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    Model Sailing Yachts
    Model Sailing Yachts
    Model Sailing Yachts
    Ebook183 pages2 hours

    Model Sailing Yachts

    By W. J. Daniels

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    About this ebook

    This vintage book contains a comprehensive guide to building, rigging, and cruising model sailing yachts. Written in clear, simple language and full of helpful illustrations and detailed diagrams, this book is ideal for the novice model builder, and will be of considerable utility to those with a practical interest in building model boats. The chapters of this book include: “The Rating of Model Yachts”, “Building a 36 In. Model Yacht by the Carved hull Method”, “Building a Model Rater”, “The Construction of “built-up” or Planked Yachts”, “Spars and Fittings”, “Steering Gears”, “Racing Schooners”, etcetera. Many antiquarian books such as this are increasingly hard to come by and expensive, and it is with this in mind that we are republishing this book now in an affordable, high quality edition. It comes complete with a specially commissioned introduction on model building.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateJan 29, 2013
    ISBN9781447484431
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      Book preview

      Model Sailing Yachts - W. J. Daniels

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      CHAPTER ONE

      Introductory

      MODEL YACHTING is yachting in miniature, but the model yachtsman remains on terra firma while the yachtsman goes afloat. Like yachtsmen, model yachtsmen either cruise or race. To the model sailor, cruising means non-competitive sailing for one’s own amusement. For cruising, models can be of any size or rig to suit their owners’ individual tastes, but racing models have to comply with the rules governing the class, to which they belong, in order to be eligible to compete in organised regattas.

      Unless the embryo owner has a penchant for some particular rig or type, he will be well advised to select a racing model for his first venture in the sport, since the best model yacht designers concentrate on class racing models, and good designs for cruisers are hard to come by. Model racing yachts are designed for ease of handling and efficiency, and are, consequently, a pleasure to sail. A further reason for choosing a racing model is that when the model yachtsman wishes to make a change, he will find it easier to dispose of a class model than some nondescript craft, however good she may be.

      Therefore, for the purposes of this little introductory handbook to the sport, we shall concentrate on the building and handling of racing craft, but of course there is nothing to prevent an owner using a racer for cruising.

      The first step to becoming a model yachtsman is to acquire a model yacht. Now you would not purchase a tennis racquet or cricket bat in a toy shop, but patronise a high-class sports outfitter. Similarly, to buy a real model yacht, you must go to a specialist and be prepared to pay a high price. Unfortunately some model shops, which are no doubt excellent for model railways, sell so-called model yachts that are only slightly better than the toyshop variety, and owners of shops frequently have no real knowledge of model yachts or model yachting, so the novice has to be very careful in choosing his first boat.

      To purchase a high-class model yacht is an expensive matter. The reason of this is obvious when you examine a class model, and consider not only the material, that goes into its construction, but the many hours of patient craftsmanship it represents.

      If you have a model yacht club in your vicinity, it is worth enquiring whether any of the members have second-hand boats to dispose of. If you buy a second-hand boat in this fashion, you should get her rating certificate with the yacht, just as you would the registration book of a second-hand car, or the Kennel Club certificate of a pedigree dog.

      The third (and cheapest, as well as the most interesting) method of acquiring a model yacht is to build her yourself, and it is with the object of assisting the novice to do this that the present book is written.

      It is possible for any reasonably handy person to build a model yacht, provided he is prepared to give time and care to the job, and follows the instructions given. The methods, which are explained in subsequent chapters, are based on experience, and if the instructions given are carefully followed, the result should be a yacht that will be a pleasure to own and sail.

      In the construction of a model yacht, the first step is to design her, and the second to translate the design into an actual boat. The designing of a model yacht is an exactly similar process to designing a full-sized yacht, and requires an intimate knowledge of naval architecture. To acquire this means years of study, and an exposition of how a yacht is designed, is beyond the scope of this handbook. Fortunately, however, for the would-be model yacht builder, good designs are available from the publishers of this volume at quite reasonable prices. Likewise special designs can be obtained from various well-known yacht designers, though these are rather more costly.

      Owing to the fact that there are various different methods of construction, model yacht designers do not as a rule prepare construction plans, but supply the lines only. These give the shape of the finished boat, but once the builder understands how to read a set of lines, this will present no difficulty.

      The designing of a model yacht and her building, are comparable to the composition of a piece of music and performing it. The first step in both cases is to learn to read what is on the papers So in the present handbook we first show you how to interpret the design, and take off the lines. We then teach you how to build and rig the boat, and finally how to sail her when finished.

      Classed Racing Models

      Although model yachts can be of many different rigs, experience has proved that the most practical and efficient is the Bermuda sloop. This is the simplest rig possible as it consists of a triangular (Bermudian or leg-o’-mutton) mainsail and a single headsail (the jib). This rig is shown in Fig. 1.

      Fig.  1.   The Bermuda Sloop Rig.

      Hence, all modern racing models without exception, are rigged this way. So if you are offered a second-hand craft rigged otherwise (e.g., as a gunter sloop with a quadrilateral mainsail), which is alleged to be a class racing yacht, she is obviously an old, outclassed model. Such a boat may sail quite well, and be not at all a bad buy if you are merely intending to use her for cruising and the price is low enough. If you do acquire a boat of this kind, however, you must not expect her to have the same speed and performance as more up-to-date craft.

      Since we have repeatedly referred to racing classes, it may be advisable to explain exactly what is meant by this. Model yachting today is a highly organised sport. The British national authority is the Model Yachting Association (M.Y.A.), and nearly a hundred clubs in the United Kingdom are members of it. Model yachting is also popular abroad, and international races are held in various places from time to time. In this country, the M.Y.A. holds annual open championships for the various recognised national classes. Likewise district championships are held, and inter-club races. In addition every club has its own racing programme.

