Enchanted Summer: A Romantic Guide to Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha's Vineyard

book.

Introduction

The breakers looked like droves of a thousand

wild horses of Neptune, rushing to the shore,

with their white manes streaming far behind;

and when, at length the sun shone for a moment,

their manes were rainbow tinted.

~ Henry David Thoreau, Cape Cod, 1817-1862

Looking for an antidote for the doldrums? Take a romantic summer vacation on Cape Cod or the Islands of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Imagine windswept beaches, sailboats and ferries, Victorian houses, and colorful gardens.

Say the names like a mantra: Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, Cape Cod. Already you are there.

Just a one-hour drive from Boston, Cape Cod offers the sojourner the vacation of a lifetime. The remote beauty of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket Islands can be reached by plane or ferry.

For the romantic, this book will give you all the requisite information for planning a perfect vacation. Learn more about the hotels, bed and breakfasts and restaurants in the area. We'll give you plenty of suggestions for spending your days, whether you choose to go shopping or want to explore the nearby beaches and forests. And there's nightlife too. You'll have a choice of concerts, plays and nighttime sailing excursions.

So, take a minute and dream.

A Brief History

It was the Wampanoag Indians who first called Cape Cod and the Islands home. They fished the sea, farmed the land, and hunted the forests. The Wampanoags were a peaceful people, living harmoniously among one another. The arrival of European explorers occurred in the 1600s. There are several reports of earlier sojourners, but Bartholomew Gosnold is credited for being the first European to lay claim to Cape Cod. Arriving in 1602, Gosnold named the area after the plentiful cod he and his ship crew found in the waters.

Eighteen years later, passengers aboard the Mayflower spent a month on the Cape, near Provincetown, before resettling in nearby Plymouth. Once the Pilgrims became adjusted to their life in Plymouth, they began to spread out southward, with several different groups moving to the Cape. The towns of Sandwich, Barnstable, Yarmouth and Eastham were the first areas to be settled. The Indian and white settlers lived side by side, in peaceful co-existence during those early years.

The Cape and Islands were horribly exposed to English attack during the Revolutionary War. There was little that the Cape Codders and Islanders could do to keep away the British forces. Yet each town has recorded separate acts of heroism, from the three Vineyard girls who blew up a flagpole rather than allow the British to beat them to the task, to the Cape Cod and Island men who lost their lives while fighting for freedom in America.

They called it the Golden Age of Whaling, and it ran from the  late 1700s to the mid-1900s. While the Cape and Island ports offered little protection during a war, the same ports offered wonderful access to the sea. Throughout the 1800s, sea captains traveled the oceans in search of the almighty whale.

The whalers called the Cape and Island their home, but for the most part they lived upon the great ships, often for years at a time. Their wives and children waited for them at home, never knowing when or if they would see their loved ones again. But there were riches to find out at sea, and the captains would arrive home with pockets full of money. They built lavish homes with money they made from whaling, each home grander than its neighbor.

The Golden Age of Whaling came to its eventual conclusion when other sources of fuel became more readily accessible. The Cape and Islands did not see another Golden era until the area was discovered by vacationers, seeking solace from their city lives.

Tourism continues to be a primary business in the area. With it have come some of the negative side-effects found along much of America's popular East Coast. Fortunately, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket recognized early on the need for restrictive building codes and laws in order to protect the area from overdevelopment. The Cape followed suit, and in 1961 the Cape Cod National Seashore was established to protect the eastern shore line. In 1990, the Cape Commission was organized to overlook further development of the area.

But parts of the Cape have been spoiled. Nowadays, it takes longer to find the pristine beauty of the Cape than it used to, but it is still there. This guide will give you many tips on out-of-the-way romantic beaches, coves, forests and preserves. It will give you intimate accounts of the many wonderful lodging opportunities available, from reconstructed farmhouses to renovated stately sea captain homes and more. All you'll need to bring is this book and your heart.

The Land & Sea

The Cape Cod peninsula is situated about 50 miles southeast of Boston. Entry to the Cape is via the Sagamore and Bourne bridges. Take note of the majestic span of the bridges with the Cape Canal below. The 17.4-mile Cape Cod Canal is 480 feet wide and is the world's widest sea-level canal.

As you travel over the bridge, you have officially arrived on the Cape. The Upper Cape is comprised of Falmouth, Woods Hole, Bourne, Mashpee, and Sandwich. This region of the Cape is relatively unspoiled. It faces Buzzards Bay to the west, and the Vineyard Sound to the south. The Mid-Cape towns of Barnstable, Hyannis, Yarmouth, and Dennis are more heavily populated. Hyannis is the largest town in the area.

As you go farther east, you will reach the Outer Cape, comprised of Brewster, Harwich, Chatham, Wellfleet, Orleans, and Truro. At the very tip of the Cape is Provincetown, often referred to as the Outer Cape. The southern shore of the Cape (from Woods Hole to Chatham) faces the Vineyard and Nantucket sounds. Warmed by the Gulf Stream, the Sound has mild surf and warmer waters. The eastern shores of the Cape face the Atlantic Ocean. While the beaches along the Atlantic are wide and sandy, the waters are generally cooler there, and the surf more vigorous.

