Wine Enthusiast Magazine

A TALE OF TWO PORTS

Port producers have long memories and good records. That’s why they can say with confidence that the last time there were generally declared Vintage Ports in consecutive years was 1872 and 1873. Sixteen producers declared both years.

That is, until 2016 and 2017, when 63 and 71 Vintage Ports were declared, respectively. That’s a big gap. For two successive Vintage Ports to be declared for the first time in 144 years is spectacular.

Quality and longevity are the two criteria for a vintage declaration, according to David Guimaraens, head winemaker at The Fladgate Partnership, which produces Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft Ports.

“Vintage 2016 had extreme elegance and finesse, while in 2017, you get the density and dimension,” he says.

Charles Symington is head winemaker at his family’s Symington Family Estates, which includes W. & J. Graham’s, Dow’s, Warre’s, Cockburn’s and Quinta do Vesúvio among its brands and properties. He says producers “experienced two equally

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