Practical Boat Owner

South African adventure

Over the last decade my husband, John Daubeny, and I have been cruising through the Pacific, Southeast Asia and the Indian Ocean on board our 50ft cutterrigged sloop, Atea, choosing to explore the world by boat with our two children, Braca (9) and Ayla (7).

Having just spent three years in the Indian Ocean, it was time for us to move on to new cruising grounds and we set our sights on the Atlantic by way of South Africa. Given the 40,000 miles we’ve clocked already, you’d think the 1,500 we had in front of us would be another casual voyage, made easier as land would be visible all the way. We’d be watching the baobab trees of Tanzania, the pistachio plantations of Mozambique and the thorn bushes of South Africa slip past just five miles to starboard. With no wide open stretches of water to cross, we were in for a leisurely coastal jaunt with plenty of stops en-route. Easy, right?

Wrong. We’d be travelling along the Wild Coast to round the Cape of Storms to reach the Skeleton Coast. These names given by ancient mariners reflected the hazards ahead of us. Africa’s south coast has a high occurrence of weather anomalies and coastal hazards. With storms that build quickly and fog that rolls in – blinding the coast from view – hidden shoals and reefs become death-traps for unsuspecting vessels.

The South African coastline is notorious for its long list of maritime disasters. There’s the Graveyard of Ships where more than 2,500 vessels have been successfully through this aquatic catacomb, we needed to know what was hammering the nails into those old timber coffins.

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