An Indian Legend

An Indian legend told repeatedly in history books about Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard Island talks of an Indian God and legendary whaleman, Moshup. Lost at sea, he smoked a pipe as he contemplated his situation. The ashes from his pipe became the Islands; the smoke became the fog.

In actuality, the Islands and the Cape were formed by a retreating glacier in the last Ice Age. The region offers a natural habitat for many birds and sea creatures, from seabirds to waterfowl and from whales to starfish and sea urchins. In the Cape's forests you will find pine trees, marshes, cranberry bogs and a variety of other plants and flowers indigenous to the area. The coastal terrain varies from the noble Gay Head Cliffs to the Atlantic's windswept sand dunes. The shore is ever-changing in all of its glory.

Climate

The Cape and Islands have a relatively mild coastal climate. A general rule of thumb is that the region will be about 10° cooler than Boston throughout the summer. In the winter, while the winds may rage and the land can be covered by snow, the coastal air keeps the area warmer than inland.

In winter months, expect the temperature to drop into the mid-20s; it usually gets no higher than the mid-40s. During spring, sunny, crisp days are the norm, with highs in the mid-50s and lows in the mid-40s. Average summer temperatures are a comfortable 60-70°. Fall sees warm days of anywhere from 40-60°, while cooler days can drop into the mid-20s.

Now that you have reviewed the year's temperatures, forget any standards which have been written here. The climate is changeable on the Cape and its islands. A nice day may suddenly bring a storm. A torrential rain may clear to bright skies. Bring a bathing suit and a rain jacket in the summer (you'll need both).

Government & Economy

Several industries thrive on the Cape and the Islands. The tourist industry has long been associated with the area, from the hotels and restaurants to the car, bicycle and boat rentals, clothing and antique shops and more. Tourism provides jobs for many locals, fuels the economy and guarantees visitors a happy holiday.

There are plenty of lobsters, scallops, freshwater and saltwater fish still in the waters off the Cape and Islands, and fishing continues to be a thriving industry. At any of the local ports you will find fishermen coming in and out of the harbors, their nets full of the sea's treasures.

While the amount of agricultural land in the area has diminished, there are still many working farms. And there is something quite wonderful about passing by them. Horses, sheep and cows craze the pastures and the fertile fields yield corn, tomatoes and other vegetables. Roadside stands sell fresh fruits, vegetables and flowers. You have traveled back in time.

Many professionals with families have chosen to move to the Cape and the Islands to raise their children in the safe environment the region offers. Some choose to commute daily to Boston, others have had the good fortune to find work where they live.

The Cape and the Islands have long been a haven for writers, artists and other creative sorts. Henry David Thoreau wrote Cape Cod over a hundred years ago. The book chronicles his trip through the Lower Cape. Martha's Vineyard Island is the home of many celebrities: Mike Wallace, Art Buchwald, Carly Simon, James Taylor, and Ted Danson, to name a few.

Choosing to be part of the local community, many of the celebrities have taken part in the local fundraising events, with proceeds going toward local charities and institutions. Nantucket has recently begun an Annual Film Festival and Provincetown continues to be a recognized artist community.

People & Culture

Perhaps the most pronounced personality trait among the people who live here is the hearty individualism that seems to be part and parcel of every resident. Another quality indigenous to the area is a sense of cooperation and the acceptance of others, regardless of differences. It's a place where faces are familiar and everyone knows your name.

The Wampanoag Tribe were the first inhabitants of the area, and although their numbers have diminished, their Native American influence is part of the local culture. People who have lived on the Cape and Islands for centuries will proudly tell you how many generations their people have called the area home. There are strong Portuguese and Cape Verde communities throughout Southwestern Massachusetts. African-Americans found Oak Bluffs to be the perfect summer resort and have vacationed there since the late 1900s. A strong gay community in Provincetown has thrived over the years.

There's a definite distinction between native-born people and those born elsewhere: You're ahead of the game and given a higher social status if you were born here. Even if you moved here in your first year of life, you are not considered a native by those who were born here. But not to worry, you will be accepted over a period of time. Ultimately, the people of the Cape and Islands are a hearty bunch of individuals who will stop and say hello, help you when you need assistance, and will always express their loyalty to their home.

Price Chart

For Inns & Hotels

$$$$     $200+ per night

$$$       $100-$200 per night

$$         less than $100 per night

For Restaurants

$$$$     $30+ per person

$$$       $20-$30 per person

$$         $10-$20 per person

$          below $10 per person

Martha's Vineyard Island

Only seven miles separate Martha's Vineyard from the mainland, yet in many ways the Island seems worlds apart from the frenetic tempo of modern life. The Island attracts the rich and famous, but it also offers all travelers a chance to vacation in isolated beauty.

