Memories of a Midwestern Farm: Good Food & Inspiration from Around Kitchen Table
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About this ebook
Nancy Hutchens grew up on a southern Indiana farm in the 1950s, when horses still plowed the fields. Soap and butter were homemade, and success was a table laden with a hearty meal. Now she shares this bygone time in Memories of a Midwestern Farm, a celebration of country living sprinkled with irresistible recipes, reminiscences, and bits of timeless folk wisdom. Here are the charming poems and journal entries of Nancy Hutchens' grandmother, Mamaw Tribby; reflections on rural life from Willa Cather, Walt Whitman and others; and family photos and original illustrations that adorn the pages of this beautiful memoir.
And here are more than one hundred classic recipes handed down in the Hutchens farmhouse kitchen. From "Moist and Crunchy Fried Chicken and Gravy" and "Green Beans Country Style" to "Sweet Cherry Dumplings" and "'Get You a Husband' Apple Pie," these mouthwatering favorites bring back the sweet and savory pleasures of country cooking for any occasion and every season.
Memories of a Midwestern Farm is a delightful antidote to modern life, a tribute to the simple gifts that bring farm folks together -- hard work, close ties, and an abundance of good, wholesome food.
Nancy Hutchens
Nancy Hutchens is the author of A Gardens Grace, a Simon & Schuster book.
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Memories of a Midwestern Farm - Nancy Hutchens
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PRAISE FOR
Memories of a Midwestern Farm
Don’t read this book if you’re hungry—it will make you want to get up and start cooking. It’s definitely one of the best on pure country cooking.
—Jack Odle, Progressive Farmer
AND LOOK FOR NANCY HUTCHENS’
A Garden’s Grace
. . .THE BOOK EVERY GREEN THUMB WILL LOVE!
"A charming book, full of nostalgic reminiscences and anecdotes
that will inspire everyone who loves to garden."
—Chattanooga Free Press (TN)
Delightful. . . .It’s what gardening is all about!
—Denver Post
Available in trade paperback from Pocket Books
Memories of a Midwestern Farm
Use of the following materials is gratefully acknowledged;
Selected Quote from Mules and Men by Zora Neale Hurston. Copyright 1935 by Zora Neale Hurston. Copyright renewed 1963 by John C. Hurston and Joel Hurston. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins. Publishers, Inc.
Selected quote from Hot Weather,
in One Man’s Meat by E. B. White. Copyright 1939 by E. B. White. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc.
Quote by Etta Macy from Indiana’s Self-Reliant Uplanders
by James Alexander Thom, National Geographic magazine, Vol. 149, No. 3, March 1976.
The Ballad of Davy Crockett,
collected, adapted and arranged by John A. Lomax and Alan Lomax. Copyright 1934 (Renewed) Ludlow Music, Inc., New York, New York. Used by permission.
Ole Aunt Kate
and Old Jesse,
from Dorothy Scarborough, On the Trail of Negro Folk Songs. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, Copyright 1952 by Harvard University Press; copyright renewed 1953 by Mary McDaniel Parker. Reprinted by permission of the publishers.
Young Man Wouldn’t Hoe Corn,
from A Treasury of American Folklore by B. A. Botkin (editor). Copyright 1944, 1972 by B. A. Botkin. Reprinted by permission of Crown Publishers, Inc.
The Law of the Yukon,
from The Spell of the Yukon by Robert Service. Copyright 1916, used by permission of the Estate of Robert Service.
Hutchens Succeeds on Hills
by Lewis P. East in The Indiana Farmers Guide, Vol. 87, June 27, 1931. Permission granted by Farm Progress Companies.
Photograph of Grandpa Hutchens reprinted by permission of M. Anthony Morgan.
POCKET BOOKS, a division of Simon & Schuster Inc.
1230 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020
www.SimonandSchuster.com
Copyright © 1995 by Nancy Hutchens
Illustrations copyright © 1995 by Richard Lang Chandler
All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce
this book or portions thereof in any form whatsoever.
For information address Pocket Books, 1230 Avenue
of the Americas, New York, NY 10020
Hutchens, Nancy.
Memories of a midwestern farm : good food and inspiration from around the kitchen table / Nancy Hutchens.
p. cm.
ISBN-13:978-0-671-51071-8
eISBN-13: 978-1-439-11816-0
1. Cookery, American—Midwestern style. 2. Farm life—Indiana. I. Title.
TX715.2.M53H88 1995
641.5977—dc20 95-16912
CIP
First Pocket Books hardcover printing November 1995
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
POCKET and colophon are registered trademarks of Simon & Schuster Inc.
Book design by Barbara Cohen Aronica
Printed in the U.S.A.
For Mamaw Tribby and Grandpa Hutchens and all of our grandparents—our most devoted teachers and faithful friends.
When I was just a little girl
you used to care for me.
Were there ever happier times than those,
just sitting on your knee?
How fast those hours flew,
we had so much to say.
I’d ask a million questions
while you told me about your day.
When I grew up and left,
you knew it was time to part.
But, do you know that I still feel
you present in my heart?
The author at the age of four.
Nancy Hutchens grew up on a 700-acre farm in the upland hills of southern Indiana, an area of great natural beauty that was settled by frontiersmen who came up through the Cumberland Gap in the first part of the nineteenth century. On her grandfather Hutchens’ side of the family she is a descendant of Davy Crockett; her mother’s family, the Tribbys, have been in America for eight generations—some in the family say back to the days of the Mayflower. The Tribbys, who settled in Virginia, lived there until 1716 when they went on to Ohio, and then moved farther west to farm in Greene County, Indiana, in 1860.
