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Hidden Tiger Raging Mountain: Over the Hill in Nepal
Hidden Tiger Raging Mountain: Over the Hill in Nepal
Hidden Tiger Raging Mountain: Over the Hill in Nepal
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Hidden Tiger Raging Mountain: Over the Hill in Nepal

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After all the excitements of her mid-life Gap Year, Jo Carroll couldn't quite reconcile herself to her gentle corner of Wiltshire with her garden and strolls across the Downs.

It seemed such a good idea to return to Nepal. She knew her way around there now. She was ready for adventures, but surely there'd be no terrors in Kathmandu this time?

She should, she knows, be careful what she wishes for. She managed to extricate herself from a scam in Pokhara with nothing more than her pride damaged. But no one warned her about cyclones in the mountains. And then there was the tiger ...

LanguageEnglish
PublisherJo Carroll
Release dateSep 18, 2012
ISBN9781301357291
Hidden Tiger Raging Mountain: Over the Hill in Nepal
Author

Jo Carroll

JO CARROLL decided that thirty years working with traumatised children is long enough. Besides, if she left it much longer she would be too creaky to fulfil her adolescent dream of travelling round the world. So, armed with little more than general ignorance, a diary, and insatiable curiosity, off she went. A grown-up gap year. Except she didn’t always feel like a grown-up.

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    Book preview

    Hidden Tiger Raging Mountain - Jo Carroll

    HIDDEN TIGER RAGING MOUNTAIN

    OVER THE HILL IN NEPAL

    By JO CARROLL

    Smashwords edition, copyright 2012, Jo Carroll

    All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form other than that in which it was purchased without the written permission of the author.

    Cover design by Mark Smart

    Join me on my website: http://www.jocarroll.co.uk

    ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

    You will see how many people kept me safe on this journey. I’ve have changed almost all of their names, because it has been impossible to contact them and ask permission to write about them in this way. They know who they really are, and I hope they know how grateful I am to them.

    Without Tika I’m not sure I’d be home safely to tell the tale. Thanks, too, to Shobha, who welcomed me like a sister. One day I hope I can do the same for her.

    Meanwhile, Pauline Lively and Inga-Britta Currie helped to keep the show on the road in Wiltshire, and made sure I had a home to come back to.

    And then there are those who have stood by while I tried to tame my chaotic diaries and reframe them into a coherent narrative. Thanks to Gwen Stuart and Anna Smart for their support and helpful comments as I drafted this, and to Elaine Connolly for her copy edit. Any residual mistakes are mine.

    Thanks to Mark Smart for his original cover.

    Finally, thanks to my patient daughters, who carry on behaving like grown-ups whatever I do. They applaud my leaving and my coming home. My story would be bleak without them.

    CHAPTER ONE

    .

    I’M OFF AGAIN

    1.

    I don’t make a habit of leaving Wiltshire in March. After the gloom of winter longer days tempt me into the garden, into the forest to search for fresh green leaves on the beech trees, across the Downs to laugh at the lambs. And this is a particularly delightful March, the sun high in the sky and warm enough to see winter coats left at home. My magnolia tree is heavy with buds; I shall miss its blossoming.

    I’ve ached to travel all winter, but commitments have kept me at home till now. I have been cooped up long enough. The need to pack my rucksack and be on my way again is overwhelming. I no longer feel a need to justify my wanderlust. It is simply part of me.

    My daughters wave me off. I have promised to travel safely and they almost believe me. I have four grandchildren now – even the tug of infant giggles and games of hide-and-seek are not enough to keep me at home. Though I’ll not be gone for long this time – just one month.

    Kathmandu. The name alone sounds exotic – it ranks with Samarkand, Xi’an, Marrakesh – great trading cities. A focus for the hippy trails of the late 1960s. I’ve no flowers in my hair (to be honest, just streaks of grey these days) but I can still sit on temple steps and pretend to be eighteen.