It's an island of forests, rolling hills, sand and water. During the day, the sun glistens on the Atlantic Ocean, and at night the moon blazes a path over the water. Seagrass sways in the breeze, waves lap the sand, and seaswept driftwood haphazardly decorates the beach. Children swim in the water or search for sea glass. Sailboats drift out toward the horizon.

Even away from the beach, you're never far from water. The many ponds sparkle in the sunlight. The Island's forests and farm lands are stunning. Watch the cows graze in the field, the osprey and geese alighting in their nests.

Six separate towns comprise the Martha's Vineyard Island, each with its own personality and flavor. The three Down-Island towns are Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, and Vineyard Haven. Up-Island towns include West Tisbury, Chilmark, Menemsha, and Gay Head.

The Down Island towns offer a variety of delights. Edgartown, perhaps the most elegant of them all, is defined by brick sidewalks, narrow streets, stately Colonial and Federal houses, and carefully maintained gardens . The downtown area offers an array of boutiques, gift stores, eateries, and specialty shops.

Travel to Oak Bluffs for its fun-loving atmosphere. Be sure to take a ride on the Flying Horses, one of the nation's oldest carousels. The Methodist Camp Grounds, just steps away from the downtown area, is the crowning jewel of Oak Bluffs. You'll enter a fairytale land of tiny gingerbread houses painted all colors of the rainbow.

Vineyard Haven is the Island's commercial center. A stroll down Main Street brings you to first-rate boutiques and antique shops, as well as an array of restaurants, pizza establishments and ice cream shops. Spectacular vistas of land and sea will take your breath away as you travel up-island. If you're looking for the flavor of an old New England village, you'll want to visit the towns of West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Gay Head.

Many, many people travel from all parts of the world to the Island. The Vineyard has a magical call, and if you hear it, you will return again and again.

History

The history of the Island is colorful and varied. The first inhabitants were members of the Wampanoag Indian tribe, whose economy was based on farming and fishing. The earliest written report of the Vineyard was made in 1602 by the Reverend John Breretorn and Gabriel Archer, who sailed aboard Captain Bartholomew Gosnold's ship.

In 1641, Thomas Mayhew of Watertown, Massachusetts purchased the Vineyard, Nantucket and the Elizabeth Islands for £40 from two English noblemen who held Royal land grants to the area. Mayhew's son, Thomas Mayhew, Jr., arrived with a group a year later and settled in the Edgartown area, initially named Great Harbor. In 1671, the town was renamed Edgartown in honor of the infant son of the Duke of York.

The White settlers and Indians co-existed peacefully during the Colonial period. However, as the settlers began to build Edgartown, the Indians eventually moved out to Chappaquiddick and Gay Head.

During the Revolutionary War, English troops attacked the Vineyard. On September 10, 1778, 82 ships and 10,000 British soldiers raided the Island, primarily stealing livestock and burning many ships in the harbor. The Islanders knew they were outnumbered and did not fight back, but nonetheless they were angered by the attack.

Edgartown and Vineyard Haven became principal ports by the turn of the 19th century. Whaling was Edgartown's chief industry in the early 1820s. Island men (and a handful of women) traveled the seas of the world in pursuit of the almighty whale. Many of the stately captain's homes were built during that time.

The Whaling Era (from the late 1800s to the mid-1900s, came to an end during the Civil War when many of the Island's ships were captured by the Confederate navy. As newer fuel products were introduced the whaling industry declined. The Vineyard began attracting summer visitors during the late 19th century. The Island's first summer resort was established in the Oak Bluffs Methodist Camp Grounds. At first, the campground was used for religious revivals, with visitors staying in makeshift tents. As it gained in popularity, the colorful cottages were built and the beginning of the tourist industry was born.

The beauty of the Island, its peacefulness and unique charm, continues to beckon travelers to its shores over a century later.

Edgartown

Traveling to Edgartown is like time travel. You'll think you are living again in the early 19th century. Gas lamps illuminate the downtown streets. Stately Federal-style sea captains' homes grace the neighborhoods. Carefully tended gardens create splashes of color. Cinematic views of Nantucket Sound and Chappaquiddick Island are around each corner.

The people of Edgartown are proud of their community and have made every effort to preserve its history. Many of the buildings are registered with the Martha's Vineyard Preservation Trust. Most of the inns and hotels have colorful histories, and have been fully restored to their original splendor.

Nearby beaches and forest preserves offer romantic sweeping views and tranquil resting places. As the day ends, enjoy a romantic dinner at any of the picturesque restaurants in town. Go to a movie or concert, or sit at the Memorial Wharf and watch the sunset.

Romantic Inns & Hotels

The Harborview Inn

Overlooking Edgartown Harbor, the Harborview Inn is one of the oldest hotels in the region. Built in 1891, the hotel has been carefully restored to its original splendor. You won't find a better view anywhere on the Island than from one of the waterfront suites and guest rooms. All waterfront rooms feature queen- or king-size beds. A newer addition in the rear offers guest rooms, suites and