Brewing in Milwaukee
By Brenda Magee and Frederick Gettelman
()
About this ebook
Brenda Magee
Brenda Magee is a historian and a member of the Milwaukee County and Franklin Historical Societies. Her passion for research, along with her love for Milwaukee�s history and its people, prompted the development of this book.
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Brewing in Milwaukee - Brenda Magee
(WHS.)
INTRODUCTION
The Milwaukee area went from a trading post to a settlement by 1820. In 1846, the settlements of Kilbourntown, Juneautown, and Walkerspoint joined to form what was to be Milwaukee. During this time, three Welshmen partnered to establish the first brewery, the Milwaukee Brewery, later called the Lake Brewery. Being Welshmen, they brewed what they knew, and that was an ale-style beer. Located on the dusty, dirty south side of town, the brewery did well enough until paying patrons got their first taste of real German lager. In the late 1840s and 1850s, a great number of German immigrants came to this country, many of them headed for Milwaukee.
Whether to escape hardship and political upheaval in one’s homeland or to just start over, Milwaukee promised a bright future to anyone willing to go for the gusto.
Leaving family and friends was understandably a difficult decision but worth the risk. The advent of the steamship made crossing the Atlantic less of an ordeal and cut passage time in half. By the 1860s, there were more German-language speakers and German newspapers than English in Milwaukee. German influence has left its mark on the city, on its great food, restaurants, architecture, love of culture and heritage (every summer, German Fest welcomes thousands of Germans to the lakefront), and strong work ethic, as well as the love of good German-brewed beer. Milwaukee was at the start and heart of the beer industry for well over 100 years.
Familiar names today, such as Miller, Pabst, Schlitz, Blatz, Gettelman, and many others, have made up the local fabric of this industry. Milwaukee was attractive to German brewers because of its source of fresh water, ice for cellars, and barley and hops, all of which were essential for brewing a German lager-style beer. These early brewers were extraordinarily talented businessmen. They were aggressive industrialists who achieved success through hard work and sound business sense coupled with strong family ties. The brewing industry had a definite domino effect; new brewery concepts and innovations necessitated partnerships and assistance of local businesses for supplies and materials, thus fueling the growth of manufacturing in Milwaukee. In the early days, distribution was limited by how far a horse could travel in half a day. The real growth came with the railroad, allowing shipment to distance cities; this put Milwaukee on the map, and Brewed in Milwaukee
became a sign of quality, answering the question of how and why Milwaukee became famous for its brewing.
It is amazing to think that three names all from one city would stand out nationally and internationally as world-leading brewers. Pabst and Schlitz traded the title of largest brewer for a while, and Miller was always just behind. With their need for equipment and services, these three companies were the engines of Milwaukee growth. These needs made many companies national companies in their own right. Milwaukee became a leader in manufacturing, printing, packaging, containers, and malting. The population and employment was staggering, with large number of immigrants coming to Milwaukee for jobs and a new life in America.
There were well in excess of 100 breweries in Milwaukee history, but with many name changes, closings, and poor sales, few remained after Prohibition. The golden age of the beer barons was the 1890s through Prohibition. This period saw the growth in size of breweries and mansions; the creation of beer gardens, corner saloons, and tied houses; and the fastest-ever growth of the beer industry.
Today, Miller is the last surviving brewery from brewing’s golden age; once a division of SABMiller, it merged with Coors as MillerCoors. Right here in Milwaukee, MillerCoors continues the great tradition of brewing quality products. Miller might be the biggest brewery in Milwaukee, but the city is seeing a rebirth of small-scale breweries, and quite a number of them are turning heads. The growth of microbreweries and brewpubs is bringing back that original innovative spirit to brewing in Milwaukee.
From the 1940s to the 1960s, virtually every household had some family connection to the brewing business in one form or another, be it brewing, packaging, distribution, or a secondary business supplying the breweries. This led to great brewery brand loyalty in taverns, restaurants, ballparks, and at home. For many years, Milwaukee was literally a closed market to outside brands. This changed with local strikes and increased radio and television advertising from national breweries. In Milwaukee today, it is still Miller Time,
and the phrase PBR me
is heard in just about every local tavern.
Milwaukee and the beers that made it famous must have their story told and preserved. It is a heritage to be proud of. The brewing industry provided a great quality of life for its employees, including good wages and benefits, and encouraged a camaraderie not seen today. For the past 13 years, I have been involved with a group of dedicated people in the effort to form a Museum of Beer and Brewing located in Milwaukee to preserve this rich history, one my family was involved in for 107 years. My father was the last chairman of the A. Gettelman Brewing Co. until its sale to Miller Brewing Company in 1961. My mother’s grandfather, Philip Altpeter, owned the Altpeter Brewery for a period, then converted it to a malting plant. Both sides of my family had their starts in this business, so I truly do have beer in my blood and honestly believe that this rich heritage should be preserved as a cornerstone of Milwaukee history. After all, virtually every visitor to Milwaukee asks about two things: breweries and motorcycles. I want us to be able to offer that historical perspective to our Milwaukee visitors. I hope that you will enjoy this effort and that it allows you to research and learn more about this great historic Milwaukee industry. This book attempts to visually capture the history and spirit of brewing in Milwaukee from the 1840s to today.
—Frederick Gettelman
One
MILWAUKEE’S
EARLY HISTORY
Early inhabitants of Milwaukee, although not precisely known, were most likely offshoots of several East Coast native tribes forced westward as a result of encroachment by European settlers. The Iroquois, Chippewa, Sauk, Mascouten, and Potawatomi, to