caused usually by fear of thermometers and the erroneous impression that anything involving sugar boiling is too terribly technical to attempt. One therefore essays only the uncooked sweet, such as fondant, marzipan in its most elementary forms, and a basic fudge which is pale if you catch it at the right moment and brown if not. In the latter event it may taste burnt, in which case you add strong coffee and pretend that you meant it that way.
Actually sugar boiling, with a thermometer to check the degrees, is a simple culinary operation of which the outcome is perfectly predictable and invariable (the different textures being produced by gradations of temperature) and the variety of finished productions is almost unlimited, ranging from spun sugar and satin pin-cushions to Pop-Corn Brittle and crystallized grapes.
As for the somewhat unkempt appearance of home-confectionery, a caramel-cutter, which is a kind of grid marking your mixture into uniform squares, and a few home-made moulds (see page 9), will amend that and at the same time make the work much quicker and easier.
The mere act of candy-making is a fascinating craft, and merely to watch the changing appearance and behaviour of a batch of sugar at various temperatures turns one into an eager scientist with a thirst for experiment. When the results are produced, turning the same quantity of sugar and water into such widely divergent results, purely by the action of much or little heat on sugar crystals, the thirst becomes more acute. And as a pastime it can be guaranteed never to pall or lose its thrill, from the first burnt saucepan and sticky toffee of youth to the dipped chocolates with fondant centres of the sophisticated creator.
That’s the kernel of the matter I think. You are a creative artist, and, as such, assured of joy and immortality which such as buy their candies from the corner shop can never know.
One is also assured of the absolute purity and integrity of one’s ingredients, which is extremely important in an age which tends to be increasingly synthetic. The result is also much cheaper to produce, being rarely more than two thirds that of the commercial variety and frequently much less.
Lastly you only make just what you want, and instead of buying Matinee Mixture because you like cooked marzipan (and giving away the jellies and fondants) you make your own marzipan and enjoy it and blow the jellies!
I can even show you how to get the coloured designs inside the marzipans, which is much easier than it looks.
Equipment is simple. A really heavy pan, preferably a copper jam-boiler. It must be big enough to hold twice the bulk you are likely to need, because boiling sugar bubbles expand alarmingly.
One smaller heavy pan about 2 pint size.
A double saucepan.
A sugar-boiling thermometer with the various stages
enumerated.
A marble or thick glass slab for mixing. A portion of old marble washstand is ideal and usually very easy to procure.
A wooden paddle
or spatula for stirring.
A sieve.
A metal spatula for turning.
Heavy glass or metal bars to put on the slab and make margins, to prevent toffee, etc., spreading too far. Known as candy bars.
A caramel cutter and small fancy cutters for sweets.
A few large and small bowls.
Oil for slab and utensils.
A gas stove (more easily controlled heat than electricity).
Heavy kitchen scissors.
Iron hook (coat hook will do) for candy pulling.
Small brush for moistening sides of pan (long handled).
Dipping tongs and fork for chocolate.
Candy dipper.
Caramel roller.
Cream rings, though not strictly essential, are useful for moulding fondant and creams.
A saccharometer (see page 88) is handy for checking crystallizing fluid.
Icing syringe and a few assorted nozzles.
Funnel for pouring and bone knitting needle with large head for stopping pouring.
Plenty of waxed paper and a little wafer paper.
Flavourings and colourings (preferably vegetable) the best only.
Airtight tins for storing boiled sweets.
Crystallizing tray—or baking tin about 4 inches deep, with a cake rack stood in it, on which fondants, marzipans, etc. are placed with another cake rack on top of them to prevent floating.
A bottle of burn lotion.
Precautions
See that ingredients (butter or nuts particularly) are not rancid.
Eggs should be as fresh as possible.
Gelatine and cream of tartar should be moistened with twice their bulk of cold water before adding to syrup.
Avoid too strong a colouring or flavouring, but in pulled candy the colour may be stronger than usual, because pulling makes it paler.
Be exact over weighing, measuring and boiling. About
right is not good enough when dealing with sugar. A tablespoonful is a level tablespoonful unless I say otherwise.
Thermometer should always be read at eye level or you will not get the correct reading. And when it says that the necessary degree has been reached, remove from heat instantly, in the case of caramel plunging the pan into a bowl of water, or it will have gone too far.
When using a small amount of sugar use a small saucepan, or the thermometer bulb will not be covered.
When breaking-in
a new thermometer put in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil and allow to cool in the water. If this is neglected the thing may do a bit of breaking on its own account. After testing plunge straight into warm water and wipe before using again.
Dissolve sugar in water over low slow flame, stirring occasionally, and only allow it to boil when sugar is demonstrably all melted, otherwise it will crystallize.
Don’t shake your pan in removing it or the sugar may crystallize.
During boiling of toffee, etc., brush round sides of pan frequently with your little pastry brush dipped in cold water or it will crystallize.
When boiling toffee, etc., do not have the flame roaring round sides of pan or it will crystallize.
If you add butter to sugar-and-water toffee all in one lump it will crystallize; it should go in a small piece at a time. It will therefore be seen that sugar, which arrives as crystals will depart in the same state at the lightest provocation.
If, on the other hand, fudge does not granulate, but remains a clear and solid toffee, you didn’t stir it enough while cooking. If you don’t let it cool