Nancy’s childhood on the farm in the 1950s was reminiscent of life at the turn of the century. Teams of horses were still used for farmwork. Her family used an outhouse until she was eight years old, and it took several more years for television and the telephone to arrive. Soap and butter were made on the farm, and everyday items like blankets and rugs were handmade.
After completing her degrees at Indiana University and Rice University in Houston (where she earned a Ph.D. in anthropology and psychology), Nancy settled in New York City. Since 1985 she has had her own business, consulting to companies about human resources. Nancy and her husband, Michael Fields, live in Westchester County, New York, but she still considers Indiana home.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Like a lot of people, I’d pick up a book in the bookstore and think, I could do this. Until I was knee-deep in writing this book, I had no idea how many people, working together as a team, it takes to make a book. This book would be incomplete without mention of those I was lucky enough to have working with me.
Janis Vallely, who is much more of a friend than an agent, navigated me through the mysterious world of book publishing. Janis helped to mold this book and guided me in rediscovering the voice of the farm girl buried underneath the citified adult.
Richard Lang Chandler communicated my feelings and memories visually through his drawings, which depict all family farms and bring us back to this vanishing way of life. Richard’s endless stream of creative ideas is seen throughout these pages.
Claire Zion, my editor, completely shared my vision of this book and gave me the freedom to explore ideas. Working with her was a joy.
Daddy—Joseph Wilbur Hutchens—supported me in all stages of writing this memoir about our family life, even though he is one of the few people in America not interested in publicity. He checked the accuracy of my childhood recollections as they pertained to farming.
My nephews, Michael Hutchens and Philip Morgan, poured over microfilm in search of lost articles. My aunts, Esther (Tribby) Borden and Pauline Hutchens Burch; my cousins, Leon Weaver and Carla Tidd; and Daddy, Sue, and Jeff tracked down memorabilia for me.
Sue, Alan, and Jeff and their families continue to do the most important work—keeping these memories alive and passing them on to the next generation.
Michael Fields, my husband, understood how much writing this book meant to me. He accepted, without blinking an eye, weeks of strange meals consisting of nothing but desserts or apple dishes or stews, and many lonely evenings.
The recipes I’ve included here were the ones we used on our farm but they belong to the people of the upland hills of southern Indiana. It has always seemed to me that this region is blessed with an inordinately large number of exceptional cooks who have been preparing these dishes their entire lives. I want to thank these wonderful women who enrich the lives of everyone who knows them. One of these women was my mother, Veva (Tribby) Hutchens.
Mother’s presence was with me throughout writing this book. Through teaching me how to cook she taught me about life.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
The Simple Pleasures of Life on the Farm
Through the Farmhouse Door
A Word About Farm Cooking
SPRING
The Glory of the Early Garden
A Spring Meal to Feed the Hungry Farmer
How Grandpa Started the Farm
Jeff’s Special Backwoodsman’s Breakfast
Strawberries Three Meals a Day
Leftovers to Treasure
SUMMER
Haying in the Fields, Canning in the Kitchen
Mamaw Tribby’s Journal
A Hay Hands’ Feast
Dandelion Dreams
Putting It Away for Winter
Chicken for Sunday Dinner
Family Reunion Picnic
Homemade Ice Cream Makes a Summer Afternoon
What’s Summer Without Corn?
AUTUMN
Making Cider and Filling Silos
Apple Pickin’ Time
Sweet Potato Pie
Feeding the Silo Fillers
Plain Country Cookin’
WINTER
Keeping Warm with Stews and Soups
Winter Breakfast on the Farm
Washday Stews
Christmas on the Farm
Makin’ Fudge ’n Keepin’ Busy
Soups to Take the Chill off Winter Nights
Mother’s Sugar Cookies
Leaving the Farm
INDEX
INTRODUCTION
The Simple Pleasures of Life on the Farm
’Tis the gift to be simple,
’Tis the gift to be free,
’Tis the gift to come down
Where we ought to be.
And when we find ourselves
in the place just right,
’Twill be in the valley of
love and delight.
—Simple Gifts, Shaker song, 1848
THROUGH THE FARMHOUSE DOOR
Let’s sit in the old-fashioned parlor again
And let me take hold of your hand.
The light will be low—and I’ll whisper the words
That bring dreams of days spent on the land.
A branch, a farmhouse with winding rock paths—
Let’s pause for a glance through its door.
A family around an old wooden table,
And Mother fills our plates with s’more.
—Mamaw Tribby (1936)
I grew up in the fifties in Little Cincinnati, Indiana. Little Cincinnati was a village in the Indiana upland hills with a fire tower, ten houses, two churches, a one-room schoolhouse, and our family farm. Everyone thought we were rich because we had land. I thought we were poor because my dad never got a regular paycheck. The fire tower was the closest I ever came to seeing a skyscraper until I was about twelve. It was built on land that my grandpa, Harlan Crockett Hutchens, had leased to the state for a dollar for one hundred years. Grandpa Hutchens was a smart and cantankerous farmer who never went inside a church building except to go to funerals. Working in the fields every day, surrounded by the power and beauty of Mother Nature, was enough for him.
As a little girl, I could look down from the fire tower to see field after field of land—wheat, corn, or soybeans in the summer, dried stalks waiting to be chopped up into silage for cattle feed in the fall, and the silent bare earth in the winter. At the base of the tower were Daddy and Grandpa’s enormous vegetable gardens—each over a quarter of an acre. The rows of tasseled corn at the very back were followed by stakes of tomato plants and pole
beans, and then, the vines—the low-growing strawberries, cucumbers, and potatoes—in the front.
Gardening was serious business. Almost all of the food we ate throughout the year came