    This is my third visit to Nepal, so I understand this city’s ways now – quite a contrast to my last arrival, when, after three months in Australia and New Zealand I almost crept back into the airport rather than face the mayhem outside. It was impossible, I thought, for a lone woman to tackle this chaos. But Tika, my guide, rescued me, lured me into the streets, kept me safe while I found my travelling feet. After five weeks together we were friends. Now I know what I’m doing, and do not need him – but he knows I’m coming and has organised a welcome for me.

    This time the International Airport does not alarm me. Its bricks are as red and forbidding as ever. Its air as stale. The smell of weary passengers. I queue to change money. Queue to pay for my visa. Queue to collect my visa. Queue to collect my luggage, politely (I hope) rejecting an offer of help from a small man who reaches for my rucksack as soon as I identify it. I have packed lightly and can lug it myself without going pink and puffing, and I march towards the exit with confidence. I even smirk when I recall the stomach-churning that beset me last time I arrived here.

    I stride through the exit doors and into the muted sunshine of late afternoon. Walls too starkly bright to look at during the middle of the day are washed with early evening orange. Dust hangs in the still air. My stomach flutters with excitement. I’ve a spring in my step. (Well, actually, I haven’t. I can’t spring with a rucksack on my back. But I would if I could.)

    Airport meeting arrangements have changed. On my last visit I emerged into a phalanx of touts each insisting he would take me to the best hotel, in the best taxi. Now they are restrained beyond stern railings. I josh with them as I amble along, before finding the card with my name on it at the end of the line. I am then whisked to a rickety minibus, driven from the sanctuary of the airport car park and into the streets of Kathmandu.

    They have not changed. Markets line the streets: men with heaps of clothes, women selling grapes and oranges. There may be fewer cows; but still the packs of feral dogs. Small boys, with ragged shorts and no shoes, thread through the crowds.

    We weave through armies of motorbikes. Drivers wear helmets now, but passengers (as many as three) need no protective headgear. Women sit sideways, glorious saris flapping by the back wheel. Small children are tucked between their parents. My driver swerves to the right, down a rutted track by the river, which is low and pongy at this time of year.

    ‘A one-way street,’ he explains, and is then unfazed to meet a car coming the other way, pushing us near the edge of the road and perching above the stinking river. This is the route into Thamel: the tourist corner of Kathmandu, with its narrow streets and trinket shops, passageways leading to hotels and the sanctuary of air-conditioned restaurants.

    We swing into the Sacred Valley Hotel, and a sturdy man with close-set eyes comes out to meet me.

    ‘Tika has told us you are coming,’ he says.

    ‘Tika is my friend,’ I reply. ‘We have been travelling together.’

    ‘Tika is my special friend,’ he insists. ‘We were at school together.’ This clearly trumps travelling. ‘He has asked us to give you the best room.’

    He leads me to the family room. I have no idea why I might need four beds and space to play, but I thank him profusely.

    He’s gone. And I sink onto one of the beds. I have been travelling for seventeen hours and suddenly I disconnect. My body feels suspended in time and I need to tell it that it is evening. To take it out, to feed it, give it a beer, and then send it to bed. The effort of getting here has caught up with me.

    2.

    I am, of course, woolly in the morning. Yesterday’s euphoria is forgotten as I sit on the rooftop with my breakfast and try to gather myself for the day. Electricity hisses on the wires. Somewhere a dog barks. The air seems misty, but I expect it coagulates into smog by mid-afternoon. I find refuge in coffee.

    All I have to do today is catch a flight to Pokhara. It is not difficult. Seven men have gathered in reception to say goodbye to me as I leave. I have no idea why they are there, but their good wishes are comforting and I promise to return. Then it’s time to climb back into the minibus and be whisked (this is Saturday, Nepal’s rest day, the streets are quieter) to the Domestic Airport.

    It is a dingy building; the air is tired but fans whirr usefully and I wait in a corner where I get the full blast of cooling wafts. Heavy-shouldered men yawn. Women in scarlet saris slump on benches. A young man in fake leather trousers, winkle-pickers and slicked-back hair carries a baby girl, about four months old, and

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