Cook's Illustrated

Next-Level Yellow Sheet Cake

Yellow sheet cake is a darling of American desserts: It’s classic, universally liked, and just right for serving by the square. And yet it never seems to realize its full potential. The crumb is usually OK—moist and relatively coarse—but there’s no reason that a sheet cake can’t have a truly special texture. I’m talking about an extraordinarily fine, uniform crumb, the kind so tender that it practically dissolves on the palate. I wanted to combine this plush texture with fresh, buttery flavor. And for a cake this good, only a rich, creamy chocolate frosting would do.

Formula One

The unique crumb I’m referring to shows up in what is known as a “high-ratio” cake. Most cake formulas are low ratio, meaning they have slightly less sugar by weight than flour, but some are high ratio, meaning—you guessed it—they have more sugar by weight than flour. And that’s key because sugar doesn’t just sweeten a cake; it also adds moisture

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