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SALT OF THE EARTH

“Let’s just roll the dice, lock it in and do it,” is how Steve James describes the decision to make Voyager Estate organic. One of Margaret River’s most venerable producers, it’s all part of a transformation stretching from the estate to the cellar door and restaurant. As we tour the 400-hectare property, James, the estate’s manager of viticulture and wine making, explains that some vineyards are fully certified, others in transition, but all are farmed to organic practices. Braking at a block of cabernet sauvignon, a cornerstone varietal for

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