Robb Report

Meat and Greet

The beef did not arrive alone. My introductory shipment from First Light Steak Club was preceded by a cavalcade of gear and gadgets, from a heavy-duty cast-iron griddle to an infrared laser thermometer. Along with an app filled with instructional videos, I had everything I needed to cook the grass-fed New Zealand Wagyu to the club’s exact—and proprietary—specifications.

Such wonkish devotion to ingredients and preparation is a hallmark of First Light co-owner Jerry Greenberg, who experience that had become a local legend, in part for his willingness to throw even celebrities out of his restaurant if they requested too many modifications or ate too slowly.

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