The new Exceptionnels
The 14 cru bourgeois exceptionnel producers all submitted their 2016 vintage for assessment as part of the blind tastings to qualify for the new 2020 ranking. Jane Anson revisited the wines at home in Bordeaux, and here provides up-to-date notes and scores, along with the story behind each producer
Château d’Agassac
HAUT-MEDOC
Agassac has long stood out for its beautiful 13th-century château – a listed historical monument with turrets, moat and bridge. Owned by insurance company Groupama since 1997, recent years have seen an increasing focus not just on imaginative wine tourism experiences but on getting seriously to grips with the potential of the wine – replanting up to 45% of the 45ha vineyard and redoing the cellars and technical spaces. Technical director Guilain Latournerie, working alongside managing director Jean-Luc Zell, has carefully split the vineyard into evermore precise plots, and bottled accordingly – so you have not only Agassac and Château Pomiès-Agassac split according to terroir, but further subdivided with a second wine L’Esprit d’Agassac, ‘quirky’ Merlot-based L’Agassant, and limited-edition Précision d’Agassac (only made in the best vintages and only sold at the cellar door, which is extremely unusual in Bordeaux). The vines right now are planted to 50% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, with the intention to further increase Cabernet Sauvignon (the main wine already has up to 80% of the grape in some years as they look to ensure its Médoc typicity). Another nice touch: all wooden cases for the wine come from certified-sustainable forests. Stéphane Derenoncourt consults.
Château d’Agassac, Haut-Médoc CB 2016 89
£11.42 (ib)-£15 Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Montrachet
Subdued on the nose at first, unrolls to show fresh acidities balanced by gentle tannins, buttressing soft red cherry and raspberry fruits. Unfussy and open character, with gentle white pepper spice. Drink 2020-2030 Alcohol 13%
Château Arnauld
HAUT-MEDOC
This for me is one of the leading Exceptionnels in the new listing, producing great wines with real consistency. It is helped by its location, just on the other side of the line that splits the Margaux appellation
