Cook's Country

Brighter, Fresher Succotash

SUCCOTASH, A SAVORY medley of sweet corn, beans, and zucchini or summer squash, should taste clean and fresh. But all too often it is underseasoned, overloaded with dairy, or muddy—not good. When seasonal produce is at its best, it should shine.

To begin my testing, I made five recipes for succotash that either omitted or restrained the cream and butter. Most

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