briefs

BLACK SUMMER TOLL

AUSTRALIAN vintage 2020 has been one of the most challenging in recent memory. Bush fires across four states and the ACT have taken their toll with many producers choosing not to make wine after concerns about the effect of smoke taint on grapes. High profile producer, Clonakilla at Murrumbateman in the ACT was among the first to make an announcement on February 18. The company board, it said, had made the “painful decision” not to make wines from “any vineyard in New South Wales this year.”

“Analysis of ripening grapes from our estate vineyard in Murrumbateman, and the vineyards of our longstanding grape suppliers in the Hilltops region around the town of Young, has revealed unacceptably high levels of smoke taint across all varieties and all vineyard sites,” stated the company release.”

Neighbouring Canberra producers, including Shaw Wines and Ravensworth also did not make wine. Bryan Martin, Ravensworth’s owner/winemaker, elected to salvage the fruit and make a fruit beer. Producers in Victoria’s North-East were also among those affected, including Mandy Jones at Jones Winery, Rutherglen.

“It is with much sadness,” she revealed in a March 3 press release, “that we announce that there will be no 2020 Jones Winery & Vineyard wines made from our historic estate vineyards.

“The impact of the intense smoke haze we experienced over many days in January from fires more than 60km away, has been significant. Unfortunately, even very immature grapes can absorb chemical compounds from heavy smoke haze.”

FLAWED FEAR MONGERING

“ALCOHOL can cause lifelong harm to your baby” could be the warning attached to wine under new mandatory labelling requirements. The wording, approved by Food Standards Australia New Zealand (FSANZ), has been called flawed, costly and ineffective by Australian Grape & Wine (AGW).

“This pregnancy warning label is a classic example of bureaucratic over-reach and is not a good example of science-based decision making,” said AGW chief executive, Tony Battaglene.

The new label will also include the words “health warning” in red, bold capital letters.

Public health advocates are in favour of the new warning and have called it a significant step.

“This hugely significant step,” said Trish Hepworth, director of policy and research at the Foundation for Alcohol Research and Education, “will help protect future generations of Australians. Alcohol consumption during pregnancy is a serious issue.”

The wine and alcoholic beverages industries have called on state food ministers to reject the labelling initiative and instead make the current voluntary Drink Wise label mandatory.

FALL OUT FROM THE FIRES

THE 2019-20 summer bushfires may be gone but it will take years for Australian wine producers – decades in some cases – to make the return to financial security and 2019 production levels. Counting the cost makes for depressing reading.

According to Wine Australia, about 1% or 1500 hectares of vines were affected. The worst hit region was the Adelaide Hills which lost as much