      The M.Y.A. promulgates a code of racing rules under which all these events take place, and it likewise formulates the rating rules which govern the various classes of yachts that are catered for. Actually, five different classes of model yachts are recognised, ranging from the lordly A-class down to the little 3-footer. Each of these has its own measurement rule. Some of these rating rules are very complicated, particularly those for the A-class and International 6-metres, and as yachts are very carefully measured before being officially rated and registered, the clubs have special apparatus for the purpose.

      When a new model is built to any of these classes, she is measured by the official measurer of one of the clubs which belong to the M.Y.A., and he is responsible for seeing that the model complies in every respect with the rating rule for her class. A measurement certificate is filled up with all particulars and sent to the national Registrar of model yachts. This official then enters particulars in his register and issues a registration number. In due course the class mark and national registration number are put on to the yacht’s mainsail and the stamped certificate issued to the owner. Until this has been done, the yacht is ineligible to compete in an organised regatta. The sail markings should enable one to recognise a registered class model yacht at sight.

      In order to assist the novice to select or build a boat, the approximate sizes and weights of the various classes are listed on page 5. It should, however, be pointed out that these figures are not rating figures but merely a guide as to size, and all models of these dimensions are not necessarily class models.

      Before buying a model or starting to build one, it is a wise precaution to ascertain whether there is a model yacht club sailing on the water which is most convenient to you, and if so, what classes are catered for. It is most disappointing to acquire a boat and find that it is built to a class which the local club does not use. Hence a little enquiry beforehand is advisable.

      For many people the A-class is too large, and a smaller, lighter yacht is preferred. This is particularly so when the boat has to be carried a long way to the water, or taken by public conveyance, or in a small car.

      The International 6-metres is a handy size of yacht and moderate in weight, but is only sailed by a limited number of clubs, the majority of which are situated north of the Border.

      Both of these classes are to complicated measurement rules, and have a comparatively limited following. Hence the authors consider it better in the scope of a small handbook to concentrate on the three classes that are most popular today. It should be added, however, that anyone interested in the A-class or International 6-metres can obtain copies of rating rules from the M.Y.A. Publications Secretary, or through any model yacht club. Designs for these classes are likewise available, and the building instructions given in these pages apply equally to the construction of yachts of these two classes.

      Of the other three classes—10-rater, M-class and 36-in.—the two latter are restricted classes, and as these rules are easier for the novice to understand we will deal with these starting with the 36-in.

      36-in. Restricted Class

      A Restricted Class is a class of yachts whose dimensions do not exceed certain specified limits. These are:—

      Sail area, spars, sail battens and other measurements are unrestricted.

      L.O.A. does not include bowsprit or rudder.

      Weight is weight of the yacht in full racing trim including largest suit of sails, spinnaker, rudder, etc.

      A covering board (or rail), if fitted, shall not exceed 1/8 in. above highest point of deck line.

      Fig.  2.   36-inch Restricted Class model in measuring box.

      The method of measurement is such that the boat shall fit completely into a box of the following inside dimensions, 36 in. by 9 in. by 11 in. The model may be tilted when in the box. (See Fig. 2.) As mentioned above this excludes deck fittings, bowsprit, rudder and covering board.

      Punts and prams (i.e., all boats having forward transoms) are not admitted to the class, and centreboards are prohibited.

      M-Class

      In this restricted class there are fewer hull restrictions but sail area is measured and restricted, and there are some additional conditions. The rule is as follows:—

      L.O.A. 50 in. Sail area, 800 sq. in.

      N.B.—L.O.A. may be 1/4 in. more or less than 50 in.

      The following are prohibited: (a) Movable keels and centreboards; (b) metal fin keels and other keels which do not comply with regulations as to hollow of garboard; (c) lee-boards and bilge-boards; (d) bowsprits and overhanging rudders.

      Hollow of garboard shall not be less than 1 in. radius. This can be checked by using a disc of 2 in. diameter offered to garboard at midships section. (See Fig. 3.)

      Ballast must be fixed and not altered during a race, or series of races. Bumpers are not included in L.O.A. measurement but must not protrude more than 1/2 in.

      There are no limits on load water line (L.W.L.), weight, beam, freeboard or tumble-home.

      Actual sail area is measured as follows:—

      Fig.  3.   Garboard hollow of M-Class.

      Mainsail.  The luff (forward side of sail) is measured from tack (bottom forward corner of sail) to underside of headboard. The diagonal is a line taken from the clew (bottom after corner of sail) to the luff and perpendicular to it.

      The area of the sail is calculated by multiplying the luff by the diagonal and dividing by two.

      Jib.  The luff is measured from tack to underside of headboard, or if there is no headboard to the eye in the head (top corner of sail). The diagonal is measured like the mainsail.

      The area of jib is calculated by multiplying the luff by the diagonal and dividing by two.

      The measured area of sail plan is area of mainsail plus area of jib. This is shown in Fig. 4.

      Headboards are permitted in the mainsail but must not be more than 3/4 in. across. Four battens are permitted in mainsail, dividing the leach (after side of sail) into approximately equal parts, but must not exceed 4 in. in length. Three similar battens are allowed in the jib, limited to 2 in. in length. Any roach (outward bow to side of sail, in particular the after leach of mainsail) obtained by the use of battens must not exceed 2 in.

      Fig.  4.   Sail measurement in M-Class.

      There is no limit on the height of rig in this class but the height of jibstay above deck must not exceed 80 per cent, of height of mainsail headboard above deck.

      Spinnakers may be used and are not measured, but the length of the spinnaker boom

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